eddie4ne

On 4/29/2024 at 10:50 AM, Rocketman3 said:

Before I started disassembling, I was wondering if anyone knows how that attaches. Do I need a new support bar because something broke inside? Or just retighten it up?

We removed the entire ladder and replaced all star nuts and bolts on the back of the RV.

Tom,

Thank you for the reference to the search. I usually come up with nothing useful. My mind thinks differently.

Sharon

We installed the same Hisense refrigerator and love the change. Can you give us the details of your secure closure for travel please?

3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Here is a link to what is available in the Downloads section

https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/1-air-systems-leveling-jacks/

I had the attached in my files which is dated 1999, I found it very close to mine. 

AIR SYSTEM Dynasty and Windsor.pdf 1007.51 kB · 8 downloads

Jim,
Thank you for the resources. All of your help has been GREATLY appreciated!

Sharon

2 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

You need to do your search on the "1st Monaco RV Owners Group" Facebook site. (Not the "Monaco RV Owners" Facebook site.)

Didn’t know there was such a thing…thanks for the info. Will definitely join!

I have problems finding referenced downloads in the past…and felt really stupid! I stumbled upon the downlodand have saved it

sharon

On 2/16/2022 at 9:32 AM, SteveC said:

If you are a member of the Monaco RV Owners Facebook Group there is a pdf document in the files section that gives detailed instructions on replacing the scissor with a gas strut. The file is called Monaco_door_gas_strut_upgrade.pdf. I made the upgrade on my 2000 Signature and it greatly improved the door operation on my rig. If you do the upgrade, measure and plan carefully. Every rig is slightly different with regards to the measurements given.

Please help! I am unable to find the file. What am I doing wrong?

@Scotty Hutto, thank you for the instructions to change the heater blower motor in the dash. While on our adventure to Alaska last year the motor started screaming when we turned it on. So we returned home to PA in late September without using the heater, BRRR! Armed with your directions and suggestions from several others, we undertook the repair. My plan was to try to access it without taking out the entire lower part of the the dash. My first cut into the dash was at the top of the steps as another poster had suggested, NOPE! (I then realized that if I were to make holes under the dash to access the screws to remve the lower dash, I would have probably not been able to get the screws out as they were screwed in at a 45 degree angle.) All that was there was a massive amount of ductwork. After disconnecting the vents on the face of the dash we discovered that the blower motor was just below the right heater vent.So I cut another access panel below the seam of the dash. Then I coulld see the blower and take the lower screws out, but could not get to the upper screws. Then I proceeded to cut an access panel in the upper part of the dash!! But even with these cuts I could not get the motor and squirrel cage out because the cross braces where the dash is seamed would ot allow the squrrel cage to come completely out of the housing. Then I cut the supports for the seam. At that point I was able to get the blower unit out. After cutting the first hole and not having success, I decided I needed another strategy. I theorized that if I cut the vinyl under where the wood trim goes that I could put it back together and hide the openings that I made…so I proceeded! My upholstery skills and Ed’s woodworking skills bothcame in handy! Now we have a quiet blower motor and a place to store our log book- old school, pencil and paper.

The second pic is where the motor is located. The circled area is where I cut the brace that connects the upper and lower dash. For this project our multi tool was invaluable for making the cuts. That is my go to for precision cuts.

Sharon

Next project is to replace the skylight in the shower and repair the rotted framework supporting it!!! MORE FUN

DOWNLOAD:

Procedure for replacing the blower motor on 2002 Windsor Replacing the blower motor on a Windsor, is not for the faint of heart or if you are in a hurry.  It took me several days to do the job.  The main problem is to remove the lower part of the dash on front of the passenger seat.  The lower section separates just above the wood trim. The wood trim strips are attached with screws from behind, but do not have to be removed. I first removed the center console; however this may not be necessary, but it is the way I did it because I could not figure out how the lower panel in front of the passenger seat was attached. To remove the center console, there are screws on the lower left and right side into the floor.  Remove the panel containing the radio and heater controls.  There are about 5 screws behind the radio panel that go down into the console.  There are also screws fastening the Trip Tek and alarm system that have to be removed. There are another 5 screws that go from the right side wall of the console into the lower panel in front of the driver’s seat. These must be removed in any case. The upper and lower sections of the dash are held together with 5 screws pointing upward that are nearly impossible get out.  The only way I could figure to get the screws out was to use a small hole saw to create a place for my screwdriver to go thru.  I bought a very thin right angle drill and a hole saw from Sears.  

