DennisZ

The cameras and monitor are all Voyager, I had to replace my rear camera several years ago, it has a tilt feature, so it’s a different connector than is used now. My monitor is having issues, but I’ll keep it until it dies all the way, there isn’t a feature by feature replacement available, no tilt.

From what I can see by looking at a 2007 Knight brochure, it looks like you have a different monitor, probably works the same, but not sure.

All the cameras or just 1?

The cameras aren’t really tied into the Aladdin system, they are tied into your monitor, usually a Voyager, the Aladdin just uses a display port on that monitor. What is the problem with your camera?

My wife went thru that same routine in 2015 when her knee replacement got infected, had a PIC line and used those same antibiotic balls, seemed like for 4 weeks or so. Still not sure when she is getting out, but I think tomorrow.

I was going to the Cajun Rally, but my wife got a bad infection in her hand and is currently in the hospital being treated. I’ll leave it up to Y’all to eat my share of the crawfish next week.

http://Www.texascustomcoach.com Texas Custom Coach in Pipe Creek, TX does really nice work, they’re just a few miles from me, they always have a bunch of units in there. 

Went out today to get the real “overfill”, marked the dipstick level then wiped it clean to see the level makings, it’s about 1/2” above the full mark, my guess is about 1 1/2 qts over, if the dipstick is accurate.

Yes to both

Looks like 2 to 4 quarts, need to go back and look closer.

The last time I had the oil changed in my coach, I remember them putting in 28 quarts of oil. My owners manual say it should be 24 quarts. I was checking all my levels in preparation for an upcoming trip, and found the oil level high. I had noticed there appears to be a fitting that the dipstick is attached to and it moves in and out of the dipstick tube, I measured the level with it pushed all the way in, which would give me the highest reading. I’ve driven the coach several thousand miles like this and haven’t seen any adverse issues.

Whats y’alls thoughts on this, should I leave it alone or drain some out?

Thanks, Dennis

Sounds like the storage unit lost a neutral wire on their incoming service, the voltage readings you are getting are very indicative of that. That needs to be addressed right away. I wouldn’t plug anything into that even with a protective device.

Harry, did you put separate relays for each side, or both on 1 relay?

Thanks, that was the thread I was looking for.

Has anyone installed a storage box in the middle interior entry step? I’ve seen some coaches that have them, just wondered if it’s doable or is it to much of a PITA for the gain.

Thanks

Dennis

Those splices use a low melting point solder, they are great for “emergency” repairs, but the solder does become brittle with age. An important step to help ensure a good joint is to apply a good grade of electronics flux to the wires, and make sure the wires overlap in the soldered area, they will last much longer. I still prefer a good quality crimp splice and double wall heat shrink.

Thanks

Did anyone else get a notice from Cummins, I can no longer login and can’t create a new account.

I looked at Advanced Auto, they no longer list those parts, however, I did find this company, and they are cheaper and shipping is reasonable. https://nationalhdtruckparts.com/partinfo.php?id=WAKN31000

http://www.cajunrvrally.com

You may need to recalibrate the system, here is the document that tells you how to do it, I’ve had to do mine in the past.

https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/technical-information-sheets/power_gear/leveling/pg_12003.pdf

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

https://ntrvrepair.com/

Another source in Texas is https://www.ironhorserv.com/rv-service/rv-paint-and-body/, they do a lot of the Vorad coatings on the front of coaches and do a very nice job, they are on the east side of San Antonio.

Mine is solid on the dash, it’s loose in the tube and can’t be tightened.

BTW, I just went out to my MH to get it ready for a trip, the brake lights/ cruise disengaged with air pressure as low as about 15 to 20 psi. 

My exterior handle is metal from the factory.

I don’t know why you would have to have over 65 PSI to make your brake lights work, that is not correct, the brake pressure switches should activate in the range of 3 to 5 psi. You sill may be chasing bad brake switches. If you disconnect the electrical connector between the switch and the chassis, you should be able to check them for proper operation, only 2 of the 3 wires from the switch are used, you can look at the chassis mating connector to see which wires are used.

Are you able to turn on your cruise control with the engine running and the transmission in neutral to get your engine to a fast idle? If you can, with the switches disconnected from the chassis wiring, place a jumper in place of the switch, your brake lights should come on and the cruise should disengage.