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PeterSchweizer

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Posts posted by PeterSchweizer

  1. If you have a Cummins engine contact the. With your engine serial #. Ther typically several small hoses around the engine that should be replaced as well. The hoses from engine to Radiator n back to engine  are typically supplied by coach manufacturers, so.e ca.e be standard industry hoses and or random lengths of stock hose lengths. Just make sure they are coolant hoses not fuel. Also the marine industry suppliers can have them as well.

    • Like 1
  2. First Get engine serial number off engine contact Cummins n get info on it manufacture date, HP etc. It may have been changed by previous owners.

    Fix exhaust leak, varify boos pressure gauge is correct, by installing a in line "T" n a manual gauge in eng compartment with a longer line so it can be temporarily located inside coach so someone call look at it on the rode to verify pressure. 

    If you have to replace exhaust manifold if it's cracked or you break off a bolt? Soake all bolts for several days several times per day with penetrating oil "PB BLASTER" before attempting to lossen n retighten (Torgue) them

    .  Might as well replace turbo too, verify turbo part # from Cummins per your installedengine's serial number. 

    Turbos Direct is a good source for a factory Holset rebuilt turbo.

    Keep site updated on your progress n solution.

    • Like 1
  3. Tom:  When you complete this work could you share the size of the 2 windows and what the cost was and if you where happy with their work.   Will they remove and reseal your existing glass panes or replace them with new glass?

     

    Thanks, Peter

    On 12/19/2023 at 9:23 AM, Ukulelemark said:

    Hey Tom, Dual Pane solutions in Mesa, AZ. We have an appointment tomorrow morning   Presently on the road from Florida. They have great customer service and their pricing is very reasonable. 
    Mark 

     

    MARK  When you complete this work could you share the size of the 2 windows and what the cost was and if you where happy with their work.   Will they remove and reseal your existing glass panes or replace them with new glass?

  4. 22 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

    How about a tie-wrap with the ratchet tab broken (sort of a mini strap wrench)?  Maybe hold the tie-wrap strap wrench in place with hemostats.  Once it's started where it won't decompress release the hemostat, pull the "strap wrench" out and push it (or tap it) the rest of the way in. 

    Bottom line an automotive machine shop will make it look easy, but . . . . once it's in how does it come out?

    - bob

     

    He will find out soon enough if it holds  as a turbo   can spin at 100,00 RPM, - Boom! Tolerances are key to staying together.

  5. I would restart with the 2 RV glass manufactures who specialize in Providing RV glass:

    Custom Glass Solutions plant is in  Ohio and   Coach Glass -RV Glass solutions is the installations side of their business 

     Ask them for a qualified RV glass installer in your area - most are mobile services. Please don't use someone who is not familiar with RV glass installs.  RVs age different Beasts from autos and trucks, as the front fiberglass cap can flex/twist and pop out windshields, even qualified persons have problems with certain RVs as they had and have issues and may need some " modifications to the opening to limit flex. most are RV mfg., and model specific

    The 2 gloss manufactures have customer service reps that have independent installers all over the USA and those reps and installers will know the industry suppliers and should be able to get your windshield gasket, *** don't forget to replace the rain gutter seal if yours has or had one  one for the top of the seal as well

  6. AIR DUMP VALVES. On my 04 Cayman 34 ft, when I press the air dump switch on the drivers left side console it releases air (slowly) from the 4 air bags thru the 2 rear valves and 1 in the front Generator compartment on the firewall.   I  typically do this per the instructions, for my coach, for putting out slides, First, extend slides, then  depress air dump and brake peddle to bleed air off the coach.  It  lowers, slowly as it takes several minutes +- 10 for this to bleed off. then you  set leveling jacks ( this is how Monaco instructions for my coach with manual 3 point leveling system.  also follow those plastic lines and fittings to check with soapy water if your system bleeds down.  Note on the side of each valve is a small bleed port with a screen make sure it clean so the bleed off is not restricted.

    just another item to schedule on your " routine maintenance" items on theses Beasts!

     

     Happy Trails!

    • Like 1
  7. 4 hours ago, TomV48 said:

    Hey Gary   Where are you located or better what shop are you in.  And by all means let us know how it goes with them. 

     We will be following behind you up the 5 in about 2 1/2 weeks and will be running up to Keizer, OR Elks before we go toward the beach.

    May be stopping off in either Grants Pass, Coburg or Eugene for some maintenance work.   I figure it was made in Coburg so that area ought to have the places to fix her. 

     

    Contact jim at source engineering  in Oregon he worked for monaco so he has lots of contacts if they don't do what you need done.

  8. I was emailing  with Jim at source engineering about my overheating issue and mentioned I saw your issue posted today. 

     

     You should contact him today.

    He commented that:

    #1- the source fan should be direct drive not on an clutch or thermostatic fan.

    #2 make sure when the fan was installed with the blades centered in the shroud edge- top to bottom and left to right

     

    One more thing JIM  mentioned to check is to

    make sure the source fan is not installed backwards!  it should be pushing air to the outside of the rear radiator

    • Like 1
  9. The system runs on the high side in excess of 225 lbs so you want t o have the system tested in that range best with nitrogen as it is less expensive then testing with Freon and its a dryed air.  On my Cayman EvansParts.PNG.461f1e3c1e95735cd17890df0373c26b.PNGEvanswiringschematic28465x64029.jpg.4a19d8ed51761146cef0a70f97285504.jpg the low and high switches where in the front cap the low was on the dryer attached my data plate and some generic RV cab a/c stuff 

    Cab AC Mfg Placard.jpg

    Dash A_C Charge Amount 2003 Knight_ - AC, Heating, and Cooling - Bill D’s Monacoers.pdf

  10. First off you have to make sure you have the correct amount, weight or ounces, of refrigerant in the system. The pressures will neve be right if you just keep adding refrigerant , especially every year without fixing the leak source.  that will also damage the system. The amount of refrigerant is listed on a label on the Ft dash A/c unit evaporator cover inside the front cap (generator area)  passenger side. this refrigerant amount typically in oz's will vary per coach length / length of refringent lines. 

