mandms59

All,

Need help in identifying air valve type and replacement.  When I parked the MH ( 07 Diplomat 40 SKQ) at house we are staying at temporarily.  I could here a slow air leak.  As it was late I chocked the wheels and came out this morning to track down. 

The valve leaking is on Driver side of MH in bay where ac unit and hydraulic leveling system located on the front wall.  There are two valves there (same type)  the lower one is leaking as shown on photos.   I went to parts list as thought maybe it was the ride height leveling system valves for back???  Did not look the same as photos.

I do not have an air system schematic for my coach and did not see anything in download section on website ( unles I was searching in wrong place). I am not the most familiar with air system operations in general.  Hoping someone here can point me in right direction.

Thanks for any assistance/guidance.

Mark

On 2/8/2021 at 1:18 AM, Bob Nodine said:

Mark,

About five years ago we upgraded both units on our 2006 Diplomat to the High Output Penguin's and installed the new CCC2 thermostat. Before the upgrade we often had problems cooling the coach in hot weather. Have not had a problem since. I would highly suggest that you upgrade both units to the High Output version. For some reason they do not call them 15K units and I suspect it is because they are not quite 15K.

23 hours ago, vito.a said:

...I've never heard of anyone complaining about too much cooling so I would spend the extra money and go with two 15K btu units. 

6 hours ago, throgmartin said:

For some odd reason we have had a run on replacing AC's at the shop. We have done 16 AC unit change outs in the last few months. You are correct getting the Penguin II 's has been an issue but we have been blessed with a wholesaler who has " steered " new stock to us. I wanted to upgrade our AC's on our coach so I ordered 2 - 15 K's. ....

My impression of the 2 - 15 K's ? Amazing. I am really happy with them and enjoy that new thermostat. They put out a lot of air - much more then my older penguin's. Living down here in the swamp ( Florida ) you tend to appreciate a healthy AC unit and the new 15 K's are solid performer's.

In regards to installation I would check with Elite Repair & Renovation located in Harrisburg, Oregon. They are the West coast Monaco experts and all of their techs are from the old Coburg factory. I also suggest you go with two 15 K units and skip the smaller unit.

 

All

Thank you for the assistance/advice.  I was leaning towards 15K upgrade - answers here from everyone helped to solidify that choice.   Now I just need to find a reliable source to order from.. 

Chris ... hindsight being 20/20 ...wish I would have scheduled Dustin to install these units when we were down at the Shop end of July/beginning of August last year getting Guardian plates installed, replacing seals & redoing one of the toppers.... I will check out Elite Repair up here in OR.

All,

As we had some down time this winter, we are doing a few upgrades to our 07 Diplomat 40 SKQ,  One upgrade I have been looking into is A/C HP unit upgrade - I started looking back at end of September but put it on hold when it seemed there was no stock availability anywhere for Penguin II units. I have read through the different threads on replacing older penguin  units.  We currently have two older Penguin 13.5K  A/C HP units installed.  The units are original and I am not sure what service, if any , they received  the last 13 yrs (we are 3rd owner). The front unit was struggling to keep up this last spring/summer.  

I had planned to replace front unit with Penguin II 651816HXX1C01  High Capacity (15K) model.  I was not sure if I should go ahead a replace the rear unit at same time ( it seemed to be able to keep up in the smaller bedroom area).  However I know if I replace both units I can upgrade to CCC2 controller all in one shot. I plan to have work done as I do not have the capability to get units up to roof and move around due to current location/weather in SW Washington, and limited use of left wrist for the foreseeable future.

A few questions below:

(1) I am trying to determine if I should upgrade both units to 15K  or just the front to 15K and  purchase a new 13.5K unit for the rear - seems the cost savings is about $100-200 between units.

(2) Does anyone know the difference between Model 651816CXX1C01 and 651816HXX1C01?  From what I have been able to find online I believe they are both Penguin II's; the HXX1C01 replaced the CXX1C01 -  I may have lead on purchasing one CXX1C01 variant at a lower price.

(3) Recommendations for installation shops in Southern WA/ central Oregon area?  I have left messages with a few places to see what they would charge for installation if I were to have units shipped/delivered to them.  It still seems there a shortage for Penguin II units in general.

All comments/advise appreciated.

R/

Mark

13 hours ago, throgmartin said:

Mark, the fittings are no longer welded into place. We discontinued that option because Monaco routed those lines in different directions on different coaches.

I am leaving in an hour on a trip so wont be at the shop. Check with Amy to be sure the tanks we have in inventory have the removable fittings. The other change we went to with the tanks is we went to a large sight glass. The sight glasses we use are fused glass good to 1,200 degrees. They are housed in a 316 stainless housing.

Chris thanks for the update... I will give Amy a call in the morning.  I wanted to confirm actual dimensions as Jim M. mentioned the size was wider than current diagram on website.

Bob- thanks again for info; I was thinking the same thing about capping off the red line, figuring air would find its way to the top through remaining lines if I did not want to mess with installing a Tee.

Regards/

Mark

10 hours ago, Bob Nodine said:

The smaller red line coming from the thermostat area is to bleed air from the coolant system. Often when changing coolant air gets trapped in the engine. As the engine runs this air will be returned to the top of the surge tank.

 

Bob -thanks for the explanation. 

In reviewing options for replacement tanks (my understanding from Veurinks nylon tank no longer available), they are all setup with 90 deg brass fittings for the two black main hoses; Talin  has (2) 90 degree fittings welded in place.  

