robertmrankin6612

WELL, I made some tests today on my 05 Dynasty.

When cold and running at high idle, my ecm to FDCA wire carries virtually no current. The + &- carry about 0.9 amps.  However, the wires from the FDC to the pintal valve carry about 1.1 amps.  So the FDC looks like it is amplifying current from the + & - wires.

Since my ecm to FDCA wire carries no current I’m thinking it is not a good idea for me to use that wire to drive the pwm motor controller to provide the pcm to the valve.

We know Bill’s works that way, but I don’t know how much current my ecm wire can sustain.

So I guess for now I’m at an impasse without a temp sensor to set the fan to full.

bob

THANK YOU MARK!!!!

GREAD INFO AND POST!!!

This is helping me greatly in figuring out what kinds of tests I'm goint to attempt.

Yet unanswered in my mind is how much current the ECM wire can provide and tolerate......more testing in my mind.

As a side note, perhaps the reason that Bill's rig goes to WAO at 7V. is because his 7-70V. pwm controller goes to zero when the input from the ECM drops below 7V.

Bob R.

Thanks Bill for the 7V. WAO fan speed info on your rig.

I did not have anything connected to the pwm controller's output, I was trying to see if the PWM controller's output would track the input voltage, and I have concluded that it does.

Your 7V. WAO fan speed has me completely rethinking this experiment, however.   

The evolution of fan cooled radiators has gone from direct engine driven fan, to totally variable fan speed based on input from the engine ECM,  presumably in search of better fuel mileage.  It seems that depending on the application and the year of manufacture,  our ISL's fans have had an on/off wax valve; an off, 2 speed on; and a fully variable fan, and there are probably others.  ALL these solutions will cool our motors if properly sized and installed.  I'm not sure exacdtly what my 05 Dynasty has, but it has the SD controller and I can watch the temps on the aladdin and can tell that my thermostat opens at 180, the fan goes to high at 202, and cuts back at 199, and can cycle quite often, or can stay WAO.

Now Happycarz,  Bill, and Mark have me diving down this rabbit hole 🙂 (Too curious a mind and too much time on my hands......?)  Given that happycarz's rig has direct input from the ECM to the pintal valve, that is kinda my goal, BUT I REALLY want to protect my ECM.  I wonder if I'm not really overthinking this and should just try putting a reverse blocking diode and a 1/2 amp fuse in the ECM line and connect it to the pintal valve.  I'll try a test to see if I can find the actual current on the ECM wires before I forge ahead...............

Sorry for the diatribe......

Cheers Bob

Thanks Bill and Mark,

I played with my 7-70 V. motor controller this morning.  And while I didn't have a motor connected while making my measurements, I think I may have answered some of my questions anyway.

First I connected the controller to 12V and was able to measure the output at around 12V., based on the adjustment knob.  Then I dropped the input to 7.5V., and was able to measure the output at around 7.5V.  Then I dropped the input to 6.5V.,  and measured the output at basically 0V., lt would give max fan speed.

I THINK I remembered reading on the forum that the larger ISM or ISX ECM output 12V, 5V, and 0V. to give 3 fan speeds, so not strictly variable.

In my surfing around I saw some pwm motor controllers that operate down to 3V, so if the ECM does output down to 5V. (or lower before 0V.), that controller would yeild a more variable speed than the 7V. min. controller before full on.  Even if the ECM only outputs 5V. before dropping to 0V.,like the larger motors, I'd dtill get a little more variabialty before the fan went to full on at 0V.

I'm going to try to source one of the 3V. min. controllers and try that.

Cheers, Bob

OK guys, looking at this again, I'm thinking that this is a 2 speed fan option, not a variable fan speed like OEM (IF OEM is variable).

It seems to me that using the pwm motor controller sets the minimum speed, but the thermo valve set the max speed.

I was hoping the pwm motor controller would output variable voltage with a variable voltage input, but I don't think it does.  Also, the controller cited above has a minimum input voltage of 7 volts.  So even if the controller could output variable voltage with variable input voltage, it would only do so down to 7 volts input, and I think it takes zero volts to run the fan wide open.  Maybe when the input voltage drops below the specified 7 volts the controller shuts down and the output voltage goes to zero anyway.

Does my thinking sound correct?

Thanks, Bob

AAAAHHHHhhhhhhhhhhh......got it Mark,

Thanks so much for the detailed explanation!!!

Now I can collect the stuff to make my test.  

I'll report back with the results.  It will be awhile, as my FDC is working, but the conversion is now on my to-do list.  IF it works as expected, I'm going to use my offshore boat procedure and leave the new part in service and keep the working old one as backup.

cheers

Bob

Hi Guys,

Well my pursuit has stalled for a bit until I can figure out how to get the plug out of the valve body.  I have tried both pulling and twisting the round plug, but it doesn't seem to want to move.  I don't want to lean TOO HARD on it as it is still currently working and I don't want to bust something.

Does this plug have a history of being stuck as well as a history of being corroded like Mark's?

I'm feeling a little stupid here, does the plug pull out, or does it twist?  Would you ever put a tool on it?

Learning

bob

Hi Mark,

Thanks for the plugs info....I'm going to pursue this a bit and will report back when, and if, I learn anything.

I get that the thermo switch would break the circuit and sent the fan to wide open, I'm kinda just trying to suss out how the ECM signal wouldn't fail to anything other than open.

