weighman695

Hello,

There is a slow leak on my Shorelines Hose Reel CW40D.  Attached are pictures of the location of the leak.  Anybody had this problem before?  How did you resolve the leak problem.  Do I need to replace the brass fitting that is identified by a red arrow in the attached picture?  If so, how?  Where did you buy the required parts to be replaced?  Do I need to remove the wet bay front panel to access the hose reel to replace the parts?  I can reach the hose reel from the pump room but it is really tight.

Any help on what direction I should be looking at is highly appreciated.

Thanks you....

6 hours ago, birdshill123 said:

Wednesday they changed the valve that the TA had installed. It was faulty. I went for a 10 mile test ride and air was exhausting at a high rate from one of the valves. But the unit remained level. Back to the shop and they started looking at where the line from the leaky valve connected to the system. The macanic eas ready to go home. He switched 2 of the lines and like magic all was good. I think the T A had fooled with thoseines. We drove 400 miles today and it is fine. I am going ro start a new thread on getting service at large dealer shops.

Bruce, who is "they"?.  Is it Josams 

21 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Being on the East Coast, I can only recommend Josams.  The truck chassis shop I used 4 years ago in Elkhart was a one man and two flunky helpers show.  If it was still run by him, maybe.  But Josams is the best bet.  I’m sue that there are some good shops. 

What I would recommend is finding a good OTR truck shop and having them go through your entire air system.  I have mine leak tested maybe every 4 years ago.  Mine leaks down to the alarm in maybe 5 days at ambient.  Colder….the quicker.  That is WELL within the DOT safety standards.  Now, when I say, leaks, the air bags do not.  Just the air system.  The usual fix is to replace the PPV or Pressure valves.  I have had to replace at least one,  I did some bubble testing.  Replacing the PPV and I think there are 3 of them would be a good start.  I also leak tested the Wabco. It had minor leaks on the  front and rear.  I chose not to have it rebuilt and bought a new one and had it installed.

From what I understand from talking to some more experienced and knowledgeable members, 5 days to leak down to the alarm is not worth chasing.  The Caveat is that the air suspension system not “droop”.  We have the same leveling system.  Mine just needed tweaking.  If you get a recommendation on a chassis or OTR air shop that knows how to adjust the 3 sensors, that is a piece of cake; there is one on each rear corner and a center one for the front axle.  

Henderson’s in OR comes highly recommended.  That would be a lot closer.  

Good Luck..,

 

Thank you for the info...

20 hours ago, Doug and Nicki said:

I had the same problem with my 08 Dynasty last week, except it was on the right side. Your leveling valve needs replaced. There are three of these valves on your coach, one in the front and two in the rear. The rear ones are located just behind and above the drive axle. I went to a truck parts supply company and they said the valve is obsolete and was replaced with 6300BFAB13 at a cost of $127 each. However, they had only four in their warehouse and said those ones were discontinued. The only difference is the air connect ports on the replacement valve are 3/8" versus the 1/2" required to fit your air lines. I went to Fluid Dynamics and got adapters to go from 3/8 to 1/2. These are just plastic inserts.

Since I am unsure whether there will be another replacement, I bought three of the four valves they had. The adjustment needs to be set with the engine running and in travel mode. The distance between the air bag mounting plates needs to be 8".

Thank you for the info....

55 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

I wrote a post on an “air & Valid” leveling problem on a friend’s 07 Dynasty.  He took it to one of the country’s leading chassis and such experts, Josams in Orlando.  They had to restore the entire air system and replace the Auxiliary compressor.  That was the “start” of it.  

They originally thought that the valves were “defective”.  Ordered new ones.  But  when they started pulling the valves out and ran more tests….BINGO, a Valid issue. The “new to my friend” Dynasty had had the Valid Control or maybe the keypad and the unit replaced prior to sale.  It would NOT level properly….but the ride height was OK.  Keith the SR, Monaco tech was stumped and finally called Valid.  Their tech support spent about 20 minutes and had Keith totally run the diagnostics and then do a complete “shutdown and cold reboot” of the system.  BINGO.  All was well.  System functioned and leveling was working perfectly.

My only advice….make sure that an unknowing tech doesn’t misdiagnose the Valid and replace parts needlessly.  Valid does have a good and responsive tech support line for technicians.  

I had my Camelot recalibrated at a chassis shop in Elkhart a few years ago.  All he did was adjust the corner sensors and we aired up and down many times til he got it tweaked.

