Rowdyrick

I have not but I will the rig isn’t home yet 

I have a 09 knight and I noticed when the engine running I looked at the Magna screen it shows voltage 13.7. It says DC charger off I don’t remember seeing this before. When plugged in or with the generator on it shows float charging not sure if this is normal or not and of course we are planning on leaving on a trip Sunday any suggestions would be great 

Thank you 

Thanks Tom 

I have a 09 knight with Carrier ac/heat pumps I noticed this trip I have condensation coming off the roof when the front heat pump is on just like when the AC is on is this normal ? We have used it more then normal this trip and it working great keeping everything warm inside but I have never noticed the condensation before probably just me but I thought I would ask 

Thank you I will be ordering Monday 

Awesome Thanks once I know what size I will order it 

That’s exactly what I need is it 1/2 inch or so 

Thank you 

I have a 09 knight and am looking at replacing the door seal any ideas on what type seal it is looks like 1/2 round not sure of size any help would be great 

thanks 

Waterskier that’s exactly how I do it but we were at a campground and 2 people questioned me on why I don’t bring the bags back up and I said I follow the manual and it doesn’t say to do it and I was told the manual must be wrong and I laughed and said every coach must be different 

That’s what I do but it doesn’t say to let air pressure build up or not 

I have been told so many things about leveling so looking for the consensus of how people level there coach with the LCI system.The way I do it is I drop the air pressure to below 60psi and then auto level the question I have do you bring the air pressure up to 120 or leave it below 60 after it’s level been told many different things 

Thanks 

question on leveling a 2009 knight Roadmaster chassis with the LCI system I have been told so many way here is what I do I drop the air pressure to below 60 and auto level where the question comes up do you bring air pressure back to 120 or leave at 60 or below some say bring it up some say leave it what’s the consensus 

thanks 

3 hours ago, throgmartin said:

I wish I had a dollar for every customer who said " I can get my toppers installed cheaper elsewhere. Any tech can change a topper ". The truth of the matter is, changing toppers on a Carefree assembly requires knowledge that many techs do not have. I have been hired and brought in to train technicians in several service centers and was at one time a technical resource for the Carefree factory.

There are inherent issues with Carefree assemblies and each model has its own set of problems that need to be inspected, checked and certain parts of the assembly modified to prevent future problems. I see by your post you have a 2009 Monaco. This means you have the Carefree SOK III model assembly. Starting in 2007/08 these assemblies started developing problems with the end caps loosening up. The other problem was roller tube end play. Just so you know the right end cap has a small tab which holds the tension on the spring. When this end cap starts loosening, the end cap tilts out at the top and the spring unwinds. When this happens while driving the fabric unfurls from the wind and it rips the roller tube out of the assembly. Either the roller tube and fabric ends up on the roof or smashes along the side of the coach. The roller tube end play also causes this issue as it will move back and forth between the end caps finally knocking one of the end caps off. ( Sidenote - If you have a topper that violently rips the roller tube off the coach, chances are it popped a belt line directly above the topper. The beltlines need to be checked in this area ).

This is where an experienced technician comes into play when changing a topper. You simply do not just swap fabric. You pull the right hand end caps off and inspect the spring hold down tab. Once assembled you also check for end play on the roller tube and install bushings if needed. You check the left side axle for wear as these have a bad habit of wearing out. You also check the mounting brackets of the assembly to be sure they are tight. And finally you install the end cap bolts using blue loctite. Out of the dozens of technicians I have trained over the years, none of them knew these issues existed. They just swapped the fabric.

The full wall assemblies have their problem areas and need closer attention then the standard SOK III's. They have some weak spots in them that need to be checked. I have had numerous customers lose their full wall assemblies out on freeways. The older style Omega assemblies also have their issues and need intervention when replacing fabric.   

