VinceB

On 3/30/2023 at 12:07 PM, Gospel said:

/when mine did not work the power interrupter in the bathroom next to the sink was out, reset and it worked fine. 

Same here. But it kept tripping. I noticed that the ice maker is on the same circuit. Unplugged the fridge and it stopped tripping.
 

Next step is to unplug ice maker to figure out if it’s the ice maker or fridge. last time it was the ice maker and I hope it’s the same thing again. 

On 4/7/2023 at 10:07 AM, JDCrow said:

I’ve owned my Dip for 2 years now and have never, ever had this happen.

I currently have it winterized and I keep a small space heater in there to turn on when I go over and do some work inside. It’s hooked to 50 amps 24/7

This morn, I left for work and thought my jeep was loud, turns out tue generator was on! Got inside and turned it off on the dash. 
 

I have ZERO idea why this happened. Any direction on where to start looking? 

I’ll add, that I’ve changed the inverter/charger, have new batteries, no Gen start modules that I know of. 

I’ll add, that I’ve changed the inverter/charger, have new batteries, no Gen start modules that I know of. 

Yeah, mine did that a few years ago - only time in 19 years I've owned the coach.

I took the connector apart - the only one, blew it out, checked for corrosion (none), then applied a generous amount of dielectric grease and it hasn't done it since. Even though it was a foggy night, it did not appear to be wet so I can't really say for sure what the issue was.

There is a small shelf right above it - I imagine that it is there to keep water from falling directly on the connector.

7 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

If you had it at Cummins, they just might have automatically done it, if it really is the case. It's not done remotely...

Never at Cummins but at a Cummins authorized mechanic. They are good - doubt that they would have updated the ECM and not mentioned it.

30 minutes ago, TLMonaco said:

I have this exact problem on my 2001 Diplomat. Where exactly did you put the foam?

Thanks

Tom

In the leading arm of the awning over the entry door. There's a void that runs the length of the arm on the side that is closest to the body of the coach - I fill as much of the void as I can.

23 minutes ago, Robert U said:

Don't trouble trouble till trouble troubles you . Ecm probably changed by Banks upgrade.

Bob U 2000 Dip

I did the Banks kit in 2005 so that's not it if the software is from 2015.  I don't know how the software got upgraded to a 2015 rev or by who.

To this day, the awning over my entry door whisltes when at speed. It took a directional microphone to find the noise. The fix was to cut a piece of foam and insert it into the awning frame. I took the foam from those tubes people float on in a pool.

I can tell when the foam gets aged out - the whistle comes back.

My mechanic got the error below when reading the engine data. He said the currenet software is from 2015 - I don't recall anyone ever updating the ECM.  As you might guess, I'm a bit blindsided by this information.

Is this really a thing and should I do the $250 update. Keep in mind that I have the Banks ECM and turbo kit. 

It runs extremely well as it is and I'd hate to "fix" it.

****FOUND ECM OUT OF CALIBRATION NEEDS
SOFTWARE UPDATE****
CONFIGURATIONS AND MODEL NAME
Marketing Engine Configuration # D413028BV08
Marketing Model Name ISC 330
Service Model Name ISC CM554
Technical Engine Configuration # D413028BX03
ENGINE BUILD DETAILS
Build Date 2000-09-07T00:00:00Z
Build Plant CNS - CONSOLIDATED DIESEL CO.
Shop Order SO64874
Warranty Start Date 2000-10-12T00:00:00Z
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION DETAILS
ECM Code J91044
Fuel Pump Part # 4010173
Fuel Pump Calibration GG49

My coach failed to air up.  After a couple of days sitting, it then air up like always. Since then I've been afraid to dump the air.

I took it to my mechanic and he says that when it was sticking there was no 12 volts to it.  So he thinks to start with the dash switch.

But my question is that if there is no 12v then would not the valve close and let the bags air up?

