Matt Lavender

Prayers and healing thoughts to all on this Monaco site. You are all great contributors and your hard work does not go unnoticed.  Thank you to all!!! 

On 9/30/2023 at 2:25 PM, 96 EVO said:

Yep.

Many of us who own coaches around that vintage have learned that lesson!

So, the internal filter part # was correct?

Yes, correct #83804 stamped on the side of the canister is in fact a #83804E filter inside.  WIX filter #51637 is identical, single filter.

On 9/28/2023 at 6:13 PM, Matt Lavender said:

Will do. Mine is mounted on the rear passenger side. 

I ordered a WIX filter 51637 and will have it tomorrow. Fleetguard 83804E crosses to the 51637. It appears mine only has the one filter in the reservoir.  Then there is also the additional spin on filter ZSE-10. I'll be doing this over the weekend and report back my findings.  Thanks

Looking up research it shows my power steering and hydraulic fan uses HD46, WRONG!!!!

It uses ATF, Transynd 295 fluid.

My canister only has one internal filter, see pics.

Mine also uses a spin on filter, ZSE-10.

SEE PICS.  Just cause it says it in the manual doesn't always make it right.

4 hours ago, dandick66 said:

I guess no one wants to take a shot at answering this??
 
Here is the filter info for my Diplomat - according to the manual - who knows if it’s right!
 

Mine is different than yours, so no comment on my end.  Tom Cherry is always pretty accurate on his info from what I've seen of his answers.  I would rely on his experience and expertise.

7 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Matt, Let us know if that IS the correct Nelson filter part number.

I've never seen that stamping on the side of my reservoir, but, mine is mounted about 180* opposite of yours!

Will do. Mine is mounted on the rear passenger side. 

I ordered a WIX filter 51637 and will have it tomorrow. Fleetguard 83804E crosses to the 51637. It appears mine only has the one filter in the reservoir.  Then there is also the additional spin on filter ZSE-10. I'll be doing this over the weekend and report back my findings.  Thanks

My bad, I thought mine was like yours.  I just got to mine and took some pictures of the reservoir and the separate spin on filter.  The fluid has a yellowish thinish type of an oil. It definitely is not ATF fluid so I assume mine is Texaco Rando HD46, or equivalent.  The side of the reservoir shows Fleetguard 91417  83804. I found a filter that is 83804E, I believe that will be the one I need.  Are there more than one in this reservoir? 

I have already bought the spin on filter ZSE-10, but would like to have everything on hand to do the job in one fell swoop.

Thanks all for the help and insight. 

I'll check the parts list, thanks.

On 9/22/2023 at 10:47 AM, Ray Davis said:

I can't tell from your picture if yours has a clamp, like mine does.   What holds your lid on?   Here's a picture of the clamp, after removing it my lid lifts/pops off.

Edit,  I would reinstall the plugs in the holes on top and wash the sand, etc. from the area.   You sure don't want to take a chance of it getting inside the system.

Any idea what filter is inside the canister?  Mine looks like that one.

Thanks

27 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Yep, That definitely be the reveered “Genie” and not a DIC Medallion. Switches and other stuff definitely different.  These things happen.  A former member purchased a 09 Camelot from LD.  December 08.  They said it was the “first” full width shade and visor they had sold.  Mine was stored on a “nobody wants us” lot for a time….supposedly.  But i bought it in Jan 2009 and it had beem delivered to a dealer in AL And then transferred to the Jacksonville CW….I signed the paper on Jan 13 (not a Friday) .  Go sort that out….LOL!

Nope, I don't have the controller on mine. 

5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

I would tell you that the Medallion system (I have it) is notorious for giving a LOW Battery warning.  Me and several others have seen this and we KNOW that our batteries are in great shape.  The BEST way (OK...there are many) but a simple one.  In the heat of the summer, stop and shut down the engine.  Then go back and unhook your toad (or wait the equivalent time.  Then, jump in, with the Front HVAC on and start the MH.  If you have that OMG.....pause, then it cranks....probably TIME to think about a chassis battery.  The engine when hot (90 dF day or so) will quickly heat up and expand.  That means the compression is higher.  With a NEW set (you need the 950 NOT the IDIOTIC 750's that Monaco put on the Camelot....the Dynasty got the better batteries) of 950's I STILL get the idiotic light.  BUT, I get 6 or 7 years out of the best Interstate Starting batteries.

As to the Software ID.  Call Medallion.  They will discuss that.  I THINK or maybe not....that MINE does it.  It has absolutely ZILCH or anything to do with the ECM or the ENGINE....strictly, I think, the Software in the Medallion brain that runs the system.

I'm not going to worry about it then, thank you for that info.

I will keep an eye on my AGM batteries, both chassis and coach.

thanks again for all the info.

6 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

What display are you seeing this message?

On the display at the dash. Same display shows temps, psi, fuel mileage, etc.

Does yours also show "Low Battery"?

Thanks

I've noticed prior to starting, after turning ignition key to on, the display shows a Software ID Rev 0.4. What does this pertain to?  I believe to know the engine revision # you need to be able to hook into the Insight Software from a Cummins repair facility.

I'm just curious to what this one is and should it be "updated"?