Good Luck

Tom,

About 4 months ago, I had a problem of losing air in a day or two on my air bags and the front will lean down.   I have the Power Gear leveling system.  I think it is partnered with Valid.  Since the rig is 15 year old rig and the air bags are all peeling off at its bottom side, I replaced all 8 airbags using one of the truck service company.  The air issue was not resolved.  In two days, the air pressure gauge will show 65 psi from 115 psi.  

Do you know of a knowlegable and good company to resolve my issue.  I am based here in Ventura California.

What is the name and contact info of the chassis shop in Elkhart?  Or should I bring my rig to Josams?

Thanks for your help.

2 hours ago, DoubleL said:

This is what I am going to put in mine. Same thing I used in the engine.

What color is this coolant/antifreeze?

Thanks.

I have an onan Quiet Diesel 8000 generator and just bought the rig last year.  My current engine and diesel coolants looks like greenish yellow.  What is the brand and part number (or whatever you call it) do you use as your coolant?  Manual says antifreeze of coolant must meet ethylene glycol or propylene glycol but no suggested brand and part number.

37 minutes ago, Pduggs said:

My OEM water pump has been making a lot of noise for a long time, but continued to work. I bought a replacement pump last October on Amazon (Remco Aquajet 55 5.3 gpm 12 vdc) which is the same pump as the OEM, but the names have changed. I didn’t install the new pump until yesterday. Unfortunately the pump was damaged during delivery, but I didn’t know this until yesterday. The inlet port plastic fastener is broken causing the pump to pull air and not pressurize my water system. The broken piece is part of the pump head and not fixable or replaceable. 
 

I call Remco the manufacturer of the pump and was told they don’t sell on Amazon. What? They can do nothing for me, but sell me a new pump. I couldn’t find a phone number for the Amazon seller, who claims to be Remco. Weird. 
 

I’m way past my return window, but my son says call Amazon and they’ll fix it. I do this and amazingly I’m to receive a new pump tomorrow at no cost. 
 

The reviews on Amazon have several people complaining about the the poor shipping. It comes in a flimsy box without any packing material to protect the pump and the box isn’t even sealed. My box was damaged and open upon delivery. 
 

I’m not sure if I can post a picture or link of the Amazon site I purchased the pump from. If site rules allow this, I can. 

Paul,

I have a similar noise problem on my Remco Aquajet 55 5.3 gpm 12 vd water pump.  Let us know if the noise issue goes away after replacing your pump.

Thanks...

Barry,

I have the same issue.  Please take a picture on how the snap covrrsover phillips head screw looks like.  I am concerned that I may damage the panel.  Thanks.

2 hours ago, bobdinsmore said:

Earnel, I did not read all of the Replies you've received so my apologies if the following has been addressed. Your original writeup sounds like you depress the boost switch for a couple of minutes and then try to start the engine. The way to use the switch is to hold the switch depressed while you start the engine. This connects the two battery banks DURING the start. You can test this out by running you battery run down and then trying to start the engine. I think this is the fix for your problem: YouTube may have let you down.

When I first got the coach, sadly I also had the same misunderstanding that the chassis batteries were charged when plugged into shore power. I fixed it by installing a Trik-L-Charge. It's inexpensive and has worked flawlessly for several years. There are other more expensive solutions.

 

•  

Earnel, I did not read all of the Replies you've received so my apologies if the following has been addressed. Your original writeup sounds like you depress the boost switch for a couple of minutes and then try to start the engine. The way to use the switch is to hold the switch depressed while you start the engine. This connects the two battery banks DURING the start. You can test this out by running you battery run down and then trying to start the engine. I think this is the fix for your problem: YouTube may have let you down.

When I first got the coach, sadly I also had the same misunderstanding that the chassis batteries were charged when plugged into shore power. I fixed it by installing a Trik-L-Charge. It's inexpensive and has worked flawlessly for several years. There are other more expensive solutions.

Bob,

Yes, I did depressed and held the battery boost switch for about 2 minutes and started the engine while the switched are pressed and held.  No go.  That's when I started reaching out to the group.  I ended up replacing the Trombetta solenoid and the two Interstate 31-MHD batteries.  My voltage  reading now on both solenoid lugs are the same compared to the old solenoid which read two different voltages.  Now I think all is good.  We'll see on my next trip.

As I have posted above, I replaced the Trombetta (solenoid) with a silver alloy contacts and the two 31-MHD batteries.  I left Las Vegas this morning and traveled south.   Everything went smooth until I reached my destination (about 155 miles of travel).  As I reached my destination and trying to find parking spot, the ALT. CHARGE on my dashboard began beeping and flashing.  According to my manual, ALT. CHARGE means failure within the alternator charging system.  After about 3 minutes of beeping and before I turned off the engine, the beeping and flahing went away.  I remove the trombetta and the two batteries and replaced them exactly how I removed them (same terminals).  What do I need to look at in order to resolve the issue?  I am leaving early in the morning tomorrow for another 175 miles of travel.  What do I do if this issue repeats again?  Can I just ignore it until I reach my destination?  If I ignore it, will it damage more parts or system?