My question - can I put a  brass "Reducing Tee" in one of the two black lines at top of tank prior to connecting to  Hose barb fitting and run the red bleed air line to this "Tee" or would I also need to install a check valve into red line? 

I like the Talin Vector tank, however the fittings look to be TIG welded in place; hence the question above about running a "Reducing Tee" into one of the black lines above.

Has anyone used the Vector tank on Monaco/HR  having same return line configuration shown in previous post above?

Thanks/

Mark

I have also developed a leak in Surge tank.  I have included a couple of photos as I have 3 lines coming into the surge tank  - Two larger size black lines tied into one fitting and 1 red line into the other fitting on surge tank.

The red line ties into a cross tube in engine bay compartment which looks like it runs back to radiator(?) sorry for the poor quality photo for crosstube connection ...

Most of the replacement surge tanks look like they are setup for two hose connections directly to the tank.  As I do not have a schematic of cooling system I am not sure what the red line is feeding back to the tank.  Does anyone else have this setup?

Thanks in advance.

Mark

21 hours ago, throgmartin said:

Just as a tip, whenever replacing your Intellitec board it is a good idea to replace the corresponding breaker as well. We just had a Dynasty in with a failed Intellitec board. The previous service company replaced it but didn't replace the breaker. The breaker became weak when the original fried and it shorted and took out the new board. We replaced the board and breaker and had no more problems.

After much discussion between our tech and Dave Pratt we instituted a new practice that when replacing the board we also replace the breaker. Breakers are cheap folks.

Chris,

Thanks for the information.  Confirms my plans on replacing A/C CB's  before installing the new control board. 

Jim,

Thanks for the quick response & excellent directions.   

I  free-handed a wire diagram & photographed current installation.  As the wires were so stiff,  I had some wire nuts available in my repair tool box - so I connected the two wires together for each system running thru EMS control board for the night (my wife thanks you for getting the AirCon back for the night)

I will make a better temp repair tomorrow in the daylight.  Will check with M&M tomorrow I had them bookmarked when I started researching my options for repairing the problem earlier this afternoon.

R/

Mark Meyer

Hello,

We pulled into Ogallala, NE. for the night...when wife went to start rear A/C after I finished hooking up surge protector and 50 amp power, she smelled electrical smoke from rear of coach.  she immediately turned off A/C at control panel and called out to me outside.  

I came in and noted the EMS remote panel was blank but we had power still to the refrigerator and microwave.  I turned the main 50 amp breaker of at rear panel and went outside again to ensure that there was nothing wrong at transfer switch (no electrical fire burnt smell).

After some further T/S and turning power off at the pole, I pulled off the panel cover and sure enough I could see where the board had fried where the power wires came into board for rear A/C unit; with the power still off I took a look at some of the wiring in vicinity of the melt down... it looks like I may need to have a couple wires replaced in addition to the circuit board.

A couple of questions -

(1) Is there a way to isolate the EMS board so that I can charge the batteries and run a couple electrical outlets to run box fans (its 98 deg outside)

- e.g. kill breakers to everything except 50 amp and inverter in rear panel box // remove rear a/c wiring leads on control board where they were fried??

(2) My understanding of the way system works ... I cannot run generator either until board/wiring replaced - as power goes from gen thru transfer switch to Rear Panel/EMS control board. 

(3) It looks like I need 00-894-200 control board... hopefully I can only order the control board and not the whole 760 kit upgrade.

Thanks in advance  for advice/assistance

R/

Mark

All,

Thank you for the information... as I am the 3rd owner of coach (since 10/19), there were no slide locks in basement or inside MH when I purchased it on consignment.  Dealer did not mention anything about them during walk thru.  They may have disappeared with the original owner;  sent a note to second owner to see if they ever had them.... in previous discussions the slide locks were not mentioned.

R/ Mark

All,

Please see photos  - I could not find any reference in the owners manuals I have to these pair of holes located at front of coach just in front of both Driver & Pax slide-outs (same height and in alignment).

It almost looks like they would support a spring loaded collapsible rod ?? there is a small metal pin/rod in center at both ocations.

Thanks for assistance in advance.

Thank you all for your comments/insights

R/Mark

Hello,

I searched the current posts on this site for any information regarding rear axle weight limit concerns... did not find anything so appologize if this topic has been previously covered or was in a sticky that I missed...

We have just started full-timing with new to us 2007 Diplomat 40 SKQ.  With full fuel/ Water/propane and empty grey/black water tanks I am running 20,700 on rear axle and 12080 on front.

I was not smart enough at time of purchase from dealer to weigh coach to determine what the actual weights were for the axles prior to purchase.  What has me really worried is that I found a thread on IRV2 that pointed out the axles for 40 Diplomats  were Dana 19060s - which means they are only rated for 19K so instead on trying to reduce weight by 700 lbs. I need to dump 1700 Lbs from rear axle.  I do not know if that is possible even with limiting fresh water to less than 1/3 tank for traveling.

I have pulled off my bike rack & bikes figuring that the moment arm out the back would help reduce weight some... I have moved most of the heavy items/tools up to the front bay; and we are still working to eliminate anything else not essential right now to bring the weight down.  I have been running tire pressures to support the weight based on Continental's charts.

I know I should have figured this out prior to departing on the road full time... but I am still climbing up the steep learning curve here on some things.

Looking for assistance/advise on options to get weight under control/ clarification on axle weight limits -20K placard vs 19K Dana spec.

Thanks for any assistance/recommendations (I do not have capability to  trade up to tag axle at this time).