Also, since owning the rv, just before starting, it always has shown Low Battery in this display.  Previous owner said it's always shown that, but have never had an issue with starting coach.  It bugs me it shows Low Battery.  I've checked the batteries, both coach and chassis, and they are over 13 volts.

Thanks for all the wealth of knowledge on this site.

Matt

This happened in my town. Crazy to see, I'd never believe that could happen. The video was caught on a Tesla camera.

11 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Read my explanation a few posts up.  You only have a mini Intellitec house multiplex system very similar to what Tom Cherry has.

Oh, that's a great relief to hear!!  I was lucky because I had no clue when purchasing this in July 2022 from a friend. Flew from LAX to SC and drove it home.

So far so good.. Thanks again.

I had read the part about the dipswitches, but I wanted to be sure mine wasn't the "dreaded" system.

On 3/21/2023 at 5:12 AM, Frank McElroy said:

Adding a smart wheel controls module to the FRB will bring back the smart wheel functions.  The steering wheel keypads are already there.  Keep in mind that all the output functions would need to be fused and many would need separate relays to handle the load. 

Main battery power lines would need to be reconfigured so that power to the CCMs and dash would come from the chassis and not the house batteries. 

In addition to  reprogramming the engine ECM, separate wiring to the ECM would be needed for Jake, cruise, and brake lights.

Also, the engine ECM J1939 output tested bad - that's why the gauges are showing a communication error.  So it would need to be repaired or replaced.  Until that's done you really won't know if other systems like the dash gauges, Vorad, and ABS were also damaged by the lightning hit.

At the right price and in the hands of someone who knows what they are doing, this would be a good coach.  But someone who doesn't understand how to make the repairs will make a very costly mistake.

Thanks for all the great info Frank and sharing your time and knowledge with us.

I have a 2008 Scepter 40PDQ. When you say a "smartwheel", what determines a smartwheel?  On my steering wheel, I have my cruise control on left, windshield wipers and courtesy light flash controls.  

Also, in the bathroom area I have 3 control boxes that have the dipswitches. Are these the "better" multiplex system to have?  Or the dreaded one?   I have a living room interior light that does not work at the entry step rocker switch but the light will work at the 6 button lighted switch over the couch. I want to delve into this to get it working.

Thanks again to you and also to Tom Cherry for all the wisdom and insight you have.  I hope at some point I could reciprocate my knowledge to help.  

Tested and it still blows heat when jumpering the thermostat purple wires. Thanks for all your info always.  

On 1/1/2023 at 5:28 AM, Tom Cherry said:

 

My only advice…..if you have NOT upgraded your Cargo Heater (electric toaster), then download the file and do it…..assuming you might need it.  Otherwise, buy a metal trouble light and get a 60 watt bulb and a plug in freeze protection thermostat….

Good Luck…

Tom,

I've got the "toaster heater" and it still works. Any issues with keeping it in the wet bay?

Thanks

1 hour ago, isptbart said:

Matt & others - at 64 mph what RPM's are you running on a fairly level/flat road?

Thanks! Bart from VA

I think around 1600 rpm

On 1/13/2023 at 7:31 PM, Happycarz said:

Jon,

I sent you a PM.

Hello, do you still have the instructions? I have a 2008 40pdq Scepter,  which is basically identical to the Camelot.

Thank you,

12 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

When I was replacing my shower skylight, the fiberglass roof was about 1/4" above the insulation Styrofoam.

When I think of fiberglass roof, I think of hard like a surfboard. This surface resembles more rubbery of a top coat surface.

9 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Yeah, I notice it the most right on the rear cap.

That is mine too. 

12 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Normal with this one piece roof, usualy fiberglass, sometimes aluminum. It is only attached at walls and caps and otherwise floating. It would feel solid around the supports for major openings, like for the AC units, elsewhere it will flex a little.

Thanks for that info. It is definitely more supportive at edges and around the skylight and a/c units. Upon first stepping up onto the roof from the ladder I thought, oh no, this is not good.  But when it felt the same all over, I realized this is probably normal. Looked inside every cabinet at the ceiling area and no signs of any  leaks, ever. That made me feel a lot better.  I've had several motorhomes over the last 30 years, but never this quality of one. Our last motorhome was a 2005 Discovery 39' with the typical "hard" feeling roof that I've come to know.

Thanks again for your input.

I have a 2008 Holiday Rambler Scepter 40PDQ. It is the same as the Camelot 40PDQ. My question is the softness in the roof.

I'm used to a roof that feels hard.

This one has a softness feel to it, all areas. If it was in one spot, I'd say there is a problem for sure.

But this one feels the same all over. There is definitely no leaks now or ever.

Just trying to figure out why they feel this way.

Thank you.

Thanks Tom.

And yes, heading down a hill and all of a sudden coach starts to accelerate, will wake you up real quick.

I typically always drive with the exhaust brake off and switch it off and on as needed.

Thanks for all the insight. It's good to know about the Camelot, I learned that on this site I believe.

My 2008 Holiday Rambler Scepter with the 400 will apply exhaust brake while cruise control is on and will resume speed when needed.

As far as High Low setting, I'll have to see if that is somewhere on the panel, I don't recall seeing it before.

I love my 400, sweet spot seems to be around 64 mph.