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On 8/28/2022 at 7:16 PM, sg47619 said:

My 01 Monaco has a 20 ‘ carefree there’s a hole in the cover at the bottom of the motor where you can insert a 9/64th Allen wrench on a drill and turn the motor and open the awning. Also  there are 12V fittings Com out of it you can hook a battery pack to and open or close the Awing be sure and unplug the motor on the outside wall of the coach before using the 12V method, there’s a chance you can burn the controller up if you don’t. 

Anyone know where the Carefree awning controller - 04 Camelot 40pdq?

On 10/1/2021 at 7:59 PM, vito.a said:

Our transmission dip stick and filler tube are under the bedroom hatch.  

Also, be careful what transmission fluid they use.  Most commercial truck places do not use Allison Transynd as it is priced very high.  

Allison has a different maintenance interval for non synthetic trans oil.

My 04 Camelot 40PDQ has two duplex receptacles behind the fridge.  One duplex receptacle (upper) run on the inverter.  The below duplex receptacle is on shore power.  I converted the cooling unit to a compressor so I plug it into the inverter so it will run when not plugged into shore power.

6 hours ago, cbr046 said:

Let me start out by saying RESIDENTIAL REPLACEMENT IS NOT AN OPTION!
Making a long story long anyway, our Norcold 1200 has a hard time keeping 45F on an 80F+ day.  While traveling the inside temp goes to 55F-60F, depending whether it's night or day.  The cooling fins sit at 22F while camped, 37F while traveling.  The freezer back wall goes from -18 to +15 (sitting vs traveling).  At night the fridge will dip down into the high 30F's.  The collection tank (near the burner tube) will range from 100F to 148F (traveling vs sitting).  Performance is similar whether propane or AC.  The tank, fins and freezer temps were taken with a cheap IR gun that has proven to be inaccurate so consider those measurements"in the ballpark". 

The foil backed insulation had broken away on the boiling tube in two places.  I replaced that with galvanized ducting, 4" at bottom, 3" at top packed with rock wool. 

These changes made virtually no difference so I added secondary material to the door seals (EPDM window sealing from Home Depot).  oo  Still no change. 

The graph below is from a Govee H5074 and (I believe) accurate.  You can see when I open the door for loading (Wed, Thu), traveling on Friday until 6pm and Sun 3pm -midnight Mon am.  Sat eve the flat line appears the unit was satisfied with the temp setting (not sure what happened there). 

Yes, it's 18 years old and old enough to vote.  I'd like it to be old enough to drink adult beverages. 

Maybe I should have packed the rock wool more loosely?

The symptoms suggest there's outside air getting inside the box.  When I had the unit out I sealed with alum HVAC tape anywhere around the box I thought air could go that shouldn't.  Is there any sort of check valve in the fridge compartment condensate drain?

There *IS* a small yellowish spot 1/2 size of a small woman's pinky fingernail on one of the tubes (boiling, AC or flue I don't remember).  If boiling tube it could point to a classic ammonia leak.  No odd smells anywhere.  And the unit works . . . . mostly. 

One friend suggested 12V might be getting interrupted while traveling.  Without a long pair of wires from control board to dash I don't have a way to check this going down the road.  I believe this possibility is pretty remote. 

I'm trying to rule out all possibilities before ordering a JC Refrigeration (Amish) cooling unit . . . . or from someone else (there's a company in AR?).  $1500 is a LOT of money! 

Am I missing anything?  Thoughts? 

And again, with all the traveling + boondocking and not wanting to run the generator continuously, or invest in high dollar solar + batteries, residential fridge is not an option.

Best,

- bob

 

Could the temperature excursion be tracking with outdoor temperature?

5 hours ago, cbr046 said:

Let me start out by saying RESIDENTIAL REPLACEMENT IS NOT AN OPTION!
Making a long story long anyway, our Norcold 1200 has a hard time keeping 45F on an 80F+ day.  While traveling the inside temp goes to 55F-60F, depending whether it's night or day.  The cooling fins sit at 22F while camped, 37F while traveling.  The freezer back wall goes from -18 to +15 (sitting vs traveling).  At night the fridge will dip down into the high 30F's.  The collection tank (near the burner tube) will range from 100F to 148F (traveling vs sitting).  Performance is similar whether propane or AC.  The tank, fins and freezer temps were taken with a cheap IR gun that has proven to be inaccurate so consider those measurements"in the ballpark". 

The foil backed insulation had broken away on the boiling tube in two places.  I replaced that with galvanized ducting, 4" at bottom, 3" at top packed with rock wool. 

These changes made virtually no difference so I added secondary material to the door seals (EPDM window sealing from Home Depot).  oo  Still no change. 

