Chad A

I just did this “fix” by wiring the fuel pump to a switch in the dash. I manually turn the fuel pump on and then start the generator. Runs like a top. No ags with this though. But for how rarely I used it, worth the saving of $800

It could be a lot of things. Check the full code. 
 

Mine did this sort of thing and the computer board was bad. It kept shutting off the fuel pump. I jumped the fuel pump and problem solved. 

NWRVSupply might have them. They have a bunch of HWH parts. 

I will echo what Gary said. 
 

Mine runs on RCA connectors. I took an old little tv with me and plugged it in up front and then ran the different RCA outputs to the tv to make sure they worked on that end.   
 

Once I had them labeled then I figured out which cables went to what monitor. 

I did a search and only found two instances of Blacktech bags. 
 

My question is, anybody use these and have any long term reviews of them? They are half the cost of other bags and have great reviews on Amazon. 
 

Looking to my knowledgeable crew here to help me make a decision. Going to need to replace all 10 within the next year 

Thanks

For now, I think I will run a simple switch from the front run bay off of the fuse I am currently using up to the armrest drivers side. 
 

Then run a hit from that through the dash and to the pump. 
 

Should be about $20 and and an hour or so of time. 
 

So, I went for it and pulled the connectors apart. I don’t know how I will ever get them back together but that is another worry for another day. 
 

I grounded the ground wire to a bolt on the cover. I then ran the hot to the run bay and plugged it into a spare fuse spot. Plugged in a 5 amp fuse and the fuel pump started humming along. 
 

I fired it up and turned on the heat pumps and lights. It has been running for an hour and a half with no issues that I can tell. Must be the board. 
 

Now I need to decide if I replace the board and figure out a way to hook it back up to the fuel pump or if I rig up a permanent switch inside the cabin and turn it on manually. 
 

Board is more expensive but done right, manually switching the fuel pump is way cheaper but not factory and can’t start the generator from outside or the bedroom. 
 

Decisions decisions. 
 

Thank you for all the help. 

Okay. I guess I will have to stay diligent. 
 

I am going to make pigtails and attach to both ends. Hopefully is will help both this time and down the road. 
 

Thanks for the help!

Is there an access door that I am missing? This seems to be way to difficult to access. 

Need some more help. The wires are not long enough for me to reach them. I can pull them apart but no way am I getting them back together. Suggestions?

Thank you for the help!!  Found the pump and am looking at the wires. Need to be a contortionist to see anything let alone get to it. 
 

I am used to working with a little more room in my old Willys jeeps!!

Can I take a battery and hook up both positive and negative from the pump to a regular battery with a switch on the positive to see if this is my issue? Should not be a problem running for a couple hours like this no?

Is this all I need to do in order to make it run? Hit the run button after I connect power to the fuel pump? It will run until I cut power to the fuel pump then?

Sorry for all the questions. Don’t want to make problems worse. 

I have searched and read many threads on the control board malfunctions and bypassing it to get power to the fuel pump. 
 

What I cannot find, but thought I had read, was how to actually bypass the control board. 
 

Can someone walk me through the process of this bypass please and thank you. I need the generator to run and want to make sure that it is the control board before I buy a replacement. 
 

And, if the bypass works I might just use it like this if there is no reason why not too. 

I had the same thing in my 2003 signature. Was associated with the entry keypad. Would get water in the keypad and the alarm would sound. Keypad didn’t work anyway so they disconnected it. 

It looks like someone sprayed flex seal on the seams. That is what the black stuff looks like to me. 

I will offer my .02. I had similar looking stuff INSIDE of my Coach on a counter by the wall. Turned out I had a leak in the upper beltline and this was what was coming out. Got the leak fixed and have never seen it again. Mine was much less prominent than what you see but it looks very similar. Kinda oily sticky stuff?

Premier RV in Junction City Oregon did a great job on my front end when I hit a tree that fell in front of me during a windstorm. 

I am following this closely. I have the same coach and just recently had a Pto leak. I also think my transmission runs to hot at the same temperatures yours does. 

Jeff, you bring up a good point as I reread my post. 
 

Does the fitting need to be tight into the Pto box and then the nut also tight? How would you make the threaded fitting tight as I don’t know how it could move because of the stiff hydraulic hose attached to it?

Does the o ring or gasket seal the threads on the fitting?

I tightened the nut. 

Thank you for the pic Bob. I am still leaking, although considerably less. What size is the gasket? Is it an o ring or a special gasket?

Thanks in advance. 

Update. 
 

Got under there with a wrench. The fitting was finger tight. I turned it about a half of a turn and it is snug. I suspect the o ring blew out of it but I am going to see if tightening it up worked. 
 

I will detail progress later this week. 

I am 100% sure it is leaking from around that fitting as I wiped it all clean and then watched it as it started weeping again. 
 

If I have to take that fitting off what can I expect as far as fluid coming out?

Thank you 

I have a leak on the PTO bottom fitting. It is leaking a lot. Makes me think it is a seal as it went from no very minor leak to a constant pour. 
 

What do I need to do to fix this? How much hydraulic fluid am I going to spill out of the system? Anything else I should know before I get into this and make a huge mess?

Top picture is of Pto and bottom hose with leak. 
Bottom picture is of the actual leak by the fitting. 
 

Thanks in advance to the most knowledgeable crew around. 

The top picture is upside down, sorry. 

Mine kept doing this and I started carrying a big magnet, the one you use to pick up nails on the ground, around with me. 
 

This was a temporary fix until I could get home and ditched it for a residential fridge.  
 

When I swapped fridges I could see where the exhaust from the Norcold was burning the wood in the Coach. 
 

I felt very relieved to get that thing out of there. I have a fridge that works 1000 times better, holds more groceries and is a million times safer. 
 

As stated, figure out why it tripped. I knew mine was from getting hot and I had to turn it off every time I left the coach as I was afraid of it burning to the ground. 
 

If it was just a glitch and it does not happen again then maybe it was just that. I couldn’t sleep at night because of the dang thing though.