SteveC

A few have criticized the chrome on the Velvac mirrors. While it could have problems, my mirrors showed no sign of chrome peeling until 2020 (20 years since the bus was new) and that was two winters on Mustang Island, Texas. Not wanting to argue but 20 years ain't bad.

My trips to the Texas gulf coast had caused the chrome on my mirrors to disintegrate.

I found Pacific RV mirrors online. Here is a link for new arms if yours are like my 2000 Signature. If you send a picture of your mirror to jack@pacificrvparts.com he will point you in the right direction with the correct part numbers and pricing. They answer their emails quickly.  I had been unable to find anyone close to me that would do rechroming in a reasonable timeline or price. I hope this helps.

https://www.pacificrvmirrors.com/product-p/c709481.htm arm

https://www.pacificrvmirrors.com/product-p/c709491.htm base

If your unit is running an AquaHot then you can camp at almost any temperature. We were in Texas with our 2000 Monaco Signature during the February 2021 deep freeze. Temps dropped to 9 degrees Fahrenheit. Nothing froze.

Mike, I believe it would fit fine. Mine was cracked in several places and was cloudy from age. The new skylight will not have any holes drilled so you will need to do that. I positioned mine so I could mark where the original holes were and then drilled my holes between those marks. Recommend using Surebond SB140 Skylight sealant. 

Mark B is right on target. I ordered mine from eztops as well. My 2000 Signature used the following skylight. Measuring the actual dome measurements is challenging due to the curve at the bottom of the dome. Mine measured  34” x 34” x 16” x 25” x 16” OD 

Price included shipping. I didn't use the inner liner that was in my original dome.

Gary,

RV black and grey water tanks are made from ABS plastic. Epoxy and sealers do a poor job of sticking to ABS. Repairs to ABS use ABS plastic sheeting or shavings and either melt the materials together using heat or chemicals.

I suggest you remove all the white sealer around the joint and determine if it is cracked and broken. I had a fifth wheel black tank that had a crack on the drain neck. The previous owner had filled the crack with epoxy and sealer but it still leaked.  I used Plasti-mend with ABS mesh. Search for ABS repair kits and Plasti-mend kits. 

Good luck.

Bob H is only partially correct regarding MS Office going to subscription only. You can still get the Student and Home version that does not require annual payment. I don't believe it comes with cloud storage like the subscription model, though.

First, I understand how frustrating randomly occurring problems can be with a PC. I used to teach Cisco PC and repair and have some experience with situations like this. I've been keeping my wife's PC running for the past 11 years. Machine running Windows 10 (started with Windows 7) but can't be upgraded to 11 due to hardware. Machine started showing it's ass the past three or four months and I've pulled every trick out of my bag with limited success. 

The drivers for your hardware are probably contributing to your problems. Ten year old hardware is about 100 years behind what is out there now. 

I just ordered a new laptop for my wife. It will save me hours of frustration keeping the old one running. There are so many reasonably priced PCs out there that you will not spend anywhere close to what you did 10 years ago.

I always suggest making a list of what you actually do with your PC and what software you need to run on your PC. Often, people buy way more PC than they actually need. If your needs are mostly working with online accounts you may be able to get by with something as simple as a Chromebook. Here is a great article comparing laptop to Chromebook. https://www.cnet.com/tech/computing/chromebook-vs-laptop-whats-the-difference/

Good luck with either figuring out what demons are in your old laptop or with purchasing something new.

3 hours ago, klcdenver said:

Go to this link it will have all the info you need. I have done it to 2 motor homes and works well.

 

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/gas-door-prop-installed-241214.html

100% on the money. I did this to my 2000 Signature and it is one of the best upgrade mods yet. I agree with the author in the link regarding measure and check before drilling.

I just completed my installation of a new Lexan shower skylight (2000 Monaco Signature). Mine had both inner and outer but both were cracked. I spoke with the service people at EZ Tops. They said that most simply leave out the inner liner if it is damaged in any way. They could make an inner bubble slightly smaller than the outer one but the cost was double a single skylight. The Lexan bubble is supposed to be near unbreakable. (copied from a polycarbonate web site; Lexan is the strongest and can withstand impacts to such a degree that it won't crack. Instead, it displays resistance by bending. Plexiglass is still quite strong, but it may crack or chip, given enough time or impact. That's because it's a little less rigid than Lexan.) EZ Tops can custom make any size or shape skylight. I recommend SureBond SB140 Butyl Skylight Sealant when installing to ensure a flexible bond.

Was the reply only a face-to-face discussion or did they formally respond to your suggestions (which, by the way, appear very thorough and appropriately professional). If written, can you share with us?

37 minutes ago, Frank Bergamo said:

Here is what you need, little more than $100! https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/swing-arm-assembly-08408401-entry-door-hinge-p/190060.htm  Hope this helps.

 

Looks like a little less than $200. Do you have a different supplier than the link you sent? They are showing $194.33.

If you are a member of the Monaco RV Owners Facebook Group there is a pdf document in the files section that gives detailed instructions on replacing the scissor with a gas strut. The file is called Monaco_door_gas_strut_upgrade.pdf. I made the upgrade on my 2000 Signature and it greatly improved the door operation on my rig. If you do the upgrade, measure and plan carefully. Every rig is slightly different with regards to the measurements given.

I'd just like to clarify and caution that the connector is an RJ11 but it is not wired like a phone cable. It looks like a phone cable but the wires are not in the same order as a phone.

2 hours ago, William said:

Anyone have any preferred vendors that they can recommend? Looking for one piece windshield replacement here in the Titusville Fl area. Thanks guys

William, when I had to replace my one-piece windshield on my 2000 Signature, my insurance company worked with Safelite. It took them a couple of days to have it shipped in. They couldn't come to my home to install, though. I first contacted one of those online companies that promises to work with your insurance company but their pricing was over the top (quoted over $5,000).

32 minutes ago, Bill R said:

I am in the same situation as JJ to do some work on the air system under the coach.  It appears to me there are TWO methods being described.  ONE is using wood ramp to raise the entire coach and TWO blocking between the chassis and suspension.  Am I correct in what I am reading?  Is it best to do both methods or just one is needed for the best and safest approach to lifting the coach to check for leaks and work on the air system?

Bill, it depends on what you are wanting to do. Blocking between the frame and the suspension allows for changing the air bags and working on the control valves safely. The ramps allow more room between the suspension and the ground but doesn't keep the body from coming down onto the frame. There are probably times where you might want to do both.

6 hours ago, jjroxus said:

Hello,

I need to service My HWH manifolds/six-packs/pressure valves, aux compressor,etc.  I have been reading a lot of good info here on troubleshooting issues, finding and repairing leaks and replacing components in the HWH system.  It is always mentioned to block up the chassis before going under the coach to work on it.  I need some insight on how you guys did the blocking to give you room to work and protect yourself and the coach.   I dumped my air bags today and slid under for a quick look and soon realized there's no room to work when the air bags are deflated, especially where the rear manifolds are located above the drive axle.  What procedure did you follow and where did you put the blocking material?  What materials did you use to block it up.

Thank You,

JJ

2002 Signature 40

6 hours ago, jjroxus said:

JJ, on my 2000 Signature I use 4X6 treated lumber cut to length and placed between the frame and the suspension inside behind the front wheel and in front of the rear dual. I raised the coach as high as it would go and measured the gap. Cut my boards to be about an inch less than the gap. The boards sit solidly on the corner of the suspension frame.