The graph below is from a Govee H5074 and (I believe) accurate.  You can see when I open the door for loading (Wed, Thu), traveling on Friday until 6pm and Sun 3pm -midnight Mon am.  Sat eve the flat line appears the unit was satisfied with the temp setting (not sure what happened there). 

Yes, it's 18 years old and old enough to vote.  I'd like it to be old enough to drink adult beverages. 

Maybe I should have packed the rock wool more loosely?

The symptoms suggest there's outside air getting inside the box.  When I had the unit out I sealed with alum HVAC tape anywhere around the box I thought air could go that shouldn't.  Is there any sort of check valve in the fridge compartment condensate drain?

There *IS* a small yellowish spot 1/2 size of a small woman's pinky fingernail on one of the tubes (boiling, AC or flue I don't remember).  If boiling tube it could point to a classic ammonia leak.  No odd smells anywhere.  And the unit works . . . . mostly. 

One friend suggested 12V might be getting interrupted while traveling.  Without a long pair of wires from control board to dash I don't have a way to check this going down the road.  I believe this possibility is pretty remote. 

I'm trying to rule out all possibilities before ordering a JC Refrigeration (Amish) cooling unit . . . . or from someone else (there's a company in AR?).  $1500 is a LOT of money! 

Am I missing anything?  Thoughts? 

And again, with all the traveling + boondocking and not wanting to run the generator continuously, or invest in high dollar solar + batteries, residential fridge is not an option.

Best,

- bob

 

Could that be the periodic defrost in the door divider going off?

Isn't your display indicate you are on shore power?  If so your inverter isn't going to supply the 120VAC.

On 6/4/2021 at 11:28 AM, TigerMar said:

Hi all,

Wondering if anyone has seen a connection like this before?  Changing out house batteries and I discovered this in the battery bay after removing old batteries. Was not attached to batteries as far as I could tell. 
 

thanks for any help

Battery thermister.  Batteries are charged based on temperature and charge.

On my 2004 Camelot it was low coolant.  The coolant purge tank leaks a bit and needs to be replaced.

1 hour ago, bobstromain said:

Anyone know where the 12 volt fuse supplying the Norcold is located on an 04 Windsor? I am changing the control board.  I can probably just pull the  12 v wires apart but prevent any problems I would like to kill the 12 v at it's source  

Thanks 

Bob St. Romain

04 windsor

You aren't referring to the one on the control board are you?

2 hours ago, michaelivan said:

The Suburban water heater in our 2003 Windsor suddenly quit working on gas.  Worked fine last night but when we tried to turn it on this morning...nothing.  I have checked and replaced both fuses ( in the fuse panel and under the counter).  Power to the switch but nothing happens at the water heater itself.  Where should I look next?

The gas is on?  Can you hear it try to ignite?  There is water in the water tank, right?  Does it work on 120VAC?  

If it tries but does not ignite, check to see if the ignition box is clean.

If you can't hear it, are your batteries up or low?  The water heater needs 12V to ignite.

I ask this because the water heater does have an overtemp feature that will need to be reset if it over heated.

If it will run on 120VAC then it is a gas related only issue but could be low 12V.

On 8/10/2021 at 5:34 AM, John Haggard said:

Fuse socket needs replaced 

Your either making contact or your not 

Play around with the latch 

If by accident a shorter fuse was used, you may not be able to get it out.  If you are careful, you might be able to use a small enough wooden dowel with a drop of super glue to stick to the fuse and pull it out.

On 8/10/2021 at 4:42 PM, Grampy OG said:

Can the motor/blade be removed from inside or is it a rooftop job?

 

I swapped mine out from the inside.  You can buy the fan/motor if you are sure it is the motor.  I bought the whole thing because the control unit was bad.  Replaced from the inside.

On 6/24/2021 at 5:49 AM, powersltc said:

I have looked everywhere and can not find a fuse marked bedroom.   

 

When the switch is pressed,  there is a sound. 

Click or whirling sound?  If a click it might be bound up or the gear missing teeth.  If whirling sound it is a gear, shear pin or track issue.  BTW, some of the gears are no longer available new and you might have to look for used.  I ran into that case with the 21 tooth Lippert gear.  Found a shop that had an old one in a box in the shop.

4 hours ago, drewat2 said:

One of our fans has died. I've read that they are not up to old standards since Dometic bought them out. Is a Maxxair a suitable replacement or should I stick with Fan-Tastic

If you stick with the fantastic fan, you can pull the motor/fan and replace it with the new one in ten minutes.  You can replace the vent cover pretty easily as well or wait til you need to.

04 Monaco Camelot 40PDQ. Anyone know how to get to the dash HVAC blower motor to replace it. I confirmed the resistor pack is good as the fuse in the resistor pack was blown, so I replaced it. It looks like 5 hours of labor and a $100 blower, unless I do it. Then it is 8 hours of labor plus $100 blower motor..