Ali-026

22 hours ago, Happycarz said:

Go back up toward the beginning of this thread to see the picture of my valve, with the part number still on it.

Thank you so much and I am so sorry, I think I was reading your response on the phone, did not notice the photo. I also missed Ben confirming that he had the same unit as yours. Thank you Harry, Ben, Tom, Bob and Dan, your responses were super helpful, and your help is greatly appreciated.✔️

Would a similar year Camelot owner willing to share a photo of their dash heater valve / actuator?

I've installed the replacement Dorman 604-5105 actuator, first I've tested it separate from the valve, and noticed the throw was much wider than anticipated. I first thought the replacement unit was not compatible, so I swapped the gears and connected the old one, and it was still the same, a wider turn angle. 

Here are some photos of the actuator and valve cold-hot positions. I am thinking either Monaco messed it up with this setup or the PO had something incompatible installed.

If someone with a 2006 to 2010 Camelot share a photo of their dash valve and actuator -or the part numbers, if would be super helpful to troubleshoot this issue.

Thank you

Ali

Thank you everyone. It must have been my lucky day as I solved the mystery after opening the actuator. Ordered a new one from Amazon. I will update the group *hopefully with successful results in a few days: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D8VIW5W

21 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Ours is 712598

Thanks. It seems like Monaco used the same unit numbers for H.R models as well. I wish there were public records of how many Camelots, Scepters, etc were built each year.

Thank you for all your messages. I do have a set of gauges, and connected them to the ports in the firewall area. I see the following pressures. Is it safe to assume these are pretty low?

OK, I've separated the actuator from the valve body (only 3 screws to remove). First I've tested the valve by manually turning it left and right, it was not stuck and working properly. Then I've tested the actuator by turning heater control cold to hot, then back a few times while monitoring the actuator, it was working first but then went out of range. I think the actuator is acting up, trying to go out of range and causing the clicks in the mechanism. I am going to open it up to see if I can fix it:

On 3/29/2024 at 7:50 PM, Happycarz said:

I don’t know if this valve is interchangeable with yours, but assume it would as it is using same dash controls. Darn snowflakes. 
My 2008 Camelot is an early build, as I ordered my it in April 2007 and took factory delivery that June. 
What is your coach number (71xxxx) if you don’t mind sharing?  Also when was it made?

Snowflakes indeed. My valve/actuator looks different, but it uses the same dash controls. 

Our 2008 Camelot unit number is 713072 and it was manufactured in December 2007. If you don't mind sharing, what is the number difference between your 2008 Camelot and ours?

On 2/29/2024 at 3:10 AM, Robert92867 said:

...First thing I would do is clean the area well and try to spot the leak.

Thank you, and agreed. I did clean the area well and will try to spot the leak.

On 3/1/2024 at 9:11 AM, Happycarz said:

...Does your dash A/C cool normally? If the condenser is leaking you would think the dash air would be hot.

 

Good point, I was testing dash AC heating today, I set the temp to cold and Max AC, although the heater water shutoff valve was not fully closing, I did not notice any cold(er) air coming from dash vents. I checked the compressor on the engine as well, but could not tell if the clutch was engaging. 

Does this part on the compressor circled in red supposed to spin with A/C or Max A/C on? I've tried on and off but it was not spinning.

Thank you Tom Wallis and Tom Cherry, I appreciate your assistance. I went to the RV today, and tested a few things. First I confirmed the clicking was definitely coming from the device marked in yellow. It is a Dorman heater water shutoff valve actuator (604-6105). I think the valve itself is underneath, and this thing just opens and closes the valve. I am thinking may be I should separate the actuator from the valve and then turn the valve manually hoping it will dislodge what ever preventing the valve to close.

I've tried cycling temp control and AC, and clicking is most obvious at full cold position, stops around midway and no clicking when temp setting is hot.

I will see if I can figure out how to separate the actuator from the valve and update the group on my progress.

Hello Everyone

I have this clicking noise coming from the dash/firewall area when ignition is on and dash air is not in the OFF position. First I thought dash air fan was touching something but noticed the clicking does not change with fan speed. I listened to it from the firewall side and it seems to be coming from the device marked in yellow.

Any suggestions on the cause and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you 

If this was our coach, I would be measuring chassis battery voltage while someone is turning the ignition. If chassis battery is confirmed good, then I would tap on the starter while someone turning the ignition. You should see sparks coming from the starter if chassis battery is good, but starter is bad.

On 3/28/2023 at 5:39 PM, Big Dave said:

I have aired up my system but it won't let me dump the air with the air dump switch.  Any advice?

Hi Dave, were you able to fix the air dump switch issue. Just to clarify, you are using the Air Dump switch on dash correct? I have the same issue. The switch on dash does not work while the air dump on Valid air leveling panel works. I wonder why Monaco put the switch on dash since that functionality exists on the Air Leveling panel. I thought may be the dash switch was to dump air from the tanks?

Wait a minute, I found this in the Users Guide. Our coach is Air Leveling Only so I am guessing the switch is not connected to anything. I will remove the switch and confirm next time I am at the storage unit. 

OK after some research, I think what I have is a Ridewell Lo-Flo HCV part number 6255007. I've heard a few other 2008 Camelot/Dynasty owners having the same ride height valve unit. Now I'll need to fix the air leaks thru the PTC fittings and adjust the ride height.  

