joecfd1

Follow up on my electrical issue from above. It turned out when I introduced high voltage to the coach I smoked the inverter. I'd like to give a shout out to our member @Mark B for offering up an Trace inverter/charger that he pulled out of his rig. It worked like a champ. Thanks for all for diagnostic tips and info. This forum is a wealth of knowledge. 

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Hi Joe,

Not sure what you meant by the lower plate.

You need to reinstall the two long diagonal bolts, not tight just hand snugged.

Look for two sheet metal screws, one on each side. They should be visible up through the openings where the grease screens were located and the same access to the long bolts. They will be Robertson Head screws which you need a square driver to remove.

Once those two screws are removed, then lay a heavy furniture protective cover on the counter under the microwave. Now remove the two long bolts, one at a time. You need two people, one holding the microwave up against the back wall while the second person is removing the bolts. Then slowly lower the front of the microwave down to the counter. You should have already unplugged the power cord from the outlet. Once there, now is the time to lift the rear end of the microwave off of the back plate ledge which it has been resting on down to the counter.

To install, reverse the process.

Thanks Richard. There were two screws that weren't visible until the lower black plate was removed. All finished and new Sharp R1874 is up and running!  

On 1/11/2021 at 1:33 PM, Dr4Film said:

Sent you a PM with removal instructions!

Richard… any chance of getting these instructions? I’m about to tackle the project. I’ve already removed the lower plate and removed the two diagonal screws. Something else is holding it up. 

Thanks, Joe

6 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Joe, this has been discussed previously. I quick search would have found you some answers.

This is what I had installed in my previous Windsor. I have vented the microwave in our Dynasty as yet. Low on the priority list.

Comes in black or white. Paint-able too.

https://rvandmarine.com/product/rv-microwave-oven-vent/

Perfect! Thank you, Richard.

For all of you that vented outside, what did you use for the outside vent? I need to replace our Sharp R-1850 microwave.

1 hour ago, Benjamin said:

The plug is wired incorrectly with the high leg of the three phase service.  You should not have 240V to ground.  You should only get 240V between the two hot legs, each 120V to ground.  If you know that, and that's been corrected, please confirm the status of whether anything else has changed.

Earlier you said the inverter was working, is it not working now? 

You said the transfer switch seems OK? Is there AC power going OUT from the transfer switch to the breaker panel?  Typically, a 2kw inverter will only feed a few circuits and be downstream of the breaker panel when hooked to shore power, it will not feed all of the breaker panel or affect the transfer switch (between generator and shore power).

Yes, we were using 2 of 3 poles on a 3 phase breaker… problem is that I picked up the high leg mistakenly. The inverter works off of the batteries but won’t pass a/c thru to feed the sub panel while running on either the generator or shore power. Also, the battery charging doesn’t work either. I’ve bypassed the inverter for a trip that I’m loading up for currently. It’s dry camping in the desert so I’ll be using the generator and a stand a lone battery charger until return. Thanks for all it the input.

It looks as if it's the inverter. I'm not getting A/C out of the inverter to the inverter sub panel on either circuit. Definitely have A/C in to both though.The transfer switch seems okay.

37 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

To accomplish that task, you need to have a set of electrical diagrams which you can download from the Monacoers site. Then start tracing where your power is correct and where it has failed.

Thanks Richard... I think I talked to you several years back... I made the new dash panels for my Windsor.

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

A photo of your shore power outlet and how it is wired would help out.

Does your coach have an EMS wired in prior to your Transfer Switch such as the Progressive Industries EMS-HW-50C?

If not you need to get one!

No EMS that I know of. The shore power is correct now but we're trying to find the damage.

14 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

That still wouldn’t put 240 on one leg

My building is 240/120 3 phase. Two of the legs to neutral will give you 120v while the other “high leg” or “stinger leg” to neutral will give you 240 volts…

12 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

(1) 240 volt leg??  That’s not possible  

It was at my office where I have 240v 3 phase… 

Well the plot thickens a bit. Apparently the shore power cord instead of having the typical 2-120v legs a neutral and ground had 1-120v leg, 1-240v leg and neutral and ground. We’re digging deeper into it this morning to see what we can find. I really appreciate all of your responses… Lots of great info!

27 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

First, before you get off on a tangent, do you have any AC inside the coach?  Do the A/Cs power on, for example.  Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?  

I doubt that this issue has anything to do with the transfer switch.

  -Rick N

Palm Desert till Sunday

 

The only time I have AC is when I turn on the inverter. The roof air's both power on but other than that, no AC in the rig at all. And yes, I'm fairly handy with a multimeter. 

Turn our I have a Lyght LPT50BRD Transfer switch. Nothing looks to be burnt. I have an electrician buddy stopping by in a while to try and diagnose. Thank god I have a small wife that will fit in the storage bin...😃

1 hour ago, tmw188 said:

Do you have this type of transfer switch, if so unplug the coach from shore power until you can open it up to look inside for burnt wiring. Do a search on the forum for more info.

I'll find out shortly if I have the Iota. It's a bit of a procedure as I have a broken shoulder currently. 😄

Joe

2002 Windsor 40PBT

1 minute ago, Ivylog said:

You have a 30 amp breaker in the 120V panel that powers the inverter/charger…cycle it a couple of times even if not tripped. Next there’s a hard to see 30 amp breaker on the side of the inverter that may have opened, push it back in.

Thanks, I'll give that a try!

Joe

2002 Windsor 40PBT

We picked up or rig (2002 Windsor 40PBT) from storage last week. Engine fired right up but I noticed the house batteries were completely dead. I then plugged it into shore power and it seemed to bring the batteries slightly then heard a pop sound and everything went dead. So yesterday I replaced the house batteries and now while either on generator power or shore power, the RC7 display says waiting for AC and never kicks on. BTW, I tried the inverter and it works fine. Does this sound like a transfer switch issue? Is there a fuse somewhere for this? Where is the transfer switch? Any thoughts? TIA

Joe

2002 Windsor 40PBT

On 7/24/2020 at 5:38 AM, Pampero said:

To all interested parties; I ran into a problem with this logo production.

The price went to high for my budget, they requesting a minimum of 50 and with the tooling charge I will have to spend over $2,400.00 and I don't know when and if I will recuperated the invested money.

I don't giving up, I am looking into sources in other  countries, India or China. 

I want these logo as much as many of you, so I will keep you posted

W

Anything ever materialize with the Windsor logos?

I removed the air bag this morning and found the part number on the mating face. For future reference, it is W01-358-9376.

Hi all, does anyone know the correct part number for a 2002 Windsor rear air bag. I had a rear tire blow this afternoon and took out the air bag with it.

2002 Windsor 40PBT