CTerry

I had the same problem a while back. Figured it was a GFI plug someplace. Checked the ones inside, All OK. Finally found 2 in a storage compartment these used for the tank heaters. Reset the one that had popped and unplugged the heaters. Why some plugs inside would be wired with those only Monaco know, but no problem since.

If your slack adjusters have not been greased at regular intervals they could be not adjusting. Have someone go under there and mark them with chalk and then apply the brakes. Easy to see the push rod travel. Inspectors do this all the time.

Beaver Coach Sales in Bend, Oregon.

I had to replace my valve the day I got home with my 2003 Beaver. I pulled the valve out and took it down to a local truck dealer. The parts guy said they didn't carry any crap made that cheaply. The whole thing was plastic. He went in back and got one that was metal. Connected right up with no problems. First one lasted less than a year, Second one has been there for 19 years. Buy a name brand metal one.

 Bonander Truck Sales, Turlock, CA. Good parts department. They also found me a new exhaust manifold when there were none around. sitting on a shelf someplace in the Northeast.

My alternator went crazy a couple of years ago.  On full charge all the time. I pulled it off and took it to the local Western Star dealer here. Took the old one with me so they could see the numbers on it. He went in the back and came out with an exact  replacement for it. About $150 as I recall. S..ame numbers, Same red wire out the back. Brand new.

Not an expert here but those overlapping gaskets do not look right to me.

Big difference between a REAL Beaver Coach and one built right after Monaco bought the factory in Bend. A lot of unhappy employees when that went down. It shows up in the build quality. Some stuff I have found was not dome by accident. Just be careful.

Sounds like a u-joint in the steering column. Grab the shaft and see if you can see any movement in the joints. Should be none visible.

My coax got cut just at the base of the crank uo antennae, When I pulled the base up of the roof and dug out the sealant I found a connection. under the roof was a couple of coils of coax. Replaced the coax from the top part of the antennae down to the base. Left enough extra to put new connection and some coax down in the space under the roof, I doubt you can pull coax through coach, Mine is zip tied to anything and everything every six inches.

Try replacing the plug that is behind the refrigerator. My Samsung quit working and I took the plug apart and found that the cheap blade type connectors had literally fell apart. Replaced it with a heavy duty GFI plug about 6 years ago. I am assuming you have checked for power in the wire going to plug.

Sometimes oil consumption is caused by the brand of oil you have used. I had a truck using 0 oil with CAT brand oil. Shop decided not to carry that one  day and put in Delo. Used a GALLON in 1200 miles. Replaced with Shell and consumption went to ZERO.

The day to replace that Norcold was the day you bought it.

I bought one of these at a truck dealership here. Just be sure it is continous duty. NAPA also has them.

I have a 2003 Beaver with hydraulics for the two slideouts and the jacks. I had a hose leaking at a fitting near the manifold for the pump. I thought I could cut the hose back and put a reusable fitting on it. The hose is rubber and we could not get a reusable fitting to stay on. Was told the reusable field replaceable fittings will not work on rubber hoses. Finally just replaced both hoses going to that slideout with all new fabric like covered hoses. 

I believe mine is on the inside. I had the dash off and could see the unit but couldn't find the resistor. Put it back together and then traced the wiring from the rotary switch to the front of the firewall where it goes through. Has got to be under the dash on the passenger side. We have a couple of short trips planned then I will try that again. Thanks for the info.

Thanks for the picture. My unit seems to be different but will look again.

My problem is I havent't been able to find the location of the resistor. Thanks for the links for sourcing it.

I have a 2003 Beaver Monterey. Does anyone know where the resistor for the AC/Heater fan motor is and how to get to it. Operating on just 3rd speed now. Would like to fix it but can't find it. Thanks for the help/

I have a 2003 Beaver coach. The wiper arms are a straight arm with an older type of connector, no J hook. I couldn't find one at any stores here. Amazon had them under RV 28 inch wiper blades. Even shower a picture of my specific connector.

When I first bought our 2003 Beaver with the ISC 350 Cummins I questioned the dealer about the 55 psi reading on the Alladdin screen. They called the factory and got the same answer they were giving me for everything else that was wrong. That's the way it is supposed to be.

Had same problem with mine a while back. There is a round sensor in the door frame about 15 inches up from the corner on the lock side of the door. That sensor will go bad or a wire will come loose. Also it has to be pretty close to the matching one on the door to work. I had to pull mine out a little and silicone it in place to correct it. Good luck.

On my 2003 Beaver the condenser and fan is located right behind the front step.

Read the manual. If you have three jacks you have dump the air from your bags then lower the front jack first to give the coach a pivot po[nt. I saw a guy pop his windshield out at a park in AZ. because the front was already high so he thought he could just level the back to it. Even if the front is higher you still need to raise the front a couple of inches first.

Thanks for the help. Just got the dash cover on and vents hooked up. Will look on that side tomorrow. Thank you,