 Has anyone dealt with mold and rot on rear outer corner of skylight frame

Jim,

Definitely on our “todo” list to check. 

Thanks for the heads up.

sharon

On 5/15/2022 at 4:00 PM, jacwjames said:

Here's a post I did 7 years ago on IRV2

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dont-wait-too-long-246255.html

I repaired 3 windows for less then $100.  Got a lot of good advice from IRV2 posters and followed their lead. 

If you are a DYIer it is a project you can do yourself and save money.  My windows are still good. 

Jim,

We replaced the door window about 8 years ago and it is again starting get condensation inside. We are planning on ordering the edgetech roll but wonder for the need for the other supplies. When we took the window out to have it replaced previously there was butyl tape around the outside. Did you not replace it with like kind?

Any other tips will be greatly apprciated!

Sharon

BTW- knocking the repairs out SLOWLY(long list) ! The trip to Alaska was AWESOME but very hard on the RV!!!

In 2022 we replaced our Norcold with Hisense 17.2 and it might be similar to the dimensions of your current Samsung. We paid $700 and are very pleased with it.

refrigerator hisense 17.2cf 2022.pdf

Canadian parks are BEAUTIFUL! When traveling through Canada to Alaska, we stayed in Provincial parks whenever we could. We especially enjoyed Laird, BC with the hot springs! The vista at Pine Lakes in Haines Junction, YT was breathtaking! The price was about $17 US but the Laird included the entrance to the hot springs so that was more. Laird was a little intimidating bc the entire CG is surrounded by bear fencing with signs everywhere, oh and there is the half mile walk to the hot springs outside the fencing! But it was so worth it!

3 hours ago, DBRV.0 said:

I'm a 2009 Monaco Dynasty, so perhaps I have what you do not - a solar panel.  I

We do not have a solar panel…on our wish list!

8 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

The ONLY part that you replaced was this disconnect switch and it was THEN when you had the back-feed problems. You still may have multiple problems but it is best to work one one at a time.

Ed did replace the solenoid while we were broken down figuring that might be the problem…it wasn’t

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Can you make a list of the things you did and the date.  Sounds like you had quite a few problems and from the batteries then the cutoff and now power backfeeding to dash with ignition off. 

I am sorry if I misled you. The ignition was on in the pic but the cutoff switch was off.

50 minutes ago, saflyer said:

Just read on another RV site that T-Mobile does have a gateway with an external antenna connection. Supposedly you just call T-Mobile and they will trade them out, no charge. We’ll see and hopefully it won’t have the signal drop problem i currently have.

m I currently have.

I borrowed our neighbors new Tmobile Gateway with the external antennas and was very disappointed! I couldn’t get a signal. I connected it to our Yagi antennas- but they are pointed toward the ATT tower. I then tried it in the upstairs window where we had the Tmobile Arcadian gateway. No signal anywhere. We were having problems wih the Arcadian reading a “SIM error”. We exchanged  the Arcadian for their newest gateway w/o external antenna ports- a Sagemcom Gateway, ( the new gateway with external connectors is only for new customers, I was told). Since getting the new sagemcom gateway we are barely getting a signal, 2-3 mps. Not sure where we go from here. I would like to keep th Tmobile because it is unlimited data but not sure.

It seems that we might have something to think about. I wonder if our breakdown had anything to do with the chassis battery not being healthy. Before we started our journey, I noticed that the start up was not as quick as previous. Within a week of our breakdown (1 month after leaving PA) we had to replace the chassis battery. We would usually camp at state or provincial parks therefore having to run the generator to make coffee and charge the batteries in the AM. This particular morning the generator started but sluggish. When running it was pulling 14 amps. We usually would pull 3 amps to run the residencial refrigerator. Hindsight- it was trying to charge the chassis battery. When I tried to start the coach, I had to use the battery boost switch. At tht point we decided that we needed to replace the chassis battery at our next stop. We next stopped in Williams Lake, BC at the Williams Lake Stampede. We could have walked to get the battery it was so close. It was at that stop that I noticed water on the floor and found that the kitchen faucet had sprung a leak underneath the counter. We also replaced that at this stop. 

38 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Before I'd buy a new isolation solenoid I'd consider installing a Bluesea MLACR, it will take the place of the boost solenoid but it would also enable you to get rid of the BIRD & Lambert 415 maintainer. 

We have a couple solenoids on hand to replace but…will definitely consider the Bluesea. What is the Lambert maintainer?

OBTW thank you for the wiring diagram files. My adobe files are getting quite extensive!

