gofastnow
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Posts posted by gofastnow
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My guess it is a 1/8npt thread like McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/4450K1
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On 7/9/2022 at 5:57 PM, NGADawgs said:
On a recent trip to Florida the generator did a code 36 shutdown several times. It was possibly a vapor lock from my subsequent research. It appears to be related to the fuel pump. It is probably original from 2007 so I decided that I would replace it.
I spent several hours the other day trying to find the correct fuel pump for my generator. Many people suggested the Airtex E11020 but I couldn't find one of them available... I also searched for these Onan part numbers, 149-2790 and A047N931 and was able to locate one through a liquidator on Ebay. The picture on the Ebay ad showed the correct (but old) part number as 149-2790. However, upon receiving it today, the one I received did not have that part number on it...instead it had some foil labels applied over the original label so I couldn't read it. It does say "12VDC 3-6 PSI" on the label. In all of my research including on Cummins Quickserve, I can't find the specifications on the PSI for the OEM fuel pump. Does anyone know that? Also, has anyone added an inline fuel pump located near the fuel tank? I have read that some did that to reduce vapor locks.
Thanks in advance for the input!
This is a stretch, but let me tell you about my blocked fuel tank vent hose. Was going on a long trip in middle of summer running both ACs and the gen would shutdown about every 20 minutes and would start back up after a while off. Did not affect the coach engine's running, purred right along. Long story short, discovered fuel tank vent hose had a mud dubbers nest in it. Cleared the nest and fixed. Good luck.
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Thanks for the picture Ray, as Jim says- a picture is worth thousand words.
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Thanks Vito, I know have a better understanding of what I cannot see. I confident I can change it out now without destroying the duct work. Thank you for your response, you guys make keeping up the "old girl" a lot less painful.
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Great Jim! You have answered the mystery. I would not have thought to just cut into the duct and access it from the inside. Thanks for the response.
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David, I guess I should have asked you this
22 minutes ago, gofastnow said:Hello Vito, I have started the process of changing out one of my air conditioners on my 95 signature and I have the center run duct like David. I can partially see what looks like a short duct connecting to the underside of the AC unit and going in to the main duct. I can see it has a screw, as you describe fastening this vertical duct to the AC underside. So my question is, does the screw come out and the short vertical duct stay with the main duct when lifting the old AC unit up or does this short duct stay with the old unit and then transferred to the new unit after removal?
David, could you comment also, since your unit has the same center run ducting as mine does?
Sorry, it is actually Jim that has the center run duct, my bad.
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19 hours ago, vito.a said:
Picture of the outlet on the bottom of a Dometic A/C. Then they should have a sheet metal adapter that screws to the A/C and connects to the duct system.
Hello Vito, I have started the process of changing out one of my air conditioners on my 95 signature and I have the center run duct like David. I can partially see what looks like a short duct connecting to the underside of the AC unit and going in to the main duct. I can see it has a screw, as you describe fastening this vertical duct to the AC underside. So my question is, does the screw come out and the short vertical duct stay with the main duct when lifting the old AC unit up or does this short duct stay with the old unit and then transferred to the new unit after removal?
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Something owners of older Monacos, and my guess other coaches, might also want to be aware of is with the design of the OEM alternator's positive cable post NOT being of press-in design, the positive post to rectifier plate connection can become lose over time. And this can result in high resistance between this positive post and the rectifier plate internal to the alt possibly resulting in a meltdown of the rectifier plate. I experienced this. As happened, my voltmeter indicated no charging was occurring and upon immediate inspection I discovered smoke rising from the alternator. Took alt apart and it was toast inside, fire wasn't far away. New replacement alt had modern press-in design post, so I used a nut on nut fastening of my battery cable to the post and confident of a less troublesome connection. Especially for older coaches, I might suggest a tightness check of your alt's battery post / cable connection, always remember to disconnect batteries before starting a wrench on the alt terminal. If I had checked mine I believe I would still be running with the original alternator.
