Jimmer

Last 10,000 mile oil change it used 1 qt each 1,225 miles.

Is this normal?

I did a Blackstone oil analysis and all was good.  My max turbo boost is 24. Oil pressure and water temperature is normal. No oil drips.

What are things i should look at ?

Still avaible?

my strip is connected to the overhead door light.

3 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Your pump is right there in your picture. The same type that Ray has posted in the first reply. It is electric so you don't need to run the engine. Only turn ignition to ON and feel if the pump is running and producing vacuum and if so, if it makes it to respective actuators or if it sucks air somewhere. Just follow the lines to start with.

Looking at your picture again, I see the white lead disconnected at the pump so look into that first 

you have good eyes.

31 minutes ago, Al redcay said:

That white wire goes to my window washer , but I moved the vac hoses off & on and now it’s working . So thank you all for your help.

Yeah.  Motorhomes are always teaching us.

If the vacuum pump is not working then air blows out of all vents at a low air speed.

I recommend the need to varify if the vacuum  pump is working. I replaced mine because the pressure switch stuck on so it ran all the time. It also can fail to turn the pump on. I found a fuse, 7.5 Amp, for the pump and other functions in the FRBay.

11 hours ago, Al redcay said:

thanks but so far haven’t found the problem ,this is what they look like ,as you can see the lever I tried to move and it still doesn’t work.

My 03 Windsor is setup with no lever visible but functions the same. I closes the fresh outside air so cabin air is recerculated. Got have vacuum from your vac pump I see in your pic. Put a small line on the metal diagram, such on it road see if it opens.

On 3/30/2022 at 4:30 PM, Ray Davis said:

What is an aspirator system?

Same as venturi.  A carburetor is a venturi. As air passes through the throat of the carb it pulls fuel into the air mixture. On the motorhome its air pulling air. You might google up venturi.

16 hours ago, Al redcay said:

I have a vacuum gadget on fire wall with a arm that I can move up an down but that doesn’t help with the amount of air out of vents. 

That is probably your air induction box. Mine has two openings. When open it pulls fresh air into the dash. It  is closed when  Max AC  is selected and recirculates inside coach air.

I think there are electric actuators that open and close vacuum valves that direct the airflow to different levels. 

May be a leaking vacuum line.

Replaced my vac pump with a new Dorman but also ordered the wiring harness because the connection is different.

Some Monacos use an aspirator system rather then the vac pump

love the smell of fresh new tires.

Ray what Toyota did you flat tow? I current to a 06 Matrix manual flat tow.

The plastic housing around the connectors accepted my original coach pigtail female connector.

Glad I could help expedite your repair. 

Fan speed switch probably not bad since it is sending 12V to motor.  Resistance coils mounted up on outside firewall, dash air induction box, curb side, replacement was my problem solver last week for my 03 Windsor. Four wires plug into the top of the resistor . Unit held with 2 Phillips screws. My resistors were mounted inside a perforated metal cage to keep debris off coil. Resitor cluster is Ford, 4C2Z-19A706-BA. Bought Auto Zone RUC1006 did not fit cage and I had only 2 of 3 speeds. Googled and ordered Karpal 1KPFD 0107001. It fits cage and gives me 3 speeds along with the high speed.

My headlight switch dimmer not good. Rotated know multiple times to polish the resistance coils. All good now.

Back of my guard shows  lot dings  and debris stuck to it.

There is my sign it is working. I'm keeping mine.

Protection and vanity all in one.

I have 32" Trico blades on my 03 Windsor. Blades have a problem wiping all the surface. Slides over some places, especially in windy conditions. 

I'm thinking my arm springs aren't strong enough. So rethinking that 28" would have more pressure against the glass. 

On 1/2/2022 at 7:27 PM, jacwjames said:

Long distances don't bother me, if I need to get somewhere I just hunker down and drive.  In the motorhome I do try to drive during daylight hours.  If necessary I leave at the crack of dawn.  Last trip out I drove ~580 miles by myself, stopping only a couple time for short breaks. 

I am fortunate in that my coach drives and handles great and does a good job even in winds.  I do not get fatigued driving.  

On my last trip I did do some shorter slower legs, took 3 day to drive the Natchez Parkway, I will say it was relaxing. 

On 1/2/2022 at 7:27 PM, jacwjames said:

Long distances don't bother me, if I need to get somewhere I just hunker down and drive.  In the motorhome I do try to drive during daylight hours.  If necessary I leave at the crack of dawn.  Last trip out I drove ~580 miles by myself, stopping only a couple time for short breaks. 

I am fortunate in that my coach drives and handles great and does a good job even in winds.  I do not get fatigued driving.  

On my last trip I did do some shorter slower legs, took 3 day to drive the Natchez Parkway, I will say it was relaxing. 

Same for me in my 03 Windsor, very stable platform.

This my front tank with new fittings and pressure switch. No leaks. Done.

Now to the rear tank.

1 hour ago, isptbart said:

If you have fittings with air lines located at the bottom of your air tanks, then you have drains. Air lines at the bottom are for the specific purpose to push out any moisture (when opened) - that is why they are there. You can trace your airlines to see where they go. The drain valves I had on one motor home were at the rear of the coach. The drain valves on my present coach are located up front on a brace next to my generator as shown above. I actually have 3 drain valves in a bank of four valves. In my photo above the lower two valves are only for drainage. The second valve from the top with a male fitting is actually for dual purposes; 1) the drain line for my "wet tank" & 2) can also be used for feeding air into my system from an outside source such as my shop compressor.  I used that valve to air up my coach & constantly keep air in the system in order to check for leaks - w/o running the coach engine compressor. The top valve (female air fitting) is used to charge the brake system, in the case of emergency for a tow by a wrecker, to release my emergency brakes if needed.

