ekgflashnet

My vacuum generator was damaged and I need to find a replacement for my 2005 Dynasty.  It looks exactly like the picture referenced earlier in this post.  It has the high pressure red air-line coming into it and a vacuum hose coming out of the unit connected to the round looking vacuum reservoir.  Does anybody know where I can find a replacement unit?  Could I replace this box with a standard automotive electric vacuum pump and plug the red high pressure air line?

thanks,

steveg 2005 DDIV

Have you tried starting the engine from the rear bay?  This may give you a clue if the problem is in the ignition switch or starter.

steveg 2005 DDIV

Unfortunately, I also recently hit a antelope on my 2005 Dynasty Diamond IV.  Front cab in the area of the right headlight and below was crushed.  Does anybody know what years or models would be compatible with my front cab?  Based upon pictures, looks like a 2004 dynasty had the same front cab.  But, how does one verify this?  Also, anybody have experience with repair shops that would be somewhere around the Albuquerque NM area?  It may be possible to repair rather than replace the front cab as the bulk of fiberglass body is still largely in-tact.

thanks,

steveg 2005 DDIV

thanks to everyone for your feedback.  I can see how the water loop wrapped around a barrel on its side would be nearly impossible to empty with air alone.  Looks like I'm buying RV anti freeze.

steveg 2005 DDIV

To winterize my 2005 Dynasty I used an air compressor to blew out all the cold and hot water lines by opening faucets, toilet valve and washer/dryer lines one at a time.  Do I have to do something additional to winterize the aguahot unit?  Does it have a separate tank that needs to be drained or is blowing out the hot water lines by opening the hot water faucets sufficient?

thanks,

steveg 2005 DDIV

Good idea, but I can confirm that the centroid fuel sender is on the top of the fuel tank of the 2002 ambassador.  But, there no room above the tank to access it (there's only about 2" of space between the top of the tank and the frame).  Also, this would be in the middle of the living room, so I can't imagine there is an access panel from the top.  Looks to me like the only option to access the sender is to drop the tank.  I'm hoping perhaps someone has some direct experience with this type of configuration.

steveg 2005 DDIV

Anybody know where (or how to access) the centroid fuel sendor is on a 2002 ambassador (may be similiar to a knight)?  I assume it is at the top of the fuel tank.  However, on the 2002 ambassador, the fuel tank run lenghtwise in the middle of the RV.  I currently don't see a way to access the top of the tank since it is right in the middle of the coach.

thanks,

steveg 2005 DDIV

During my last trip, I was seeing with increasing frequency an issue with my stop light and check trans light coming on when stopping at a rest stops.  I would normally leave the engine running while taking a brief rest, but when I would pull out to drive once again, both lights would come on when the transmission tried to shift from 1st to 2nd gear.  I found that if I stopped, turned the engine off and restarted the engine, this condition would go away and I could travel without any further issue.  This would not happen all the time, but was increasing in frequency as the days went on.  I found it did not matter if I stopped the engine at the rest stop.  In some instances the situation would repeat itself.  The worst case occurred when I was stopped at a stop light and when I accelerated, the two lights again came on.  However, by accident, I found that if I released the accelerator quickly, the lights turned off and I could resume.

I'm aware that perhaps the transmission power line going directly to the battery could be the culprit, but I earlier in the trip cleaned this and it had no improvement.  So, when I got home, I looked at the transmission faults which you easily access from the shift panel, and it showed several faults.  Most dealing with the output sensor shaft speed and a fault for output speed sensor 1st gear.  According to the trouble shooting guide, I checked the two speed sensors at the front and rear of the transmission.  But, both were in spec.  As I was reading thru the troubleshooting guide, it said to make sure the power wire and ground was properly connected.  I never thought about ground.  While digging around, I found a single blue wire snapped onto a small protrusion on top of one of the hydraulic lines connectors on the transimssion.  I could see that the connection was quite dirty and quite loose.  I  cleaned it up, and re-tightened.  Took the coach on a test drive, and all looked good.  Only time will tell now.

But for those seeing similiar conditions, try looking for a single ground wire connected to the rear of the transmission housing (side closer to front of coach).

stevegg 2005 DDIV

good idea.  Where would one go looking for the fresh air door actuator?  Not sure what it might even look like.  Maybe I can try following a vacuum line.

steveg 2005 DDIV

It is an electric pump that is creating the vacuum.  Here's a link to the pump.