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Tom, probably not your problem, but I had a similar situation after closing and reopening the shutoff valve at the sink. What I found was the rubber seal had swollen in diameter and had pulled of the stem of the valve in the closed position, thus limiting flow. My MH has Qest valves and the seal is pressed onto the stem. go figure.
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23 hours ago, Hancoman said:
Thanks Scotty, but I do have hot water everywhere else. I am going to have to take off the pep line off and turn on the pump and see if I get water. Then I will know if it’s a blockage in the faucet or further down the line
Tom, probably not your problem, but I had a similar situation after closing and reopening the shutoff valve at the sink. What I found was the rubber seal had swollen in diameter and had pulled of the stem of the valve in the closed position, thus limiting flow. My MH has Qest valves and the seal is pressed onto the stem. go figure.
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So John, do I have this correct, your genset is 120V output, not 240V? My genset is 240V, so I would not have to worry about the Victron going all to L1 only?
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Good information John, I will have to digest this to see if my situation is the same, which at first glance, I believe it is. Thanks for the response, this forum is a level above in tech!
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4 minutes ago, Tim-AZ said:
Your factory wiring will not have the A/Cs going through the inverter. I wired my bedroom A/C through the inverter box so I can run it for an hour or so off of me lithium batteries. I do have the Victron Multiplus II. It will start and run one A/C off the batteries but I did add Micro Air soft starts so I could run both A/Cs off of 30 amps. It may do it but you will have to rewire them through the inverter. IMHO the micro air soft starts are the easier way to go.
Tim
Thanks Tim, replacing my inverter is on my to do list and was hoping to kill two birds with one stone. Have you had any difficulty with breaker tripping on 30 amp after adding the soft starts?
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Any of you guys have experience with Victron Multiplus II with power assist powering 2 hard start AirCond's on 30 amp? Wondering if the added expense of this inverter would solve this age old problem without having to install soft starts in the AC units.
Thanks
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Mike, you say the"plug was so hot......". Really hot connectors, either on the plug or receptacle ends indicates a poor, or high resistance connection, which also equals voltage drop across the connection. This should show up on your incoming power volt meter. I have experienced several park power outlets that have lost there tension producing a high resistance causing my plug to overheat. Good luck.
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On 4/25/2022 at 9:25 AM, Bjohnsonmn said:
Hello fellow owners,
I am in need of some help. While working to remove carpet for our upcoming flooring install, I removed the driver's side console from the wall. While doing this, I found multiple terminated (spade) but not connected wires. Also, My PAC brake hasn't worked since we purchased the unit last fall. I am assuming these two things are connected.
I traced several of the wires back through the wire loom (and have the finger damage to show for it). Now that I have some, but not all, of the wires identified, it is time to start putting it back together and filling in the blanks.
What I know:- I have the wiring schematics for my coach (2000 Windsor 32PB)
- I have the Windsor PAC brake wiring schematic that shows the relay (but doesn't show where those connections come from)
- I have some photos
What I don't know:
- What the On/Off switch in the photo is actually for. Is that the On/Off for the Brake?
- Is the Brake switch a momentary PAC switch? I do have the floor switch as well which seems interconnected.
What I need:
I need photos of the wires connected in someone's console to at least know what should and shouldn't be connected with special emphasis on the switched.
And, can anyone decipher this symbol for me?
Thanks!
It appears to be the "105" relay shown pigtailed above. The circle is the coil.
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Attached is the diagram for a 95 Signature showing the external regulator---may or may not be the same as yours. This dwg was taken from the library. 1995MonacoSig.AlternatorSche.pdfGood luck.
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I also had a situation with my Splendide that I should share. I experienced a similar an occurrence of the drum filling with water on its own. Unfortunately I was hooked to city water with relatively high pressure and I was out of town for several weeks so the overfill went undetected to the point were it leaked out of the washer onto and ruining the tile floor. It turned out to be an internally leaking (slow) cold fill valve that caused a very slow filling of the drum. Lessons learned--don't leave for extended time with water connected (or pump powered up) and install a drain pain that either has a drain hose connected and routed to drain point outside or to leave the pan open at the front where it might be more quickly detected should a leak occur. Sometimes it just hard knocks.
