Jim McGarvie

47 minutes ago, top flight said:

LNot sure if this is the correct forum.  While driving recently my passenger side wiper arm broke at the point where it bolts on.  Fortunately no damage to the coach.  Coach is 2007 HR Vacationer XL, diesel pusher.  Does anyone knowthe make of the arm and if it has a tapered or straight mounting hole? Thanks for an info.

 

That looks just like the ones I just replaced on our coach last week! Does it have "Dyna made in Brazil" stamped on it? I got ours from Rome Truck Parts:

http://rometruckparts.com/

Ours were the LE 62220  24"  Wet (wet meaning with the washer hose), but your length may be different. Kristin at RTP (kristin@rometruckparts.com) was very helpful.

8 hours ago, MPfeif said:

Your Knight almost certainly has such a connector, but the symptoms you're describing don't quite align.

On my Signature, the cruise control functions are sent to the engine over J1939 communications. Most likely yours is hardwired from the VIP smartwheel controller to the engine.

The tie in with the headlights being on leads me to wonder if you have poor ground or possibly a high resistance connection in the 12 VDC supply. The download section has troubleshooting for the VIP smartwheels, you're in year range the smartwheels were changing to the clockspring system, so check that what you have matches the guide. I'd concentrate on the voltage measurements, and take them with the headlights on and off, and the functional tests to see if the cruise outputs are working, again with the headlights on and off.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for your response, Mark. I've long suspected a poor ground or high resistance connection, but have not been able to locate it.

Our 2002 Knight--built in 2001--does not have a smartwheel. It doesn't even have a smart driver holding the wheel.

We've been plagued by cruise control issues for years. It will almost never engage if the headlights are on. Once engaged, I can turn the headlights on and increase or decrease speed using the cruise control. More recently, this behavior sometimes occurs with the headlights off. I've long suspected a loose or corroded connection, but have never found anything.

Any chance our 2002 Knight with the 5.9L ISB engine has such a Deutsch connector?

I referred to these when I did our replacement a few years ago. We like it much better than the scissors.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/gas-door-prop-installed-241214.html

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/replacing-entry-door-swing-arm-with-gas-strut-276148.html

https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=116505&d=1452777977

17 hours ago, bradyence said:

It definitely could be a bad shock, bushing or maybe even an airbag.  But I did had the exact same thing happen on my 2001 Diplomat, it took me a little while to figure it out. I don’t believe we have the same chassis, mine is a rr8r and I think yours is a rr4r, but it might be something similar. My airbags are outside of the frame rails in line with the tires, and have frame sections that protrude out sideways from the rail to hold the airbag and shock. And there are stringers in between the frame rails that stabilize everything. I had several spots on my stringers that the weld had broke or the metal had bent this was causing the frame to flex more than it should. I had two of the arms protruding from the frame, actually pushing up into the floor of the motorhome. We had to jack up the frame and pull the pieces back together with chains, once we had the right place we welded it back together, and added extra gussets to strengthen it. I would recommend inspect every weld and connection point on the frame. Helpful yours it’s simpler than mine.

 

Thanks, Brady. I hope so too!

30 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

My clunking was broken off upper shock mount stud. 

Thanks Walter. I hope ours is just loose and not broken!

4 minutes ago, Paul J A said:

IIRC means ???

Sorry, "if I recall correctly." I thought with this group acronyms were pretty familar. I still haven't figured out what the frequently-used "DW" means.... Dear Wife maybe?

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Generally speaking....both personal experience, helping others and also reading posts for over 15 years....here is the drill.

Noises that come and go or bang or clunk under the area of the wheels are a LOOSE shock. There are TWO kinds of mounts used on Monaco's...

Some have an EYE and EYE...in that there is a ring or EYE on the top and the bottom.  Others use a STUD and EYE.  The stud uses a plate, two rubber bushings...with a steel insert and a top plate and a nut. These are NOTORIOUS for loosening.  So check the TOP mounts....if they are the STUDS....then odds are....one or more is loose. I put on new shocks in 2012.  Had the front tires replaced in 2018.  TWO of the shocks had lose nuts on the studs....  WILL DEFINITELY GO CLUNK

Next...  Look at the wire or hollow tube staves or reinforcement rods that go from the corners of the fenders to the chassis.  Sometimes they crack.  Other times the screws loosen.  Often, over the years, you have to "rebend" and drill a new screw hole to tighten up the brace 

Finally....On the FRONT fenders...the ones with the curved cutout for the wheels....at least on many...., you can see the attaching screws that screw in from the bottom and hold the fender to the main body.  These bolts will loosen...  Mine, new out of the factory, banged.  The dealer put in TWO MORE screws. These are metal roofing screws.  They are a Hex Washer head with a insulation washer (fiber). You can buy them at Lowes or such.

