astgerma

Contractors Solvent works great for removing the Diamond shield.  It can be purchased on the internet or at Walmart or Home Depot .

I have the same problem with the driver side shade.  It does not want to go back up.  But if I push the down and quickly push the up it will go up.  this happens all the time.

Make sure it is in park mode.  rev the engine a bit to make sure your sending voltage to battery and try closing door to retract the step.

that has worked foe me.

Good luck and have a good day.

If you manage to bow the panel and get it out.  You then can saw off the 90 degree bends on each end.  Then get some 1 x 1 x 1/16 aluminum angle and mount them to both sides.   Then flush mount the panel back into place.

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Andy,

Good deal.  FWIW, from a fluid dynamics point of view, odds are the check valve in the hot water heater has failed.  From a flow stand point, the check valve in the pump kept the hot water from “backing out”.  But the internal check valve, assuming your hot water heater has one like the video and article, had failed earlier.  But the check valve in the pump prevented the heated water from backing out and crawling or migrating along the inlet.

However, the leaky check valve in the pump also prevented water from backing up, under pressure, and then filling up your fresh tank.

Problem solved at the pump, but not at the real source.  

Glad you were able to fix it.  Would you please post the brand and model of the pump and the Amazon replacement.  @Frank McElroy will then add to our parts list.  We don’t have much info on the Monarch, but will include this in the plumbing section.

Thanks for the follow up.

Where would the check valve in the water heater be???

There is a one way valve at the outlet of the hot water tank

9 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Andy,

Good deal.  FWIW, from a fluid dynamics point of view, odds are the check valve in the hot water heater has failed.  From a flow stand point, the check valve in the pump kept the hot water from “backing out”.  But the internal check valve, assuming your hot water heater has one like the video and article, had failed earlier.  But the check valve in the pump prevented the heated water from backing out and crawling or migrating along the inlet.

However, the leaky check valve in the pump also prevented water from backing up, under pressure, and then filling up your fresh tank.

Problem solved at the pump, but not at the real source.  

Glad you were able to fix it.  Would you please post the brand and model of the pump and the Amazon replacement.  @Frank McElroy will then add to our parts list.  We don’t have much info on the Monarch, but will include this in the plumbing section.

Thanks for the follow up.

Precitrade Shurflo 2088-554-144 Fresh Water Pump, 12 Volts, 3.5 Gallons Per Minute, 45 Psi  (Can be purchased on Amazon)

After looking at all the recommendations from all that replied to this problem.

I want you to know that it was the check valve on the pump.

I priced the check valve at $51.00 and a new pump at $70.00.  I found the pump on Amazon.

I elected to go for a new pump to eliminate any future problems.

I thank you all for your advice.

Andy

Yes I do have a pressure regulator installed. 

It seem like when hot water tank gets hot it creates more pressure and migrates hot water back to the 12 volt pump and causes it to leak at the seam.

21 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Curious if this is a new issue or you’ve had it for some time?

I have had this coach for 15 years and this is the first time that I have had hot water migrating backwards to the 12 volt pump.

I will take a look at the pump and see if the check valve has failed.

Thanks for your suggestions .  To add a check valve in the line sounds like a good way to go.

That is what I will do first.

Thanks again, Andy

How did you hinge the door on secret room.  Nice job!!!

I had the same problem till my Macerator pump broke. 

Removed the Macerator system and went to conventional dumping of the tanks and the sewer smell disappeared.  

Check both battery disconnect switches and the relay that connects both house and chassis batteries together.

I have a Monaco Monarch 33sfs.  Gas RV.

I was not able to shut off the generator from the Salesman switch on dash of RV.

I replaced Salesman switch and did not fix the problem, I am able to start and stop generator at switch on generator.

Looked at 8 pin connector at generator and all looks good. 

Noticed  another 4 pin connector under the unit and as soon as it touched 3 wires broke loose from it.

I have tried to replace this connector with another 4 pin connector as used for trailer connector.

But I am having a problem as to how it is wired .  Does any one know the wiring for this connector.

One pin has two wires to it and the other three have a single wire to them. 

There are 2 blue that go to a brown and white,  1 red to red, 1 brown to blue, and 1 green to green. 

This combination tries to start Genny but shuts off immediately.

Does anyone have the solution to my dilemma.

Well now that the new end cap is back on as I was installing it I found out what really caused the problem of the bent ratchet stop.

The 10-32 screws that hold the end cap in place were stripped out and that was the problem.  It allowed the end plate to separate  and the ratchet to  go past the stop and bend the stop.

I replaced the 10-32 screws with #12 sheet metal screws.  I had to grind down the heads to the same size as the cap screws.  I did this to both end caps, Just in case.

Thanks for all the response and the info on the number wraps on the spring to hold tension. 

On 6/10/2021 at 7:06 AM, throgmartin said:

Andy, Those bent tabs is the reason we stock a lot of those end caps. We stock a lot of springs as well.

I am always left wondering why other repair centers don't stock these common parts that are known to fail. They are always scrambling to get and end cap or spring when a customer shows up with a problem. We sell to a lot of dealers who would rather buy from us then a wholesaler because we ship faster. Even Camping World has bought from us because we can turn parts around quickly.

If someone in the USA who needs specific parts for Carefree assemblies calls Monaco or the Carefree factory they send them to us. Monaco is particularly annoying as they send customers tech questions to us as well. In turn we end up providing free tech support to their customers and it loads down our staff while freeing up their call center. We never turn anyone away and do it for the benefit of Monaco owners but I get a little tired of eating up our company resources by providing factory support for Monaco without getting reimbursed by them.

I forgot to mention, once you get the assembly back together, check for end play. See if the roller tube has any play end to end. This has been a common problem with large Carefree slide assemblies. If you find end play bush the left end with a washer. That end play damages the end caps and I have had numerous customers have their flarge slide topper assembly come off their coach while driving down the highway at 60 mph. Most end up on the roof destroying solar panels, sky lights and other items on the roof. We always check end play on all large slides when we get a coach in. Be sure to check yours.

 

Thanks again for the information on this subject.  You have been very helpful and correct with your recommendation

Andy.

Thanks for the replies on my dilemma.  The problem is the hold down tap on the right end cap.

I called around and factory was out of stock.  called Alliance RV in Wildwood FL as I have dealt with them in the past. 

They did not have one but found me one at Amazon.  I was surprised that they had it so I ordered it this morning.

I will keep you in mind for future items that I may need to order. 

Thank you all for the information. 

Does anyone know how many turns are required to load up the spring on a Carefree Summit XL topper.  This is on a 24 foot slide out.

I had the slide open and looked up to find that the topper was very slack.  looks like the spring either broke or unloaded some how.

After you have removed the panel with great difficulty.  I would recommend that you cut off the 2 angle parts of the panel.  Get a piece of 1 x 1 aluminum angle and

screw it to the side wall.  The you can flush mount the panel to the aluminum angles.  Will make it much easier to assemble and remove the next time.

Thank you all for the input.  I was not aware of and why this was a problem area.

What is the problem with Marinco BEP battery switch.

Thank you, I'll look into that direction.