Scott and Colleen Miller

3 hours ago, Keith H. said:

I just wanted to take this opportunity th say THANKS to the Administrators and Moderators or Monacoers. It has taught me so much and I have merely scratched the surface. I still have so much to learn but its obvious, you guys have forgotten more than I will ever know!!

I echo that! Thanks for helping out the green horn!

On 4/4/2024 at 7:50 PM, Scott and Colleen Miller said:

Thanks for the help anyway!

Thanks for trying my friend!

I will take pics tomorrow (getting dark) and send them. Sure appreciate the help Steve!

Sorry for the delayed response. Here is the schematic. Yep, not sure what the guy means by a tension screw. Right on with the tension spring Steve.  I looked at some videos on topper replacement. I guess I have to pull the spring out and have a look to be able to ask intelligent questions. Will get back to you!

thx for the help again!

James

38 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Sorry, I don't know.

I adjust my topper tension with the roll tube pinned, then just change the distance my slide is from the wall before reinstalling the tube.

Thanks for the help anyway!

Thanks for trying my friend!

32 minutes ago, Steve P said:

I've had my toppers apart multiple times for cleaning and replaced the tension spring in one of them.  I don't recall a tension screw... I did have to replace an end cap that the teeth had bent and worn (the teeth engaging the roller tube gear).  Do you have a diagram of yours to help us provide further insight?

I will take pics tomorrow (getting dark) and send them. Sure appreciate the help Steve!

I have a 2004 HR Endeavor 40PRT. Recently bought new topper fabric for my driver side slide out. I believe the C of Col slide mechanism is the SOKIII. Had someone put it on and woke up to the fabric flopping two weeks later. I was told after the fact the tension screw is stripped. I have searched to find videos of how to fix this.

 Any insights would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you for the help!

James Miller here.

Tried to lower my jacks. No go. Noticed my battery cabinet breaker popped. 
1. Looked for all loose wires

2. Replace the beaker

3. Replaced the solenoid at the Jack motor assembly.

Mechanic buddy said it must be the motor. Searched REV, Lippert/Power Gear, and called recommended part yards. No luck this far. 

Any and all help appreciated.

Thank you,

Scott
 

All,

I am in and out of active duty deployments and might not have followed up at some point to thank all of you who do the heavy lifting on the site. If I’m that guy, SORRY! I have short bursts of time and can get distracted very easily. So, thank you all if I screw up and go dark and forget! 

Solved the problem. Helped me isolate the issue.

Thank you Harvey!

James

On 10/17/2022 at 11:38 PM, Harvey Babb said:

Disconnect the cable at the pump motor and try to lower.

If the fuse doesn't blow then you have a seized or shorted pump motor.

 

Thank you. Will do!

Dear Community,

I have a 2004 HR Endeavor 40PRT. I recently had the transmission rebuilt by Allison. Picked it up from the garage, went camping and tried to lover the leveling jacks. “Nothing.” Discovered that the battery box 120A fuse keeps popping when I try to lower my jacks. I replaced the battery box wall mounted 120A fuse, looked everywhere for loose connections, and checked all fuses I can think of. 

Sure appreciate any and all help!

Thank you,

James Miller

Got them ordered and on! Thank you!

On 2/1/2021 at 1:37 PM, Paul Busch said:

I replaced mine for 150 with new ones with bulbs. I had a hard time cleaning up the old ones

2005 Monaco

👍

On 2/20/2021 at 3:57 PM, sailingmyway said:

With the somewhat low cost of replacing the whole assembly I just put new ones in that are much more modern  looking. 

Thank you!

On 2/2/2021 at 2:16 PM, Scotty Hutto said:

What @DavidL said above.  I originally sanded, polished, and coated the outside of my headlights and they looked great until moisture got in them an the insides got dirty...  I took them out and disassembled them, but it's a fair amount of work and for me the sealant was messy... so I chunked the old headlights and bought shiny new ones...  I went with the OEM 2000 Buick Century fixtures from GM rather than the TYCO knock-offs that Monaco used.  (As a side note I strongly prefer to fix things to replacing them, but this was one instance I decided it just wasn't worth the time...)

