Makalu

I've got what appears to be a slight leak on my front air tank pop valve. I can't confirm the replacement for the valve because I don't have a 2008 Navigator air system drawing. I referenced the 2006 one in the downloads sections and am providing a screenshot of that file. Can anyone confirm exactly what I need to purchase to replace it for my 2008 (if it's different).

Cheers.

1 hour ago, Leigh R said:

Thanks for all the information, I have a 2009 Freightliner XC chassis with a Cummins under a Tiffin Phaeton with the same throttle pedal assembly and “obsolete “ sensor  number 6543212. I spent several days talking to Cummins, Freightliner in SC, and Tiffin with no help.

Read this thread and decided to try it. I couldn’t find any on eBay that were in the $150 range so I just ordered complete pedal directly from Polaris $345 including shipping. Polaris OEM part number is 4013903. Ordered it on Tuesday afternoon arrived Thursday afternoon.  I swapped just the sensor with the plug pointed down as it comes from Polaris. I think the pedal assembly could be mounted in existing remote pedal bracket with very little work. Even think there are holes drilled in existing bracket to mount Polaris assembly. Sensor swap took five minutes and bus was back on the road 

Thanks again!!!!!!

Awesome! So glad to hear it's worked out for someone else. Mine continues to work since I replaced it with the Polaris part. Done probably 2500 miles now.

What would you all recommend for a replacement pump for my coach? My OEM one failed and am looking for something I can mount on the existing plate above the front axle on my 08 Navigator. A relatively quiet unit would be nice.

14 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Ok, I think I figured it out.  Look at the circuit board schematic.  On that board the wire on J4 sends 12 vdc power to the engine ECM when the ignition has been turned on.  So, if relay K1 is starting to go bad, the ECM will lose the ignition signal - that's likely your problem.

That means you also need to connect a wire through a 20 amp fuse from 12VDC to the wire that was on terminal J4.  This will tell the ECM that that ignition is turned on.  That wire would need to either be switched or disconnected when the engine is off.

Now it makes sense as to why this board is causing your problem.  Should be an easy fix for the candy shop.

So I just did as you recommended. I ran an inline 20amp fuse and connected 12vdc to the ECM wire. I just used the fuse as my "switch" if you will. 

Then I just touched a wire from a 12vdc power source to the starter solenoid you circled in red and it fired right up. NO "Eng Comm Failure" on the dash and it didn't die at all in the 15min or so I idled it and revved it up slightly. So this clearly seems to indicate some type of issue with the board, specifically that K1 relay.

One question I have is; I have no other fuse lights lit up in the rear run box when it's running now (I honestly don't recall if they are when the motor was running when the PCB board WAS working). Is that indicative of anything? Would I be able to drive the coach like this, temporarily of course?

I greatly appreciate your insight, Frank. You are a legend. 

1 minute ago, Frank McElroy said:

It could be that something was pulling down the ignition signal when you pressed on it.  You'll know tomorrow when you try the test start.

I will report back tomorrow, but I suppose it's possible the ignition signal is somehow at fault. And thanks so much for the insight. I hope I can get this sorted.

1 minute ago, Frank McElroy said:

I'm a bit surprised that this board would in effect cause the equivalent of cycling the ignition switch when you pressed on it.  I don't see on the ignition switch schematic where the ignition feeds through this board to the engine ECM.  If it does, then my trick to turn on the ignition and jumper that 12 VDC wire to the relay terminal won't work to start the engine.  If it doesn't work, I'll investigate more.

Most times an intermittent ignition loss signal is an ignition switch going bad. 

Com failure means that the dash cluster computer lost communication with the engine ECM because of a databus issue or an ignition lost signal to the engine ECM.

This is what I was wondering about. But upon investigating the 3 position rocker switch that you can select "Front, off, Rear" with, I noticed it killing power to every board in the back run box and initiating a "Eng Comm Failure" dash warning. Even the guages up front were cycling from zero to full and back repeatedly until I turned the ignition off again. All I was doing with the switch was making sure it was set right on the PCB board. Then after replacing it I still had the issue. Then pressing slightly upon the board itself would sporadically kill power to the whole rear run box, literally every fuse light flickering off and on.  Needless to say, it has me puzzled.

