Garry Donohue

Harry; Do you  know what type of wrench is for the A/C bolts ? Standard or metric? I can’t seem to locate the correct wrench. 

Thanks Jerry but it is so loose, it’s about to jump off. Judging by past inspections. As for a dealer, I’m in New Jersey and I only have a Camping World near me, I resist going there. It look’s pretty straight forward to tighten myself thanks to Harry and Frank, 

It was that threaded adjustment screw that had me confused. Thanks Harry. 

Yes that looks like mine. That makes it so much easier with photos. Thank you so much for your time! 

My dash A/C works but the belt is way too loose. I can see the bolts but would like a step by step info on how and which bolts to loosen and then tighten?

How exactly do you tighten the A/C compressor belt? Mine is on, and spins fine, but is very very loose.

I was wondering how the antenna part attached underneath the coach. I could not see any mounting surface to use. Did you have to drill into the bottom some how?

More specifically… I installed mine hanging from the ceiling of one of the bays. Only because I could not see any attachment point underneath the coach? 

Where did you install the  remote antenna? 

Did you check behind the video screen for loose plugs? You can get there by removing the center drawer if you have one and removing the radio to get your arms up there, also the center hatch on the top of the dashboard on the drivers side. That was my problem 

The top photo is what all the bad batteries showed, and the bottom was the 4 good batteries. But I have not charged them yet. This is my baseline 

My EZRED SP101 arrived today. Dumb question..Do I have to charge the batteries to full in order to test with the Hydrometer?

Ok We didn’t see an access plate but we will remove the batteries from the back box to look further. 

Also, as there is corrosion on the backside of the shut off switches, is there a trick to get up there between the walls to clean them?

Reporting back to Cherry+ McEllroy..

We separated the house batteries into separate groups of 2- 6 volts by removing the short cables that tied the 4 together as instructed. The good tray in the front, below the chassis batteries read 6.5 volts on each battery.  The tray in the back read 5.7 volts. 
 

we then cleaned all the connections including the pass through bolts. My mechanic friend then took a light tester and probed between each cable. Although the back of the two shut off switches had corrosion, power still passed through. We then started the Generator. His thought was to probe with a volt meter, each connection. Starting from the furthest connection away from the batteries, we got 13.5 volts. We continued moving toward the bad tray in the rear, we disconnected from the batteries, and probed the last positive and negative cables that would normally attach to the batteries. And read 13.5 volts with generator running. Now it appears that the coach is fine except for the batteries themselves. Although they read 5.7 volts equally with no difference between the 4 batteries in question. My friend is going to bring over a portable load tester to see if we can detect a dead cell somewhere in that rear tray. We did notice that two of the batteries in question seems to have a slight bulge on the top. That’s the only thing that looks out of normal. He even checked for ohms resistance to the cables that bridge between the batteries. ( no resistance showed on the meter). So I guess I’ll get back with the results of the load test this week unless you two have any other suggestions. 

Will do

Frank had put me wise on the big boy research when I was leaving for Florida last March. At that time none of my house batteries were charging. He told me to flip on and off multiple times my disconnect switches to get the big boy to temporarily work. It worked. But he did say to put it on my to do list when I get home to clean the big boy. As you can see from the pics he was correct about the corrosion. After I get this cleaned up, I will then concentrate on the back tray of house batteries not charging. In two of the photos…I did find the cables that Tom mentioned and as you can see they are very corroded. Hopefully that is my charging problem. 

Thank you Frank and Tom, I’m heading over Thurs or Fri to put the info to work. 

Wanted to clarify, are there any fuses or relays that can be bad? 

Ok Tom I will return with my findings this week when my mechanic friend meets me to keep me from blowing things up, lol. Thank you so much. That battery 101 info was very helpful, 

07 Dynasty I have three battery trays. One for Chassis and one below holding 4 house. Then behind that bay, I have a separate tray that holds the other 4 house batteries. When I charge..Only the tray of 4 house batteries below the chassis batteries take a charge as well as the chassis batteries. However the tray holding the other 4 house batteries in the rearmost tray do not charge and are at 5.7 volts. It seems they are just going along for the ride. Is there a fuse or relay or a connection between the front and rear trays that I can look at? 

Do you have a button to push to switch between city fill and fresh water tank fill? 
Then if you have the Aladdin system, you must turn on Aladdin to activate switch. 

My 06 Dynasty was a Moen brand. I had to replace the cartridge. I have an access panel on the opposite side of the shower wall in the bedroom. I’m sure the configurations are different in each layout, but you should have a way of getting behind that wall. Purchased at Home Depot or Lowes,

When my rear monitor went out, I accessed the hatch in the front dashboard in front of the drivers seat and found a loose rca Jack going into the junction box for the Aladdin. Did you look at that before replacing anything?

My 07 dynasty had the same problem. Look for an access panel in the center of the overhead section above the dashboard. I have a squire model that does not have a TV up front. But if you do, look behind the TV up front for an access panel. Open the center storage overhead door. If you have an access panel, remove it and up where you can access the outside running lights, you  will see a control box marked “H” box. (Not positive on the letter) You can jump the two wires to get the awning in. I then eliminated the control box and put in a simple carling switch. Push one way it goes in, push the other way it goes out. Simple. 

Sorry it was a box marked “D” not “H”