Will do. New ones on the way

On 2/2/2021 at 2:16 PM, Scotty Hutto said:

What @DavidL said above.  I originally sanded, polished, and coated the outside of my headlights and they looked great until moisture got in them an the insides got dirty...  I took them out and disassembled them, but it's a fair amount of work and for me the sealant was messy... so I chunked the old headlights and bought shiny new ones...  I went with the OEM 2000 Buick Century fixtures from GM rather than the TYCO knock-offs that Monaco used.  (As a side note I strongly prefer to fix things to replacing them, but this was one instance I decided it just wasn't worth the time...)

Good insights! Thank you

On 2/1/2021 at 1:45 PM, DavidL said:

If the inside needs polishing (unlikely) then it's technically possible to remove the lenses on many.  Requires the headlamp to be stripped and put in an oven @ 175F for 12 minutes to loosen the sealant.  But...the inside typically isn't smooth.  It may have reflectors to aim the light.  And you can't polish that.  But it's more likely that it's just dirty.  You can try to wash the housing out.  Use distilled water to avoid water spots.

When you get tired of doing that, then upgrade to some aftermarket projector style housings with new LED bulbs 😉

Ha! Right. Ordered the new ones. Thank you!

1 hour ago, wamcneil said:

No, there is not because it would not be code compliant.
The motorhome has two hot conductors, one neutral conductor and one ground wire. 
Your adapter has two hot conductors and a ground wire. So you’re sending neutral current down the ground wire in your adapter and then through the ground wires in your house. 
These days, the ground wire isn’t allowed to carry load currents. Using the ground wire for current is potentially unsafe. 
Cheers

Walter

Thank you Walter!

Thank you very much for the insight! Super grateful!!!

7 hours ago, Scott and Colleen Miller said:

Sorry for such a late reply. I’m active duty and am in and out consistently. Honestly not sure whom I’ve replied too at this point. Thank you for the detailed response. Will get someone here to set this up properly! Thank you again Sir for the help!!

Here are the pictures of the “pig tail” we made. What do you think?

8 minutes ago, 6Wheels said:

Dryer plug is 240 VAC - RV is 120 VAC and is NOT compatible.

You are better off installing a dedicated breaker and the correct outlet for your coach.  If you are not competent and confident do not attempt this yourself.  The attachment should guide you through the process.  In my case I had to add a sub-panel to allow enough space to add the circuits.  I am an electrician and don't recommend this to an amateur due to code and safety reasons.

Wiring for 50 Amps.pdf 45.83 kB · 0 downloads

Super appreciate the help. I will go get the right person to help me. Again, thank you for the help and response!!!!

Got it! Thank you again for the help! Getting an electrician to come out and install. Super appreciate the help!!

On 2/6/2021 at 2:52 PM, rpasetto said:

James, The plug and outlet pictures you posted are devices designed to connect 240v AC, not 120v AC as a 30amp RV plug and outlet.  When wired in this way, there's 240vAC between each of the angled slots in the outlet.  A 30 amp RV plug may look sort-of like the dryer plug, is made to plug into a 30 amp 120v RV outlet; voltage between the two angled slots should be 120vAC.  This is why we've been asking you to measure voltage between the two angled slots.

Your 2004 Endeavor is equipped with a 50amp plug for a 50 amp outlet which when used for an RV, supplies two separate 50 amp 120v 'legs'.  Depending on how you adapted the 240vAC plug on your coach to the 240vAC dryer plug in your house there may be some resultant damage or not. 

Do not plug in until you have a properly wired 50amp receptacle or an RV 50 amp to 30 amp adapter.   Also heed Tom's advice about your auto transfer switch and, if it is the recalled unit, obtain a safe replacement.   Once you are able to safely plug in to proper power, you can then test your appliances to be sure they're OK.  

The diagram below shows the voltage readings you should expect with that 50 amp outlet.  For a coach, the 120vAC readings, labelled "Hot1" and "Hot2" represent the Leg1 and Leg2 referred to earlier.  

Sorry for such a late reply. I’m active duty and am in and out consistently. Honestly not sure whom I’ve replied too at this point. Thank you for the detailed response. Will get someone here to set this up properly! Thank you again Sir for the help!!

