Georgia Mike

I checked the trailer plug yesterday a little more and didnt find any bad splices. I found the 2006 schematics and found a tow marker relay and the rear run bay. I am wondering if that relay might be bad and causing some of wires to be dead. looking at the schematics i cant seem to find where the fuses are for the trailer plug turn signals and brake lights. My next step is put a wire tracer(toner) that i have from working at the phone company to try and find out where these dead wires at the plug go. I only have next week to figure this out because im leaving next Sunday on a trip.  

Thanks Woody, yes it is welded on correctly. I have been talking with Scott at Source and he told me to take out the restrictor valve first to see if that helps. I have another thread in cooling systems that explains the problem im having with it. next step would be to check the allen screw and make sure its backed out 4 3/4 turns. 

No amber colored lights so i dont think i have the converter your talking about. There has to be another fuse section somewhere unless im totally missing something in the front and rear run bays.

I have owned my Dynasty for a little over a month and so far I have replaced skylight due to leak, replaced electronic fan control with wax valve(still not working right) trying to fix front driver side leaking down in an hour, Jake bake stuck on (can’t disengage it) installed 100watt solar system because batteries kept draining down to fast, going to order Amish cooling unit for Norcold that has very rusted pipes and now trying to get this wire harness plug to work. With a test light all I get constant power on one spade and the running lights on another. No left and right turn signal and no brake lights. The tail lights on the. bus work fine just the plug has the problems. The bus has a brake controller installed and it looks like a 3 wire harness is spliced into the plug harness just in back of the plug. Is there a separate fuse for just the plug harness? I have looked in both front and rear run bays and can’t find anything labeled that has anything to do with it. I am leaving in a week on a trip and want to get this fixed before I go any help would be appreciated 

My problem sounds very similar as Mikes. My Dynasty leaks down on the front drivers side in less than an hour. I replaced a valve in the rear and a fitting in the front generator compartment both you could hear but it still leaks down the same. I tried to listen underneath for any more hissing but don’t hear anything else. Next step is to start with the soapy water spraying on all the fittings. Is there any particular problem area that I should look at first?

Thanks for the link….So what your saying from what I read that someone may have changed the ECM settings to have the Jack brake on all the time?  I haven’t looked under the dash near the accelerator pedal but does this box in the picture add a separate pedal or a switch to the back of the accelerator pedal?

Thanks for the replies. It is the isl 400 and I haven’t taken apart the panel to look at the switch. I can use the cruise control just fine thankfully but as soon as I tap the brake or turn off the cruise control the Jake brake is on. I don’t believe it’s an exhaust brake because I have the main on off switch then a high low switch. Fortunately it seems to be stuck in the low range only 3 cylinders as I I said before the high low switch doesn’t seem to do anything of course I have only tried it a few times and maybe I was going to fast for it to go into the high range. I didn’t know there was a switch at the accelerator petal but it does disengage When I hit the accelerator as it’s supposed to. I will take apart the arm rest console and look at the switch first but I’m not confident that’s the problem

Since I bought our Dynasty the Jake brake can’t be turned off. The on off switch does light up when you push it on but doesn’t disengage it and the hi lo switch doesn’t do anything either. I can’t seem to find any info on this or any site about it being stuck on just not working. I know a lot of people just leave theirs on most of the time but I would like to turn it off especially in bad weather. Does anyone know of a fuse location or something to check I can’t seem to find much information about this particular problem.

So I installed my hydraulic wax valve from Source Engineering. Before the install my fan ran full bore right at start up and my engine temperature wouldn’t get very high, my mpg is terrible. After the install when I started it for the first time I noticed the fan was running slow and I was very happy at first. After only about 4-5 minutes it started running very high and I was surprised because the engine temperature was around 100 degrees and the thermostat was no where close to opening. I took it for a drive and never got the temperature above 177. I called Jim at Source and verified that I had the hoses connected correctly and he said that seemed normal to him. I have read on this forum and others that this ISL 400 should run about 185-195 I never have come close to that. Since I was installing this I changed the coolant and the thermostat I used a vacuum system to put the coolant in so there is no air pockets. During the coolant changing process I flushed the system twice with distilled water and then filled with Final Charge each time taking it out on the road to run the heater to circulate the coolant and it never gets above 177 degrees. It behaved the same way with the old thermostat and old sauer danfoss system except it ran wide open right from the start. Jim at Source says it may sound like the fan is running fast but it might only be running at 1500 rpm. My question is why is it running higher than the initial 800 rpm when it’s still warming up and not even to operating temperature. For those of you that have this on your coach does this sound right? It’s been cold here 40’s and 50’s during the day but that shouldn’t make any difference on operating temperature. My understanding was this wax valve with the restricter will keep the fan running at start up about 800 rpm for the ac condenser and stay that way till it gets up to operating temperature about 195 then the fan should kick up to higher rpm and cool it down to 180 then Just keep cycling that is what I was anticipating maybe I’m totally wrong I don’t know. Any advise on this would be helpful 