36 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

They are the same as the dynasty/signature.  They are in our Downloads, under Electrical, Wiring diagrams.

Your other option is to turn on the ignition and use a wire to touch the starter relay lug circled in red to a 12 volt source.  This will crank the starter and start the engine.  If you want, just use the 12 volt wire that was on R1 that you removed.  Just touch it the the starter relay terminal circled in red.

Would it make sense to you that I have this issue with the motor just shutting off on me if that intellitec board is going bad? Then displaying an "Eng Comm Failure" on my dash when it does? Even had a friend come out and plug in his Cummins Insite to the coach and he saw a code for an "Intermittent Ignition Power Loss" or something worded similar.

It has made the coach undriveable as you can imagine.

3 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

No, you don't  need the board.  You just add a fuse between pins 2 and 4 on connector J2 that would plug into the board.  

Great, I will try this tomorrow. Thanks Frank. You are a wealth of information! Curious where you came across the schematics for a 2008 Navigator? I'd love to have them.

Thanks a bunch. If I'm understanding correctly I need to still have the board to bypass it? Unfortunately I already shipped the board off to get diagnosed/repaired.

I believe I've got a bad PCB board in my rear run box that is going bad. It is the 73-00825 board that has the 3 position rocker switch that allows someone to start the coach from the rear or select "front" to continue to use the key ignition. Then a momentary on/off switch to actually start the motor. I had my motor die on me 3 different times and got an "Eng Comm Failure" dash warning as a result. I replaced the switches on the board as I read a bad one can cause issue. The new switch came and I ruled it out as the problem.

But upon pressing slightly on the board, or moving the switch at all, I get intermittent power loss throughout the rest of the pcb boards in my rear run box and all the fuse lights flicker on and off. Then the motor recycles it's start procedure/lifter pump etc. 

So after talking with M&M RV Electronics, I send out the board for testing/repair. They should receive it Tuesday, though likely can't get to working on it for maybe 10 business days (bummer). Is there anyway I can bypass this board to start or move the coach while the board is being repaired?

I had a blowout in the front right steer tire on my 2008 Holiday Rambler Navigator. A small bit of tire fragment must have tore a couple wires out that interact with my Lippert steps. Since the tire blow-out I've had to manually attached the grey wire to the bottom bolt in the picture of the wheel well. This closes the steps. If the wire is not attached it leaves the stairs out.

My step switch just inside the door of the coach doesn't work any longer. I believe the previous owner replaced the steps at some point because the sticker on the underside of the assembly shows a date of manufacture in 2018. The grey wire was an extended piece of wire off another white wire. I *think* the two loose wires in the pic were both attached to the bottom of the two bolts in the picture. The door sensor no longer works to operate the stairs, nor the switch. The motor sounds fine in operation and retracts and extends fully otherwise. I'm scratching my head.

The steps and switch control worked flawlessly before the tire blowout.

Please see the attached pictures for an idea of what's I'm dealing with.

Just an update for the Kongsberg sensor. It appears to be working in the short bit of driving I've done with it. Yay!

Second to that, and almost more importantly, where I'm currently staying is a bit north of Houston. Well, I come to find out that Konsgberg has a manufacturing plant 4 miles away in Willis, TX. I stopped by and explained to a nice gentleman with Kongsberg the difficulty all of us RV'ers are having sourcing a replacement sensor. They don't deal direct with consumers but he had good ol Texan friendliness and felt bad for my situation. He gave me his cell phone number as he was headed to lunch. He gave me some very valuable insight though. Essentially saying the OEM sensor is programmed for a dual analog output signal. I asked if there was any possible way I could get this same sensor made for me or if there was an updated part #. His engineering team said it was an old unit and no longer manufactured and are programmed to specific requirements and ultimately sounded a bit hesitant due to liability. But that another dual analog output signal sensor would likely work.