I'm waiting for dilithium crystals or a Mr. Fusion. 😊

6 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

If your Norcold box and doors are in good shape and your cooling unit is bad I would consider the 12 volt dual compressor from JC refrigeration. I installed one last summer and it’s the best upgrade I’ve done to our motorhome. It works just like a residential and no modifications. It cools down In a few hours and stays 0 in the freezer and 36 in fridge no mater what the outside temp is.  
https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/norcold-1200-1201-hvac-12v-dc-replacement-unit/

Does the JC upgrade use the Norcold controls?  If so, what number do you run it on to get 36° in the refrigerator section?  I ask this becuase we like to run it colder than that.

Also, what kind of battery consumption do you experience at 36°?

On 2/4/2023 at 9:32 AM, jacwjames said:

After ~4-6 hours put your hand on the back of the freeze wall, you should start to feel it getting really cold.  If not I'd be concerned. 

It would take my Norcold a full day to get cold enough to start putting food in it.  It never really did perform really well.  When it finally died we had to remove the cooling unit off the rear of it to take the fridge out the front door.  There was a heavy bead of caulk/sealant around the rear where the cooling unit mates to the fridge and when we removed it I could see that there was a pretty good gap between the two surfaces.  No wonder it wasn't/didn't cool, it relies on cold transfer to be efficient, an air gap is the last thing you want.

Replace it with a Samsun, takes ~2 hours to cool down after I turn it on and within 24 hours I have several pounds of ice in the ice maker bin. 

My freezer starts to get cold in a couple of hours on a 75° day.  I'm pretty sure this is due to the fact that I frequently check the screws that attach the cooling unit Jim mentions above. There are scews in the freezer compartments and the cooling fins in the refrigerator section that pull the cooling unit tight to the cold compartments.

The screws tend to walk themselves out and produce that gap he mentions. Once in a while, I can give them a ½ turn or so. I also rigged up some old computer fans to blow air across the fins.  It doesn't take much air movement: it sure produces results and keeps frost from forming.

30° on a 75° day is normal for mine on propane or 110. So I'll keep it as long as I can.

On 1/30/2023 at 9:36 PM, Carnac said:

Can you post a picture(s)?

Did you have to send measurements to Shade Pro or did have have a listing for your 2005 Monaco?

Thanks - Jim

I have ShadePro and love it - nice and durable. I just picked out year, make , and model on their site. It doesnt fit EXACTLY due to the nature of our snowflakes but they provided inserts to take up the slack around the defroster vents. I'd give 4.5 stars.

1 hour ago, StellaTariche said:

Hi Vince.  It was a while ago (and earlier in the thread- page 2).

I got the tail lights on ebay in 2016.

Search for "Tail Lights FOR 1973-1978 GMC K15/C15/C1500 Pickup Smoke Rear Brake Taillights"

This link seems to find them:  https://www.ebay.com/b/Tail-Lights-for-GMC-K15/33716/bn_1392110

They are great with LED bulbs - keeps traffic behind me well informed.

Note: You'll need two pair.

 

I'm curious. My tail lights are a split system - one unit for stop/running lights and the other for turn signals. Did you combine functions of the 2 units on each side or do you still have the split system?

50 minutes ago, StellaTariche said:

Hi Vince.  It was a while ago (and earlier in the thread- page 2).

I got the tail lights on ebay in 2016.

Search for "Tail Lights FOR 1973-1978 GMC K15/C15/C1500 Pickup Smoke Rear Brake Taillights"

This link seems to find them:  https://www.ebay.com/b/Tail-Lights-for-GMC-K15/33716/bn_1392110

They are great with LED bulbs - keeps traffic behind me well informed.

Note: You'll need two pair.

 

Thanks, I'll check them out.

I like the tail lights on your coach. Where did you get them and part numbers please?

On 1/27/2023 at 2:04 PM, myrontruex said:

Take a few pictures and folks here will know exactly what unit you have. 

