Jump to content

Moiras

Members
  • Posts

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Moiras

  1. Martin, I have used crutch field in the past, I will have to give them a call about this. Unfortunately I dont think I can install it myself because I have never done it before. I hate having to get a degree in everything with this coach just so I know when the "techs" are screwing stuff up. I had an awful experience this summer and in fact I am on my way back to Shipshewana because the solar guy installed a battery charger for my chassis batteries on the same circuit as the a/c. Guess what, now I can't run the a/c, on shore power! Hey Chad thank you so much for the reply. That is exactly what I am trying to find out. My 2003 sig came with a separate Sony monitor for all the cameras albeit not in a very useful location. I am not sure if I can do this install but I can follow colored wires, we'll see. Which one did you get? Hi Marine Boy, I was looking at that one and the BE 7acp-SD too. (Standard Definition?) So can you get your Aladdin on screen by selecting the backup camera? Did you hook up the Aladin feed to the backup camera input? That would be perfect for what I want to do. We have an iPhone and an android, they should be connected wirelessly I thought. But honestly anything would work for me now. Let me know OK?
  2. For the cq-va707weuc Hey there, when we bought this coach the Panasonic radio was already gone. It was replaced with a cheap chinese piece of garbage called a Lanzar. Well it has died now and I gotta replace it with something inexpensive. We had a very expensive summer already with new tires, hydraulic problems lithium batteries etc.. This is the thing, when we bought the coach, we didn't know any different. What we need it to do is display the engine readings, have bluetooth to integrate the phones and play am and fm. We dont need a cd changer and we have a separate RV GPS that I can update every year, although I know the coach has the GPS antenna. We dont want the pop up radio anymore. My coach, 2003 signature, came with a separate monitor for the side and backup cameras. So at best buy they have these fixed face plate radios. They have a video in for the backup camera. If I could trick the radio into thinking we are always in reverse or have a selection to view the backup camera, it might work. All the new ones are like this now. They dont have external video inputs or video outputs. Apparently nobody knows anything about the products they are selling. No pictures of the back, no manuals, and it must be ordered, so nothing in the store to see. I just located JJTL's post on IRV2 on his upgrade. It is an extensive post. And he really put in a nice system, Pioneer, 2 years ago. I just can't do that now. Does anybody know if the Best Buy Boss Audio systems can be used for the Alladin? or any other suggestions?
  3. No not really, it seems improbable that it could have worked its way out of there but my husband said the Allen screw was loose. Somebody may have started to remove the wrong wire when doing all that electrical work but they said they didn't have any reason to remove that one. Who knows.
  4. OK, all is well. After totally unpowering the coach and disconnecting the grounds on the house and chassis batteries and shutting off the house and chassis solar, I finally got that terminal dead to insert the big red wire in #8 hole/port. It appears that what powered that 80A breaker was hot off the chassis batteries and NOT connected to the house disconnect switch as the diagram shows on the pdf I posted above. So the #4 and #5 PCB boards are now all powered and my stuff is working. Boy was I lucky that's all it was. If you guys want to read more, here is what happened when I did the troubleshooting. Rocketman: On the top left corner of the pdf doc I posted above, it shows 4 bolts coming into the front run panel. I tested those yesterday for voltage with the ignition switch on. The bottom left bolt showed .76 V, bottom right 12.18V and the top ganged bolts showed 3.9mv and 3.5mv respectively. I ran a 18ga wire, connected to a 22 ga wire to make the 40 feet. When I ohm tested the big red wire in the back to my 40' wire from the bottom left bolt in the front run box, I got a beep and 0 ohms. Good to go right? Maybe not. read on. Myron: I measured the wire and lug for voltage. The wire was dead and the lug/terminal was 12. something Volts. Next I put the 12 volt test light clip on the lug/terminal and stuck the probe in the big red wire, I got a light. I checked the voltage on the 4 bolts going in the front run box again. The voltage swapped from yesterday and I dont know why. This time the power was on the bottom left bolt and the dead bolt was the bottom right. Ok this made me mad cause I just checked the continuity on the bottom left bolt! Oh yeah, the ignition switch was off this time. I cant remember now if the chassis disconnect sw was on or off. So the heck with that, we got 3.95 V on the bottom right bolt in the front run box while the test light was in place in the rear run box as instructed. Don't know why the bottom right bolt and the lug voltage were different. So we unpowered everything and finally had to physically disconnect the chassis batteries before we could get that lug unpowered. The pdf diagram was wrong. I don't know why the voltage swapped from the bottom right bolt to the bottom left bolt in the front run box. And I don't know why the bottom left bolt gave me a good continuity test i think. We inserted that big red wire in the #8 port and everything works. Thank you all for your help. Feel free to comment on the troubleshooting!