HELP......

Thanks to everyone. I think I found what the culprit is. I am now safely back at home. Yesterday morning before I left my stop, I checked all the battery connections of the new chassis batteries. Sure enough, one of the nuts are not properly tightened. That could be causing the Alt. Charge to flash and beep. After tightening and travelling about 175 miles to home, the beeping and flashing was gone. Never showed up again.  I will test all voltages again to make sure the batteries are being charged when engine is running, when generator is running and when engine and generstor are both running.

Thank you for all your help....

As I have posted above, I replaced the Trombetta (solenoid) with a silver alloy contacts and the two 31-MHD batteries.  I left Las Vegas this morning and traveled south.   Everything went smooth until I reached my destination (about 155 miles of travel).  As I reached my destination and trying to find parking spot, the ALT. CHARGE on my dashboard began beeping and flashing.  According to my manual, ALT. CHARGE means failure within the alternator charging system.  After about 3 minutes of beeping and before I turned off the engine, the beeping and flahing went away.  I remove the trombetta and the two batteries and replaced them exactly how I removed them (same terminals).  What do I need to look at in order to resolve the issue?  I am leaving early in the morning tomorrow for another 175 miles of travel.  What do I do if this issue repeats again?  Can I just ignore it until I reach my destination?  If I ignore it, will it damage more parts or system?

HELP......

Thank you very much everyone.  Today, I just placed the order for an Amp-L-Start device and will be installing as shown on my most recent diagram.  I am now confident that I know what I will be doing.

Thanks to this forum.....

36 minutes ago, weighman695 said:

One more question Rick, if I decided to buy the Amp-L-Star (http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html), is the attached picture that shows assumptions where the wires will be connected correct.  If not, please let me know how.

Thanks....

Also, as you can see on the rear electrical bay picture that I attached, I have a 20A solar controller.  I have only 1-100watts solar panel on my rig's roof.  based on the connections that you see in the picture, which batteries are being charged by the solar; house only, both house and chassis or chassis only?  With this solar in the mix, will there be a problem if I install Amp-L-Start?

37 minutes ago, weighman695 said:

 

 

Got it.  Thank you very much for explaining all that to me.  I really appreciate it.  I learn a lot from this forum and I am really grateful to everyone who took their time,  knowledge and experience explaining the principle behind the issue.

One more question Rick, if I decided to buy the Amp-L-Star (http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html), is the attached picture that shows assumptions where the wires will be connected correct.  If not, please let me know how.

Thanks....

26 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

I think you are asking if there will be an impact if the GENERATOR is running when the main engine is running (the alternator is on the main engine).  The answer is no, but, depending on how your Alternator Fail (ALT-FAIL) circuit is wired, you may get an intermittent light on the dash.  This is not a problem, just the ALT-FAIL circuit being confused by two charging sources.  You could unplug the 110 VAC maintainer if it bothers you.

  -Rick N. 

26 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

I think you are asking if there will be an impact if the GENERATOR is running when the main engine is running (the alternator is on the main engine).  The answer is no, but, depending on how your Alternator Fail (ALT-FAIL) circuit is wired, you may get an intermittent light on the dash.  This is not a problem, just the ALT-FAIL circuit being confused by two charging sources.  You could unplug the 110 VAC maintainer if it bothers you.

  -Rick N. 

26 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

I think you are asking if there will be an impact if the GENERATOR is running when the main engine is running (the alternator is on the main engine).  The answer is no, but, depending on how your Alternator Fail (ALT-FAIL) circuit is wired, you may get an intermittent light on the dash.  This is not a problem, just the ALT-FAIL circuit being confused by two charging sources.  You could unplug the 110 VAC maintainer if it bothers you.

  -Rick N. 

Got it.  Thank you very much for explaining all that to me.  I really appreciate it.  I learn a lot from this forum and I am really grateful to everyone who took their time,  knowledge and experience explaining the principle behind the issue.

1 minute ago, waterskier_1 said:

Yes, you could use that float charger, but you would connect it to the CHASSIS Batteries.  The house batteries will be charged anytime you have shore power, and this float charger would keep up on the Chassis battery, when you have shore power (but remember, you might have to switch the battery compartment outlet, likely for the Block Heater, to on, if applicable).  You do not need to unplug it when the generator is on.  The generator and shore power both work the same for charging the house batteries.  But remember, you also will have the alternator charging both when the main engine is running.

