Martinvz

You can buy the complete assembly (arm and mf switch) at Brazels or just the multi-function switch at about half the cost. All depends on where the problem lies. 
 

I recently was looking to replace the unit on our coach because the wipers were going haywire. Thankfully the issue has not recurred since the middle of July. Me thinks I need to buy a unit just to make sure that it works as expected. 

Contact Brazels RV, they have it in stock for the workhorse chassis.

They will match the parts to your specific chassis.

Contact Talin mfg and they will explain how to measure. Chris Trogmartin (owner) is a member here and he can look at the pictures you posted. 

Richard is right and that is what we do as well but not too well camouflaged. But we only keep a basement door key there and the others are in a door hanging lockbox in another basement locker. 

Frederic, Just a suggestion: Have 3rd set of keys cut that you can hide somewhere on the coach, just in case of emergency.

Frederic and I had discussed this on a phone call. However he had not had any responses to his question.

I think you may get a larger target audience and possibly an answer by posting the same question on the Workhorse forum on FB. Also Brazels RV may have an answer as well. 

Hi Tom, Frederic and I had a conversation about this today.

On the LaPalma we have no electronic locks and no electronic controls such as the Intellitec or Kronsberg systems. All very manual, low tech and debatebly easy to fix.
So in terms of the keys, the basement storage has a fairly common key used for this purpose on many coaches (according to the local dealership) as is the key used on the door lock, to make it easy for the dealerships to open and close the doors on the lot. When it comes to the deadbolt, it is a unique key so that the coach is secured in your absence or when you you are home with the door locked.  Having the same key for the basement doors and the deadbolt defeats the security feature, imho. On the higher end coaches with electronic locks, there is less need for the safety aspect. Personally, it is like different passwords for different websites, more is better 😎. 
For simplicity, I can understand why Frederic would like to use the same key for the basement door locks and the deadbolt but I would not recommend it. 
Just my opinion as it relates to the lower end coach and our safety. 

I have not had that problem. I would suggest that you go to a RV dealer or locksmith that can cut the keys using the numbers for the correct key form. My keys  has 2 different forms (os slots). I gave no idea if they can do that just from the number. 

Frederic, I have 3 keys. One for the deadbolt on the door and one for the salesman key on the same lock. The 3rd key is for the basement door locks. The basement door locks only have on key. 
 

Now I’m jealous 

Tony, thanks for checking. That might put the kibosh to my purchase plan

However, it is still a standard GM 8.1 engine with some monitoring features turned off. It does not sound to as if they are working on adding Workhorse to their support as it is not worth their effort and I expect that would be true for most other units. That said, I still expect that it would work well on the engine.

You could spend a lot more and buy a used "GM Tech2" scan tool on-line, new or used. It is complex and not as easy to use.

That is good info from Tom. If you do not find a solution then do not hesitate to call Lippert. I had issues as well, not the same as you, and found Lippert willing to help and provide answers. You may not get a great support person first time, do call again. My outcome was more than satisfactory and that is why I encourage you to call them. 

Look at the Foxwell 301 OBD2 scanner. It has good reviews and cist abor $66 on Amazon. I do not have one yet but am looking at it. It has several really good features on it and it can also record all the data while driving for analysis later on. This is very useful to understand what is happening dynamically while driving. 
There are many options cheaper (but without the features) and a lot more expensive (and difficult to learn and understand).

Do your reviews and decide what features you want and really need. 

The “strip” at the top can be removed by turning the wings in the center to release the locks and the lifting it up.

CAUTION: there is battery acid in those holes that are now open. Keep your fingers out of the holes. Safety glasses and latex gloves would also be recommended. 
If you have easy access and can look into the exposed cells you should see that the tops of the plates are covered by fluid (battery acid)  If these are not, then add Distilled water (do not use tap water). 
If you cannot see into the cells, you could use your cellphone camera and a light source to see. Worst case you will have to remove the batteries to check.

Take pictures of your batter bank before you disconnect anything and keep it for future use.
You can disconnect the power by cutting your 120/240v source power and disconnecting the 12v by turning the cutoff switch. All power to the “house” will be off. You can now remove one of the bridging cables on the battery bank so that each battery will only show its voltage. You can use a VOM (assuming you have one and know how to measure the voltage) my measuring the voltage between the positive  and negative post of each battery. The reading should be greater than 6v and preferably higher than 6.2v. If not, then replacement would be recommended.

If one battery is bad and the others appear tho be good then you could replace just the one with another of the same brand or, in an emergency with one of a different brand. The best is to replace all the batteries with net ones of one brand. Mike Sokol had a post just yesterday on this topic, see his Facebook group or website Rvelectricity.com). His site has a lot of useful electrical info that can help you with your questions.

Best batteries: There are many options and generally Trojan batteries are accepted as the best and most expensive. Duracell is a good alternative and can be found at Sam’s Club, Batteries Plus and other outlets. Costco carries Interstate batteries but I have not had great success from them and cannot recommend their GC2 batteries (golf cart battery) but many others will disagree with me. 

 I hope this all helps.

I have a similar problem with my outside temp display and dash radio that I have not resolved, yet. 
Apparently there is an always power wire to these devices that are not working as needed. On my coach the display is off. The radio works when turned on. The outside air temp has no display but if you press a button it lights up, for a few seconds.
So the main power line is working but the always on line has an issue. Your awning could be connected as well. I do not expect that the awning is on the same 12V line as your outside temp display but my dash radio and temp display could be on the same 12V ground wires as they are 1” apart. 
First to look at is a problem ground. 
Hoping some of the 12V electrical experts will assist. 

That is a good question that I do not know the answer to but need to do the research.  We do have CoachNet RSA. 
We just switched our insurance via FMCA to Progressive and saved a lot. I questioned them about the inclusion of RSA and the response was that as the OP stated, CN dies not cover it in the case of an accident but Progressive does for the first $xxx. I just need to find out what the $xxx is. 
Thanks wor asking that question. 

“Usually” automotive speakers are 4 ohm and home audio/ surround speakers are 8 ohm. But who knows what was installed.

Do you have a manual for the amplifier/receiver? The specs should clarify what is expected for each channel. Or google the manual and it should tell you. 
 

Hi Frederic, that is a great improvement, looking good !!

There is a pneumatic rivet gun available on Amazon for about $100 that is verry easy to use. See the beltline video made by Scotty and co. 

That is very strange as I have the first edition on my coach without any type of glue and I have not lost any. My son did the original design and printed these for me. I the shared the design that was edited and is now used  

I cannot think that the weep hole length for my windows is any different from any of the other coaches with the Atwood windows. 

For the W24 Workhorse chassis, there are a number of engine relays in the engine bay and these have been known to fail. Try swapping out the relay with one that is not immediately needed. It may be the cause of the issue.

That is always painful, first with the initial damage end then with the repair. I am sure the end result will be worth it.

Hi Les, That is not the visitors you want. Sounds like you have an infestation. Does your coach have a black tank flush (I think it might) and you should use it. I do not think using bleach in the black tank to kill them, is a good solution.

You could fill your black tank to the max and then drain it as fast as possible to remove as much gunk as possible. I use a hose and fill it from the toilet (because my flusher is blocked). Do this at least twice. 

An alternative is to get a tank cleaning service such as Kleen Tank to clean it with the appropriate tools using high water pressure. This is not a cheap service but could be worth it. 
 

I got good support from Lippert with my steps. They may be able to reference the latest motor model. Then look on Amazon if you can find it. 

A question for clarification: are you connected to shore power at home or in a campground?