Jim McGarvie

I damaged the curb side forward door, and am trying to remove it to take it to a body shop. I believe I need to remove the belt line part way to slide the door out forward. I have removed the first several screws (all rusty, most broke; will replace with SS) and can pry the top of the belt away from the body (see photo), but the bottom seems to be secured and I can't see by what. Anyone have a clue?

I just tried to order a Cummins engine part and it all seemed to go well until the end I get a screen saying only: "Your request for application access is submitted"

I guess I will wait and see if I receive a notification....

What is the new solution from Renogy? I don't see a link.

OP here. Thanks to all for your valuable input. As a consequence I have decided not to pursue a DC-DC charger at this time. Not charging from the alternator while driving has not been an issue to this point, and if I need to charge when the driving day ends I can always use shore power or genny.

I have installed three 12V 100AH LiFePO4 batteries. Initially I just disconnected the relay between the engine and house batteries to avoid the potential alternator issues of charging the lithium batteries while driving. I have solar, so depending upon available sunlight I might get by this way, but I am considering installing a DC-DC charger. What is everyone's favorite? I would just as soon not need to run a wire to the alternator if possible, simply replace the solenoid with the charger.

1 hour ago, Gary M said:

It was installed correctly except it needs the correct spacer so the fan is centered in the fan housing. Air is being pushed around housing instead of through it to radiator.

That would certainly make a difference!

4 hours ago, PeterSchweizer said:

make sure the source fan is not installed backwards!  it should be pushing air to the outside of the rear radiator

Installing a fan--or propeller--backward does not reverse the flow. It may make it less efficient, however.

On 7/29/2023 at 6:27 PM, Robert92867 said:

What book?

I thought I saw it in the owner's manual that came with the coach, but looked and can't find it. I checked the Cummins 5.9 ISB manual and it says to look on the engine dataplate. I will do that the next time I get the chance. I'm pretty sure I didn't just dream it....

The book says max boost on our 2002 5.9 ISB (built in 2001) is 22.5 psi, and I consistently see that or almost that at full throttle.

If it is anything like ours, the box just lifts out and provides access to the motor.

1 hour ago, Rocketman3 said:

Battery boost problem goes to the type of bms you have in the batteries multiplied by the number of batteries. 

if you use the boost to “recharge” the starting battery for 10min or so - no problem. However if you want to hit the starter - you need to know your overall capacities.

My diesel engine wants something like 900 to 1000 CCA (cold cranking amps) for the battery.
 

If your lithium bms can only deliver 100amps by spec, and you don’t want to take it to 100% - so let’s derate it 20% - now have 80amps available- multiply by say six batteries- that only gives 480amps for starting.  That may be enough for the generator- but not for the main engine. 
 

Now if your bms is rated at 200 amps - 20% derate would be 160amps - times four batteries is 640amps. Still a bit low. But maybe with the starting battery and a warmer engine- you might be ok or you could blow the FETs in the bms. 
 

One of the issues is the Locked Rotor Amps needed to start the starter turning - takes a lot of energy for that initial hit of power

That is why the manufacturers say you can’t use them as a starter battery. With enough batteries you could… but…

Thanks Michael. I think I will avoid using the boost.

I guess since the website for our new PowerUrus lithium batteries says "Our batteries cannot be used as starting batteries for cars", I should probably avoid using the battery booster switch....

On 5/4/2023 at 12:20 PM, Michel said:

Thanks, I guess if I revome it I have to screw a plug in place of the solenoid? This is what mine looks like. Cannont unscrew from the tank, it's very pressure in the tank and risk of fire.

Ok thanks, yes looks like there is more than one type of system, this one I have is kind of weird, it always have current on it to keep it open, I mostly boondock and it draws quite a bit of the batteries, near 2 amps per hour.

 

I finally got around to crawling under the coach and checking how I disabled the solenoid valve, and I actually removed it physically and replaced it with a brass fitting that has a connection for a hose to extend to the side of the vehicle to connect to a gas grill.

3 hours ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

I actually assembled my 280ah battery myself using some quality cells from China, and well reviewed BMS module. Was a fun winter project, but probably not for most. Total cost was approx. $1K Cdn, or $630USD at the time. 

 

Got it, thanks.

23 minutes ago, windsorbill06 said:

Jim,

Looks like your looking for battery brand recommendations.  I put in (4) 1300 Lion batteries, each at 105 amp hours (these are 12 volt batteries).  They are nearly the same size as my old 6 volt batteries.  I actually have room to add 2 more lion's, if/when  I decide.

Costco offers them about 2-3 times a year on this particular battery (Not in their inventory continuously)  I believe they have it going on right now,  until the end of May.   $1399 for 2.    Not too bad a price.  They do not have internal heaters.     They should fit right into your battery tray.  Just have to change out the cables and address the charging issues with engine alternator and inverter/charger. 