 

Thanks Rick,

"But remember, you also will have the alternator charging both when the main engine is running."

Will there be a negative impact to the electrical system or batteries if both the alternator are charging when the main engine is running?

1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

Yes, that will allow your inverter/ charger powered by shore power or generator and also solar when available to also charge your chassis battery.  I prefer to say "maintain" vs "charge" since it's not designed to charge a dead battery.  Instead, it will keep a mousing charged battery charged, whenever the house battery is being charged. 

Yes it will affect the coach charging by adding the capability to charge the chassis battery whenever the house battery is being charged.  But it will not negatively affect any other charging. 

  - Rick N 

Rick,

I am just exploring my options and I want to learn too.  Can I also use a 120 Volts Schumacher 1.5 amp float charger which is in my storage for almost t 5 years now?  I have an electrical outlet in my battery compartment where I can plug the float charger.  I assume I have to connect the positive lead to the positive lug and the negative lead to the negative lug of the house batteries.  Do I need to unplug the float charger when I am going to travel and when the generator will be turned on?  Or, can I just install and forget?  

Newbie who would like to learn here.  Thanks...

9 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

Yes, that will allow your inverter/ charger powered by shore power or generator and also solar when available to also charge your chassis battery.  I prefer to say "maintain" vs "charge" since it's not designed to charge a dead battery.  Instead, it will keep a mousing charged battery charged, whenever the house battery is being charged. 

Yes it will affect the coach charging by adding the capability to charge the chassis battery whenever the house battery is being charged.  But it will not negatively affect any other charging. 

  - Rick N 

Thank you so much Rick.

Will I benefit more on this product http://www.lslproducts.net/ALS_Overview_Page.html instead of this product  http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html?

Or is it overkill.

Again, I really appreciate your help.

11 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

No.  Well you are as long as you are holding the Battery Boost switch, but that doesn't really count.  Any voltage reading above 13.3 Volts means there is a charge being applied to the battery.  So, when you press the Boost, it energizes the solenoid, and the house battery charger is also applied to the chassis battery.  But when you release the boost, the solenoid opens, and the battery voltage drops below 13.3 Volts, indicating that that battery is no longer being charged.  I do not have a wiring diagram for that year Camelot, so I can't say for sure if it should charge the chassis batteries from shore power or not.  I can say that it is not charging them.  There are aftermarket devices that will allow you to, or you can rewire your coach which will also allow you to charge the chassis batteries.   I do NOT recommend just sitting the solenoid so it is allay on though.  That is stupid.  You no longer have any isolation between the chassis & house battery banks and either system can drain the other.  If that is acceptable, get rid of the solenoid entirely, and just connect both battery banks together. That will yield the same results with less components. 

  - Rick N 

 

Thank you Rick,

I am leaning on buying one of this : http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html.  Do you think this will resolve my issue?  It looks like it is a $55.00 plus tax fix.  

If I decide to buy one of this, will it affect any of the current charging operation of the coach?

Update:

I brought the two interstate chassis batteries (31-MHD) to Interstate Batteries of Las Vegas.  The batteries are discharged.  Prior to bringing the batteries to Interstate, I tested the batteries using TOPDON ArtiBattery 101 12V battery tester.  Results showed REPLACE.  So, I bought two (2) new Interstate batteries 31-MHD date codes 12/21.  Also, the Trombetta 114-1211-020 (Silver Alloy Contacts) arrived today.

I install the two new batteries and replace the existing trombetta solenoid with new the new Trombetta 114-1211-020 (Silver Alloy Contacts).  Here are the following measurements:

Prior to installation and measured at battery terminals:  both 12.72 Volts

After installation with solenoid activated (by pressing and holding battery boost switch on the dashboard):

Measured at top left lug of the trombetta (solenoid) :  13.51 Volts  

Measured at top right lug of the trombetta (solenoid)  :  13.51 Volts

Measured at bottom lug of the solenoid (positive lead on small lug where purple wire and negative lead where white wire)  :  11.50 Volts  

Measured chassis battery with both batteries on parallel (house and chassis battery disconnects on; solenoid NOT activated)  : 12.72 Volts

Measured house battery@4-6V Trojan battery series parallel (house and chassis battery disconnects on; solenoid NOT activated)  : 13.60 Volts

Now folks, what does this data indicates?  Am I charging the chassis batteries now?  If not, what else I can do or test.

Let me know.  Thanks....

