drewat2

1 hour ago, lake49068 said:

Drew, same problem with the dash start/stop.  REV tried to help at 419MS a while back (and screwed up dash AC contol!) and new switch base did not help.  Where o where was the corroded connector? 

The bad connector was underneath just behind the generator before running up through the dash

1 hour ago, lake49068 said:

Drew, same problem with the dash start/stop.  REV tried to help at 419MS a while back (and screwed up dash AC contol!) and new switch base did not help.  Where o where was the corroded connector? 

Problem solved. A badly corroded connector between the dash switch and the 10pin connector. Cut it out and and re-wired a new connector

Just had the same problem. Cleaned the ball check of a small amount of debris. All good now. 3 way valve not the problem for me

On my 05 Dip with Onan 8000 gen, the dash generator switch has an issue. Will not start when pushed. Staring the generator from local switch, the dash switch then indicates run and switch stop function works. All connections, fuses etc. look to be good. Where to look next?

On our 05 Dip, CC won't engage if E-brake is active. Use mostly exiting highways and some grades (we live in the west so fair number of those). In city driving it's off and drive in 3 or 4th as E-brake is too touchy

Finally decided I could do the adjustment after reading this thread. Been a problem for a long time that required the outside magic opening procedure. The task of adjusting was easy and only a couple minutes to get it right. Unfortunately took several hours to get to get the inside door skin removed due to so many of the fasteners being buggered up requiring using an extractor among various other methods . We park for months on the beach in Mexico with the door open most of the time which led to the fasteners condition. The happy ending is all new fasteners and a door my wife now easily opens without me reminding her to push in and pull to the left to open

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One of our fans has died. I've read that they are not up to old standards since Dometic bought them out. Is a Maxxair a suitable replacement or should I stick with Fan-Tastic

End of this story. J-B Weld made the surge tank leak manageable, this allowed us to get North out of the stupid hot temperatures. Once we get back home in Eastern Wa. purchased a new steel surge tank and low level sensor. Had Cummins coach care near me install the new tank/sensor, drain, flush & fill the radiator along with our annual maintenance on engine & generator. Doesn't look like I did damage according to Cummins. Engine temp. now hangs right at 175deg F. 

A happy ending (except for the wallet). 

That's what I purchased

OK, I've read through ALL the discussion on this subject on our site. WOW! Now I get why lots of looking but not responding. So all that being said I'm going with the the ESCO switch. Already have the Progressive's HW50 on the incoming shore. 

Good stuff as always

Drew

Is this a good replacement for the IOTA ATS? Specs. call out that it is an ESCO LPT50-BRD with pretty solid reviews. 

Thanks

Drew

Update on my overheat issue. Got radiator externally cleaned.  new anti-freeze & radiator cap 16#. No other apparent damage. All good news, ready for final shakedown run be fore hitting the road when saw bubbling around the reservoir tank neck. Looks like I need a replacement reservoir.. Couldn't get parts list to open. What is the best replacement tank? 2005 Dep w/cummins

thanks Drew S

2 minutes ago, RVSSNAKE said:

Not claiming to be a tech here but you might have them check the cleanliness of the radiator if yours has the rear rad like our 2000 Dip. 

Washing the rad and maybe drain & flush was what we heading to do when this whole mess started. Sucks when you are not close to anything. Wikieup,Az

Going to Velocity Truck Center in Kingman, Az. 

Oh yeah I was shifting to keep close to 2000 rpms to help with cooling. Warning light was intermittent as I was running right close to hi temp around 210degF. The long upgrade and 116 ambient did me in. Hoped to clear the grade before I got too hot...didn't make it and got stop engine light. After about an hour cooling down on the side of the hwy. continued to a safe spot about 9 miles downgrade. Got here but stop engine was on again. 

Arizona heat and long steep grade caused an overheat condition. Got heat warning then eventually stop engine. Stopped on side of Hwy. let things cool a bit. Had 9 miles of mostly downgrade to a safe spot to park, ended up in limp mode and hot. Got up this morning, checked all fluids and appear to normal. Started the coach and all looked good for a minute or two started to feel better but then "stop engine" light on again. Waiting now for a tow to Cummins shop an hour away (that's where I was trying to get to. What do you all think my issues may be?

Thanks

Drew S

06 Dip PAQ

Update on my Norcold cooling unit changeout. In our toad we drove 750 miles up from Mexico to Tucson to pick up the Nordic unit. All looked to be correct so off we go back to our RV. 1st thing our tech says is looks too small, I reply no way. Way, it was the wrong part for a smaller Norcold. I hadn't saw the full size of the existing unit so visually it "looked" to be the correct part & all the paperwork as well as packaging indicated that it was correct part. Decided to make a silk purse out of a pigs ear based on all the feedback from all of you Monacoers, I bought a Helium charged JC Refrigeration unit (also ordered their package of fans, burner upgrades) and had it shipped to Tucson. Drove back up again in our toad, did the return of the wrong part and got the new after a few weather delays. Long story short, the install was very straight forward and the fridge is working better than ever. Greatly appreciate the comments and advice from all of you

DrewS 

Thanks for all the feedback. Decided to go with the "Nordic" cooling system, 2 year warranty. I'll post on how the changeout goes and how it performs. 

Our 2005 era Norcold 1200 cooling unit has failed. Anybody have experience with "Nordic" replacement cooling units. Do not want to go to residential.

Thanks -Drew

Thanks all. I thought that this was the case but like to run things through the brain trust here

13 hours ago, Jim Byrd said:

 

When I release the park brake The dash light goes out. When I put the transmission in gear I get an audible alarm. This happens intermittingly. Usually get it to stop by switching back and forth from N to D. The brakes do release and am able to drive. Where do I look?

McAfee LiveSafe

My security software saw this download as a security risk and stopped the download. Never a problem with the parts list. ??

Strongly suggest that you add "water miser vent caps" if you go with wet batteries. I second the picture taking of your wiring