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VinceB

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Posts posted by VinceB

  1. 3 hours ago, Bill C said:

    UPDATE (probably my last): Frig seems to run fine, been running on propane for 26 hours now, fins hot at the top, fan runs periodically to cool the fins, yet after 26 hours, freezer is 47 deg F and frig is 62 deg F. Frig tech said everything seems to be good, he could not see why it was not cooling properly.

    With everything seeming to be running normal, WHY ISN'T IT COOLING? Seals are good, and besides the freezer and frig seals are diff, yet both have low temps.

    I give up, unless one of my support gurus can assist, I guess I'll be buying a new frig.

    Thanks to everyone for their advice, and words of wisdom. No comment is to small, or insignificant 🙂

    Regards,

    Bill

    I realize this may sound crazy, but like you said, last resort time.

    Have you tightened up the screws in the freezer and fridge compartments? They are on the back wall.  If your cooling plate has worked its way away from the back of the fridge, it will not transfer cooling to the freezer/fridge compartments.  I had this problem once and I fixed it this way - never worked so good.

    Worth a try if everything else checks out.

  2. I keep my Aria "well-maintained" using all the tricks I found here.  It is still going strong - knock wood.

    I went to do regular cleaning and find the knob to open to slide manually is gone -missing - no where to be found.

    Thedford's site doesn't list the part; it lists everything else.

    If anyone is getting rid of their Aria and would like to sell the knob or knows of a replacment knob I'd appreciate it.

  3. I took my rock guard off years ago.  

    My Jeep toad and trailer were getting a lot of small rock chips.  The front bumper on the Jeep has sort of a shelf with depressions in it - they were full of small rocks & pebbles after towing a few hundred miles.

    An aeronautical engineer told me this was happening because of the low pressure area behind the coach and taking the huge mud flap off would allow air to flow thereby reducing the vacuum behind the coach. He was right; I removed it and that reduced chips and dings by about 95%. No more rocks and pebbles on the front bumper.

    There are  individual mud flaps behind the tires and I think that is all you need.

  4. 23 minutes ago, Robert U said:

    Use a water hose to spray different parts of windshield to locate leak. If you have more than one leak it is most  likelyw NOT the lights above. They still makethe gasket as I had mine replaced. I doubt if it is a bad gasket. The body on mh twists and the glass moves. Where are you located?

    The windshield shop is coming to check for leaks by the pressure method you suggest. They will do a more refined spray than I can do as they have the equipment for that. They will reseal the windshield if they find it leaks.  They'll hit the running lights at the top too but won't touch them.

    I'm in So Cal - La Verne, Pomona, San Dimas area - 91750.

    I'm told the OEM gasket is no longer available - only aftermarket. They really try not to replace the gasket unless absolutely necessary.

  5. Did a search here - nothing specific to this AFAICT.

    Heading into some very strong headwinds in the rain this weekend, and I get some fairly large drips running down the inside of the windshields - both sides. Towels on the dash get us home - the towels were pretty wet when we got home.

    At home, I call a local RV windshield shop thinking that my 23+ year-old windshield gaskets have seen their day.  The young lady on the phone was very knowledgeable and tells me that the 5 running lights above the windshield could be the problem - they see that a lot. She also says that they can't get OEM gaskets any longer and the ones that they can get just aren't as good - so keep the originals in place if possible.

    My problem is that I'm 70 (really don't see it - when did that happen?) and really don't want to hang off the roof to reseal the forward running lights (how do you reseal them exactly?) and climbing a ladder from the front doesn't work for me because of the height and the rearward slope of the windshields.  If I had a scaffold, life would be simpler.

    I'd like to reseal the running lights before I incur a $300 service call: I'm open to suggestions.

  6. On 2/14/2024 at 6:29 AM, windsorbill06 said:

    Your correct.  Julian is WEST of Ocotillo.  That won't effect you.  78 (not the 87) goes right through Glamis.  Many 45' coaches with stacker trailers, large 5'ver toy boxes,  and everything else you can imagine, have Glamis as their destination.  It's a sand dune mecca for off roaders and some say the largest sand dunes for recreational use in the country.  (not sure about that claim, however)    It's been a couple years since I was last there, but the 78 is  a narrow, 2 lane road, but doable.   All reasonably flat.  

     

    I drive 78 about 6x in dune season. You won’t have any problems. Was there just last week.

    BTW the Imperial Sand dunes, a.k.a. Glamis, is indeed, the largest Sand recreation area in the US.

  7. 5 hours ago, zmotorsports said:

     

    Yes, plus the lighter overall weight of those with the ISC was already an added benefit, even before bumping the power.  My cousin's 36' Allure weighs right around 26k pounds and ours is already more than 10k more than his before we even hook anything to them, so there was a big advantage already.

     

    Seeing you mentioned your traveling speed and economy, funny story.

     

    I generally travel around 65-67 MPH which seems to be where our coach is happy.  Not a fan of going much faster because tire ratings and for safety margin but that seems to be where I like to travel.  On average I net right around 7 MPG.  When we were towing our enclosed trailer loaded it was closer to 6.75 and when just flat towing we are between 7 and 7.25 the vast majority of the time.

     

    On one trip about 10 years ago, we invited my wife's sister and her family along on one of our trips as they had just bought a bumper pull travel trailer.  Her husband at the time would NOT go above 55 MPH the entire trip.  🤬  I think he was afraid to be behind the wheel of that setup as it was the first time he'd towed anything.  For that entire trip as I tried to increase speed and "hope" he would keep the gap somewhat tight, he would just drop behind in the mirror.  I did notice however, that trip we got the absolute best mileage we had ever gotten out of our coach at 9.5. 😲

    That reminds me of a fuel stop I made in NM  - can't recall where. 