Thanks for the info The person or company that replaced it has been in business for 57 years I hope they have been trained but as we all know he may have had an employee do it so I am going to ask these questions. On his business he says he is a carefree authorized repair center but who knows. I think the blue Loc tight is the key I don’t believe they tightened it because the hold down bolts are barely through the bracket I mean like a 1/16th of an inch the back is through about 1/4 inch. I am going to the shop tomorrow and ask questions 

Thanks 

2 hours ago, lake49068 said:

Back to the wipers!  Had ongoing issue with wipers stopping (thermal overload built into motor?).  Replaced motor and problem reoccured and found that there was binding of the shaft coming out through the cowl.  The round spring clip behind the wiper arm was too tight and the shaft seemed to be binding, too.  Pryed the spring clip out a bit to provide a little clearance and gave the shaft a shot of silicone lube.  No problems since and give the shaft and behind cowl linkages a shot of silicone lube periodically just in case.  And agree that 28" blades has got to help, too.

Thanks I will lube it up also 

30 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Please use this thread instead of starting a new one.  Yea to tightening and keeping the arm on properly.  Otherwise the soft die cast metal will fail snd you need a new arm.  Yes…the motion will cause issues.

Follow the suggestions.  I rarely see any difference when I order new ones every year and no one seems to last better.  But, you never know….just make sure the J hook fits and locks, if that is how yours is mounted. There were manufacturing issue and bad drawings and some of the AM hooks were incorrect, but most of the plastic hardware will lock in.

Here is another Bizarre story I had my passenger side slide topper fabric replaced both of them in August and coming home in January my front slide topper slide right of the brackets driving down the highway I had to stop and cut the slide topper off the coach luckily no damage but I think they forgot to tighten it back down after they replaced the material. They had to remove the complete roller assembly because the old material was inside of it so it’s back at the same shop I wonder if he is going to charge me again ever hear of that ? 

2 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Based on your additional information, if you put on “stronger” arms, as recommended by one of AM’s competitors (Diesel Equipment - Greensboro, NC) and that had more “strength” as well as additional spring tension ….bingo.

28” works for me and I don’t want to spend big bucks on the monsters….I WOULD recommend trying a split tubular cover for storage unless you have a  barn.  It used to visit the Anco factory and talked to the product engineers.  There was a voluntary program that 95% of the US manufacturers….as well as their imported components complied with.  The Anco folks said by removing some of the “high volatile” stabilizers in the rubber formulation just about halved the life….and as the 1990 Clean Air Act kicked in, most folks went to formulas that were trying to restore the UV deterioration issues, but in effect…it got worse.

I used to give my kids and relatives new blades every Christmas.  Still do, but I don’t have my connections,  I know that the same brand and model blade will last for years on my Vette…driven at least weekly but garaged.  My wife’s ATS will go two years….my daughter, if she leaves it out as well as when in school will get a year.

Bottom line.  Fresh blades, protected, on a MH will pull less amps and clean better.

Good Luck.

The new wiper arms I got from Monoco but it blew the fuse with weaker ones I believe it’s a dragging issue so I think with doing a Rain x treatment and 28’s should help I do keep my blades covered when I am not using the MH thanks again 

Oh it’s a 2009 Monoco Knight 

Ordering a set of 28s now Thanks for the advice 

9 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

My original 32" wiper blades would lift off the windshield in high winds.  So I went with the 28" blades and that pretty much solved that problem.  It did not impact my view as the area that is currently cleaned with the wiper is big enough for me to see what I need to see.  28" blades are readily available and easier to source. 

Thanks 

Oh it’s a 2009 Monoco Knight 

I checked Voltage everything looks good all connections are dry with  no corrosion I do have 32” blades and it seems when the wipers drag is when it blows I usually use rain X but have not in a long time so I will be applying it when I get it home I did have wiper arm issues also both arms broke where the spring attaches on the back side seems like the pins were to weak my new ones are a lot better thanks for the help and I am going to buy some 28” blades 32 inch are hard to find and are pricey 

Oh it’s a 2009 Monoco Knight 

do you have an email or a contact for AM industries can’t seem to find them or a website 

I rarely use my wipers but lately I have had to because of the heavy rains and strong winds the problem is it keeps blowing the 15 amp mini fuse when the wipers are working hard fighting the wind and rain has anyone else had this problem? I think the 15 amp fuse is to small I just ordered a resettable fuse but was think I should try a 20 amp first any thoughts 

thanks 

Oh it’s a 2009 Monoco Knight