Poohbear

Same here mine had a small bulb of some type that burned out a d I put some leds in and it works great now.

Thanks for the post I was wondering if you could do this without butchering the door. 

Yeah all of my gauges are hard to read not a good setup

On 8/22/2021 at 5:19 PM, joefromperry said:

I have my aquahot pulled out of my 2003 signature because of a coolant leak that I couldn't find; what a pain. Anyway, with the boiler full of regular water and both manifold valves turned off, I pressurized the system through first the overflow with regular cap on to around 13 lbs, and then again with a mity-vac radiator cap pressure adapter. I had some leakage around the filler neck. I heated the neck with a propane torch, and the top just came off easily with no persuasion. I was surprised to see there's only maybe 1/8 inch of overlap for the solder. So, I cleaned both surfaces very well, thinking it'll be easy to resolder. However, I must be missing something, because the top will not solder to the neck. Dissimilar metals? Probably going to head to my radiator shop to see if he can do anything, bur first, any suggestions?

 One is doing the exact same thing , been wanting to pull it out but have been putting it off. 

Yes I looked behind the trim and saw a hyd cylinder and a sissor mechanizem behind there. Y’all think the solinoid is the culprit that lets it come back in?

Ok I will , thanks for the replies, I just thought they sound electric but will have to dig a little deeper into it.

I don’t think the back 2 slides are hyd. The front 2 are I can here the pump running when I let them out but the back ones I can’t here a pump only slide real quiet but I could be wrong I will check it out. Thanks guys. I will let y’all know when I figure it out.

Wanted to see if any of you have had the problem of a slide creeping back in slowly on its own. I have a 2004 signature and the bedroom slide on the passenger slide will come back in slowly over time. Is there something that’s suppose to hold it ? I assume that the slide topper is giving it enough pull back to make it slide but don’t know. 

8 hours ago, amphi_sc said:

I still have the older 5 button thermostat and rear A/C heat pump load shares with washer only (dryer is 240V).  When doing the wash and we forget to turn off that A/C, yes the load share kills the A/C as designed BUT as the washer current momentarily drops as it changes between washing modes the A/C may try to run for a few seconds until the washer demands more current.  The load sharing relay arc'd out and had to be replaced probably from the high current loads of those brief seconds.  So, we try to remember to turn off that A/C manually when doing the wash.

If the new digital CCC thermostat got more intelligent and prevents the short run cycles by faulting with a power loss E7 code, that may be a good thing.  Which thermostat is in your system?

 

8 minutes ago, Poohbear said:

 

This is the one that controls middle and rear AC

12 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I wasn't being clear.  My breaker didn't trip but the GFI part did.  Those breakers look a little different,  they have an extra little yellow or white button for the GFI.

I looked and it’s not a GFCI breaker just looks normal.

33 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Is that breaker a GFIC breaker?  If it is that may be the problem.  I had one go bad so I bought a Square D at Lowes, it appeared to be the same.  It worked but would eventually trip,  so I swapped it with the other breaker in the box.  So far it's all working.

 

 

I don’t think it is , but the breaker isn’t tripping only the e7 code on thermostat

6 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

No need to turn it off as there is a load-sharing relay that does it automatically when the washer or dryer are being used. I posted about that in a previous post.

Well it seems like if I don’t it shows the e7 code on thermostat and it won’t restart unless I cut it off and back on? Should it reset after the washer is cut off?

22 minutes ago, Bob Blackmon said:

The middle A/C will not run if either the washer or drier are running.

Thanks Bob , I didn’t know that but was putting small tidbits of info together and had about figured that it must be linked somehow. So probably that was the reason for the code. Thank you all for the info I will turn it off before wife fires up the washer and see what happens.

48 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I would inspect the twist nut connections for the 120 VAC power on that specific AC unit to make sure that they are tight. May have gotten loose with vibration during road travel.

Also, having three AC's I believe that the middle one shares the power with the washer/dryer through a relay. You may want to check that relay to see if it has been compromised at all.

