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GypsyJo

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  1. I took my 2006 Monaco Camelot into Josam’s in Orlando to fix the air leaks in my system. My coach could not maintain level for 24 hours and I could hear leaks. They called and said they only found tiny leaks and fixed them. 400.00 later, two days off work and the drive and I get back to my site to set up. Went to level and from drivers seat I could hear air rushing out. I crawled under the coach and found first a tube that wasn’t in place where there is a compression fitting. I put it in and made sure it was well seated, then proceeded to crawl to the front of the coach where i I continue to hear air. I found a brass fitting that was literally hand tightened. After splitting plumbers tape and tightening it, the air leak stopped but still I could hear air. My neighbor crawled under and his friend stood next to the front passenger tire where they were heading the air leak. They found a T that was leaking and went to Lowe’s and found the same fitting for 7.00 and replaced it. It’s been 5 days and my coach has maintained level completely. 
    needless to say, I won’t be going back to Josams again. problem is fixed now.  Valid is working perfectly. 
     

     

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  2. On 11/15/2022 at 12:37 PM, Tom Cherry said:

    YES, we need to KNOW what is going on.  Hydraulic, which is what I suspect.  However, there are SOME common terms and we might also being talking or understanding different ones.

    The Air (Valid) system will creak and moan and if left in the Auto, it will relevel itself.  That is how it is designed.  I ran mine for 3 years and did not even know that the AUX compressor was not working....the ON/OFF switch was corroded.  I put in a new switch.  WHAT's that NOISE....at 3:00 am one morning.  We decided it was not NOT a feature the we needed or wanted to use.  I actually started to level myself to get the MH lower so that there was not as much "Space" between the step and the ground.  SO, I start at the low end (AIR) and pump up each corner and get it leveled at the lowest point.  BUT, I also abandoned the Auto Level and leave it in Manual  and I don't get the "TIME TO SHIFT" annoyance.  We do NOT lose air in the LEVELING system.  The Main air....UPSTREAM...which is part of the brake system bleeds down.  I have it leak tested.  That is NOT a major issue.  If you read the DOT spec it is something like 2 PSI per minute.  Mine is in the ONE PSI per HOUR range.  

    BUT, the level is maintained.  I can turn the system on....the indicator shows it good.  I just have to PUT in the Manual Mode and then shut it down....or tell it to go to sleep and not bother me.  If I had to add a larger pump, then I would want to know WHY I had such a big leak and address the cause and not overpower the pump...

    NOW....switching to the Hydraulic.  IF there is a major releveling and the MH is NOT maintaining a good level, then the system (sensors and pump and leaks) need to be addressed.  BUT, if the issue is a minor...."Hey....we need to move a smidge because someone walked", then before I did any major trouble shooting....I would run a test.

    Put it in MANUAL and turn it off.  Then maybe ONCE a day, look at the control panel and see if the MH has settled.  OR use a level. It may be an overactive condition that is an annoyance.  BUT, if it shifts and needs to be tweaked, then start the process to determine WHAT is going on....

    Loose sensor? Leaking? Faulty controller? Bad valve?  The list goes on....

    The request for "Reprogramming" might be interpreted as "how to I keep it out of AUTO and having it keep tweaking in minute manner when there ain't nothing wrong?".  If that is the case....follow the above....

    Am I understanding you correctly?  
    You are lowering it to the lowest level and then raising where needed to level? Or are you dumping air completely then manual leveling. Although this could be the same thing. 
    i ask because my new location is extremely sloped and auto level isn’t an option but my steps are still really ally high from the ground. 

  3. Thank you Tom. I am learning so much from Myron. I am 2 hours from CW but can call and make sure they have the part before making the drive. 
    I ran my generator last night for a while to finish a load of laundry that was still in my machine and tried my fireplace. It did come on   .  I have microwave, washer and dryer, fireplace and power from one outlet Drivers side bedroom.   
    Heat pump works on shore power as well as the bedroom outlet. 
     

  4. Myron,  while running my generator,  I discovered something else. My fireplace works with the generator as well as washer and dryer. 
    My trip southwest will take 3 days to get there and we stay in Marathon for 8 days. I don’t think neighbors will appreciate my genny running all that time. I may need to pick up a charger to use while parked. If I haven’t got it resolved .  I am scheduled to arrive in Ocala North on Nov 15th. 

  5. 17 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

    First things FIRST.  The circuit breakers for for the 115 VAC OUT.  When they are tripped, you have had a short or an overload.  The Magnum will STILL charge the batteries.  BUT, if the Magnum needs to be "SOFT RESET", then here is how to do it.  

    With the Genny Running....which means that you have INCOMING AC 115....and MAKE SURE THAT THE INVERTER CIRCUIT BREAKER is NOT TRIPPED....and closed.....

    You hold the POWER BUTTON in for about 5 - 10 seconds.  That RESETS it.  That button, I THINK, is on the BACK SIDE of your inverter.  Where all the phone lines are....it is close by.  Once you RESET or HOLD that button in....the Magnum will RESET.  BUT, it will be OFF.  Push and HOLD the reset for 10 seconds.  THEN Wait about a MINUTE.  That will turn ON the Inverter.  Go inside.  Your Magnum remote should be showing charge and lighted up or when you push the METER button it lights up.

    NOW....that is charging.....as your Genny is ON.

    Next....then PUSH IN the TWO buttons or the ones sticking OUT.  These are mini Circuit Breakers.  When they are OUT....there is NO power.  The other one on the right, the 30, is the INCOMING Power.  It is hooked up to the power lead from the 30 Amp breaker in the main panel.

    If those breakers will NOT set....then you either have a massive short in the wiring in the MH or the Inverter is TOAST. 

    That's about all I can provide.... 

    I went through the steps that you said to do. As soon as I pushed the power button for 10 seconds, my generator went off. I continued through the steps and there is no change. The buttons were not out either. 

  6. I am back to my Valid system. I last posted about my Valid issue back in March. Well I finally pulled out of the park where I worked all summer to go have my slideouts looked at and I had NO alarms from my Valid system. Although now, instead of laying 10 days pretty level, since returning and parking, it’s now lasting 2-3 days. I’m thinking it’s time to call Valid and see if it is a Valid issue or something else.  Any thoughts and Thank you 

  7. I do in fact have 3 hydraulic slideout and 1 electric. I had trouble finding the hydraulic reservoir but finally located it in the engine compartment right in front of my face. I guess I was looking for something different. I closed all slideout and checked level, it was good. 
    I contacted camping world to schedule an appointment. Am just waiting for call back. Driving there will give me an opportunity to see if my Valid leveling system will act up again once on the road. 
    Thank you again for your help. I’ll let you know what they find once I get get into the shop  

     

  8. I looked in the generator compartment and didn’t find the hydraulic system so went to the book. Apparently all the hydraulics run off the same place which is in the engine compartment just below the oil dipstick. I neglected to read how much fluid it would take and only bought a few qts. Well they aren’t enough. I will have to go to town after work tomorrow and pick up a case of fluid. I sure hope I’m doing this right. I can’t Find anything in the manual. 
    i had my coach serviced at REV in Indiana last august and only put 1100 miles on her. I can’t imagine she lost all her fluids. They were supposed to have done thorough check on transmission and all other fluids and change them all.  
    My slideout went out and in fine a couple times, then none of them would move at all for a while. Then they go In and out and again nothing. I imagine I am still very low on fluids. 
     

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