JetAburner

I had the same issue. Service check code 3 (blinks). It was a bad water temp sending unit. Remove the top panel and you'll see it threaded into the rear left top of the head. Kinda tight to get to, but not bad. I was able to knock it loose with a standard combination wrench.

Check to see if you have a converter (if needed) to convert from euro style (coach) to combined (toad). If so, check it's function. I had one that failed. Next, my coach has a terminal block in the rear elect bay that takes one taillight wire and splits it. One to the coach, and one to the trailer plug, via the converter. The same thing for brake, and turn. When I bought my coach, it had a right hand brake and turn signal prob on the coach. Turned out it was missing the second wire from the split to the plug and they just tied into the the brake light wire in the plug. Removed that mess and added the second wire, problem solved. Hope this helps.

Good to know, thanks. We just recently dumped ATT and now our 5g phones and the T mobile wireless work great. None of them work perfect everywhere, but will definetly give it a try on the road.

I'm running Toyo 295/80s on my Windsor and love em. Yes, at highway speed the speedo reads slow, approx 5 to 7 mph, but I like how they drive and the higher weight rating. My nav GPS gives my exact speed. I didn't have a problem getting them, but then I used my old big rig tire shop. You should have better luck at a truck tire dealer.

Yes, I just looked into switching out my thermo. Looks like good reviews and I love the features. Bluetooth, phone app to remote control it, etc. Would have ordered one yesterday.  Problem is, I have the FOUR button thermo, and according to Easy Touch, I would also need to change out my AC control unit/units at $180.00 each as well. Think I'll wait.

I'm running 295 Toyos with no issues. And 295s have a higher weight rating. They look better too.

I like to manually shift keeping it between 1500-2000. I know that the ISC hits peak torque at 1200, and the book says you can WOT down to 1200, but after years of trucking, I don't like to pull em that low. On the other hand, the ISC doesn't like to twist high either. After 2000 your pretty much out of the torque range. Just my 2cents.

Thanks for the heads up. Perfect timing. Bought one to replace my old one.

This might work better.IMG_1705.zip

Hello Mike

OK, I'm back from the dead. Sorry for the delay. I took an HD pic of my front run bay schematic so hopefully you'll be able to make out the details. Let me know if it works for you. 

Best regards

Keith

Mine's the propane bay.

Hi Mike, sorry for the delay. Haven't forgotten about you. I'm in the middle of a few things right now, but I will be going down to the coach to do a couple things next week. I want to take my 35mm camera to get a REAL hi rez photo to put in my laptop then make a file to send you. Unless you want to meet me there to take a look at it. Either way works for me.

Dang it. If your not needing it right away, I'll get out my 35mm digital camera, shoot it, make a file in my computer and send it to your email if you like. It's no problem.  FYI, I see your in Rocklin Ca. We're in Orangevale Ca

Let me know if this works better for print. 

Just back from trip to Idaho. Unloading, cleaning, 😝  Sorry for the delay. Don't think there factory. Previous owner installed the sani-con macerator. He also either had the original pac brake installed or upgraded to its current PRXB version at which they would have set up the brake light relay for the pacbrake. Glad to hear it's close. Is everything legible? If not, I'll work on getting a better shot and can send it as a file.

Mike

This is on my Windsor. It looks close to yours.

Hello Mike

I'll be at my coach in a couple days. I'll compare mine to yours to see if the same. I have the diagram.

I always ran silicone coolant hoses on our big rigs and NEVER had a coolant hose blow in 20 yes. If your changing hoses or the short pipe to pipe hoses, I highly recommend  silicone. 

Love our '99. Heavy, but very solid. 8 bag, no trailing arm issue. Did have a cracked weld where the front/rear arm bracket is welded to the rear axle housing. Easy fix. Can easily tune it to 400hp. I understand there's injectors that will go 60hp over with no electronics. Great coach.

Mine was the oil fill hose where it connects to the engine. Cut off the factory crimp clamp and replace with a worm screw type hose clamp. Dry as a bone.

Mine was a clogged fuel filter. Very hard to start.  Also, noticed it would stall under heavy load. Figured it was fuel starvation. New filter solved the problem. Now in addition to Amzoil additive,  I'm using a fuel biocide as well.  Pops right off every time hot or cold now.

It happened on my '99. Both upper forward mounts on rear. Had a certified welder fab new ones. Was a real pita welding in such a tight area. We both agreed that an incomplete weld of the pin assembly was the culprit. Welded only halfway around the pin on both. Used to be in the trucking business, so cracked welds and broken suspension parts, not a surprise. Just look em over at every service.

Well said.

I too want outside sound. But Instead of installing permanent speakers through the wall, I'm attaching a Bluetooth sound bar to the top of the forward bay opening. Adding another 110v outlet will provide power. Using my Pandora on my phone will provide endless music independent of what's on or off inside the coach. Don't even have to turn it on as the higher end units have auto sleep mode and don't have any problems with on/off power situations that we can encounter  with our RVs.

You can drive any "house car" 40' or less with a C. Yes there special "house car" rules. The 26000lb rule is for any single vehicle excluding rv. Gave up my A year's ago.