Sharon

We are thinking that the battery boost solenoid has failed. Number 3 in the pic. We plan to replace this. any thoughts?

Thank you very much for your hard work and the info!

Thank you so much! Great resources!

On 10/14/2023 at 9:40 AM, Tom Cherry said:

That makes this whole “thing”, a bit more complicated.  My advice.  STOP NOW….until Ed is back 100%.  The Intellitec unit needs to be properly “trouble shot”.

Just an update. Ed is recovering from what turned out to be his kidneys shutting down from prostate issues. Catheters and Surgery were involved in his recovery. He is still recovering but almost there. The issues with the RV will will have to wait until spring because we are warm weather ppl! Ed did get the motor for the step working but we will install come spring.

Sharon

We have both a Tmobile gateway and a Cricket ATT 100G/mo sim in a mofi4500 modem. When we were on our trp to Alaska we took them both. They both worked most everywhere but the Tmobile seemed to have  better signal overall.  When we crossed into Canada and when we were in Alaska both the Tmobile and hubby’s Visible phone were dead as a doornail! A couple of times we connected the mofi to an omni directional antenns to boost the ATT signal, but mostly just used the paddle antennas that came with the modem. Ed’svisible phone plan is not Visible+ but just the $25 plan. My Cricket phone $25 plan worked great through Canada and Alaska…except in some of the more remote State and Provincial Parks. 

At home we pipe in sunshine so these devices struggle to get a good signal. We have 2 yagi antennas connected to the mofi and therefore we get an acceptable signal but now have added Starlink to the mix! Starlink gets a much better signal!! We are trying to decide which to eliminate because we DON’T need 3 bills for internet!

Sharon

20 hours ago, Chipper said:

Pulling the shade was a blast, I had to sit on the dash backward over the steering wheel and use a long bit on the driver to take the 4 screws out

The alternative is to have it fall while you are driving…as ours did! Hope to be able to fabricate a bracket to hold it.

On 10/13/2023 at 8:19 AM, tmw188 said:

So was the malfunction you mentioned on your trip what you described in your post or was that what your experiencing since you changed out the switch?

On our trip after we lost all chassis power and realized it was the cutoff switch, we bolted the two cables attached to the switch together and we were good to go…just not able to cut power with switch. When I put the switch on is when I experienced this issue.

22 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

o you have other wires in addition to the 2 large wires?

2 wires only. Full disclosure, I bought the cutoff for a 2 battery system. But that should not effect this problem, just turn to battery 1. Pic below is the melted switch. The rear of the new switch is configured with the third lug being at the top where the circle is on the old switch.

Please excuse our dirt. We have not had time to clean her after 11553 miles with probably 300 to 400 miles of dirt roads whil on our Alaskan trip.

Also please excuse my ignorance! Ed is down for the count with COVID. He was first symptomatic when we were on the coast of Oregon. We held up in Bend Thousnad Trails for a week- they were kind enough to extend our stay to give him time to get over the worst of it. He is now dealing with the long covid symptoms.
I have been trying to do whatever I could to get things started. Yesterday I put the new gear on the step. It is not working either. I am thinking that the connector that hung without a cover over it it packed with dirt…like EVERYTHING else! I also put the rear slide out to reconnect the worm gear but I can’t do that by myself. 
 

I attached some pics that I thought might be relevant. The pic of the dash is taken with the switch off as seen the the next pic

Thanks so much for all of your advice! You all have been a Godsend!

Sharon
Have a new air filter ready to put on as well as oil change supplies.

I thought it was malfunctioning also.  When I called the vender he concurred. When I swithced the wires to   The configuration in the pic above it still did not shut the power down. Just trying all possibilities, we cut the power to the house at that also cut the power to the chassis. When I took the switch out of the equation, the power still reached the engine with the switch disconnected.

23 minutes ago, myrontruex said:

Either your switch is bad or you miswired it.

I replaced the cutoff switch that malfunctioned on our trip to Alaska. The switch wil not shut the power down on any position but the power will turn off if I shut off the house cutoff switch. I then turned the house switch back on with the chassis switch off. Turn on the ignition and nothing for a very short period of time, then the dash comes alive. I disconnected the chassis cutoff switch and the dash still had power. I suspect that the power is back feeding from the house batteries…but how and why!!

I repaced the switch with another Quest brand. The poles on the rear are labeled exactly as the original. The instructions said to connect the feeder and battery the opposite of how the original switch was wired. As per instructions, the wires were crossed when connected.       I originally wired it this way and later wired it as the original so I could mount in the original position.  

Any thoughts?