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McHughes

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Posts posted by McHughes

  1. To cross the border into Canada we were required to download an app from the Canadian Government called "ArrivCan"

    Then create an account and upload photos of documents for vaccination and info about passport.  Then within 72 hours of crossing the border you must submit your travel plans and are given a QR code to show the border agent.  They did pick one member of our party for random covid test.  Had to be done within 72 hours and witnessed by the agency contracted with Canada via  Facetime (video phone).  Pain in the neck due to limited internet access there.

    Coming back into the states was much more problematic.  They confiscated numerous items from the fridge that were not allowed such as chicken, eggs, vegetables and fruits.  They inspected all cargo bays and the pickup for evidence of firewood and said if they found any we would be turned back.  Also inspected under the coach for excessive mud. Again we were told that if it was excessive we would be turned back.  

    Interesting that our traveling companion was simply asked if he had anything to declare.  He said no and they waived him through.

    • Like 1
  2. Did both Liard and Radium Hot Springs, 

    Road conditions on the Top of the World were better than Destruction Bay.  Ferry across the river, Gravel to the Alaska border, a few miles of pavement and then dirt into Chicken.   

    Encountered about 50 miles total of road and bridge construction.  Watson Lake was wet and muddy.  

    Did not see any Sheep.  Took the Denali bus as far as it could go. Not all the way due to a road slide that closed the dirt road about 30 miles in.

  3. Just wanted to drop a note about closing MonacoWatts LLC between May 4 2022 and some time in August 2022.  Wanda and I have an opportunity to take a three month trip to Alaska with family and if we don't do it this year we probably never will.  I apologize if we inconvenienced anyone and will re-open as fast as possible on our return.  

    • Like 2
  4. Hi Folks,  I need to chime in on the angle of the bell crank. 

    The geometry requirement for the watts system is that at some point in its vertical travel the two bars must be parallel. Does not matter if the bell crank is vertical or canted in some fashion.  It also doesn't matter if the parallel happens outside of the normal up/down travel of the suspension.

    If not, the bell crank or a tie rod will fail due to conflict (binding).  In our case the actual angle of the bell crank is determined by the height of the h-frame clamps.  The measurement from the center of the h-frame clamp to the tapered tie rod hole must equal the distance from the center pivot pin of the bell crank to the center of its tapered tie rod hole.  As you angle the bell crank this vertical distance increases or decreases.  You position or adjust the tie rods until those measurements match.

    After producing more than 700 kits we learned, through feedback, that the angled bell crank caused some confusion.  In the last year or so we began marking the bell crank for the proper angle. This seemed to eliminate the questions.  You may also notice that the video on our website, depicting the watts travel, shows the bell crank angled as well.  As do the installation instructions.

    For those making their own watts keep the geometry in mind.  Length or angle of the bell crank doesn't really matter (within reason).  The basic requirement is "parallel at some time in its travel".  Also that the longer the two bars the less rotational movement in the bell crank resulting in less wear and tear.  I should add that the two bars must be the same length. 

    There was some talk in this thread of a camera to view the movement of the watts.  This was done years ago at Henderson's by RoadMaster in comparing the performance of the watts versus their test coach that had two panhard bars.  Movement of the watts was imperceptible during the road tests so I wouldn't waste time doing this again. 

     

    By the way, Roadmaster's engineers stated that, in their opinion, the watts outperformed their dual panhard bar configuration. This with the watts installed at the rear of the h-frame. I suspect the culprit was the 12 rubber suspension bushings each with a minute amount of give or squish.  There were no rubber components in the watts system. Keep in mind that it takes are very, very small amount of movement to create the wandering affect.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. Added a WiFi Myspool "Power Failure Alert monitor".  Plugs into a city power/generator only outlet.  Used mostly dry camping to notify me by text or email that the generator was started by the AGS or, alternatively in a park, when park power goes out.

    Works in conjunction with the wireless thermostat that notifies me when the internal temp matches the AGS high temp generator start setting.

    Always worried when leaving the dog alone in the summer heat that AC power is on for the air conditioners.

    myspool_power.jpg

  6. I was curious so I did some testing.  Ran the engine without the alternator and sure enough the dash RPM gauge worked just fine.  That signal from the alternator must be used for something else.  Perhaps an indicator or to the ECM.  If I only had a wiring diagram.

  7. Thanks for the feedback.   Rebuilding this unit is questionable. Highly corroded from road salts.  Contemplating doing it myself though.  I had rebuilt dozens in my shop over an 11 year period.

    Currently the Leece-Nevell sensor port is simply a wire connection to the chassis batteries. As for the tach there is a wire connected to the tach terminal on the alternator. I believe it taps onto one leg of the diode trio.

    The Delco 28SI also has a sensor port and a tach port.  According to the docs the sensor port functions to increase voltage based on cable voltage loss at the battery. Same as the Leece-Nevell was doing.  As for the Delco tach signal the docs say "Frequency = Alternator RPM/10" . Don't know if it is the same as the Leece-Nevell. I suspect it is somewhat standardized.

    This coach never had to the old style 3 terminal battery isolator which is what the duvac was to address.

    By the way, this coach used to have a Big Boy and Bird which was replaced by a LI-BIM almost two years ago. 

  8. Installed my Cricket Wireless 100GB card.  Went online to activate which went just fine.  It continued and began setting up an account.  Took the username and then said it sent a text with my password to my new Cricket phone number.  The Roadlink doesn't do text so I called tech support. After about an hour the tech told me that their is no way to set the password for me and that I must go to a Cricket store.  So off I went.  After about 30 minutes with the store I was told they cannot set a password for me or tell me what the password is.  Suggested I put the SIM in my phone to get the text message (guess I should have thought of that).  Phone takes a Nano SIM.  Roadlink takes a normal size SIM.  Purchased a SIM adapter kit from Amazon and cut the SIM down to Nano size.  Installed in phone and got the text with the temporary password.  Then had to glue the Nano SIM into the adapter and put it back in the Roadlink (goes in upside down).  Got LTE access denied a couple of times but power cycling seemed to fix it.  Now works and I have access via the iPhone app and web to pay the bill each month. Somewhat frustrating but better than the AT&T 22GB for $90 I paid last year (which I had to renew three times due to working remotely).

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