JJMonaco

I am not familiar with the RC6 control panel.  However, I saw it in the operators manual.  I have the RV 3012 with the RC7 control panel.  The 2012 is listed in my  manual along with the RC6.  It says that the RC6 has the ability to turn the inverter off and on so the cable might be the cause. If the inverter was still working when the RC6 went dark that could be a communication cable issue. 

Have you checked you batteries with a volt meter to see what the resting voltage is with no load on them and also what the voltage is when the inverter shows its charging.  When resting for a couple of hours after a charge they should read at or above 12.5 volts-12.8v would be fully charged if they are in acceptable condition.  When charging the voltage should work its way up to 14.1 to 14.4 volts.  If your batteries are weak that could cause the inverter to shut off.  Have you cleaned the battery connections lately? 

I am enclosing a pdf of the manual for you.

JJ

RV3012_owners.pdf

Need more info troubleshoot…

What Inverter do yoou hav

Sorry for the typo-

What inverter do you have?

There usually is a communication cable (like a telephone cord)between the control panel and the inverter.  The connection could have corrosion.  You could spray the cable connector ends with electronics cleaner.  Un-plugging and re-plugging it at the inverter and control panel a couple of times to exercise the connections.  That would be a place to start.

JJ

I agree with vito.a.  Good quality six volt golf cart batteries are the best in your situation.  As the old saying goes-"If it ain't broke- don't fix it"

All The Best,

JJ

I had a similar situation.  It could be a bad alternator or a connection issue or many other ...

The problem I had turned out to be the battery isolator was bad.  My coach is a 2002 Signature Centurion so I'm not sure if your coach as the same setup.  It is located in the engine compartment in an enclosed area on the right side.  The middle connector on the isolator is where the alternator connects.  You can see in the photo it is charred.  I replace it  with a 200 amp cole hershey unit I found on ebay and that took care of that issue.

JJ

Yes I agree - for ultimate safety the Aqua. Hot bay would be the best choice from a safety standpoint. 

Thanks,

JJ

Dr4Film,

Thanks for the reply.  I ordered the Viair 450c today and will follow your lead installing it.

All The Best,

JJ

Did you extend the 12v wire that was the original power source.  Mine has an in line 15amp fuse.  I am wondering If I need to run a heavier gauge power wire?  In reading the specifications for the Viar 450C it shows a max 12v amp draw of 23 amps.

I had correspondence pending with him about two weeks ago and haven't heard back from him.  Hope he is OK!

I am pretty at clumsy using this site and don't know how to send a PM to you.  Can you give me insight?

I seem to be spinning my wheels and not making any progress on troubleshooting the air system.

Once again thank you for all the info.  I have seen some of it before.  I had not seen the 2000 troubleshooting manual and have been studying it.

I am still not sure if my system is a 2000 or a 680.  The AP number on the control box is 14721.  The touch control I have does not have a button for the travel mode.  

I am going to have a look at the control box today and try to determine which system I really have. I will look to see if it has the 2000 system led's to check the operational features.

Thanks,

JJ

Duey,

Thanks for the photos.  The components on your manifold look similar to mine. I think they are the same parts.

Before I try to take the manifolds off the coach I tested all the connections.  My rear manifolds are pretty corroded and I am concerned about being able to remove the solenoids.    How do you remove the solenoids?  When removing the pressure switches do they just unscrew from the manifold?

I disconnected the connectors for the solenoids and pressure switches one at a time and checked them with an ohm meter.  Both rear manifolds only have  solenoids-no pressure switches.  They all had 15 ohms reading, so I am assuming that means they are ok?  On the front manifold the solenoids check out at a little over 14 ohms.  I assume that means they are ok.  However one of the two 20lb pressure switches on the front manifold showed an open connection and the other showed it was shorted.  Does that mean they are both bad?  I had the air dumped from the system when I was testing.

I need to replace the Aux compressor.  Is the one in your photo the Viair 450C?

Here’s a couple of photos of the rear and front manifolds and my old Aux compressor.

Thanks,

JJ

Thank for  the  parts information!

 I’m a newbee about this HWH system and do not know how to make a positive identification of the HWH system number my coach has.  

Is my 2002 Signature Centurion with tag axel have the same model HWH system as your 2004 Executive?

I think mine is a 2000 series according to P Maddox.

I want to order some spares but want to make sure they are the corrrect ones for my coach.  When I am under the coach I am not able to read any part numbers on the solenoids and pressure switches, etc.

I have questions about testing pressure switches and solenoids with an ohm meter but will start a new thread so this one doesn’t get hijacked.

Thanks,

JJ

For the record, I like Ivylog’s method for the blocking up the back of the coach. Sounds like it should work…and who doesn’t like being frugal?  Live & learn.

My actual cost for the lumber and screws was $145.  I used longer lengths of 16’ , 12’ , & 10’ to come up with the lengths I needed.  

I think this is an example of how cool this site is for exposing our cumulative brain power.  Lets keep it coming!

JJ

I blocked the front and back of the front tires as well and the dumped the air before going under.  I think for working on the rear of the coach it's about as safe as it can be.  

Dan,

Yes they work fine and give enough room to access the rear manifolds located above the drive axle with the system air dumped.  I built four separate ramps to accommodate the drive  tires.  There is just enough room for me to use a creeper I purchased from Harbor Freight to roll under the coach.  On the down side--they are very heavy and will require some storage room. The levels are minimally screwed together so they are easily disassembled if desired.