I then sent him a picture of the Polaris Slingshot (Polaris is a large purchaser of theirs) sensor I purchased and explained I had to have it mounted exactly 180 degrees opposite the factory sensor (facing downward on the Teleflex pedal). He was at first concerned it may cause issues but then checking with the engineering team again, he said the serial number off the Polaris sensor was also a dual analog output and that if when the pedal in resting position, and the coach idles as normal (I confirmed with Cummins Insite software 0% throttle at idle), and it revs up to 100% then I should be good to go. It does. 

They also sell a lot to Cat and Club Car but not sure if this sensor is utilized on anything they make for those companies. I haven't bothered to look.

28 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Maybe this will work?

That looks like it. Just ordered it. Thanks much!

Now I'm in need of this sensor. Goes into the transparent bottom of my fuel/water separator. As you can see the yellow wire broke free from the sensor. I am going to attempt to solder it but ultimately I'd like a whole new sensor. 

Wondering if it's why I'm getting an "Engine Comm Failure" message on my Medallion display and sometimes unable to start the coach (cranks but won't start on occasion). As seen in this thread over on irv2.com https://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/engine-comm-failure-72170.html

Yes this fix posted is for a Teleflex adjustable pedal with the Kongsberg sensor on it. It has 6 wires running into the plug. The part number for the Kongsberg sensor is 6543212.

Ok so I've figured it out. The Polaris Slingshot pedal mounts the sensor in the downward direction. As you see in the picture. By taking that sensor and mounting it in the downward direction on the Teleflex pedals on my Navigator it works! And it makes sense that the mounting direction needs to change because this is the direction the Polaris pedal mounts.

It's possible changing the rotation of the magnet 180 degrees would accomplish this as well. I haven't tried to remove it. But purchasing the Sensor off a Polaris Slingshot and installing it pointing down appears to work.

5 minutes ago, Gary M said:

So what is the cost of the Polaris sensor compared to buying the Kongsburg pedal and sensor?

Gary,

I edited my post to reflect that it does appear to rotate clockwise with both pedals (the oem Teleflex AND the Polaris Slingshot). But what I'm finding is that the magnet orientation inside the sensor must be different so I can only get increased throttle by keeping the sensor unmounted (not bolted in) and manually rotating it.

I need to figure out if I can somehow re-orientate the magnet to the correct idle position or if that's even possible. Or if that's even the issue.

To answer your question, I paid about $125 on ebay for the whole pedal assembly WITH the Kongsberg Sensor 6543212. 

If I can figure this out and it's a viable solution it could very well save many members a large amount of headache and cash.

Ok to follow up on my post above this. I got my sensor installed from a Polaris Slingshot pedal assembly. The new sensor only works by rotating it the opposite way on the magnet, strangely. I'm a bit baffled by this. Still trying to wrap my head around it.

Awesome. Thanks for both the replies. I will reach out to them. Actually have reservations in Orlando in 3 weeks so may try Josam there.

Having a hard time finding or sourcing a place to acquire bushings for my tie rod ends on my 2008 Roadmaster S chassis. Is there a shop anyone knows about that is manufacturing them still? Mine are in need of replacement.

Wow it does look just like that. And I was just going off what the previous filter was on the coach from what the dealer had on it. This place rocks!

Thank you to the both of you.

To those that have this issue with the pedal assembly Gary M. posted above,  it appears that a 2015/2016/and some 2017 Polaris Slingshot's use this Kongsberg Sensor 6543212 (this is the one on my 08 Navigator) that is found on many of these Teleflex pedals in our coaches. It has the same bolt pattern and receives the signal from the rotating magnet on the pedal assembly. Same 6 pin connector as well. It's possible it needs to be calibrated but the sensor part # is the same.

I found this out through extensive searching and contact with an Ebay seller who put me onto it.

The filter is a Fleetguard FS19593 that has a screw on water canister on the bottom that houses the drain valve and the sensor. That is the reusable part that doesn't come with the filter.

It is. It's just unlabeled and not identifiable easily. Even Cummins can't tell me what it is.

Anyone know where to get a replacement fuel/water separator sensor for my 2008 Navigator with an ISX in it? Pretty sure it's bad. The coach manual just doesn't specify these things.