DennisZ

Mine are 1” bent metal tubing with a backing plate to mount them. Here’s a picture from the brochure.

That looks like the exterior handle

Mine are loose where the plate attaches to the tube.

Has anyone had issues with the interior entry grab handle  getting loose. Mine looks like the interior nut assy threads are worn out. Any issues to repair it?

Thanks

Dennis 

2008 Endeavor

That is the same floor plan as my 2008 Endeavor. If you have no power to the light above the sink (mine is a florescent), I would look for power in the junction box for the slide out, it is located in the small cabinet at the aft end of kitchen slide. Make sure you check the 12 volt fuse panel in the bedroom closet.

Ray is correct.

The switches are for the primary and secondary air systems (fwd & Aft), the switches are wired in parallel, either one will operate the lights or disengage the cruise. It’s kind of a pain to change them, you have to remove the valve from the firewall to do it. They are in there VERY tight. I ws able to do it without disconnecting any of the air lines.

19 minutes ago, Steve P said:

Thanks to the pics from Dennis, I found my brake switches... see below.  However, it was my impression that one switch operated the brake lights and there other the cruise (I'm guessing the prints tell the story, so back to deciphering those, and looking for the infernal BRK SIG RLY.) 

 

Steve

My pressure switches are mounted on the brake tredel valve mounted on the wall in the front bay above the generator. If your brake lights are working, it’s something else, the same switch closure that operates the brake lights disengages the cruise.

The switches are for the primary and secondary air systems (fwd & Aft), the switches are wired in parallel, either one will operate the lights or disengage the cruise. It’s kind of a pain to change them, you have to remove the valve from the firewall to do it. They are in there VERY tight. I ws able to do it without disconnecting any of the air lines.

Steve

My pressure switches are mounted on the brake tredel valve mounted on the wall in the front bay above the generator. If your brake lights are working, it’s something else, the same switch closure that operates the brake lights disengages the cruise.

Here’s some pictures of mine, before and after replacement.

Make sure your brake lights are working properly, In had an issue with my cruise not going off with the brake, both of my brake pressure switches had gone bad.

13 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:

Not too far from you folks..... Antelope Valley

 

Thanks for the heads up

Les

 

I use to live there, in Lancaster, only for 55 years, then decided I needed to leave.

I’ve used these a lot, they are fine for low voltage in areas that do not get hot, they tend to go bad in high heat areas over time. They don’t contain enough flux in the solder to give real good flow, so I generally add a drop of rosin flux to the wires prior installation, the other comments about overlapping the wires or twisting them are both good practices, otherwise you are depending solely on the solder for the strength of the gap.

BTW, these are not a new fad idea, I was using them in aircraft wiring 50+ years ago, although much more robust and higher quality items.

9 minutes ago, Dave Pumphrey said:

2nd session of what? Ramblin pushers?

No, the Cajun RV Rally

48 minutes ago, Dave Pumphrey said:

2nd session?

Yes, the April 11th thru the 15th.

19 hours ago, veraken said:

Just one.  Each has 120 LED which provided enough light

Definitely simpler.  I tried using the strips, some burned out and the adhesive failed.  

One provided plenty of light.

Do you have a picture of your install in the fixture?

If you do want to use a 1 piece solder sleeve, use one like these, I’ve used literally thousands of them in aircraft wiring, they are not cheap, and do require a high temp heat gun to shrink them, but these are very reliable mil-spec splices.  https://www.amazon.com/TE-CONNECTIVITY-RAYCHEM-D-110-35-TERMINAL/dp/B00LQP018E/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2WOCIZTXLDMD0&keywords=Raychem+solder+splices&qid=1691243191&sprefix=raychem+solder+splices%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-4

Having used those solder shrink splices, I would go with a high quality crimp splice with a separate heat shrink sleeve that has a double layer with a glue to make the connection totally waterproof, much more reliable. 

I just registered for the 2nd session, I want to be home for the eclipse, we are only a couple of miles from dead center at home.

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

All I CAN add or provide information on.....

DO NOT USE A LOW TORQUE 3/8" RATCHET to tighten down the welded studs on the SS attaching hardware.  I snapped one off.  I then drilled a 1/4" hole and put in a SS hex bolt with Nylok nut on the rear.  NOW, Don't ask me WHY I had it apart or what the occasion was.  I can't recall nor can I even lie and make up a story.  It was off, as an assembly, so I could do some work or such.  Maybe I decided to replace the nuts with Nylok locking nuts to prevent vibration....???

BUT, ONLY use a hand ratchet or wrench to remove or tighten the retaining nuts.  I would suggest that you use NEW (only NEW) Nyloks for the final assembly and then throw them away if you have to replace.  SS Nyloks are out there...as well as SS nuts which can be Double Nutted as well for security.

NOW, I DO recommend that you look at the Clevis Hooks.  I replaced the Grade 2 Pins with Grade 5 (maybe Grade 8 bolts and Nylok nuts or double nutted them. Many folks over they years have reported pins breaking or see wear. Mine, after 5 years and some 35K miles were starting to show some wear....I DO remember laying on my back in Maine and putting in the new hardware with my grown son saying..."WHY are we doing this now?"  LOL

My name plate was badly mangled from my incident, 2 of the studs were broken off. I got a couple of SS carriage bolts put in place of the, what a PITA drilling thru the old studs to get a pilot hole. All worked out, MUCH easier on the bench.

I just bought parts from these guys to fix mine, here is a complete flap for not to of an unreasonable price.

https://fsi-sales.com/products/rock-guard-monaco

You mentioned your trans was in neutral, is your engine running? If so, that could be your issue, on my 2008, my ignition must be OFF.

23 hours ago, Jeff H said:

Not to stay on topic but,

My 2006 diplomat has a 2-3" vertical flange on the top of the slide.  What happens with that?

Their website says that they cut it off and install a small ramp that allows the cover to slide over it.  https://www.truetopperusa.com/faqs

Gave Tims RV Cameras a call this morning, they can’t repair the monitor and the replacement is not a very good option, guess I’ll keep looking.

Thanks, I’ll give them a call on Monday

I have a Voyager AOM-7694 monitor that has some dead lines on the monitor. I really don’t want to replace the monitor as none of the replacements support the tilt feature for the rear camera. I guess the real question is does anyone know of a repair facility that can put in a new display, I haven’t had any luck finding one. 

I did some digging for the diode P/N that I used for the replacement, best I can figure, it’s a 1N4148, about $3.00 for a lifetime supply on Ebay.