CorinthWest

Don't tempt me. LOL

Update: The way I have it connected now, I have a 10mA parasitic draw when the disconnect if "off", and 30mA when it is "on", which is within spec. However, the ignition in the coach is dead (dash is black and it won't crank) when it is "off", and starts normally when it is "on", as it should.

On it, Chuck. Thank you!

Thank you cbr046! And another name goes on my Christmas card list. LOL Yeah, I already figured that out - and of course, mine was broken, like everything else. LOL Here are 3 dilemma's that baffled me that you might find interesting - the first is an extra connector up by the radiator over flow tank. I found it in the Workhorse chassis schematic - it's for a low coolant sensor, that was not installed on this chassis. The second dilemma that I haven't figured out yet is the "ACC" switch on the dash. The owners manual states it is for auxiliary equipment, and the schematics show an empty connector in the dash. But I don't see anything controlled by this switch, and I haven't found the connector. The third dilemma is the TPMS low tire pressure warning light on the dash. I called Workhorse and they said they didn't make a TPMS system for this chassis, but they did engineer the light into the dash in anticipation of delivering the system at some point in time - which they never did. Not sure how accurate this info is, however. Anyway, back to the disconnect switch. Thank you for your input.

Thank you, Tom. My Christmas card list is getting longer! LOL I don't think the schematic you provided is the right one. I'm fairly sure the starter is the one thing that DOESN'T get disconnected by the switch. But I'm going to check it out. Thank you.

Agreed - I have found Monaco documentation to be less than adequate (understatement). Some of it matches, and some of it doesn't. It's a crap shoot. Yes, as for the AUX START (Boost), THAT was broken too. He had blown the F55 fuse and never replaced it - probably because he didn't know where it was. Once I replaced it, Boost worked. Just one of HUNDREDS of problems. But I'm getting there.....lol. Bought a lot of stuff from REV, but never been there. Maybe when I get this thing rolling. It's got some bady damage (not bad) and I heard they do pretty good body work. As for your last 2 sentences, I'm curious. The BIG black cable with the loom around it is the battery cable, and it goes into the bottom center of the switch. Right next to it is a separate black cable (slightly smaller) that also enters the bottom center of the switch. Then there are the 2 red cables, one on either side. But inside the switch, the battery cable goes to the left lug, along with the left red cable, and the other black (smaller) cable goes to the other lug along with the other red cable. Confused yet? I am....LOL. Ohhh, PM!

Steve, Those files did not translate to .JPG's. What are they? Also, I have a Workhorse chassis schematic if you ever need it, and I'm building a fairly good supply of spare parts because of all the work I am doing. Not sure how to get you my personal email. Can you PM me and I'll send it to you?

Constructive criticism is ALWAYS welcome, David. I can use all the help I can get (just ask my wife). Anyway, thank you for the reply. Yes, my level of verbosity is directly proportional to my level of frustration - LOL. Sorry for the lengthily post. I said the pic is the 8th or 9th from the end. But here is a pic of my installation (new switch). I'm also attaching the OEM Monaco schematic per your request. As you can see, it is definitely wrong (I only have 1 battery, and there is definitely supposed to be a disconnect switch here). Thank you for the reply, Steve. Yes, I think you are right when you said "It looks as if they are split - 2 & 2". I can't see any other way the cables can be routed, but I want to be sure, particularly because of the inherent parasitic drain. But I didn't have anything to compare it to since it was a mess when I got it. Yes, you make a good point. I replaced it with a cheap OEM. I probably should have gone to a better quality marine disco. Hindsight, and all that. If/when the house disco goes, or this one breaks again, I will replace them both with better quality. Thank you for the advice (where were you LAST week - LOL - just kidding). I really love this coach. It's not my first, but it's the best in a long line. But it was in really bad shape when I got it, although it LOOKS good (the IMPORTANT thing - LOL). The best thing about this coach is the engine purrs like a kitten and the trans shifts beautifully. Heater and A/C(s) work good and gen runs good - since I worked on it, that is). Other than that, almost everything else was broken. I have 3 pages of stuff I have fixed (single line spacing), and 2 more to go. What can I say, I'm a glutton for punishment. Replacing exhaust now. Already did the tires and battery. I keep telling myself that when I am done, there is nothing else that can go wrong - LOL! Thank you again, Steve. Really appreciate your input.

Well, this is my first post to my first RV website ever. Greetings all. I am obviously writing this out of desperation. Background: I purchased a 2004 Vacationer 37PCT (gas, W24 Workhorse with an 8.1) and have been fixing the myriad of issues with it (and there are a LOT). Aside from parts no longer being available since Monaco went out of business years ago, I am finding SOME technical information difficult to locate as well. Case in point, and the reason I subscribed to this website, the previous owner must have had an issue with the chassis disconnect switch. When I got the coach, the switch was completely missing, and was replaced by a bolt and nut (scavenged from the guts of the original disconnect switch internal parts). My guess is that the switch let them down at some point and this was their "fix" that never got "fixed". He didn't even bother to tape it up....geez. ANYWAY, there are 4 cables to the switch, one is the battery (obviously). I am assuming another large cable goes to the starter. I have the OEM schematics for the coach, but they are wrong (shows dual batteries and no disconnect). I know this is wrong because I can see the original switch in pictures of other Vacationers. It is located in the RF basement, to the right of the forward power distribution panel. Here is a picture I found of another coach with the identical switch setup. (https://dreamfindersrv.com/RV/7707705/BIG_PICS.htm - I think it is the 8th or 9th picture from the end, black box next to red disconnect knob) I've replaced the switch, and it appears the cables will only reach in a certain way. But this ties the battery cable and the starter cable together on one side of the switch, and there is a slight parasitic drain on the connection (probably PCM/TCM). The remaining 2 cables (smaller) are tied together on the other side of the switch. I've called Monaco - no help. I've called 3 different ex-Monaco dealers, and they all act like I am from Mars. I'm trying to put this back the way it belongs (factory OEM), and I am looking for information (schematic?) on this particular switch. I have spent DAYS researching this, and I am REALLY frustrated. I need to know if the starter and battery cables go to one side of the switch (with the resulting slight parasitic drain), and the "other" 2 cables go to the other side. Is this how it is supposed to be? IE. the battery "disconnect" doesn't actually FULLY disconnect the chassis battery. However, this configuration would also lessen the load through the switch when starting since the battery and starter cables are "permanently" bonded to the same terminal on the disconnect switch. I can't believe I can't find anything on this, and no one seems to know the answer. Any help would be VERY much appreciated. I'll add you to my Christmas Card list!