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Excursion-Replaces-53032373AA-53032373AB/dp/B07YY11RSG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqfz6BRD8ARIsAIXQCf1eiQoCaC3NI3ye0G0KEYvwvizbeTJxePsg_o5LM4pn8jPKjso-8CgaAoOsEALw_wcB&hvadid=190515408438&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9030432&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1397923548078850883&hvtargid=kwd-301678704445&hydadcr=26612_9479196&keywords=904-214&qid=1600128083&sr=8-2-spons&tag=googhydr-20&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySzJQODBTSk41VERUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDAxMzUySEszUjFKWTRIMTNEJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NDU4MTcyOE5aV1VWR09NUVdWJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ

The vacuum reservior is https://www.amazon.com/s?k=vacuum+reservoir&crid=15KMV0EFIVM5S&sprefix=vacuum+res%2Caps%2C222&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_10

I'm going to look on my coach and see if mine is similiar.  I might be able to do some comparison testing.

steveg 2005 DDIV

Maybe I should start a new topic, but this seemed closely related.

On my parents 2002 ambassador, the fuel guage only reads 3/4 full even though the tank has been filled with diesel.  This tells me that the centroid fuel level sensor needs to be calibrated.  However, on the abassador, there is no access to the top of the tank.  The tank is located in the middle of the coach with no visible means to access anything on the top of the tank.  Has anybody ever tried to calibrate the sender on this type of unit or a similiar one?  The only approach I saw was to possibly drop the tank, but as I understand it, you need a full tank to set the calibration.  Any suggestions/ides?

thanks,

steveg 2005 DDiv

My parents 2002 Amabassador vacuum generator runs nearly continously when the vent mode is set to off position.  In any other postion, the vacuum generator runs as expected running when you first start the engine and then stops after a running for a bit.  Would seem to indicate we have a vacuum leak, but I don't understand why the vacuum generator runs when the vent mode is set to off (also when MAX air is set as well).  As a test, I removed the hose coming from the vacuum generator (pump) and put my finger on it.  The pump still had the same issue.  It runs for 20-30 seconds, turns off for 10 seconds or so and repeats the process.  This would seem to indicate to me that the problem is likely in the pump itself since everything else was disconnected at this point.  Any opinions or suggestions.  I inspected all the lines running from the pump to/from the vacuum reservior, but could not see any obvious issues.

thanks,

steveg 2005 DDIV

thanks for the confirmation.  That is the same conclusion I have come to as well for my parents ambassador.

steveg 2005 DDIV

On 9/2/2020 at 9:15 PM, Tom Cherry said:

No offense to those that use tracers.  I have had to keep an old ANALOG meter around.  Or use a trouble light.  My advice.  Google and see what the standard is for your tow receptacle or the "Wiring Connector" on the rear.  Monaco used 6 and 7.  You are in a TRANSITION YEAR.  Monaco made a running change and started out the year with maybe a 6 or a 7.  The change as to ADD a "Rear Brake Control" wire to the rear receptacle.  

SO, if you have a 6, odds are you do NOT have a line from a "Brake Controller".  This would be for a trailer or if you have something like a US Gear Tow Brake system.  

NOW....that may not be you case, but you need to know that.  When customers complained about having to run ANOTHER wire and swapping out the 6 for a 7 Pin....Monaco responded.

They ALSO "redid" the up front signals so that you had a REAL Service Brake Signal.  That was needed to SIGNAL or activate whatever control you had.  Problem....THEY BOTCHED IT.  US Gear actually got with them and pulled a MH and showed them WHERE the contact or wires up front were supposed to be hooked up.  So, there was THEN 3 different UP FRONT wiring circuits or versions.  Supposedly they fixed this in 2006.

BUT....back to  your situation...I THINK.

Use your VOM and find the Ground (using the resistance or continuity scale).  Then look at the schematic for your rear connector, 6 or 7.

Next...use a test light or you can use a digital VOM for the Parking Lights.

NOW...maybe all DIGITAL VOM's ain't the same.  I have two HIGH $$ Digital VOM.  They will not, on the 12 VDC setting pick up a FLASHING or a TURN SIGNAL.  SO... I use my OLD analog.  You can use a Test Light.  You KNOW the Ground Pin....so you turn on the RT Signal and keep probing.  Same for the LT Signal.

