SteveC

51 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Project Farms did a story on this - https://project-farm-tools.com/penetrating-oil/

and a video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

I'm definitely a 50/50 mix guy now. 

- bob

I really liked the video. Rather than tell you the results, they show you the process. Awesome. Jim, thanks for sharing.

On topic and a little off topic. I read a study of several of the different rust-buster solutions on removing bolts. While everything did something (WD-40, PB Blaster, Kroil Oil, etc.) the top solution was a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF fluid. I haven't tried mixing a batch yet (haven't needed to remove anything rusty) but will give it a try. Story link: https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/printthread/Board/2/main/75235/type/thread

There may be some things that a non-OEM part is as good as an OEM but when you get to Cummins engine parts I would go OEM unless stranded with no other option. As a former automotive machinist I would also use a quality straightedge to verify the flatness of the mounting surface before installing. 

43 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

So, the R blinker works until you turn on the headlights? You have a bad ground as It’s getting a ground through the headlight until you turn it on is my educated guess.

I was going to suggest the same issue. I agree with Bootlegger that it sounds like a ground issue.

The length of the wire won't really make a difference (unless you go crazy). What will help prevent errors in the multiplex system is to solder the extension wires. I'm sure a crimp connector will work fine for a while, if the connector 'wiggles' even a little in the connector you may get an inconsistent signal back to the controller. Solder with shrink wrap will be a lifetime repair. My 2 cents (for what it is worth).

Check for voltage in the controller box itself. If you have power and ground, remove your keypad and connect directly to your controller box using a short cable. I got my cable from Amazon and it worked fine (link below). If it works, check the original wire from controller to keypad. I found mouse bites on mine. Repaired wire and all worked like new. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RFLMK5U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mine was also working fine one day and failed the next. Good luck.

4 hours ago, Tim-AZ said:

A difference in temperature between your diesel and electric high temperature thermostat or your electric element is not working.

Tim is correct. There is one more remote possibility. The diesel and electrical side of the AquaHot are controlled by two different 'control thermostats'. The diesel is marked 190 (operates 175-200) and the electric is marked 198 (185-210). This means that if there is little to no load on the AH system the electrical element will take care of things and the diesel will not kick on. IF the wires have been switched, your AH temp may be  controlled by the diesel control thermostat (rather than the electrical control thermostat). Like I said, this is a remote possibility. I would lean more toward the electrical side not functioning correctly.

1 minute ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Taking a picture of the fuse chart on the box cover was one of the first things I did. Those paper charts don't last long in wet conditions. Now, I hope I can remember where it is saved.

Gary 05 AMB DST

YES! I'm tired of putting things somewhere so I don't forget where they are and then forgetting where it is. I do have a photo app on my phone that gives the exact GPS location of a photo you take. Now, if I only knew how to read GPS numbers.

I see Tom sent you the 2004 Signature. I just took a picture of my 2000 Signature. Hopefully you can get what you need between the two.

If you are looking for a quality diesel pusher package, without breaking the bank, your search may be over.

For sale: 2000 Monaco Signature 42’ with single kitchen/living room slide. 500HP Cummins with Allison MD 4060 6-speed transmission with electric shifter. 112,000 miles. Package includes a 2014 Jeep Cherokee Limited with 76,000 miles and full flat-tow equipment. Jeep has a $0 deductible extended warranty that is good until 3/9/2026 or 120,000 miles, whichever is first (I will pay the transfer fee). Jeep update: New Big O tires were installed on the Jeep October 2021. Currently about 10,000 miles on them.

$84,000 for everything.

The motorhome and Jeep will be available May 1, 2023 after our last trip to Bennett Springs (trout fishing in Missouri). Tow equipment (7,500lb tow bar, Jeep tow plate, auxiliary braking (Patriot II), lighting) are all Blue Ox and the Jeep has had the Mopar flat-tow electronic package installed.

