Bob Keating

I think it has been that way since I have owned it. The roller is in direct contact with the bottom of the slide. My thinking, if I try to lower it, it is just going to move the whole thing lower since there is no roller under the low side.

Second post in two days, and thanks to all that responded to the first.

On our '09 Cayman, the galley floor appears to be bowed. The low side is depicted by the yellow arrow 1/2" from the floor, and the high point is the white arrow 1.25" from the floor.

The low side is behind the passenger seat and, and the high point is near the mid-point. There are at least three rollers from the mid-point to the fridge, but none from the mid point to the end of the slide floor nearest the passenger seat. The slide seems to operate as it should, it just looks funny. I considered adjusting the center roller down, but I really don't see how that will help. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

The coach has about 41,000 miles on it, and the brakes appear to have plenty of meat on them. The engine is an ISB 340 HP/620PFT.

Thanks Frank & 96 Evo. We have had this coach for about three years now, but have used it very little until the last two weeks. We spent this time traveling in the Arkansas Ozarks, which is my first experience with steep and continuous grades. I think I am still a bit in "car mode" with what I expect from the coach in regard to the ability to climb and descend steep grades. While pulling a Ford Fusion, there were some grades that I could only manage 35 MPH. On the descent, however, the engine brake would sometimes have the rpm's up in the 3,000 range, which was uncomfortable. Using the service brakes, I could bring my speed down, but I intend to travel the western part of the country where I assume the grades are steeper and longer. My worry with the drum brakes is fading. I did not experience this with the last, so I may be worrying about nothing. I think my best bet is to get more time in the seat and learn to stay ahead of the coach in steep terrain.

Thanks to all who have offered input.

sort of, I think it is more of an engine brake the uses the turbo. I switched to the Source fan, which reduced the engine braking a bit. Overall, the new  fan has been a plus.

I would like to thank everyone for their input. I was hoping that there might be a kit or a simple collection of parts that I could put together.

However, the job appears to be more than what I want to tackle.

Thank again to everyone!

My 2009 Cayman has front drum brakes. I would like a little more stopping power and was wondering if there anyone has done a disc brake conversion on a Monaco Coach. If so, did that increase the braking power? I searched all forums and did not find any information.

Thanks, all

My driver's side slide makes a clunking noise that appears in the center of the floor just behind the driver and co-pilot seats. You can verify this by running the slide all the way in, and then back out just a bit. if the clunk goes away, that is probably your issue. Mine appeared after putting on slide plates. It changed the geometry just enough to cause the steel wheel on the slide channel to bounce off of the top the the channel with the slide fully in. I was able to verify this by opening the passenger side fuel door and shining a light on the wheel. I could replicate the noise by pushing on the steel wheel with the slide fully in. I am sure, in my case, a proper alignment of the slide will fix it.

I had a similar issue, but was able to cobble mine back together, however, it was not split like yours. In looking for a solution, I found this (P/N 2224N17) in the McMasters & Carr catalog. You might be able to modify it to fit your use.

Murray,

Thanks for the suggestion, but I did not think there was a Watts link available for the 4-bag chassis.

Sorry Murray, I just realized you said sway bar, not watts link assembly.

I will check it out. My coach has a front sway bar but no rear. The Roadmaster sway bar is intriguing because it is a bolt on unit.

Greetings Everyone!

My 2009 Cayman has a 4-bag Roadmaster Chassis, and I was thinking about adding a rear sway bar. I remembered reading that Source Engineering had supplied them in the past. I spoke with Jim at Source, and informed me that I should install Motion Control Valves (MCU) instead. The only problem with this is that I installed a Ride Enhancement Kit, and the front air bags have 5/8" air line fittings. According to Jim, the 5/8" fittings are not available, and that I would need to find a 5/8" to 1/2" reducer. I have some concerns with this because the 5/8" airlines were supposed to be integral to the REK.

My question is two fold. Does anyone on this forum have any experience with MCU's in general, and how would you rate them? Second, Roadmaster has a bolt on sway bar that bolts onto the Source trailing arm's, no welding. Does anyone have any experience or thoughts about the Roadmaster sway bar?