NOW, you have identified the Ground, Park, LT & RT. 

NOW....again....inconsistency in MONACO....so this is SUPPOSED to be the work it works.  When the ignition is ON (or in RUN), there is a constant 12 VDC signal.  That is for RECHARGING the Toad's battery.  It may be HOT without the ignition....so  you have to experiment.

Now you have Ground, Park, RT Signal, LT Signal and Charging.  If you have 6...then the other one (check to see that there are actually 6 wires in the harness....they sometimes only put in 5.  The Backup Lights was supposedly for that 6th wire.

Graduate to a 7 Pin connector.  The 7th Wire is the SIGNAL or the "TURN ON THE BRAKES" wire from your front controller.  If you do NOT have a controller, then that wire is not terminated up front.  I finally found that wire (I needed it).  I ran a small spool of bell wire from up front (hooked up to that non-terminated end).  Then I took the other end back and did a continuity check.  BINGO....that is my wire.

This may not be your issue, but this is that I understood you were having difficulty with and how I checked mine before I EVER MADE A CONNECTION ON MY UMBILICAL.  Not that I do NOT trust Monaco....God Forbid... LOL

Tom,

Thanks for the info, however, I did not have any problems detecing what wires did what at the tow receptacle.  In my case, one of the wires was the reverse signal.  I had no need for this and wanted to exchange the reverse line for a new brake signal from my brake controller.  However, to do this, I needed to find where the wiring harness was at the front of the RV.  That was the purpose of using a tracer to see if I could locate the harness up front.  I could then disconnect the reverse signal and then tap into the harness with my brake controller signal.  In the end, I was not able to find where the reverse signal was originating from.  So, I ran a new wire from the front of the RV to the tow receptacle at the rear of the RV.  I now have all 6 pins doing what I needed (left turn/brake, right turn/brake, lights, ground, power, brake signal).

(Just as a side note:  I have to use a converter to change from a brake, left turn, right turn configuration to a left turn/brake, right turn/brake configuration.  I found that the brake signal voltage before the converter was lower than expected at 10.6V.  After the converter, the voltage dropped event further to 9.6V.  This was insufficient to light the bulbs in the toad.  Therefore, I had to put in place a relay at the rear of the RV using the brake signal to provide full 12.6V to drive the toad brake lights.  This resolved my problem and now the toad brake lights work as expected.  I was stumped for a while trying to figure out why the coach brake lights would work but not the toad lights even though a test light would come on at the toad.  But when I put a digital VM on the line, that's when I could see I only had 9.6V at the toad bulb)

steveg 2005 DDIV

I have now verified, that as the manual states, that my parents 2002 30' ambassador is not an air over hydraulic braking system.  Attached is the picture of the master brake cylinder and there is no air diaphram associated with the braking system.  This would indicate as the manaul states, that there is no air dryer.  However, I do have the traditional parking brake plunger which is air activated.  I have physically inspected each wheel and can confirm only a hydraulic line is running to each brake.  Therefore, I'm now wondering what this air based parking brake is doing?  Is it perhaps braking the drive line?  I can confirm that it indeed does brake something as when activate/set, the coach will not move.

steveg 2005 DDIV

On my parents amabassador, they do not have a Monaco #2 or Monaco #1 box.  But, it did have a Monaco #3 box.  However, there was nothing in there related to the brake that I could find.  Fortunately, while poking around, I found the brake relay shown on the schematic which was located just outside of the box labelled Monaco #3 in the Front run bay. This brake relay converts the negative signal to a positive signal and is used to power the brake lights.  So, in the end I just needed to tap into the output of the relay and all was set.

thanks for the suggestions,

steveg 2005 DDIV

I tried every combination of the 6 wires I had in the tow receptacle, and had the same problem.  I suspect that these wires are tapped also to also power their corresponding lights at the rear of the RV.  Maybe because the signal is ultimately going thru ground via the filament on the bulb I get a cancelled tone and can not trace the wire.  Am I doing something wrong?  Is there another approach I can use to try to trace the wires from the tow receptacle to the front of the RV?

steveg 2005 DDIV

I'm in the process of installing a brake controller for my parents new to them RV (2002 ambassador).  I need to find a place to tap into the brake signal.  On the brake pedal itself is a 4 wire connector which I thought would be a good place to start.  However, the signal is inverted from what I need.  There is a constant 12v to the connector until the brake is applied.  At that time, the voltage drops to zero.  the other 3 wires are not useful (cruise cancel, and 2 wires labelled return signal on the schematic).  The schematic also shows the existence of a brake relay.  Does anybody know where I might start looking for this brake relay? 