Very Interesting. All of these posts just keep getting better. I  have the top two but not the bottom two. I wonder where they are on my 03 Windsor.  I will have chase them down. I just entered the DP family last December. A lot to learn.

Thanks to all you guys.

6 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

You don't say which system you have.  I don't know what your 2002 Dip has.  On my 2005 Exec I have HWH Air Leveling (and HWH Hydraulic Jacks) and if I use the dump switch on the Air control panel, it will dump the air until the coach stops moving (down) in less than 30 seconds.  I never looked at the air pressure gauges, seems inmaterial to me what they might show.  

Maybe the Power Gear (I think that is the other Air system that Monaco used) has different dump valves.  But I think David has the best advice in checking to see if the dump valves are partially plugged or otherwise restricting the airflow.  

  -Rick N.

About the same for me in my 03 Windsor with HWH air leveling and key off. Friend of mine has same model year with hydraulic leveling only and his dump is slow.

Thanks for clarification David.

17 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

There are DEFINITELY swivel fittings.  Keep looking.  They mitigate the requirement to keep the lines exiting the fittings straight, but they do make it easier.  I used several swivel fittings in my "quest".

Yes, i find swivels in the push-to-connect fittings but not the compression connectors

1 hour ago, vanwill52 said:

Jim, although we have never met in person, I have come to know that you are a methodical, meticulous man.  (Those solid sassafrass doors you made for your house are spectacular!)  You don't criticize others, or offer advice on subjects with which you have no PERSONAL experience.  THAT is the ideal that Bill D wanted his website to be built on, and I'm sure the "crusty ol' buzzard" is looking down favorably on you.

I repeat that these PTC fittings are entirely reliable, BUT Monaco often failed to observe the manufacturer's admonition that the nylon tubing exiting the fittings must have at least enough "slack" to allow the tubing to exit STRAIGHT from the fitting.  And the tubing must be cut off very cleanly and squarely (razor blade works well).  There are some tubing-cutting devices offered online that are much like battery cable cutters, that leave a bad burr on the cut tubing.  If you do not follow these common-sense guidelines, over time, the connection will leak.  Even if you must use "butt connectors" to add in some extra nylon line, that is a good choice.  I always try to find something "sturdy and stationary" to fasten those nylon tubes to with a zip-tie, so that the wind underneath the coach is not "whipping" them around AT THE FITTING.  Sometimes, I have to weld or bolt in that extra support.

Yes, I went "anal" looking for leaks.  Not sure it was worth it, once I got past being able to park overnight and not get below 90 PSI, but I did.  I suspect you will do the same.  You can unquestionably reach that goal of nearly zero leakage overnight.  It just depends on whether you think it's worth the effort.

Good luck, my Brother!

I had 3 lines that come into the fitting at a very steep angle but not leaking at the lines entry.  Then i had to add extra line  joined by a union. Another source for more leaks with more fittings. DOT compressed fittings are inexpensive but not find any swivel ones.  At 24 hours later both needles have stooped and have leveled of at 70psi.

5 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Jim,

Monaco deceived everyone back in the day when they were in business. They advertised the shield as being 3M but it is really a Diamond Shield that is not as thick with far less quality and durability than the 3M shield.

That is very interesting.  My favorite removal was basic Walmart oven cleaner.  It left the least amount of glue. I did soak with multiple applications for 2 days.

4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

My 2002 Windsor is over 20 years old now and the Diamond Shield was heavily cracked and black. See attached photos.

I should have had it removed years ago but as usual other priorities always got in the way. Since I was contemplating the possible sale of my coach this winter I decided it was time to have it done.

I contacted both The Ugly Shield Removal company and Dazzling Detailing recommended by David Pratt, owner of this forum.

I decided to go with Dazzling Detailing as they come directly to your location whereas I would have had to drive to Fort Meyers FL to have the Ugly Shield Removal company do the job. Paul's contact information is 407-948-9284

Here are the before and after photos of the job.

Simply amazing! It's not perfect but it is at least 95% back to normal.

I plan to discuss with Paul, owner of Dazzling Detailing, about having his paint technician repair both cap tops and the lower passenger side corner as the clear coat and paint have completely come off. I plan to have them detail the entire coach after the painting is done.

Maybe after I am done I won't want to sell the coach! 😁

Sorry about the two photos that didn't upload correctly.

That is a huge difference, looks great. I have a similar issue but not quite as gross. My build sheet says i have the 3M covering on my 03 Windsor. I have removed 1/4 of it on the drivers side. looks great but a lot of work. Thinking we will be wintering in FL, rather than N Missouri, so my plans are to have someone remove the rest of it. I will check out those guys. Thanks for info.

2 hours ago, isptbart said:

Jim - good point on the purge/drying cycle!!!! I just checked this morning & my air tank pressures held steady over-night after changing out a leaking 3/8" air line fitting. Finally making progress with the air system! Thanks for your help!

Bart from VA

What was your procedure of refitting the leaking line?