lindsey_27511

Take it to somebody that fixes this stuff all day every day. That’s what I do because I’d rather be playing and enjoying the RV rather than spending my time underneath it.
It’s not worth my aggravation. 

On 4/1/2022 at 9:27 AM, georgecederholm said:

Ken,

I do see the Victron as a plus for many who are doing wholesale upgrades to their systems, especially Lithium batteries. The one thing I’ve yet to see is commentary either way on longevity. I’m not sure how long the Victron units are expected to last or how problem-free they are, but I’d want to hear positive things before jumping in. And, by the time I get around to a Lithium upgrade, who knows which new vendor will be the marketplace darling of the day.

That said, all technology marches forward. If you have the original RV-3000 inverter/charger vintage 2003-2005, you probably have the RC7/GS remote. If you needed to replace the inverter/charger, you’d have to find a unit compatible with your remote if you wanted a plug-and-play solution. I know that Xantrex changed things in the late-2000s to a new remote, a separate AGS (automatic generator start), and different cabling (RJ45 instead of RJ-11) on many models. If you find yourself in that situation, it makes sense to look at other brands before deciding since the scope and effort may be similar. Just my two cents based on personal experience…

Ken, can you please expound (maybe a fresh post) on your 12v charging upgrade with Blue Sea? What did you replace with what Blue Sea components? TIA
Don 

2003 Windsor, ISL 370

Or fuel pump. My Cummins was “making oil”, spilling out the slobber tube and made a mess on the back of the coach and tow car (but my side radiator stayed clean). 
Cummins thought it was an injector and did a die test to confirm. It was a leaking high pressure fuel pump. $5,400 for the pump + labor. 

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Don, that's a very reasonable price. What Cummins shop did you use?

Sorry, that was from memory talking with the svc advisor. I just looked again at the invoice which was for an injector fuel pump AND manifold. 23 hours labor and it’s not itemized. El Paso TX. I’ve never been dissatisfied with prolly eight Cummins locations east to west. 

2 minutes ago, lindsey_27511 said:

Sorry, that was from memory talking with the svc advisor. I just looked again at the invoice which was for an injector fuel pump AND manifold. 23 hours labor and it’s not itemized. El Paso TX. I’ve never been dissatisfied with prolly eight Cummins locations east to west. 

The manifold kit was $777. The fuel injector pump kit was $5,500. 

On 1/30/2022 at 8:36 AM, jacwjames said:

If you think taking the radiator out is the lessor of two evils then go for it.   I had pretty good access to mine through the closets and bedroom hatch, never even considered taking out the radiator.  R&R of the radiator stack is a pretty big job and adds another layer of complexity to the job.  It would be my last choice. 

I didn't have any broken bolts (knock on wood).  I think I would of had room to get a drill in there to drill them out if I did.  Would have been a pain but doable. 

Maybe that's why the shops not in too much of a hurry to tackle the job, having to take the radiator out would have added to cost significantly.  If I had the radiator and CAC out I'd take and have them cleaned/checked.  Don't be surprised if the CAC is leaking, mine cost ~$1650 to have it checked and repaired, I didn't think it was leaking.

Three weeks ago Cummins replaced my cracked manifold on an ISL. Did it all without removing the radiator. They did have to remove the turbo. About $700 for parts and roughly 6 hrs labor. 

There are many times I just want to coast and let wind resistance or an uphill grade slow me down, like on a freeway exit ramp or when I want to slow down from 60mph for an upcoming speed zone. When I need additional stopping power from a downshift and jake I just touch the brake.
It is a safety feature that works automatically. No fumbling to turn on a switch. Otherwise, you better keep the jake engaged all the time if you expect to manage a panic stop successfully. 
I think it’s a far fetched claim that it messed up an ECM bc I believe it’s just a couple of relays that trigger from the brake lights. It was a super easy install. 
IMHO it’s the best thing since sliced bread and it’s been on my Windsor for 10 years. 

This device activates the jake brake and transmission downshifting AFTER I press the brake. Take my foot off the accelerator and the RV coasts. 

I have a 2003 Windsor PBDD and the 2nd Norcold 1200 I installed in 2011 has crapped out. I thought about installing an Amish coil from JC Refrigeration but then the issue of door seals and hinges came up so I'm replacing the unit. And not with another Norcold! 

It appears I only have 28" depth and 65" height if I want to keep the drawer below it. I believe I'm limited to a counter depth model frig. And lowering the frig floor doesn't look easy as the sink drain runs through the back of the compartment behind the drawer (and just below the frig shelf).

Any hints or tips or frig models?

And I only have 26" of space between the frig cabinet face and the opposing wall.

What have other Windsor owners done?

I have a 2003 Monaco Windsor with 109k miles. I had the pan hard bar replaced three years ago, can’t remember why or symptoms, and the shocks replaced about 5 years ago. 
I would like to have all the rubber “stuff” replaced in the steering/suspension system as preventative maintenance and would like to have all the parts when I take it to a truck shop for the labor. 
Is it possible for someone to provide me with a parts list? Big TIA

Don