Well, the problem with my bedroom monitor was that it was on the wrong input. I had thought about that before but there was no way to change it on the Kenwood monitor itself. My wife said "what does that little remote that says Kenwood on it do" the light bulb went off and sure enough you can change the input with the little remote so problem solved.

Thanks, I would have never thought to look under that hatch on the dash. I wondered why it was like that. I will take a look at that and hopefully it will be that simple. 

I also have a minor problem with my new to me Aladdin system. Everything works from the front pilot seat but the screen in the back bedroom says no input so it has power to it.  When i toggle the rear joy stick it will turn on the system in the front so i know the joystick in the back is working so it seems like just the video feed to that back screen is not working. I dont know on my Countess model where all the components are located. From what i have read if i find the block that feeds that rear screen i can move it to another port is that correct?

Thanks for the replies. Cummins parts didn't recognize my engine number for some reason and kept giving me a "not found" error. I cleared my browsing data and now it works. Part #3940632 which is now 5284903 is the correct one.  

I am getting ready to pull my cooling system stand pipe of to get the new hydraulic wax valve nut welded on and to change a lower pipe and other elbows.

I was thinking of changing the thermostat while i have it opened up but i have looked all over for the correct one and i am having a hard time finding the correct part number for my 400 ISL.  I find 3 different part numbers at Cummins 3968559,3940632,5284903 not sure what is correct. I have 67000 miles on the engine and no problems with engine running hot but i havent been in the mountains yet and just drove it home 500 miles from Florida. Of course the fan was running wide open the entire time. So do you think i need to change it?  If anyone has changed theirs on a 400 isl and knows the part number i would love the info.

Thanks, Mike

I have the ISL 400 and the starter is below and I don’t think all that diesel fuel pouring down on it isn’t the best thing for it. I have to extend 

my arm all the way to reach the filter so it’s just in a bad place. I figure there has to be a way to relocate it. 

After changing fuel filters for the first time I was wondering if it’s possible to change the location of the fuel filter located on the upper side of the engine.

It’s the FF5488 filter and what a bitch it was to change. When taking it off fuel runs down your arm because there’s no way to bring it down straight you have to turn it on an angle to get it down and out. Then to get it back on you have to put the Rubber O ring on and wants to fall off.  I don’t know if the O ring is normally snug on there but this one that came with the filter was loose and would just fall off. Made it extremely difficult when you can only get one hand up there. Anyways I got it done but don’t want to keep doing this every year. Has anyone relocated theirs or found a kit that works for this filter? I looked from underneath and it doesn’t look like it would  be any easier from the top side. looks like it would be hard to even see from the top.

On my 06 i have the same problem with the co pilot chair being very loose. I dont think its made by Flex steel i

think its Kustom Fit that made the seats. My base plate looks different then the one in the picture above but 

i will try and look for a center bolt to tighten.

Hello everyone, 

My wife and I just purchased a new to us 2006 Dynasty. We are not new to Motorhomes because we own (still) a 2000 Fleetwood Discovery 

but this Dynasty has a lot more Stuff on it that im still trying to learn about. We owned are Discovery for about 8 years and wanted to get somthing

a little nicer because we are traveling a lot more now. Anyways the first thing i am already doing is the radiator fan control. I ordered the kit from

Source Engineering because i noticed the fan running full bore all the time. While inspecting underneath i noticed the lower radiator steel pipe was pretty rusted

and was planning since i am opening up the system to try and fix or replace that along with some other fittings. Does anyone know a source

to find radiator pipes and hoses for my rig?  Thanks,  Mike