I had to replace a motor on one of mine. Lubing probably would have extended the inevitable replacement. Getting the furnace out was not that difficult and not the first one I have ever repaired by pulling them out. 

You might find mud dauber nests inside if you are lucky. 

I watched a few of the Youtube vids. I don't see where it can be lubed.  The motor looks like a sealed unit.

16 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Sort of YES and NO...

YES....there is NO charging of the Chassis when camping and having Genny or Shore.  That was always a big issue.  The Xantrex Echo should do the trick....but not being up on it's specs.....all you need to charge or maintain the Chassis is a THREE STAGE (Desulfonator option is nice).  Once you get the Chassis Charged, it takes less than 2 amps to maintain them.  Some have put on cheap 6/12 chargers and never shut off and cooked their Chassis Battery....so read up and understand.  You only NEED a little current to maintain.  That overcomes the normal parasitic load.

Isolator.  The device that was in the link....and you don't (not saying NO) think you have it.  It is NEEDED or necessary or was originally INSTALLED from the factory.  If you READ the info, they basically do NOT start charging the House until after the engine (Diesel) is running.  Intellitec makes one....

https://intellitec.com/isolator-relay-delay/

Thus, there are BIG ones (like the link) and smaller ones.....What you need to do is get a VOM and start to troubleshoot and understand.  When you let the Diesel warm up for a few minutes, the Isolator relay is SUPPOSED to send a 12 VDC signal to the Boost Solenoid in your picture.  Then you get the banks connected and you get DUAL charging.  If you had the Intelltiec BIRD system, you would then get a BiDirectional charging.  So, when the genny or Shore was on.....you charge BOTH banks.  Likewise....when you drive....you get BOTH.  NOW, you CAN install a BIRD module.  BUT, The original BIRD Module would be the one.  The later Diesel 2 was designed for lower voltage.  I am NOT sure how your White Roberts is rated...as to what the lock in or holding voltage is.  If you get the PN off it, you can find out....

As far as LOW TECH... it was a matter of "State of the Art in Development".  The isolator delay kept the house batteries charged whilst driving....a VERY IMPORTANT feature.  As technology and design engineers kept working on it....they developed the BIRD system. Circa 2007, it was the Diesel2 BIRD system that Monaco used.  That solved it....

OK....a word of caution or education.  The White Rogers will blow it contact up....unless you understand and use caution.  You CAN use the Boost to start the Genny.....assuming your HOUSE bank ain't totally DEAD.  The boost (logical ...very LOGICAL) gets its Power (Source) from the HOUSE....so you can use it to ASSIST the Engine.  BUT, if the House set is dead, it AIN"T gonna have any 12 VDC to energize the coil and use the Chassis to start the Genny.  A JUMPER cable is needed between the TWO banks (POSITIVE ONLY).  Once you get the Genny started....then you are charging the House.  BUT....in that situation, the House bank is woefully INADEQUATE.  YES....the Inverter is pumping 80 Amps or more into the batteries.  OPPS....it takes almost 1400 AMPS from the Chassis bank to turn over Big Bertha Diesel Mama.  SO, you have let the House get recharged somewhat, otherwise you will really deep cycle (as in DEEP SIX) the Deep Cycle House....so KNOW THAT AND BE CAREFUL.

NOW....what you were doing, with a fully or reasonably well charged House Bank to ASSIST is fine.  BUT....KNOW THIS.  If you read the Manual....it says (paraphrasing) that you need to HAVE SOME VOLTAGE in the Chassis Bank.  That is why the tell you to HOLD ON THE BOOST for a period of time....and put a surface charge on the Chassis.  THEN, you CAN use....with knowledge and caution....the Boost Switch to start the Chassis.  OK....this a a LOT....