The lumber is 2 x 12's from Lowes

Dimensions are 6,' 5', 4', 3' and top board is 27".  I cut a 45 degree angle on each step face and then used a grinder to take off the sharp edge. Each level is screwed onto the level below with 3 or 4 galvanized exterior screws 2 1/2" long.  I pre-drilled a hole for the screw  in the upper level to minimize cracking.

All The Best,

JJ

Does anyone have the part numbers and a source for HWH air leveling components?

I need to purchase replacement solenoids and 20#  and 85# pressure switches for my 2002 Signature 40.

Thank You,

JJ

That's a great idea! 

18 hours ago, SteveC said:

Bill, it depends on what you are wanting to do. Blocking between the frame and the suspension allows for changing the air bags and working on the control valves safely. The ramps allow more room between the suspension and the ground but doesn't keep the body from coming down onto the frame. There are probably times where you might want to do both.

As mentioned by others in previous posts. There's a lot of ways to build ramps.   In my case I've got HWH issues with travel mode leveling and the automatic leveling.  That's going to require a lot of testing of the three banks of solenoids & pressure switches to find what's not working. I will eventually be removing, repairing and or replacing manifold components.  For safety I'm using ramps and blocking.  I completed my rams yesterday and will be cutting up an 8 x 8 and a 4 x 6 to make my blocking material.  After that the fun starts...

Glad to hear about your ramp. 

I must be on the right track.  I tried a similar thing using 2x12's last week.  I was trying to raise the front end of the coach.  I had a problem with the boards sliding away.  I screwed the stack together and still had one side that slipped forward when I drove up on them.  I started out with a board length of six feet and reduced the length on each step. I have five 2 x 12's in the stack.  I set it up in steps about 7 to 10" on each side.

As I thought about, could my tire pressure make a difference?  I checked the side that was slipping away and it was 15lbs down from the side that was not slipping.   I got that front tire pumped up now.   So today I will give it a try again. 

How did you setup your board stack and what lengths did you use?  Have you used this for the rear dual tires to raise the back?

Thanks,

JJ

2002 Monaco Signature 40 Centurion

Hello,

I need to service My HWH manifolds/six-packs/pressure valves, aux compressor,etc.  I have been reading a lot of good info here on troubleshooting issues, finding and repairing leaks and replacing components in the HWH system.  It is always mentioned to block up the chassis before going under the coach to work on it.  I need some insight on how you guys did the blocking to give you room to work and protect yourself and the coach.   I dumped my air bags today and slid under for a quick look and soon realized there's no room to work when the air bags are deflated, especially where the rear manifolds are located above the drive axle.  What procedure did you follow and where did you put the blocking material?  What materials did you use to block it up.

Thank You,

JJ

2002 Signature 40

Two of the motorized side windows shades are not working on my 2002 Signature.  I have checked the switch and there is 12 volts present when activated.  So I am thinking the shade motor must have died.  I’m looking for guidance of manufacturers name and if the motor replacements are still available? If so, how to disassemble and where to get the part?

Thanks,

JJ

Thank you's to: willbo777, Ivan K, Chuck B, and waterskier_1 for you input,  wiring diagrams, etc.  That info has jumped me fwd in knowledge a lot of steps.  I found the solar controller above the fridge on my 02 Signature. (thanks Ivan K)  It's an RV 30D controller.

In my battery bay there is a temp sensor and two 12 ga. orange wires and another wire that looks like a 24 ga speaker wire that terminates in a lug with an 1/4" hole that were just hanging there.  I put the sensor on the house battery with a bit of adhesive.  One of the two orange wires connects to the same lug the house battery connects to.  The other orange wire is coming through the back wall. - -(I'm speculating maybe from the solar controller) It had a voltage reading of 13.5 v which was higher than either the chassis or coach house batteries.  I have no idea what the other wire with the lug is for unless it is a ground connection for the temp sensor?

I just had cataract surgery this morning, so will be out of commission for a week or so until the eye heals.  I am looking forward to get back to working on the coach. Once again thanks for your help.

All The Best,

JJPreview attachment IMG-3371.JPG [Image] 2.8 MB.URL

On 10/10/2021 at 7:01 AM, willbo777 said:

Usually the stock single solar collector only trickle charges the chassis batteries.

Thank You for the info.

JJ

I am new to the site and have been spending a lot of time reading posts.  There’s a lot of info here…What a great group this is!  

I purchased a 2002 Signature 40 a few weeks ago and am just getting to know it.  I have studied the owners manual and still I have a lot of questions.  My wife and I are former long time live aboard-cruising sailors and I am very familiar at living on 12volts.  However the coach is a bit more complicated electrically than the boat.  So he we go…  The charging system: I am not sure everything is working correctly.

The coach seems to be pretty much original from the electrical stand point.  It has what I believe is the original solar panel on the roof.  I doesn’t seem to be charging the batteries.  I do have the electrical manual and have been studying it intensely, however I don’t see any info on the solar panel wiring.  The only thing I have found is there is a supposed to be a ground wire on the low amperage plate negative strip in the driver-side engine area.  I could use some in site on where or if there is a controller for the panel, where the wiring goes once inside the fridge vent, and where it is supposed to finally hooks into the 12V electrical system.  After I get that figured out I will move deeper into the high current plate operation, big-boy testing, battery saver, …

Thanks,

JJ