8 hours ago, amphi_sc said:

The big boy solenoid internal contacts need polishing.  Solenoid feel warm means it's engaging but contacts to corroded to conduct.  Fairly easy to fix. I replaced mine, and then took apart the old one cleaning the copper contract points and carry that old as a spare.  Yes, symptoms: Chassis not charging on shore power & house not charging from alternator & battery boost not helping start engine as chassis parasitic loads drag them down.  When it clicks to engage the voltages are not the same on both sides of the big lugs....and it should be the same...

Thanks Amphi_sc,

Exactly what I am getting!!! (Chassis not charging on shore power & house not charging from alternator & battery boost not helping start engine as chassis parasitic loads drag them down.  When it clicks to engage the voltages are not the same on both sides of the big lugs).  I just measured this morning the voltages at the big lugs when the solenoid is engaged and I am getting 13.74 Volts on house terminal and 12.33 Volts on Chassis terminal.

New Trombetta solenoid is coming in tomorrow and will replace the existing on Saturday.  Hopefully it will fix the problem.

BTW, how did you take apart and cleaned the old solenoid?  Mine is Trombetta  114-1211-010 (copper contacts) being replaced with Trombetta  114-1211-020 (silver alloy contacts).

22 minutes ago, Aridjoe said:

My 2006 Diplomat has a substantial solenoid mounted in the battery compartment that provides the circuit between the house and chassis batteries when the battery boost switch is pushed. That is the solenoid you are bypassing when you use the jumper cables. It went out on mine and I had to replace it. I would make sure the voltage is getting to the switching lead on the solenoid when the boost switch is pushed, verify the solenoid is making noise when the voltage is applied, and then if the voltage on the chassis batteries goes up when the solenoid is activated. 

Good luck!

Will do.  Thanks...

17 minutes ago, BradHend said:

That click is the solenoid plunger moving and basically activating a bigger switch that connects your house and chassis battery. 

It sounds like you now know the solenoid is changing state when your DW hits the switch up front, so that seems to check out okay.  
You said that hitting that switch had no effect on trying to start your coach up and that the solenoid was getting quite warm when it was energized.  I’m not sure what the fail rate is on the internal contacts, but it might not hurt to take a resistance reading across the terminals, with the wires safely removed of course.  😀.  Take a couple readings and let us know your numbers.   

Here the newbie go again.  When you said "with the wires safely removed, do you mean all the wires connected to the solenoid or just the purple and white wires only together with the diode?  Should I switch the battery disconnect to OFF position before removing all the wires?  I assume that  I will put the positive lead to where the purple wire used to be and the negative lead where the white wire used to be; is that a correct assumption?  Also, in taking the resistance measurement, which Ohms setting the multimeter dial should be; 2000K, 200k, 20k, 2000 or 200?   As I said, I am new to this so please bear with me.

Thanks....

52 minutes ago, Frank Bergamo said:

If your chassis batteries are above 13 volts, it is charging. Put your red lead of the volt meter on the positive, the black on the negative. Make sure your volt meter is set to DC current. Hope this helps.

Frank,

As I mentioned above, the battery voltage was measured 11.75 Volts and can't start the engine.  The chassis batteries was jump started using the house batteries.  After 40 minutes of idling and after turning off the engine, the batteries are measured to be 12.57 Volts.  The batteries were disconnected using battery disconnect switch.  Next morning, the batteries are measured to be 12.20 Volts (again, measured when the engine was off).  I did not get above 13 Volts measurement with the engine OFF.  Does that mean the shore power is not charging the chassis batteries?

2 hours ago, BradHend said:

That solenoid is what connects your house batteries in parallel with your coach batteries when you press the boost switch up front.  If it isn’t clicking, check for power (12VDC) at the solenoid terminals when pressing the boost switch. 

You *can* use the switch, but if it’s starting the engine, what’s the need to use it?

I have just asked my DW to press and hold the battery boost while I am listening to the sound of the solenoid.  I heard one click when my wife pressed and held the switch by approximately 5 seconds.  I also noticed that the solenoid was warm to the touch when the batteries are connected to the coach.  But when I disconnected the batteries using the battery disconnect, the solenoid feels cold.

What does that one click indicates?

47 minutes ago, BradHend said:

Positive lead on purple, negative lead on white.  When the switch is activated you should be seeing 12V.  If you hook it up backwards, it’s fine, your meter would just show -12V

As to why you experienced that in the first place…could be a pleather of things not even related to the battery.  I’d wait and see if it does it again, the problem will no doubt rear it’s head if there is something strange going on. 

Thank you Brad.  I will try that tomorrow.  I am learning a lot from this forum.

Another newbie question.  How do I know if the shore power is charging (or not) my chassis batteries?  What do I have to look out?  Use of multimeter for example?  How?

Thanks...