BE CAREFUL.  Use a 1/4" ratchet and extension and tighten the existing ones...  DO NOT OVER TORQUE...as you will warp and pull one side higher than the rest.  On mine....there is a "gap" between the fender insert or panel and the main body. Keep the spacing uniform. If you add some... I added TWO....then predrill and start the self tapping drill point screws...and then finish torquing with a hand ratchet and keep the gap uniform...

Great info, Tom! I hope to get under there this morning if it isn't raining (the ceiling in our hangar is too low to raise the motorhome inside), and I will check all of those things. I will let the group know what I find. I'm betting an upper shock mount, which IIRC are of the stud variety.

13 minutes ago, Bob Keating said:

My driver's side slide makes a clunking noise that appears in the center of the floor just behind the driver and co-pilot seats. You can verify this by running the slide all the way in, and then back out just a bit. if the clunk goes away, that is probably your issue. Mine appeared after putting on slide plates. It changed the geometry just enough to cause the steel wheel on the slide channel to bounce off of the top the the channel with the slide fully in. I was able to verify this by opening the passenger side fuel door and shining a light on the wheel. I could replicate the noise by pushing on the steel wheel with the slide fully in. I am sure, in my case, a proper alignment of the slide will fix it.

Interesting, Robert. The shop guys did extensive work on the slide and failed to find the source of the noise, but your suggestion is certainly worth a try. I'm not sure our slide--relatively small--even has such a wheel, but I will check. Thanks.

12 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

I had a top shock eye open up on those old bilsteins and beating into the floor when we got the coach. The new ones were made much stronger. Worth checking as Ben suggested.

Our Bilsteins are only four years old, but even though stuff can happen.

1 hour ago, Brian J said:

I have used a go -pro camera mounted in the area, they have magnetic base and different clamps available. You are able to watch on a phone or tablet real time or record it..

I have used this method many times to track down an issue.

Thanks for that idea, Brian. I just happen to have one of those. If I don't find it crawling around underneath I will give that a try.

Just now, cbr046 said:

Sometimes I get a clunk also.  The front left side panel around the wheel and fuel door panel aren't secured all that well and it may be wind hitting it just right.  It's very infrequent in my case. 

- bob

That doesn't appear to be my issue, Bob. And ours is VERY frequent.

7 minutes ago, Robert92867 said:

I had a similar clunk.

Good tip, Bob. Thanks.

9 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

I would probably start with shocks / shock mounts.

I will. Thanks.

8 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

If you happen to be anywhere near Orlando FL sometime in the future and no one can pin down the source of your 'clunk", I am positive that Barry (shop manager) from Josam's will know exactly where it is emanated from if it has anything to do with any chassis component.

They have a special machine where they can get below the chassis in a pit while the coach sits on special shaker pads to observe and identify any loose components.

Thanks Richard. That sounds wonderful, but we won't be heading to Florida in the foreseeable future.

For the past few hundred miles we have had a new and unusual "clunk" sound when going over bumps, or even rocking back and forth, which appears to be coming from the vicinity of the front slide (which is behind the driver's seat). The owner of our local RV shop and a technician took turns driving it and even riding in the basement compartment nearest the apparent source, and they could not pin it down. They extended and closely examined the slideout. They think it may be coming from some suspension component in the front left area of the chassis, but looked and did not find anything obvious.

I have looked also, and tried to shake components but was unable to detect any slop in anything. My next step will be to jack up the front end (and block it with stands, of course), and see if I can find any looseness with weight off the front wheels.

Anybody have any suggestions regarding a possible source?

Thanks.

18 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

Wow! Lots of discussion in this thread. I didn't read it all... 🤐

To answer your question, I have a Victron Orion-TR DC-DC Converter 12 VDC to 12 VDC 18AMP Isolated ORI121222110 from House>>Chassis.