BUT....to keep it simple....  You will need a helper..  Have someone turn on the ignition.  Then have them PRESS the Boost Switch.  Measure the VOLTAGE across the small coils.  That should be 12 VDC or maybe a bit higher.  You should ALSO here a CLICK or CLUNK that shows it is engaged.  NOW....measure the voltage (DC) across the large Terminals with the engine running and the BOOST switch PUSHED ON.  You should see less than maybe 0.2 or 0.1....in a perfect world, it would be 0.05 or less.  That means that there is NO voltage drop across the large contacts.  OK....if that is FINE....you have then TESTED the Boost Solenoid.  You KNOW it works when you use the Boost switch.

NOW....let the engine run....and also release the BOOST.  The SAME thing should be happening....wherever the Isolator Delay or Isolator Boost "device" is, it SHOULD be sending 12 VDC to the terminals on the Boost Solenoid.....JUST LIKE IT DID WITH THE BOOST ON.  If no control or 12 VDC then the Isolator Device....is DEFECTIVE....and needs to be replaced.

Finally....When the ENGINE is running....what is the VOLTAGE (Chassis Bank) across the TERMINALS (Positive and Negative. YES....you are correct...it should be in the 13.5 of higher range.  If it ain't and is only 12.5....then there is a problem with the Voltage Regulator and/or Alternator.  NOW....carry that one step further....as you SAID, the Boost Solenoid should be ENGAGED when the engine if running....so if so...and there is barely a small voltage drop across the studs...then the HOUSE should be close to the SAME voltage as the Chassis.  That is how it works..  Noodle it over...

Good Luck....let us know what you find...

Thanks for the detailed response. I will let you know what I find but it will take a while as I have to wait for the paint shop to complete the final paint correction, paint awnings and re-install, and paint the window/door frames.  Should have it back next week but...

14 hours ago, cbr046 said:

You have to go in from outside the coach.  Basically the furnace will slide out like a cassette, leaving the metal shell in the coach.  No need to disconnect ductwork.  Make sure you soap-test the propane connection when re-installing.

The fan on mine was rubbing on the metal shell.  I tried to slide (pry) the fan on the shaft away from the metal a bit but it wouldn't budge.  It's plastic so don't break it.  I must have moved it some as it didn't squeel against housing anymore.  The furnace is tricky to disassemble but with patience can be done.  Think jigsaw puzzle: Eventually everything fits if you don't force it. 

On the old gasser I had muddobbers build a nest inside the combustion chamber.  Add to that Spider mites were clogging the jet orfice.  Very tiny little buggers. 

Good luck,

- bob

 

Thanks. I'll look into doing that.

12 hours ago, Rick A said:

I use my Leaf blower 3 times a year to carefully blow the dust and garbage out. I then use WD40 spray with the thin  extension pipe to blast a few quick spurts on each bearing. Seams to have kept it running and looking good. 
 

Where are you blowing the air?  Inside into one of the heating ducts or from the outside exhaust vents?  How do you get to the bearings - from the outside?

I appreciate you guy's help.

55 minutes ago, Frank Bergamo said:

Your picture is not an isolator. That looks like the battery boost solenoid. Here is a link to what you.probably have, https://www.motorcityreman.com/2-165.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=2-165&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh__c6c_m_AIVWQ2tBh0CVATqEAQYAiABEgLmMPD_BwE. Look around on the internet for a better price. Hope this helps.

I'm no electrical whiz, but COULD the following be the theory of operation...?

At rest, the banks are isolated. Dry camping would never run down the chassis batteries this way. On a start attempt of the big engine, the battery banks are not tied together unless you hit the AUX switch.

After big engine start, 12v is sent to the solenoid to tie the banks together so they both charge.

FYI & FWIW, neither the generator nor shore power ever did charge the chassis battery bank. I had to install a Xantrex Echo to solve that problem. Also an FYI, I could start the generator, hit the AUX switch and start the big engine if the chassis bank was insufficient. I used that trick in cold weather to get a better cranking RPM.

So perhaps Monaco was getting double function out of this solenoid as a cheap way to do things in a low-tech way?

