Old Dog

Your aux air compressor is located between the rear bulkhead and the drive axle on the passenger side way up almost to the floor. 

My system DOES NOT have a pressure switch on the valve packs. It's either screwed into the ping tank (driverside opposite compressor) or in the line running to the ping tank.

Monaco didn't put any water seperation method in this aux system so switches, etc fail pretty quick.

Sounds like your switch is bad causing the compressor to run until it pops the relief. Quick fix is a new 90-120 switch but the best fix is to install an auto drain water seperator on the compressor outlet before anything else in the system.  Might want to at a minimum drain your ping tank, or drop and clean it out. You'll be disappointed what the inside looks like.

Hope this helps.

.This is what happens to a nozzle that sits for two years. The dirty one only had a couple hours on it but wouldn't even fire up.

Anybody have a part number for this dual switch assembly in the door frame.

Mine obviously needs replacement. Thx for the assist.

My 2007 ISX has a separate belt for just the AC.

The only issue is where in the system the repair is done and whether the circuit will need to be purged of air. Last I checked HWH still has that info posted.

Attached is the info on HWH Hose and fittings (HWH pulled this info down in 2017). Everything crosses over to Parker stuff and any Parker Portable Crimper  with the correct dyes will work. I've fixed 7 different leaks at crimped fittings. P/N for the female JIC fitting is 10656-4-4. I think the replacement hose info is 1/4" Parflex hose 100R8, P/N 520N-4 but I've never needed any. The only real challenge is getting enough hose out to the crimper, more of an issue in the back. ALL the hoses I've done have lots of extra, it's just coiled up in the Bay overhead between the frame rails.

The HWH hose on my rig has an outer protective plastic jacket with tiny pin hole "weep" holes in it. When it leaks at the crimp it fills the area between the core and jacket for several feet and will force or "leak" fluid for several days after the repair when under pressure so don't give up on your repair prematurely. Clean throughly with a good degreaser a couple times. I have never had a problem from any of the fittings I've replaced over the last 5 years.

Portable crimper runs $100.00 a day rental last year. They may have different types, either hand, elec or pneumatic.

Hope this helps.

More HWH Hose info, they sold a portable manual crimper for awhile.

I'm fairly certain HWH does not manufacture their own hose, they just have their own specs and the finished product is labeled HWH.

If the hose is just leaking at the crimp you can just crimp a new fitting on. I've done it to 6 different leaks.

I think there is also a "timing" adjustment. I have the same issue.

Might I suggest a auto drain water seperator as part of your install. If you spend any time in high humidity areas it will drastically increase the life of your pressure switch etc.

Last manual on the list is the one you're looking for.

You're the man Frank!

Totally agree on calling Valid. Excellent customer service and very helpful. One of the few still left.

The ride height issue on the rear shouldn't be a issue for a short, slow move. Front not so much because you would damage your fenders if you cycled the steering.

I've rebuilt both six pack 2 way valve bodies, haven't done the 4 pack 3 way tag axle valve pack.

The rear six pack is above and just behind the drive axle on the drivers side. NOT easy to get to because it's all the way up to the interior floor. Best to unmount the driver side ride height valve to give you a little room, you don't need to disconnect the 2 air lines. Tag Axle 4 pack is right in front of that one. The front six pack is dead center in the middle above the front axle.

If the problem is just a soleniod it makes things much easier. Each soleniod has a 2 wire plug connector, one black ground and one color coded for each position/function. I only wrote down 3 the of the colors/position but through a process of elimination it's the soleniod opposite the red wired soleniod, see attached schematic. Valid may be able to confirm the color coding. Not 100%, but 99% sure

Up to you on how you choose to get inder the coach. I pull mine up on block ramps and completely air everything down but you're not actually doing anything on the air side.

Once you've identified the correct sloeniod simply unplug the connector, remove the large pressed steel nut from the top and the soleniod slides off. Be careful NOT to lose the thick plastic spacer washer under the soleniod. It may or may not come off with the soleniod.

Make sure the spacer goes on before the soleniod and reassemble in reverse order. Don't put it on upside down or it can't plug it back in. The new replacement soleniod will come with a better steel nut and I use the new ones. Don't gorilla tighten them, it could damage the soleniod coil or casing.