Thanks to all.

Bob Keating

Thanks Tom,

I do have the Source arms. Since this mounts on the arms and not the frame, I am curious as to how effective it is. I was hoping somebody in Monaco land has installed this and could comment on if it is beneficial.

J. D.,

Do you have the bolt on bar that mounts to the trailing arms? Roadmaster still has this swaybar, but I would like some input from anyone who is using it.

Thanks to everyone that responded!

It appears that the Roadmaster 1209-145 is a bolt on kit with no welding. They did not have a price on the part, so I am assuming it is sold through a dealer network.

I will make some calls tomorrow.

Thanks again to everyone!

Does anyone know if the sway bar kit is still available for this chassis? My call to Source went unanswered, and Supersteer did not show one.

Thanks,

There is a steel wheel on the rear (inside) track on each side of the slide. When I would retract the slide until the hydraulics let me know it was fully retracted, the slide would tilt up just enough to take pressure off of the wheel. If I bump the extend one time, the wheel then regains contact with the track (no rattle). I am  sure a slide adjustment would take care of this; however, the slide is still sealed, so I will leave it alone for the time being.

I my original post, I stated this noise started after the installation of Guardian Plates. I want to make it clear the issue was not caused my any defect in the plates. I love them. My guess is the slide was always out of adjustment, and the minute thickness of the plates pushed it over the edge.

Thanks to everyone that replied.

Greeting Chris and all,

I figured out what the source of the noise is. The slide is coming in a bit too far and taking the load off of the rear roller. The steel roller is vibrating on its axle and against the track. The slide is a Lippert 2 x 2 hydraulic slide. My question is, how do you set the inbound stop for the hydraulic cylinders?

The photo shows the adjustment system for each side.

Thanks, Steven & Chris

I will take another look at this today or tomorrow and post what I find. Chris, the body panels on my Cayman appear to be secured by screws. I will take a closer look at this also.

Hello all,

I recently installed slide plates on the drivers side living room(raised) slide. No I have  rattle that is tied to road vibration. I have isolated this to a steel wheel on the front C channel guide for the slide. Apparently, the thickness of the plate was just enough to take the pressure off of this wheel,  so it is free to rattle on its steel axle.  Is their an adjustment that I can make to put more pressure on the wheel? The slide rides on wedge blocks, are they adjustable. Sorry, this part lives above the fuel tank, and the only way I can see it is through the filler door. their is not enough room to take a photo.

Thanks in advance.

Hello,

2009 Cayman

I am replacing the idler on my SOK III canopy, and I am having a problem finding replacement rivets to hold it in.  

They appear to be 1/4" blind rivets with a 1/4" grip. I have 1/4" x 1/2", but they appear to be too long. Does anyone know if the rivets were put in for manufacturing ease?

If so, the end cap should hold the inler in place.

Thanks,

Greetings,

I changed my IOTA unit out with a WFCO T-57. As you can see from the photos, it was mounted in a tight spot with very short conduits. To further complicate things, the WFCO unit is about 1.5 inches wider than the IOTA. It took about an hour to install, with the most aggravating part being the slightly offset conduit knock outs on the replacement. It seems to be working as it should; however, I have not yet load tested it. For what it is worth, I did work in the electronics field for about 30-years. I am pretty sure I should go to confession after this repair, though.

Thanks Ed.

I think the WFCO or Arterra (same thing) is the way I will go.

Tom,

Thank you for your help. My problem was looking at the lid of the IOTA. It appeared to have the panel and generator reversed from the WFCO. I eventually started the generator and found that the top bundle as mounted is indeed the generator, which appear to be the exact hook up for the WFCO.

Thank you all for your patience.

Thanks Kevin. I will look to see if it will work.

Tom, sorry I broke protocol!

I did search this topic extensively, and I did find the information about the ESCO switch. That switch would work, but the inputs and output are different from mine. The attached photo shows you what I am dealing with. The wiring has very short stub outs with little room to move the wiring.

I will do my best to post in the proper topic in the future.