• Roadmaster 10 bag chassis with ABS disk brakes and HWH air leveling system • Interior cabinets are all solid cherry wood • Full-length queen bed • Dual pane windows for more efficient temperature control • Direct TV automatic satellite antenna (no receiver) • 27” Roku TV • New GE convection/microwave installed in 2021 • Outside mirrors are brand new (Oct 2022) Velvac triple-lens, heated, power mirrors • Four new NAPA AGM house batteries were installed in 2021 • New chassis batteries (Duracell HD) 2020 • The bus has three, 13.5K BTU AC/Heatpump units with a SoftStart RV installed on rear unit (over the bed) • 12KW Onan generator with 1480 hours • Upgraded inverter/charger (Xantrex Freedom SW3000 True Sinewave Inverter Charger) • Splendide washer/dryer unit with exterior venting • Ice maker and ice storage cabinet (new icemaker mechanism installed 2019) • Norcold 1200 dual-door refrigerator has had the JC-Refrigeration, Dutch Aire gas/electric cooling unit installed • 21’ Girard power awning with wind sensor return • 2 sliding storage trays (one is pass-through) • AquaHot water heat and zone furnace heating allows for long showers and uniform temperatures front to back in cool weather • InstaHot hot water unit at kitchen sink • BlueFire ECM reader with Amazon tablet for configurable dash gauges • All windows with new privacy and blackout shades (2017) Front windshield blinds are power • Flexsteel Easy Bed leather couch • 3-roof mount, 300W total, solar panels • Kenwood DDS9703X radio/Sirius radio/back-up camera/Bluetooth phone connection • LED marker lights • TST TPMS with 12 sensors (8 on bus, 4 on Jeep)

The 500HP Cummins pulls hills easily and the air bag suspension gives a smooth ride. The tag axle adds stability when driving in windy conditions. Set the cruise control and roll. Of course, no 20+ year old motorhome is without flaws. While the paint is in excellent shape there are three places where the clearcoat needs work. On the roof above the windshield, on the passenger side near the rear (about a 1’ x 3’ area), and the upper part of the entry door. See the pictures. The tires were installed new in 2016 (date code August of 2015) and have been covered any time the bus has been parked for more than three days. The sidewalls look like new. I know there is much debate regarding tire age so my plan this year (before we decided to sell) was to replace the two front steer tires because that is where the danger and damage happens from a blow-out. Between the tag axle and the duals on the drive axle, a blow-out in the rear would not have the loss of control and catastrophic damage of a steer tire blow-out. I’ve researched vehicle prices and feel that the package price of $84,000 is very reasonable considering the condition of both vehicles and the pre-installed tow equipment. I won’t even reply to low-ball offers. The bus is located in Columbia Missouri. If you have any questions or wish to have any additional photos, PM me and I will do what I can to meet your needs.

10 minutes ago, snoracer said:

Steve, do you have a photo of how you mounted the ipad.  Also have you had any problems with bluefire dropping off and then reconnecting?   I used a bluetooth dongle on my F350 powerstroke when I towed our 5th wheel, and I was very pleased with being able to see all the important info.  Sure hope this bluefire works out.

This is a link to the tablet holder I got on Amazon. I mounted it to the side drivers window. It doesn't block my view out the side or my view of the mirror.

The bluetooth does well. With recent firmware and software updates on the Bluefire, connections are stable. I found out my odometer showed 120,000 miles but the actual miles was only 112,000.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F24MH6I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As long as you have a dataport near the steering wheel (6 or 9 pin) you can add Bluefire. If your bus is a 6 pin, you will need to get a 6 to 9 adapter. I added Bluefire to my 2000 Signature and love it. It puts my instrument cluster (which I created) at eye level. I no longer need to bend forward to scan the gauges. The other thing I like is you can design your dash with either graphic or text gauges. Speed I like to see text numbers. Oil pressure, graphic gauge. Your choice. You can use both graphic and text on the same gauge.

41 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

I had that too and it was wrong setting for differential gear, by 15%.

What was weird was the odometer was/is off 13% but the speedometer is right on the money.

Tim, I believe it is a partial turn counter-clockwise. I also think it helps to push in on the cap as you turn. On my 2000 Signature there is a port on both sides of the steering column. I added the Bluefire to my bus and love it. No more leaning up to see all the gauges. I mounted the Amazon tablet to the drivers window so I can easily look over and it doesn't block my mirror view. Good luck.

PS: I knew my odometer was off a bit but when we scanned the computer it turns out that the odometer/trip meter show 120,000 while the actual engine/transmission data shows 112,000.

Kudos for following up with all steps and outcomes. It really helps others. Keep up the good work.

Annually I remove the covers and check the fins for dirt and wasp nests. The air is drawn into the coils so keeping them clean helps efficiency. I agree with Steven P. Be careful not to bend or damage the fins. I typically will use low pressure air and blow the dust out and blow the fins from inside to outside. I also keep an AC fin straightener on hand in case any need adjusting. 

If they are Velvacs, take a picture of your mirror arm and post it. I just replaced both mirrors on my 2000 Signature and have some good parts from the old mirrors and arms. 