I'll have to check.

2 hours ago, Ivylog said:

With the engine running do you have 12V to the small wires on the solenoid…energized? Where do the small wires go? Doubt you have a BIRD.

I'll have to check

49 minutes ago, Frank Bergamo said:

Your picture is not an isolator. That looks like the battery boost solenoid. Here is a link to what you.probably have, https://www.motorcityreman.com/2-165.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=2-165&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh__c6c_m_AIVWQ2tBh0CVATqEAQYAiABEgLmMPD_BwE. Look around on the internet for a better price. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the response but there is nothing like that on my coach.

As the post title suggests, my Atwood makes a lot of noise but functions.

I opened the compartment under the fridge that the unit lives in but it looks like there is no way to get into the unit to lube the fan. Or is that even an option?

Zero documentation came with the coach which is why I don't provide a model #.

Suggestions?

I know this is an older thread but...

I have (I think) a similar issue.  I notice after driving, my house batteries are at only 12.5v according to the panel.  When the big engine is running, I assume that the voltage should jump up to 13.5 or so as when the generator is running. Testing across the isolator terminals confirms the alternator is not charging the house batteries.

This makes me think my isolator is not working.  Here's a pic of what I have. They are available on the web and 1 is on the way.

My question is am I on the right track? Or could it be something else? I don't know that I have a BIRD board (?)

30 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:

I doubt that POR-15 would stick to plastic.
It will work well on the metal though.

Is the plastic removable?
If so, I'd remove it and paint anything underneath it, then just clean the plastic and reinstall.

I haven't had a chance to take a good look to see if the liner is removable. But I assume that it would be. I'll have to remove all 6 batteries to make certain.

If I can get it out I will but this has to wait until the holidays are behind us.

On 12/15/2022 at 5:57 PM, dl_racing427 said:

...

I'd use POR-15 to coat the bay.
It's designed to work over rusty metal.  Just wire brush any loose or scaly rust, clean thoroughly and paint with POR-15.
It sets rock hard, has great adhesion, and stands up well to abrasion and chemicals.

Received the POR-15 today.  Went to coat the bay and it has a plastic liner. The walls are coated metal however.

Have you a plastic liner too? If so, did you use the POR-15 on it?

In addition to all the other great suggestions I suggest that you check the foam rubber gaskets on the underside of the shroud. Over time they go flat.

On my Dometics there is foam that creates seperate chambers in the unit: one for each coil. Bouncing down the road along with heat makes the gaskets flatten out becoming ineffective. The foam keeps the air for each coil from mixing with the other - they also keep the air moving in the right directions.  If these 2 air masses are allowed to mix short cycling can result which takes a toll on the breaker as well as the compressor motor. 

I had a unit that was occasionaly tripping its breaker.  It wasn't blowing real cold either. I also noticed that the compressor was cycling - probably had too high of pressure in one side of the system. After some trouble shooting, I found nothing. Sitting there just staring at the unit, I saw flat gaskets in the shroud - an Ah Ha! moment. Installed new gaskets and breaker which solved the problems.

Back in the day new shrouds came with the gaskets pre-installed - no more. There are gasket kits available but are ridiculous in price.  I went to H Depot and bought some window AC foam on a roll - self adhesive on one side - just a few dollars - IIRC 3/4" thick. The material seems to last just as long as the OEM.

The challenge was lining the foam up on the underside of the shroud.  So I just figured out where they needed to go and stuck them on the coils and other sheet metal where needed. It was not rocket surgery.

I now pay attention to how often the compressors cycle and the output of each unit taking into consideration ambient temperatures - more art than science.  When I hear short cycling or I detect that a unit is under performing I know it is time to replace the gaskets.  I've had to do it 3x over the years. I replaced only the 1 breaker in 22 years because I didn't replace the gaskets in time.

Bottom line: this is the first thing I check when a breaker trips or a unit is not performing.