Bob

Bill R. wrote "The white paper uses the 12V hot wire as the control signal to the motor controller, but I did enough research and testing to convince myself, and to your point, that I could use the ECM voltage instead of the constant 12V.  I have been running my coach this way for nearly 2 years, thousands of miles, through Colorado, over Monarch Pass, other difficult terrain, and I cannot see any distinguishable performance in in engine cooling versus the OEM setup."

This question is directed to Bill R., and anyone else that would like to respond.

I HOPE I am not jinxing myself with this post as the ISL in my 05 Dynasty has been happy for 87,000 miles, BUT, since the  SD FDC is a known problem, I thought I'd ask the question.

Is the thermal switch even necessary?

Since it isn't used in my OEM installation, doesn't the ecm signal tell the fan when to go wide open anyway?  Is the thermal switch redundant?  It isn't in @happycarz OEM either.

If I had access to the proper plug, for $20 I'd be inclined to unplug the SD controller and try the ecm to PCM motor speed controller.  I don't want to unnecessarily to splice into my SD wiring, hence the need for the plug.  IF it worked properly, it would be a CHEAP, EASY fix that can even be done on the road.

Cheers

Bob

I think that's the one.  The plastic cased ones like your picture I'm told are solid state, and not repairable.  The metal can ones are more old school analogue......

Hi Jim,

I don't have one near me, but they are the standard ones that have been supeceded by the plasctic cover ones being currently sold.

Hi Folks,

I just repaired two webasto burner controllers, one from my 05 Dynasty, and one from my buddy's 02 Windsor.

These are the metal can controllers. They are somewhat straight forward to work on, if you are electrically inclined, and have a good solder station or pencil tip 25 watt iron. I have no special knowledge (well, I do have a Ham radio lisc.), but I took mine apart just to look at it, thought the relays looked good, didn't see any burned spots on the board, so I decided to just replace the 6 caps on the board. That was all that I did to get both controllers working again. YMMV

I bought the caps from Mouser, here is what I bought for each controller, all I did was match the capacitance, voltage, size and form:

2 220mf 16V 20% axial; #594-2222-021-35221
2 10mf 63V; #594-222-030-38109
1 470mf 25 VDC; # 667-EEU-FR1E471B
1 100mf 25V: # 667-EEU-TA1E101BJ

The caps cost about the same as the shipping.

Cheers
Bob

WEll, the something simple I was missing was I had the chain upside down, wow, how stupid was that!!!

Its all back together again, thank goodness.  Changing the top bolt to a socket head cap screw, and using clevis pins with cotter pins on the bottom helped a lot.

Looking at the damaged rollers on my galley slide, where the 3 rollers that ride on the guide block when closed, and the 2 top end rollers that ride on the guide block when extended, I have decided from now on to bump the switch to slightly release the tension on the chain in both positions.  When it is time to travel, I will retension the chain to the motor stalled sound.

Cheers

Bob

Hi Folks,

Well..... I'm in the middle of replacing my fwd chain on my 05 Dynasty.  On my chain, the roller that sits at the bottom of the guide block when the slide is in was broken.  The next 2 above were cracked at the axels.  Strangely, to me, the bottom 2 rollers that don't seem to contact anything were also cracked at the axels.  My chain was in good condition, so I opted to replace the rollers using clevis pins.

My challenge, so far, is that I cannot get the chain to feed thru the guide block, either from the top, or bottom.  It seem to jam when the second roller enters the guide block.  The clevis pins clear fine.  I have tied a strong line to the chain, and when feeding from the top stood on the loop in the line, and it still won't feed.

I'm hoping I'm missing something simple that you folks can help me with.  I'm more than a bit frustrated as the same chain came out relatively easily.

Cheers

Bob

2005 Monaco Dynasty Platinum IV $109,900 WA State

Link:

https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/rvs/d/east-wenatchee-slide-monaco-dynasty/7500315142.html

Thanks

Bob

2005 Monaco Dynasty Platinum IV $99,950  East Wenatchee, WA., 2 Owner dry country coach.

https://wenatchee.craigslist.org/rvs/d/east-wenatchee-slide-monaco-dynasty/7402537140.html

Thanks for looking, Bob

I feel like an idiot......

When using the ATS remote to initiate the test function, I press the spring loaded rocker switch down (and the switch returns to the center (off position)) and the system starts the genny, and the genny stops after about 1 minute....so far so good....as per my manual...

However, the genny then keep cycling on and off, and the green light on the remote switch keep blinking......

How do I turn the bloody ATS test function off?

Thanks

Bob

PS: my remote switch only rests in the center position, not in either the upper "enable", or lower "test" positions.

OK Folks...........

Walter nailed it, I'm a dumb A..  ..............

I pressed the 9/0 key after my entry code, and AS YOU ALL KNOW........ the bay doors unlocked.

Thank you all for your great help.

Bob

Thank you all for your responses.......this MAY be starting to make sense to me, particularly Walter's pad 9/0 instruction.  When I bought the coach 4 years ago, I just continued using the prior owner's code.  AND....TA DA...it ended with the 9/0 key, AND, I reused the code on the new keypad. SO, that is what I'm going to try, adding another 9/0 after I enter the master code.  Thanks, I'll report back to close the loop.

My new keypad won't unlock the bay doors.

I just replaced my Essex entry keypad with the plugin replacement KE-171BHC for my 05 Dynasty.  My master code unlocks the entry door, but not the basement bay doors like the old keypad did.  The new keypad will lock the bay doors with the 555 locking code.  Am I missing something?  Is there some additional programming I need to do on the new keypad?