Sorry for such a late reply. I’m active duty and have been out of pocket for awhile. Thank you for the help.

question: Is there a product/adapter that I can use to plug into my dryer plug and then plug my coach into already set up? A “pig tail” already set up for this? 
 

thank you again Sir.

James

I was born and raised in So. Cal. Loved growing up where I could surf in San Clemente, head over the Ortega highway and go through the mountains to ride dirt bikes in the Mojave. They say there is no place like home... Who-ever they is... their are right. There is no place like Calif....I would never even think about going back to live anywhere in Ca. All my friends there are packing up and heading to Az. or Utah. I’m convinced that the over-all philosophy is to run as many people out of the state as possible, so the elitists can have free run. Sad!

4 minutes ago, throgmartin said:

James:

The 93 inch strap is for pull down patio awnings. The window awnings can vary in size. Some are 27 " and some are 29 ". It all depends on where they mounted the strap holder on the side of your bus. If you give Ingrid ( my wife ) at Stone Vos Awnings a call she can walk you through the process of how to measure correctly. ( Her phone number is 352-942-0224 ). She can also make custom straps for you. Tell her you would like the double loop straps. These straps have two loops - The first loop allows the window awning to be deployed and latched down in a normal position ( with the awning arms parallel to the ground ). The second loop allows the window awning to be deployed at a higher angle to allow more sunlight in.

All of the straps made my Stone Vos are sewn with lifetime thread and they use a high grade UV protected polyester strap. Installing them is a piece of cake. Simply take a 3/8 " drill bit and drill out some of the channel on the roller tube ( do not drill through the tube ). Next slide the polyrod sewn into the strap into the roller tube groove, position it in the center of the tube and you are done.

Hope this helps.

Awesome! Will call now. Super grateful and appreciate the help. Thank you!

On 11/30/2020 at 1:13 PM, throgmartin said:

You could have Zip Dee's. If you can post a picture I can tell you who they were made by.

Dear Awning Dr.😎

James Miller here. I have a 2004 HR 40PRT. All window awnings do not have the pull strap. They are carefree awnings out of Colorado. I went to their website and they have 27” and 93” straps. I would think the 27” is sufficient. Please lend your advice.

Thank you,

James

2 hours ago, Dave Pumphrey said:

If we had a pic of how the dryer cord is connected to the 50 amp outlet, early on, it would have been cler what we were dealing with. It would still be nice to see it.

It should have one of the hot legs from the cord going to both hot terminals on the outlet, & the ground going to both the neutral & ground terminals. The other hot leg on the cord would not be used. 

If the ground wire in the cord is less gauge that the hot wire, that would be the limiting factor in how much can be drawn. If both are 10 gauge, it would be 30 Amps max.

Male and female ends of the pig tail. Reconfiguring it. It only had a ground...no neutral. The good news is everything in the RV is good, but the inverter board for the fridge is shot. I’m getting an RV elect. to install a legit plug in box at the house next week. Oh, never too much caffeine. It keeps me in the game on deployments! 😎

5 minutes ago, 6Wheels said:

 good write-up is here: 30-Amp and 50-Amp RV Service: 7 Things You Need to Know | etrailer.com

So awesome. Thank you. 

8 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

Using a ground for a neutral can cause a fire in your home.
Ground conductors are not sized to carry the current rating of the breaker.

Ground conductors are only there to trip the breaker in the event of a fault, and using one for a neutral can overheat it and set your home on fire. .
If you're not familiar with electrical codes and wiring, PLEASE hire a qualified electrician to do this install.

Awesome! Thank you. Going to reconfigure with a neutral.

Just now, Scott and Colleen Miller said:

Awesome! Thank you. Going to reconfigure with a neutral.

46 minutes ago, Scott and Colleen Miller said:

Tom, would you recommend this TS? Or the bottom one?

5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

At the risk of getting bombarded....using a THREE wire 240 VAC Dryer Receptacle, from a practical standpoint WILL WORK.  If you purchase a NEW dryer, it will, typically if if has a line cord set, come with a 4 wire connection.