 

 

Thanks for that info, Bill. I will look into them.

1 hour ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

My LiFeP04 battery BMS has built-in bluetooth so I can monitor the stats using an app on my phone, control whether whether or not charger and/or discharging is enabled. So I was able to skip purchasing a separate shunt monitor.

Hey Ken, that is what I am hoping to find as well. What make and amp-hours are yours and how do you like them?

1 hour ago, 1nolaguy said:

I do ot know how much space you have but I replaced 4 6v golfcart batteries with 2-100 AHr SOK LiFePO4 batteries. It turns out our energery ussage is much greater than these two batteries can provide so now I am looking to add a 400AHr server rack battery. You can check out https://signaturesolar.com/promotions?utm_campaign=sale_may_savings_event&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=258952327&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-_QRGRAvhQQG4gvDaSKV7l4VrspBMSu7bvNoeClmYW_cx2G9npNINlNxpnsFlwleNtehPAXk315k7u-hFgl6Vz_sHi1iQ&utm_content=258952327&utm_source=hs_email for current promotions. Very cost effective. Also check out Will Prowes on youtube for a lot of great information about Lithium batteries and systems. Changing to Li from lead acid may require other system changes you have not yet anticipated.

Thanks for the good info, Loel.

17 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

I can’t comment on the specific batteries that you’re considering, but I can share my experience with battery capacity. 
With a residential refrigerator, I generally use a minimum of about 200ah/day. 250 with kids watching tv and other misc loads.
With 4 golf cart batteries I could run a full day without plugging in but I had a lot of anxiety about running the batteries too low. I felt like I needed them totally full so I could make it through the day without killing the batteries. 
I sized the lithium batteries to go 2 days unplugged and it eliminates a lot of anxiety. Now I don’t stress about having the full capacity of the batteries available at any given point 

Thanks Walter. Your experience before lithium was about what ours is now. So what kind of lithium batteries did you end up with, how many and what amp-hours, and how do you like them?

3 hours ago, Seward G said:

I did a conversion from lead acid to lithium iron phosphate a year ago.  I'm glad I did. 

Because of the higher voltage for charging and higher charging amps several other changes were necessary.  The magnum control panel was replaced, so that it's charging system would work. To protect the chassis alternator and boost it's voltage a DC/DC converter was added.  The RV already had 1,100 watts of solar panels and changing that system's charge profile was needed.  The new magnum controller and DC/DC converter together cost about $350.  I shortened the 2/0 battery cables; parts and a crimper were needed.  I added a heater and controller to the battery bay.

I am posting this so that others will have an idea of the equipment, material cost and labor that are in addition to buying and exchanging the batteries.  Keep us posted on your progress!

Thanks for the good info, Jerry. Given our usual usage, I am going to avoid the DC/DC charger issue by simply disabling the solenoid between the chassis and house batteries. We don't need to charge our house batteries with the alternator while driving.

But what lithium batteries did you get, and how do you like them?

Thanks.

Folks, I am researching replacing my 6v AGMs with lithium. The four AGMs produce 440 Ah, of which about 220 is usable. I would like to get at least 50% more usable, maybe 300 Ah minimum. I would like batteries approved for 100% discharge, or close to it. I would like high quality BMS with Bluetooth.

Will Prowse seems to like the PowerUrus batteries (https://powerurus.com/products/powerurus-12v-100ah-lifepo4-deep-cycle-rechargeable-battery?aff=2). I could get three of them in my battery box.

Any opinions on those or other currently respected batteries?

Thanks.

Jim

1 minute ago, Michel said:

Looks like it will allways be closed if I just disconnect the wires since it is activated open with electrical?

Sorry, maybe I misremembered, or maybe our system is different from yours. If your system is normally closed, obviously it wouldn't work to disconnect it.

We dry camp more often than not, and came to the same conclusion early on (we picked up our Knight from the factory in 2001). I believe I just disconnected the solenoid electrically; I didn't physically remove it.

17 minutes ago, Michael J said:

So they are doing away with the “RV” model and the marine model as well?

They have renamed the "RV" service "Regional Roam," but it is the identical service.

I've always added oil through the oil cap on top of the valve cover. Much easier, in my opinion.

Thanks for the gauge info, Bob.

Hey Bob,

That dash looks very familiar. We have a 2002 30' Knight, also original owner. They didn't make the 30-footers for long; guess they weren't very popular, but a lot of people ask about ours and want us to let them know when we decide to sell (not likely).

I too added a couple of gauges to our dash: a transmission temp gauge on the right, and a voltmeter on the left. They were both from a 2002 Windsor, and match our other gauges. Can I ask where you got the air pressure gauge? I might like to add one of those too.

Thanks.