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27 minutes ago, David Pratt said:
I have no desire to travel, visit or participate in the Commerce of California, Oregon or Washington State. I would not attempt in anyway to bring my RV to those states to enjoy their beauty or campgrounds. You do so at your own risk.
I 2nd that.
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On 4/10/2021 at 8:42 AM, engine103 said:
I've had my coach now for a few years and noticed that the expansion tank level is always between cold and hot markings, never changes. This week, I replaced the expansion tank return hose which had been separated from the filler neck and replaced the 13# pressure cap then filled the expansion tank to the full mark. After a couple hours running and a cool down period there was no change is the expansion tank level. So now what?
As far as hot showers and other running water goes, my vintage Aqua Hot AHE-100 series works great although I can't say much about the floor vents. The rear seem weak, the mid-ship works great and the front are hardly noticeable. Thanks, Jim E.
The AV Expert of youtube fame is shown tapping on cold check valves to unstick them. I believe he states it is a common problem on seldom used coaches.
3 minutes ago, gofastnow said:The AV Expert of youtube fame is shown tapping on cold check valves to unstick them. I believe he states it is a common problem on seldom used coaches.
That's the AZ Expert.
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Haven't been there and I'm glad they're further dissuading me to ever visit the state. Won't be on my mind that I should have visited the state that was once on my bucket list.
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Hello Rob, I had the very same problem on my '94 signature about 10 years ago (cat stood on switch is my guess). I got lucky and found a used actuator with the same motor on Ebay. But that was when this Thomson Saginaw version motor was more available. I looked for months before finding this on Ebay and took a gamble it would fit. I actually had the OEM's tag on my actuator and was able to contact the manufacturer directly and they told me it was a custom due to its extra length and at the time could sell me one for, if I remember right, for $1,200.00. Needless to say that was when I started looking on Ebay. If I have to do it again, I would look for a motor rewinding shop to rewind the armature. Or, as last resort ,youtube it and rewind it myself.
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On 11/25/2020 at 10:42 AM, wamcneil said:
Getting the right charging voltages should be pretty easy with any kind of modern configurable charger.
I've got a Magnum MS inverter and a Morningstar MPPT solar charge controller. Both of those have fully customizable setpoints.
The engine alternator is the part I haven't fully figured out yet. In the short term, I might just remove the battery combiners, isolate the chassis from the house batteries and figure it out later. Maybe install a small battery charger to maintain the chassis batteries and then think about adding a DC-DC charger.
Cheers,
Walter
Walter, if your coach has an external alternator regulator you may want to look at Balmar MC-614 Regulator for control of the alternator. I do not have any first hand experience with this regulator but the info looks pretty good. If I were to go this route, I would opt for the alternator temp sensor to try to keep from frying the alternator as those Lithiums will suck down all the current most alternators can produce.
Cheers and good luck
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1 hour ago, stillrunning_60@hotmail.com said:
Thanks Brent I will research the specs on the Vizio
Larry, feel free to ask questions about either tv. I've had the Vizio for about a year and the Sony - I am just discovering.
Compressed Air Systems
in Compressed Air Systems
Posted
MIGHT 'turbo saver' be the same as Turbo Cut-off Valve?
Per the referenced Wabco document by Jdw12345 below;
Turbo Cut-off Valve: A valve located in the inlet port of the air dryer.
It closes the path between the air compressor and the air dryer
purge valve during compressor unload. This prevents a loss of
turbocharger boost pressure during a compressor unload cycle,
thereby maintaining boost pressure for maximum engine
horsepower. Figure 1.21 and Figure 1.22 (used exclusively on the
1200 Plus model).
There is no spring in the turbo cut-off valve assemblies used on U
Series air dryers.
The System Saver E Series air dryers use a special turbo cut-off
valve. Refer to the air dryer parts book PB-8857AS for part number
information