Reinstall the ride height valve and test.

All you need are long arms, some flexibility and patience.

I could of taken photos if this came up early because I was down there testing a repair. Attached an exploded view.

Here's a copy of the best schematic I've been able to come up with but no wire color coding. You can see where I labeled the red wire.

There is a specific process using the key pad to reset "level". Do an internet search for the Service Manual, contains a wealth of info. I'm attaching photos of the manual and instructions for setting level on page 33, Performing zero set.

Hope this helps

As to your second problem on the Travel mode that sounds like a ride height issue and that info is in your Coach owners manual. If you need a copy you can download it on the Monaco web site. The 2007 manual doesn't give a ride height but the 2006 manual lists 9" and that's what I use. The actual valves aren't all that reliable, I got one that was bad out of the box.

The ride height issue on the rear shouldn't be a issue for a short, slow move. Front not so much because you would damage your fenders if you cycled the steering.

If the bushing are worn out, it's pretty safe to say the shocks are as well.

I may be wrong but I don't think Toyo's are going to be any cheaper but I wouldn't use anything else on the front except Michelin and toyo. Just my 2 cents.

Mine refused to go in once and it turned out to be the motor thermal protection. It was so hot outside it tripped the protection. I was surprised it was that low. Had to wait for the sun to go down and it to cool off. Don't think this is your issue but something to consider.

I learned from Cummins a couple days ago that my engine was shipped to Monaco without a dip stick or so they claimed. The parts rep started that the air compressor governor and dip stick were supplied by the customer. In my case I would have to go to REV I guess. No idea how accurate that info is or how widely that affects other models. My 525hp ISX was an upgrade so that my explain my scenario.

I would also add the Compressor Unloader Hose, 1/4" briaded steel hose that runs from the Air Governor to the Engine Air Compressor. Found mine leaking at both crimps. Has to be tested with the engine running.

How much does it cost? Might buy a spare. A lot of the electronics for these things are getting harder or impossible to find.

Here's their number

Had the same "gremlins" from a bad ballast. Would take out all the Intelletic in the back half of the coach. Convert all of them to LED tubes.

After a second call to Cummins I found out the Air Governor, Dip Stick and umloader hose were not shipped on the engine to Monaco. So it's a Monaco part, explains why the crimps were leaking. That's the 7th & 8th hose crimp to leak on various system hoses. I've worked with 1000's of hose and have never seen so many bad crimps. Still waiting for the replacement to test for leaks and confirm this was the source of all my frustration.

Forgot, has anyone got the schematics for this air system that includes the 12vdc aux compressor? 2007 and later with the Valid System. Thx

Cummins couldn't find it in their parts break downs. It's a 24" dash 4 hose, with a -4 JIC Swivel on the compressor end and a -2 Male NPT on the Governor end. Going to take 3-5 days to get the -2 fitting in to make a new hose.

Worst part is that hose assembly was leaking at both factory crimps and the hose itself is rated over 4 digits. It only handles 125-130 psi.

It's the hose from the Governor to the Compressor and unloads the compressor until needed.

If you ever have an air leak that only shows up when the engine is running, check this hose assembly. I pressurized the system with a shop compressor, key on in travel mode and park brake off. No leak, started the engine and you could see both front/rear dropping. The Governor senses pressure off the wet side of the front tank. As best I can tell there is no check valve between the wet side and rear tank. Only check valve is between dry tanks. Correct me if I'm wrong on that one.

Does anyone have the correct air system prints for a 2007 Executive with the Valid Leveling system AND includes the Aux air compressor? Ones I have are 2006 and earlier and none show the small 12vdc aux compressor. Thx

Does any have the part number handy for the braided steel hose running from the air governor to the compressor, I think it's referred to as the unloader hose. Working on a 2007 Cummins IISX. Found several listed but can't tell from the description if they are correct and don't want to buy the wrong one. Thx

Valid 250-832-6477 or 1-888-632-6477.

Earlier someone commented that 2006 is HWH but I believe it was still a Valid system as a joint venture. Does your control panel have BOTH  Valid & HWH on it? I have tech literature that has both names on it and everything I can tell is identical to Valid exclusive systems. I'm sure someone can clarify the relationship.

Hope this helps.