Back to NEC Basics. The MAIN panel inside the home or the Service Panel (where the breakers are located) has or SHOULD have a BONDED GROUND TO NEUTRAL.  That is the ONLY location WHERE that is required. If you have a THREE wire Dryer Plug, the third wire is GROUND. GOD FORBID that anyone would also tell you that there is supposed to be ZERO resistance between GROUND and NEUTRAL on a branch circuit.

Electricians and also us "tinkerers" have been using a jumper between the GROUND and the Neutral on dryer circuits for years. As LONG as the main panel has a bonded Ground to Neutral, then the dryer will work the same...

If you check the NEC, I think it was 1999 when the FOUR wire service was required. NEW Construction requires a 4 wire service.  Replacement of an EXISTING CIRCUIT does not.  Common sense says if the wire is bad and you have to pull a NEW service....make it 4.

BUT, if you have an existing THREE wire circuit, then the approved method is to do the following.

L1 and L2 are to go to their respective HOT locations on the Breaker. The Neutral may or may NOT be connected to Neutral in the Main Panel. The main panel MUST have a bonded or at least a number 4 jumper between Ground and Neutral (Generically speaking). Remove the THIRD WIRE....if it is connected to the GROUND BUSS and attach to NEUTRAL.  If there is 110 Circuit that has a GROUND wire, then you CAN tap into THAT wire and run a separate ground to the new 4 wire receptacle.

IF NOT....then you jumper the receptacle so that Neutral and Ground are connected. YES, that is OK as long as a LOCAL CODE does not prohibit the bonding of Neutral to Ground. 

Here is what Maytag advises when a new dryer is installed and the service may NOT be 4 wire...

-Cycle Electric Dryer is manufactured ready to install with a 3-wire electrical supply connection. The neutral ground wire is permanently connected to the neutral conductor (white wire) within the dryer. If the dryer is installed with a 4-wire electrical supply connection, the neutral ground wire must be removed from the external ground connector screw (green screw), and secured under the neutral terminal (center or white wire) of the terminal block. When the neutral ground wire is secured under the neutral terminal (center or white wire) of the terminal block, the dryer cabinet is isolated from the neutral conductor. ■ A 4-wire power supply connection must be used when the dryer is installed in a location where grounding through the neutral conductor is prohibited. Grounding through the neutral is prohibited for (1) new branch-circuit installations, (2) mobile homes, (3) recreational vehicles, and (4) areas where local codes prohibit grounding through the neutral conductors.

 

NEC 250.32(B)(1)

The applicable NEC section is 250.32(B)(1), which reads as follows ("equipment grounding conductor" = "ground" and "grounded conductor" = "neutral" for us, and exception 2 is irrelevant for this):

(1) Supplied by a Feeder or Branch Circuit. An equipment grounding conductor, as described in 250.118, shall be run with the supply conductors and be connected to the building or structure disconnecting means and to the grounding electrode(s). The equipment grounding conductor shall be used for grounding or bonding of equipment, structures, or frames required to be grounded or bonded. The equipment grounding conductor shall be sized in accordance with 250.122. Any installed grounded conductor shall not be connected to the equipment grounding conductor or to the grounding electrode(s).

Exception No. 1: For installations made in compliance with previous editions of this Code that permitted such connection, the grounded conductor run with the supply to the building or structure shall be permitted to serve as the ground-fault return path if all of the following requirements continue to be met:

(1) An equipment grounding conductor is not run with the supply to the building or structure.

(2) There are no continuous metallic paths bonded to the grounding system in each building or structure involved.

(3) Ground-fault protection of equipment has not been installed on the supply side of the feeder(s).

If the grounded conductor is used for grounding in accordance with the provision of this exception, the size of the grounded conductor shall not be smaller than the larger of either of the following:

(1) That required by 220.61

(2) That required by 250.122

The current state of this section was reached in the 2008 NEC, which forbade new construction from using the feeder neutral to provide ground for the fed system. (Your choices now are to provide a separate ground wire, which is what is normally done, or use a distribution transformer to create a separately derived system for the fed building, which has its own N-G bond.) Many of the installations that fall under the current exception were installed prior to the 1999 NEC, which is the first edition that forbade parallel current paths between the structures involved.

Just now, Scott and Colleen Miller said:

Tom, would you recommend this TS?