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Old Dog

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Old Dog last won the day on June 20 2022

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Required Information

  • FirstName
    Don
  • Make
    Monaco
  • Model
    Executive Matterhorn
  • Year
    2007
  • City & State
    Mossyrock, WA

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Community Answers

  1. .This is what happens to a nozzle that sits for two years. The dirty one only had a couple hours on it but wouldn't even fire up.
  2. Anybody have a part number for this dual switch assembly in the door frame. Mine obviously needs replacement. Thx for the assist.
  3. The only issue is where in the system the repair is done and whether the circuit will need to be purged of air. Last I checked HWH still has that info posted.
  4. Attached is the info on HWH Hose and fittings (HWH pulled this info down in 2017). Everything crosses over to Parker stuff and any Parker Portable Crimper with the correct dyes will work. I've fixed 7 different leaks at crimped fittings. P/N for the female JIC fitting is 10656-4-4. I think the replacement hose info is 1/4" Parflex hose 100R8, P/N 520N-4 but I've never needed any. The only real challenge is getting enough hose out to the crimper, more of an issue in the back. ALL the hoses I've done have lots of extra, it's just coiled up in the Bay overhead between the frame rails. The HWH hose on my rig has an outer protective plastic jacket with tiny pin hole "weep" holes in it. When it leaks at the crimp it fills the area between the core and jacket for several feet and will force or "leak" fluid for several days after the repair when under pressure so don't give up on your repair prematurely. Clean throughly with a good degreaser a couple times. I have never had a problem from any of the fittings I've replaced over the last 5 years. Portable crimper runs $100.00 a day rental last year. They may have different types, either hand, elec or pneumatic. Hope this helps. More HWH Hose info, they sold a portable manual crimper for awhile. I'm fairly certain HWH does not manufacture their own hose, they just have their own specs and the finished product is labeled HWH.
  5. If the hose is just leaking at the crimp you can just crimp a new fitting on. I've done it to 6 different leaks.
  6. I think there is also a "timing" adjustment. I have the same issue.
  7. Might I suggest a auto drain water seperator as part of your install. If you spend any time in high humidity areas it will drastically increase the life of your pressure switch etc.
  8. Last manual on the list is the one you're looking for. You're the man Frank!
  9. Totally agree on calling Valid. Excellent customer service and very helpful. One of the few still left.
  10. The ride height issue on the rear shouldn't be a issue for a short, slow move. Front not so much because you would damage your fenders if you cycled the steering. I've rebuilt both six pack 2 way valve bodies, haven't done the 4 pack 3 way tag axle valve pack. The rear six pack is above and just behind the drive axle on the drivers side. NOT easy to get to because it's all the way up to the interior floor. Best to unmount the driver side ride height valve to give you a little room, you don't need to disconnect the 2 air lines. Tag Axle 4 pack is right in front of that one. The front six pack is dead center in the middle above the front axle. If the problem is just a soleniod it makes things much easier. Each soleniod has a 2 wire plug connector, one black ground and one color coded for each position/function. I only wrote down 3 the of the colors/position but through a process of elimination it's the soleniod opposite the red wired soleniod, see attached schematic. Valid may be able to confirm the color coding. Not 100%, but 99% sure Up to you on how you choose to get inder the coach. I pull mine up on block ramps and completely air everything down but you're not actually doing anything on the air side. Once you've identified the correct sloeniod simply unplug the connector, remove the large pressed steel nut from the top and the soleniod slides off. Be careful NOT to lose the thick plastic spacer washer under the soleniod. It may or may not come off with the soleniod. Make sure the spacer goes on before the soleniod and reassemble in reverse order. Don't put it on upside down or it can't plug it back in. The new replacement soleniod will come with a better steel nut and I use the new ones. Don't gorilla tighten them, it could damage the soleniod coil or casing. Reinstall the ride height valve and test. All you need are long arms, some flexibility and patience. I could of taken photos if this came up early because I was down there testing a repair. Attached an exploded view. Here's a copy of the best schematic I've been able to come up with but no wire color coding. You can see where I labeled the red wire.
  11. There is a specific process using the key pad to reset "level". Do an internet search for the Service Manual, contains a wealth of info. I'm attaching photos of the manual and instructions for setting level on page 33, Performing zero set. Hope this helps As to your second problem on the Travel mode that sounds like a ride height issue and that info is in your Coach owners manual. If you need a copy you can download it on the Monaco web site. The 2007 manual doesn't give a ride height but the 2006 manual lists 9" and that's what I use. The actual valves aren't all that reliable, I got one that was bad out of the box. The ride height issue on the rear shouldn't be a issue for a short, slow move. Front not so much because you would damage your fenders if you cycled the steering.
  12. If the bushing are worn out, it's pretty safe to say the shocks are as well.
  13. I may be wrong but I don't think Toyo's are going to be any cheaper but I wouldn't use anything else on the front except Michelin and toyo. Just my 2 cents.
  14. Mine refused to go in once and it turned out to be the motor thermal protection. It was so hot outside it tripped the protection. I was surprised it was that low. Had to wait for the sun to go down and it to cool off. Don't think this is your issue but something to consider.
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