I also thought about tapping into the brake signal on the lines going to the tow receptacle.  However, I can't seem to locate where that may be.  Any ideas where I can look for that wiring which must go to the front of the RV?

Any other suggestions where I may be able to tap into the brake signal?

thanks,

steveg 2005 DDIV

I have a question about using a tracing tool such as the one previously referenced in this thread.  I would like to try to locate where the wires in the tow recepticle are originating from in the front of the coach.  The tool requires I connect the device to two wires.  Should I connect one to the ground and the other to the wire of interest?  I tried this, but the tone generator/probe seemed to cancel itself out.  I tried picking up the signal just a few feet away in a bundle that I knew the wire was in, and the probe could not detect the presence of the wire.  Should maybe I try another pair of wires both in the tow recepticle?   The device comes with two aligator clips - one black, one red.  Does it matter which color is attached to which wire?  I assume not.  I have had success using this device on coaxial cables, but not sure what to do when trying to trace single stranded wires like those in the tow recepticle.

thanks,

steveg 2005 DDIV

---------------------------------------------------------

Mike is right , a tone generator wire tracer is a very handy tool  to find the other end .

 This is the one I bought at Lowes 38 bucks  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Multi-Purpose-Kit-Analog-Test-Meter/50278117

Thanks for the link and everyone else for your responses.  However, I'm still not clear on one last item.

The manual on page 273 does specify the location for the air dryer for those models that are Air over hydraulic brakes.  I previously looked in and around the area of the transmission.  There is no air dryer in the area.  Page 272 also states an air dryer only exists with Air over Hydraulic brake models.  I physically looked at the brakes and they are all hydraulic based.  So, maybe my next question is where are the two air chambers which then operate on the two master brake cylinders?  But, then on page 291, in the section on Air over Hydraulic brakes,  it states that air brakes are not available on 30' models (which is what my parents have).  So, it appears that since no air brakes, therefore no air dryer.

But. their parking brake is the usual plunger type that you lift up and down.  When this is done, you can definitely hear the customary sound of air whoosing thru the valve.  If there is not  an air over hydraulic brake system, what is this plunger doing?  On the front dash panel, there is a light indicating when the air pressure is low, but there is no pressure gauage, just the light.

Seems contraditctory to me that the manual states the 30' model is not air over hydraulics, yet it has what appears to be an air based parking brake. Any insights would be appreciated.

steveg 2005 DDIV 

My parents just recently acquired a 2002 Holiday Rambler 30' diesel pusher.  It has an air suspension system with hydraulic jacks for leveling.  The parking brake is air based as well.  Does this unit have an air dryer?  I took a look, but did not see anything obvious.  if it does have one, where might it be located?    I'm concerned that it may never have been replaced.  On my coach, it is located at the rear of the coach and is quite obvious to see.

thanks,

steveg 2005 DDIV

Today for the first time, I also now am receiving multiple daily digests.  I also noticed that if I pick on a topic (i.e. link) in the daily digest to either respond to that topic or read it further, I get the following error:

The page you are trying to access is not available for your account.  

Here's the URL the digest supplied:

https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/1-monacoers-daily-digest/?do=click&key=8d177b8edfce92ae35f78802417d8ceb&issue=30&src=https://www.monacoers.org/topic/433-digests/

steveg 2005 ddiv

I had a very similiar behavior when I was trying to deal with a nearly dead engine battery (my generator starts off the engine battery).  I put a boost on the generator to get it started.  After several minutes, I was able to start the coach.  But, if I stopped the coach soon afterwards, the generator would also die.  Looked to me like the generator required a min. level of voltage on the battery to keep running.  No exactly the same situation as yours, but the symptons are similiar.

steveg 2005 dynasty

Gary,

I live right down the road from Tom.  I sent him a personal email that I would show him how I accessed the system.  But, I never heard back from him.  Feel free to forward my contact info to Tom if he would like me to come on by.

Steve Gutierrez
stevegutierrez@comcast.net

To create/edit this post, on the web site, I went to the new site discussion forum.  I then selected the button to create a new topic.  Is this what you were asking?