Yes I’ve been looking at things this morning I would believe that the shore power is good up to the power dog , so I was going to start at the breakers. I see it only has 2 breakers marked as 1 for the front ac and 1 for rear , I don’t see anything for a middle ac. So not sure where middle gets it’s power? But you say it shares power for washer dryer? Anyways all of the connections on the breakers seem tight don’t see any visual problems . And I have already lowered the ceiling mirrors to expose the front 2 ac to inspect wiring will let y’all know later. Just a thought the wife has been using the washer dryer at same time as the middle ac would this be my culprit as maybe I should cut the middle ac off when using washer and dryer?

3 hours ago, Chuck B said:

I am having problems following the time line of your post.  How can a turned off AC last night and it came back on yesterday?  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

My bad I meant we cut the thermostat off because it was showing the e7 the night before yesterday and when we got up the next morning I turn thermostat back on and the ac ran all day until bedtime I noticed it was showing the e7 again. And the same thing today it’s running today but we will tonight . 

Started getting an e7 code in my middle ac , and I know that means a loss of power but I have a hughs power watch dog and it shows good power on both sides and no errors. I cut the ac off last night and it came back on yesterday and run all day but then before bed time it had come up with the e7 again.any ideas ? 

Ok I’ll have to look into it a little more . I tried but couldn’t figure it out. Thanks all

Hi everyone I have a 2004 signature and was trying to find info on the ac filter location. The coach had the decorated ceiling over where the ac is but I cant seem to see a filter or see a way to lower the ceiling fixture to get to it. So what is the deal?

4 hours ago, Ivylog said:

As Vito said ^^^ it’s normal for the light to come on when you have 2 charging sources.

Yes I understand but the audible warning along with the light is painful to the ears. I’ll try turning lights on next time and see if this will quiet it.

20 minutes ago, ncsteve said:

 No help on the light issue, but that is one beautiful coach!!

Thanks Steve we thought so too considering it’s age.

11 hours ago, John Haggard said:

Did you test the start batteries? At the battery terminal 's

 

Did you test tge House Batteries?

At the batteries terminal.

 

With the engine Off

Generator Off

Unplugged to shore power 

 

See what volts you get 

Did you test the start batteries? At the battery terminal 's

 

Did you test test House Batteries?

At the batteries terminal.

 

With the engine Off

Generator Off

Unplugged to shore power 

 

See what volts you get 

Welcome Ronny

That's a wonderful coach to have

Post a picture for us

1 minute ago, Poohbear said:

 

This is the only pics I have so far

8 hours ago, vito.a said:

It's normal for the Alternator Fail light (battery symbol) to come on when there are other charging sources. 

Just turn your headlights on and the warning light will go out.  

Well I did notice that when I pushed the brake it would go out but as soon as I released it it would come back on. Also my headlights have been changed to led ones and don’t know if they would have much of a draw? Also all of my batteries are only 6 months old but I haven’t checked voltage but haven’t had any issues with cranking or any house related voltage issues.

Hi everyone wanted to see if anyone has experienced this situation. I have a 2004 Monaco signature that I just bought first of this year. One day I cranked it up to move and the battery light came on in the dash but I had shore power plugged up so I unplugged it and the light went out. We just came back from a trip this weekend and this is the first trip that I needed to run generator to run ac. So when I fired it up all was fine but when I cranked the genny that same light came on and stayed on for about a 50 mile trip. I thought the alternator on the engine was giving up the ghost. But I noticed that the voltage was 13.8 volts so I thought maybe the house genny was keeping them charged. So on the trip back today when I started big engine no light when I started the house genny and it kicked in light came back on. I let it idle till I hooked up the toad and was waiting on my son to dump his camper I’d say 15 20 min the light went back off and stayed off all the way back. What could cause this? Does it have a warning to let you know you are still hooked up to shore power and somehow it does it with genny too? Just don’t want to get stranded if it needs fixing need to do it now.

19 minutes ago, RC2018 said:

I would suggest you take a hard look at the headlight dimmer switch. To simplify the headlight circuit, headlight switch feeds power to dimmer that feed lightbulbs, hi or low depending on the setting. Since your hi beams are ok, I think maybe the dimmer switch may be failing. 

This ^ is what it sounds like to me I have a 2004 and the dimmer is on the blinker arm the switch is probably mounted somewhere on the steering column

I use these on my outside dual and the tag wheel and straight one on the inside dual