    Pump down system with vacuum pump (or have a professional do it?) check for loss of vacuum over an hour +.  if ok change dryer and charge system with Nitrogen n check for leaks  its a loooong system so lots to check. I usually test it with nitrogen at 200 lbs if it holds for over an hour it usually good to go and then add the proper weight oz's of refrigerant. Note if the system has been closed, NO bokken lines,then you may not have to add any oil note the amount of compressor oils is a set amount per they system you have and size of rig.  

    once you have the basics done then run the system and see if any other issues exist. these RV systems are big and tricky I find its not as simple as an autos A/C system and the pressures are way different and takes patience.

    Keep COOL!

  11. 45 minutes ago, MurrayD said:

    Peter, when my alternator gave out on me I continued driving as the batteries went down. By the time I reached the next city voltage was under 9 volts and the transmission would not shift out of 6th gear. Is it possible your voltage is low?

    VOLTAGE IS GOOD THANKS

    26 minutes ago, TW Racing said:

    Could be Transmission fluid leaked into the wiring harness connection causing a short. We had that happen a few weeks ago in Az and then it would not go into gear at all and no codes could be found. Hopefully that’s all it is as now we are told we need a new transmission, the tech found metal shavings in the pan.

    wishing you the best of luck.

     

    Just now, PeterSchweizer said:

    will clean connectors in AM  thanks

     

     

    Just now, PeterSchweizer said:

    VOLTAGE IS GOOD THANKS

     

     

  12. 2004 Monaco Cayman 34pdd 5.9 engine. While traveling today on Interstate 15 NB N of Ogden UT at about 68 MPH in Economy mode there was a downshift into 4th and it would never go back to 5th gear. NO Check Trans light or other service lights on,  Tried manually shifting up n down or pressing D to go back intro D 5 or Economy MODE on n off several times (NOTE:MODE light does go on n off as it should when cycling into Economy mode) .  Basically cycling it thru all the shifts no help. stopped repeated same, nothing, again turned coach off for several minuets no help.  Fluid level and temperatures normal. Had to drive the last 40 miles to Lava Hot Springs in 4th gear at 55 MPH.  

    So any Suggestions? None of my coaches manuals Monaco or Allison discuss how or if possible to retrieve any codes- just says call Allision customer service, which I will do in the AM.

     Also anyone know of any good Coach  trans service  shops in Pocatello ID?

  13. Just an FYI a

    looks like most of your electrical connections are corroded, so you may want t o go thru all your connectors and grounds and clean them up and seal them  so you can avoid lots of  issues in the future. And yes there are many!  One step at a time - Pay me now of or pay me latter

  14. 2004 Monaco Cayman 34 ft w/ R4R Chassis.

    Brakes failed driving into Emission test facility YAKES!!! - used Emergency air Parking brake to stop, get the test (Passed) and drive across the street to investigate the issue further -THAT WAS EXCITING!  What I found was that the threaded rod on the brake pedal linkage  that goes thru the firewall into the hydro - Max booster had come undone at the pedal.  the rod threads into a arm at least 1 1/2 inches into the arm at the pedal/ brake switch and has a jamb nut as well, to supposedly, prevent it from unscrewing.  Evidently over the past 5 years and 35,000 plus miles I have owned this fine coach it worked its way out,  SUGGEST YOU ALL CHECK YOUR CONNECTIONS AS WELL.   I Reinstalled it using a thread lock sealant and added a lock washer.

    Unfortunately I did not get a pic of  the pedal linkage nor the leak at the bottom of the matting surfaces of the master cylinder (HydroMaxbrakeBooster.thumb.jpg.c4f966823e290620be6116025e9782f0.jpgthe hose is hiding it), however the rear brake reservoir area was very low and the front was full. Filled it up cleaned area static tested it and drove a bit and it is still slowly leaking when you depress the pedal.

    SUGGESTIONS :?   I assume, as it is 19 yrs old and 112,000 miles, the complete Hydro-Max Booster, Emergency elect pump and Master cylinder assembly should be rebuilt ? OR replaced w/ new.  However i assume its just the Master Cylinder since its just the brake fluid that leaking and not the power steering fluid section ?

    What is a good source for the parts or shop for rebuilding?

    I am in the Phoenix, AZ area

     

    THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOU ASSISTANCE

    Peter

     

     Also now I have a leak coming from the mating surfaces HydroMaxbrakeBooster.thumb.jpg.c4f966823e290620be6116025e9782f0.jpgMasterCylindernbrakeboosterassy.thumb.jpg.921ff6f1557659773fc4dfe3bc3c1ccd.jpgbetween the Hydro-Max brake Booster and the master Cylinder

  15. Had great service, warranty and price for my 2004 Cummins 300HP ISB  turbo  Got it thru Trubochargersdirect.com it was a OEM Holset Factory Rebuilt turbo

    Turbochargers Direct <team@turbochargersdirect.com>

    Mon, Nov 8, 2021, 3:16 PM
     
     
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    Turbochargers Direct  

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