It is always helpful when someone with a problem shares exactly what fixed their issue. Thank you very much.

It would always be helpful to include the part number you used so others don't need to search and possibly order the wrong item.

Twomed has a good suggestion. Heating 55F water will be warmer than 38F water. One final suggestion to add to the others is to verify that any faucet you have that has a shut-off onto the head (outdoor shower for example), make sure the water valves are off. If hot and cold valves are on but the head is off the cold water will back-feed to the hot. 

Georgia, first make sure your unit needs boiler fluid (propylene glycol) rather than regular automotive antifreeze (ethylene glycol). If you don't have your manual for your specific model you can find it here http://www.rvhydronicheaterrepair.com/RVHYDModelInfo.htm

If boiler fluid is needed you need to read what you are purchasing carefully. Like automotive antifreeze, you can find either concentrate (needs to be diluted) or pre-mix (do not dilute).

Amazon has concentrate (need to dilute to 40%-50%) so your quantity is doubled. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009D7A1LY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B009D7A1LY&pd_rd_w=IjX4e&content-id=amzn1.sym.88097cb9-5064-44ef-891b-abfacbc1c44b&pf_rd_p=88097cb9-5064-44ef-891b-abfacbc1c44b&pf_rd_r=X6VFN8W5M67R0GK5JF0V&pd_rd_wg=ibNQI&pd_rd_r=ec390ee5-2e54-424e-8612-c4dee458860b&s=automotive&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMExZUEVRMUNQRFpIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzk1MTI2Mkw0NkpXMlFNRFUwRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjU0MjIwMzhJOFpHNkRCSEhDQiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Good luck with your search.

The outside temperature and the inside temperature is the key. While the heat pumps will keep great temp inside down to about 35F (where it starts loosing efficiency) it doesn't do anything with warming the underbelly. People worry about fuel usage on the AH system because they read that the system uses .5 gallons per hour. What many don't realize is that is only when the burner is operating. If running the electric side of the AH along with the diesel side the diesel burner will only run when the electric can't keep up. That can be from zero fuel used when temps are around 40F to around 15 minutes per hour at 20F. This also depends on how warm you are keeping the inside of your coach. The water tanks are heated as well. When I arrive at a destination I turn both electric and diesel on. The diesel will run for a few minutes and then only run when I take a really long shower or the temps get low. I prefer the even heat and quiet heat of the AH over the heat pumps.

Now, regarding the engine heat switch. With your AH on, when you turn on the engine heat you circulate engine coolant through the AH boiler. The diesel burner will run some when you do this but the entire engine will warm up. When I'm staying somewhere cool I turn the engine heat on the night before we leave and the Cummins starts more easily.

I don't run my heat pumps unless traveling in cool weather. I start the generator and turn the front thermostat to 75 on heat pump. The dash heat can't keep up.

18 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

This is the kit I bought...

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08MWPFYJC/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is the CDN$

Should be cheaper in US.

Thanks so much.

2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Just ordered and received this tool from Amazon (first time anything I've ordered from them, made it to my door in 2 days 😀!).

What an amazing tool for the money! Loosens my overtorqued lug nuts with ease. 

Around here, you wouldn't be able to buy the included 7 large sockets, for the price of the entire kit!! 

I'm not seeing a link or a photo. Did you intend to add one? Thanks for the info.

I have yet to find an AquaHot heating element that has failed. There are so many other possible faults that need to be checked out first. I suggest downloading the service manual for your model unit and follow the troubleshooting guide. https://www.aquahot.com/Library.aspx

If you are not running a long extension cord I believe 20A is enough (nothing else powered).

Good luck.

1 hour ago, David Pratt said:

If you got 20 years out of the original chrome plating you are one of the very few lucky ones.

Space Coast Plating can turn your arms and bases around within two weeks after receiving them.

They also have Restored Arms and Bases in stock to exchange if they match up to yours and will ship next day after payment.

I also offer the option "at extra Cost" to weld the seams on the arms and it make them beautiful.

The cost to do or exchange your bases Start at $140.00 each depending on condition and the minimum cost to do or exchange the arms Starts at $140.00 and the price will depend on the length and condition of the arms.

I'm going to put Space Coast Plating in my address book for future reference. One of the key parts of my mirrors had corroded so badly that I was unable to separate the base from the arm.  I will definitely watch my new mirrors for any sign of flaking chrome and have them rechromed immediately (rather than waiting until I can't stand to look at them any more). Thanks for the info.