I'm not trying to charge the house lithium batteries from the alternator while moving, just keep the chassis batteries floated while parked. I figure if I really need to charge the house batteries while moving, I'll start the generator.

My first attempt was to put a small noco battery charger on the chassis battery, plugged into the block heater outlet. But that charger was a little too smart and would occasionally go into an error state and let my chassis battery go dead. The victron has been 100% reliable.

Thanks Walter.

19 minutes ago, HarleyR said:

I had the same problem. The screws had pulled out of the metal frame. I replaced the screws with some stainless ones, a half-inch longer and larger diameter.  Urethane caulk and re-installed the belt cover. Still good after 3 years!

Thanks Harley. I'm still looking for new screws....

18 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I had a leak in my top belt line where the rear cap mated to the roof, there was a buldge and the caulk failed.  The leak ultimately causes s large delamination area.  All the screws going down the rear vertical piece of the aluminum extrusion were rusted badly some of them completely rusted off. 

I'd inspect all the caulk on the belt molding!!  There was a recent video posted on how to do this.

Thanks Jim. Yes, I'll be replacing all the screws and all the caulk. And I've watched the video.

3 hours ago, Happycarz said:

Take a look at the upper belt line video to give you some insight.

 

 

I have, and found it very helpful. Thanks.

3 hours ago, diplomat don said:

With your new experience of the rusted and perhaps broken screws on the beltline I would recommend looking further as the rest may be badly rusted as well, as that was my experience with my former 2001 Diplomat. Good luck, Don.

I certainly will! Thanks Don.

1 hour ago, Chargerman said:

I would look from underneath to see if you can put a piece of pressure treated wood behind the joint then screw the beltline trim thru the cap and into it with longer screws. Just be sure your piece of wood bridges the cap and the sidewall.  I would probably put some construction adhesive between the parts before screwing them down

Worth a look. Thanks.

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

Should be some screws or rivets in there.

There were screws going through the aluminum "belt line" into the front cap; nothing into the body.

1 hour ago, Bob Wightman said:

just re-caulk...but use a urethane base caulk like OSI Quad that you can get from Home Depot or Lowes

I  hope that is a strong cement!

That joint is almost covered by a vertical "belt line", similar to the regular belt line. The problem is the belt line is entirely over the front cap; none of it is over the body. It appears the only thing holding the front cap to the body is caulking. And there is nothing behind the body panel to secure it to. See pictures.

Is this normal? Do I just re-caulk?

59 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Not sure on the way your might come off. 

On mine the hinge is two parts, one is mounted to the side of the coach and the other is the channel on the top of the door.  The door will slide across the top one.  I just had to remove the rear 3 doors on the drivers side.  Two are taller and are just below the belt lint.  Had to take the gas struts loose to remove the doors.  On mine there was a rivet that holds the door from sliding back, had to drill out the rivet and those two doors slide back, it is a tight fit I have to hold my hand on the top back portions to that I don't accidently scratch the side of the coach.  The third door was the last one under the LR drivers side slide.  It also had a rivet that had to be removed and then just slide it back. 

I just looked at the passenger slide where I don't have a slide, I believe I could remove the door without fooling with belt line.  Just have to tip the door up high enough to that it is basically perpendicular to the coach and slide it off the upper hinge portion, just make sure not to scratch the side of the coach.  

Try above and if you have a problem post back. 

 

 Your tip got me on the right track, Jim. In my case, with my wife's help, we had to get the door nearly vertical and then with hard hits with a rubber mallet I was able to budge it about 1/8" each hit. By spraying WD-40 into the hinge track we were eventually able to slide the door out the forward end of the belt line.

You are right, I wouldn't have had to mess with the belt line at all. But I'm happy for the opportunity to replace those rusty screws with new SS screws and new caulking.

Thanks much for the tip!

I damaged the curb side forward door, and am trying to remove it to take it to a body shop. I believe I need to remove the belt line part way to slide the door out forward. I have removed the first several screws (all rusty, most broke; will replace with SS) and can pry the top of the belt away from the body (see photo), but the bottom seems to be secured and I can't see by what. Anyone have a clue?

I just tried to order a Cummins engine part and it all seemed to go well until the end I get a screen saying only: "Your request for application access is submitted"

I guess I will wait and see if I receive a notification....