  5. Thanks Myron. Plz look at my post above w the diagram of the rr panel. The above pic only shows ports 1 thru 5. The port I found the wire hanging out of is port #8. Not in the pic. And the cb not powered is in the front run panel so I will do your tests The ports in the pic are #3 & 4 that the shop worked on. I don't understand it but the cb on the left is powered somehow. It is the Step, Aquahot and Refer. Now my Refrigerator has been "hot wired" to the house batteries for a couple years so I don't know if that does anything. My aquahot works and both my Step cover and Door Step work fine. I'll report back. Thank you!
  6. Thank you guys, I'll do the continuity test and light test this afternoon. Stay tuned. I really do appreciate all this help, I am not knowledgable on this stuff at all. Lucky for me it was something so obvious. And I did hear back from the shop, they did not remove that wire. They disabled the BIRD by removing one of the little green ground wires off it. But they also removed the 4th wire from the port, diagram shows that was the inverter wire. That was because we put in a converter. The inverter no longer sees any AC power going into it. Then they did something with the 3rd port wire, diagram shows domestic battery switch. They put in a fast fuse there and a battery charger for the chassis batteries, All right there. This is what the shop just sent me about bypassing the BIRD. The Bypass went to a DC-DC Converter that protects the lithium from the alternator(and vise versa) and doesn't allow them to burn out the alternator. This was pulling the 3/4 slots to be able to separate them from the big boy and the interaction with the Chassis battery.
  7. Hey Tom, I just wrote to Rocketman about the big red wire I found disconnected from the 80A breaker in the rear run box. But I did look for a fuse for the solenoids but couldn't find one in the back. I checked the 2 7.5 amp CBs that were on the BIRD circuit board. They were ok. And I got good voltage on each side of the 2 solenoids. The Big Boy has been bypassed by taking off the green ground wire when they installed my lithium batteries. I was also told that they bypassed the Big Boy by doing something to the #3 and #4 terminals along the bottom of the box. Domestic Battery SW and Inverter wires respectively. So I am almost positive the #8 hole which was supposed to have the big red wire in it that goes to the front run panel is the culprit and I will let you know what the story is with that as soon as I get the OK. Thank you for your help with this. I appreciate it greatly.
  8. Hey Rocketman, I checked the voltage on both sides of the solenoids and they were all about 13. something volts. This really puzzled me because while the first failure I remember happened before I had lithium batteries installed, bypassed the BIRD in the back, installed a battery charger for the chassis and installed a fast tripping breaker back there all in the rear run box, that's where they were working. I have since found a large red wire that may have come disconnected from a 80A circuit breaker above the 8th hole that runs across the bottom of the rear run box. I am almost positive that is where it came from. There is a wire that goes from the house battery disconnect switch to the 7th hole (Domestic Batt Hot) then through the 80A circuit breaker down to the 8th hole (Front Run Box Domestic Fuse Block) The red wire that is not connected to that 8th hole goes to the bottom left big red wire in the front run box. It appears to be unpowered. I'll attach a diagram and a pic. I am waiting to hear from the guys who worked on my coach before I attempt to electrocute myself! for some reason the pic posted upside down 2004 Low Voltage High Current.pdf
  9. Hi Guys, Signature 2003 here. Awhile back this summer my pop out radio failed to pop out, the viper didn't work, then I noticed my LP EOL alarm was going off but then stopped. I went out and bought another LP alarm but its not working. Low and behold the CO alarm in the bedroom is not working. So all these things were spread far apart. I also had a lot of battery , converter, and inverter work but that was after the radio failed. So out there in the front run box I believe these two boards are on the chassis battery disconnect switch. When I turn the ign key on, their lights do not come on. Checking the fuses, Im not getting any voltage except on the spare terminal. I do not know how to use the test LED lights connection. All the big cables coming in the box seem tight then they disappear behind the boards. Is there another fuse next to the chassis batteries that may have caused these boards to both fail? Where do I look next? Thank you guys so much.
×
×
  • Create New...