gofastnow

MIGHT 'turbo saver' be the same as Turbo Cut-off Valve? Per the referenced Wabco document by Jdw12345 below; Turbo Cut-off Valve: A valve located in the inlet port of the air dryer. It closes the path between the air compressor and the air dryer purge valve during compressor unload. This prevents a loss of turbocharger boost pressure during a compressor unload cycle, thereby maintaining boost pressure for maximum engine horsepower. Figure 1.21 and Figure 1.22 (used exclusively on the 1200 Plus model). There is no spring in the turbo cut-off valve assemblies used on U Series air dryers. The System Saver E Series air dryers use a special turbo cut-off valve. Refer to the air dryer parts book PB-8857AS for part number information

My guess it is a 1/8npt thread like McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/4450K1

This is a stretch, but let me tell you about my blocked fuel tank vent hose. Was going on a long trip in middle of summer running both ACs and the gen would shutdown about every 20 minutes and would start back up after a while off. Did not affect the coach engine's running, purred right along. Long story short, discovered fuel tank vent hose had a mud dubbers nest in it. Cleared the nest and fixed. Good luck.

Thanks for the picture Ray, as Jim says- a picture is worth thousand words.

Thanks Vito, I know have a better understanding of what I cannot see. I confident I can change it out now without destroying the duct work. Thank you for your response, you guys make keeping up the "old girl" a lot less painful.

Great Jim! You have answered the mystery. I would not have thought to just cut into the duct and access it from the inside. Thanks for the response.

David, I guess I should have asked you this David, could you comment also, since your unit has the same center run ducting as mine does? Sorry, it is actually Jim that has the center run duct, my bad.

Hello Vito, I have started the process of changing out one of my air conditioners on my 95 signature and I have the center run duct like David. I can partially see what looks like a short duct connecting to the underside of the AC unit and going in to the main duct. I can see it has a screw, as you describe fastening this vertical duct to the AC underside. So my question is, does the screw come out and the short vertical duct stay with the main duct when lifting the old AC unit up or does this short duct stay with the old unit and then transferred to the new unit after removal?

Something owners of older Monacos, and my guess other coaches, might also want to be aware of is with the design of the OEM alternator's positive cable post NOT being of press-in design, the positive post to rectifier plate connection can become lose over time. And this can result in high resistance between this positive post and the rectifier plate internal to the alt possibly resulting in a meltdown of the rectifier plate. I experienced this. As happened, my voltmeter indicated no charging was occurring and upon immediate inspection I discovered smoke rising from the alternator. Took alt apart and it was toast inside, fire wasn't far away. New replacement alt had modern press-in design post, so I used a nut on nut fastening of my battery cable to the post and confident of a less troublesome connection. Especially for older coaches, I might suggest a tightness check of your alt's battery post / cable connection, always remember to disconnect batteries before starting a wrench on the alt terminal. If I had checked mine I believe I would still be running with the original alternator.

Tom, probably not your problem, but I had a similar situation after closing and reopening the shutoff valve at the sink. What I found was the rubber seal had swollen in diameter and had pulled of the stem of the valve in the closed position, thus limiting flow. My MH has Qest valves and the seal is pressed onto the stem. go figure.

Tom, probably not your problem, but I had a similar situation after closing and reopening the shutoff valve at the sink. What I found was the rubber seal had swollen in diameter and had pulled of the stem of the valve in the closed position, thus limiting flow. My MH has Qest valves and the seal is pressed onto the stem. go figure.

So John, do I have this correct, your genset is 120V output, not 240V? My genset is 240V, so I would not have to worry about the Victron going all to L1 only?

Good information John, I will have to digest this to see if my situation is the same, which at first glance, I believe it is. Thanks for the response, this forum is a level above in tech!

Thanks Tim, replacing my inverter is on my to do list and was hoping to kill two birds with one stone. Have you had any difficulty with breaker tripping on 30 amp after adding the soft starts?

Any of you guys have experience with Victron Multiplus II with power assist powering 2 hard start AirCond's on 30 amp? Wondering if the added expense of this inverter would solve this age old problem without having to install soft starts in the AC units. Thanks