    The truck stop was lined up like crazy and it was late in the day so I headed to the private station across the street.  When I paid I mentioned the significantly higher price. The owner, who was working the register, told me, "Just wait, you'll get the best mileage you've ever gotten."

    He was right. I got 11.5 that tank. I made sure I stopped there again on the way home and wanted to ask about the fuel but it was the owner's day off and the kid behind the counter had no clue.  The next tank was only 10.8 because of the headwind heading West.

  8. 8 hours ago, zmotorsports said:

     

    Yeah, that old Banks Powerpack kit really turned some of these rigs into hot rods.  Bumps the power output to 430hp/1200+ lb/ft of torque.   I put one on my cousin's 36' 2000 Country Coach Allure with the Cummins ISC about 15 or so years ago when they were available, and it totally transformed his coach.  Kind of sorry I did that afterwards as it made it nearly impossible to keep up with him.   Granted his coach is only 36' with one slide and towed a 20' enclosed trailer weighing around 8k loaded and with our 40' Dynasty we were towing a 13k pound 26' enclosed trailer, but still, it was hard to run with him up the grades.  

    And I'll get 10 MPG if I'm not towing and doing 60-62.  Gotta hand it to Mr. Banks.

    • Like 1
  9. On 2/12/2024 at 9:20 AM, Rikadoo said:

    My 2003 HR cummins will when approaching hills momintarily read full boost “30 psi” then it pulls back an long pulls drop to less somewhere 26 ish. At 1st thought a leak untill one time watching the EGT and at the time it was very close to 1200 degrees and over 30 psi m it dropped to 1100 ish instantly with psi now 26 psi. I had rembered that when i bought the new to me coach it already had a Banks Stinger kit installed on it. And reading the info on the stinger thats its main task in that it monitors the EGT temps when giving you full power and if the temps get to high it changes the fuel rate to reduce the temps which in turn lowers the psi. Its gotten so automatic for me i almost never pay attention to the gauge anymore.IMG_5928.thumb.jpeg.fa67ad4f6fe96769e1b077a84975f507.jpeg

    I have the same kit on my 330 ISC.  It will hit 32 psi and let the EGT climb to around 1250 and adjust the boost to keep it below 1250-1300. Generally I climb hills at 30 and 1250.  My biggest problem is out pulling the truckers and having to go around them.

    Once I saw it only go up to 27 but 1300 and thought there was a boost leak - sure enough there was.

    Another issue for low PSI and high EGT was the exhaust brake was not opening all the way (partially sticking closed) - had it replaced -problem solved.

    • Like 1
  10. On 1/29/2024 at 7:55 PM, VinceB said:

    My roof is not leaking at the moment. However, the edges of my center roof tape are starting to lift.  But the center of the tape looks to still be firmly in place.

    My thinking is that I take a utility knife and trim off the lifting edge sections. Leave the still firmly adhered center part and just purchase wider (6" or 8") tape and go over the original tape.

    That would save A LOT of prep and make for a more secure seal.  Granted, the edges of the old tape will form a ridge but that shouldn't be any/very much higher than the screws/rivets in the roof that the original tape covered.  If I cut on an angle, the ridge will be lessened.

    Thoughts?

    Anyone?

  11. On 1/31/2024 at 5:39 AM, pulsarjab said:

    UPDATE.............First, I want to thank all of you for the support. We have enjoyed our Diplomat for 15 years and this is the first major issue we have had and we have 128,000 miles on it. Things do wear out, ask my doctor. Anyway, first issue, Cummins needs to know the engine serial number in order to identify the part, I spent 45 minutes on the phone with support but was not able to read number. They suggested I get a shop to identify the serial number by reading the onboard computer. I also contacted www.monacocoach.com and gave then the Vin number, They were able to provide the engine serial number. I contacted a local shop Cummins recommended, just a mile from my location, and they were able to verify serial number, checked the leak, and ordered the parts, The parts arrive latter this week and will be installed by them. As everyone knows, inflation is affecting everything and diesel parts and good mechanics are no exception. Five hours of labor and $500 in parts is not cheap, but considering the service, I am dancing. Thanks again for all the help. I was not able to locate the three bolts on the top of the pump but after all these years of good service, replacement was a logical step and a big relief.

     

    Just went through this with my '01 Dip that has the 330 ISC.

    Yep - 5 hours labor and about $500 for the pump.  Plus about $20 for a new harness to fit the new pump.  So make sure you have them find out if you need the the harness and order the harness at the same time as the pump.

  12. My roof is not leaking at the moment. However, the edges of my center roof tape are starting to lift.  But the center of the tape looks to still be firmly in place.

    My thinking is that I take a utility knife and trim off the lifting edge sections. Leave the still firmly adhered center part and just purchase wider (6" or 8") tape and go over the original tape.

    That would save A LOT of prep and make for a more secure seal.  Granted, the edges of the old tape will form a ridge but that shouldn't be any/very much higher than the screws/rivets in the roof that the original tape covered.  If I cut on an angle, the ridge will be lessened.

    Thoughts?

  13. 9 minutes ago, Ken Thompson said:

    Yeah, they are cheap. I wanted top quality for my coach. As usual, I go over the top! I know there’s a lot of Diplomat’s out there that need new emblems. For me to get them done, first I would have to have an exact drawing, or one of those stickers. Then I would have to beg, and prolly pay my wife to do the artwork. The last Dynasty emblem were about $85 each, if I remember right. That was over a year ago. We all know how prices for everything has went way up, so they may be too expensive for very many people to do them.  

    I don’t recall what I did with them. Maybe tossed them. I’ll give a look after I get home next week. 

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