5 hours ago, windsorbill06 said:

... I'd chock the tires, start the engine, and have someone turn the steering wheel,  just a little, back and forth, while you watch to see if there is any play/slack in that joint.  

 

Thank you Bill, I agree. I will check for any slack/play on the drag link ball joints. Also when you determine your options for the drag link boot on the steer axle side would you mind sharing it. I haven't looked closer but ours might have some issues there as well.

8 hours ago, Benjamin said:

See if you can pop the boot back onto the housing, it looks like it just popped loose.  An o ring pick will help if it's tight to get back on. 

I agree, I am suspecting the POs mechanic might have used power grease gun causing it to pop loose. I am hoping another Camelot owner might share the photo of theirs with the boot seated so we can see how it should look after getting it back on. 

I was wondering if anyone knows the make model part number of this 2008 Camelot ride height valve?

Hello Everyone

I was under the coach today, looking for air leaks, and noticed something unusual about the draglink tie rod end. I was thinking there might be a clamp or something gone missing and wondering if there are any thoughts or suggestions on how to put it back together?

Also I would very much appreciate if someone with a similar year Camelot can share a photo of their draglink tie rod end so I can compare and see what needs to be done on our unit. 

Thank you so much.

I was working on the swing door for the radiator stack, and noticed one of the radiators' bottom part was soggy (#4 in the photo). Looking at the stack, there is the main engine coolant radiator #1 behind all of them, which is not visible in the photo. I've checked it from the inside where the fan is located, and did not see any leaks (thank goodness).

I am trying to figure out what #2, 3 and 4 does. I think #2 is the CAC, and either 3 or 4 is the transmission cooler perhaps.

I am planning to fix the leak myself if possible. Any suggestions on where the leak might be coming from and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you. 

Thank you Martin, Tom. We have been using the steps since we have corrected the issue and its been working great. Good tip on applying dielectric grease on the terminals and sealing them, which I did couple days ago. We are enjoying our motorhome so far, but finding other issues here and there. I will post another thread regarding the "radiator leak" issue I am trying to figure out.

Hello Everyone

We purchased our 2008 Camelot 36' about a month ago from a dealer in Manteca, CA. It was traded in and the steps were not working. Dealer promised they will install a new Kwikee series 28 electric step prior to delivery to us. The new steps were extracting/retracting correctly during PDI, but later we've noticed couple issues: 

• Step did not remain in extended position when the step switch is on and the entrance door is closed, but it does remain in the retracted position (opposite of what the owners manual says)
• Step light was reversed as well. The light is off when the step is extended, and the light is on when the step is retracted.

After some troubleshooting, we found out that the original magnetic switch was normally closed (NC) type, and the dealer did not replace it with the correct Kwikee normally open (NO) type switch. I've purchased an installed an NO switch from Kwikee, but now the step operations was reversed. After digging a bit further, I've realized the dealer simply reversed the motor wiring instead of doing the right thing and replacing the magnet switch with the correct kind.

I am happy to report that our electric steps are finally working correctly after replacing the magnetic switch and putting the motor wiring back to the correct way. Morale of the story is that some dealers/mechanics just choose the cheap/fast way to solve problems vs doing the right thing. 

Ali

Hi Everyone, and thank you for all your suggestions 🙏

I've ordered couple 1/4" Male NPT Ball Valve Air Tank Drain Petcocks and replaced the leaking one. No more leaks, and I am again a happy camper ☺️

Thank you all for your help. I've decided to give a small air hammer a try. After securing the motorhome, I went under and gently tapped on the drums using the air hammer. After a few tries the brake shoes came free. I was happy that we can use the motorhome again. 

This is a wonderful group and your help is greatly appreciated.

Here is another photo. This one is the passenger side rear wheel. For both wheels, the top shoe is loose, but the bottom ones are frozen. Last time we used the RV it was for a Christmas trip, and on the way back there were heavy rain. It has been parked since, and many rainy days in California.  I must find a way to un-stuck the bottom shoes with minimum force.

27 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Before you hit it, can you see the s-cam on top to confirm that there is space for the shoe to back off, in case the rod was bent or something?

Yes, this is the driver side rear wheel, and the first photo was part of the wheel facing back. I think the s-cam is the part facing the front (please see below). Do I need to remove something to expose the s-cam?

Hello Monaco'ers

This happened to me couple years ago. Back then I have tried shifting D to R a few times, then hit the drums with a 4 lb hammer, but at the end force separating the shoe with a 15" hook bar did the trick.

So, this time, I've tried all the same tricks; shifting/rocking, hitting the drum, and even the hook bar, but no joy, the darn shoe is still stuck 😫 

Next I am thinking to use a cold chisel between the metal on the shoe and drum (red arrow) and see if that can separate the shoe with a hammer. I was wondering if you nice folks has any other thoughts on how to deal with a stubborn stuck brake shoe.

Thank you

Ali  

Hello Everyone

I've recently replaced the front HCV and used the drain port valve to empty the tanks. After this work, I've noticed a slight leak from the core of the drain port valve. Please note it's the center rotating part that is leaking, not the valve itself.

Does anyone know the port size (1/4 NPT ?) for air drain and any possible replacement valve suggestions?

Thank you

Ali