Jcparmley

Hello All

I have a 1997 Monaco Executive that I am having trouble with the levelers.  I purchased the RV over a year ago and have been slowly remodeling the inside.  The previous owner said he didn't mess with the leveler system and that the "auto" has never really worked so he only used it manually.  When we first got the coach, the control panel wouldn't turn on unless you gave it a wack with your hand.  So my assumption was it was a loose connection.  After a while it wouldn't turn on at all.  So just in case it was the power switch I ordered a new one from RVA.  I removed the the control panel that was in the armrest of the driver and attempted to find the loose connection.  I couldn't find one.  I checked with my volt meter and the panel isn't getting 12 volts.  So I checked the 15 amp fuse in the front compartment and it looks good, and has continuity between the posts.  So I looked up at the Leveler Safety Relay and noticed that someone had "rigged" with the relay and it was not wired as it came from the factory.

So, I pulled out my wiring diagram and this is where things got interesting.  Ay previous owner, or mechanic has messed with this relay and I am not even sure how I can test it.  This is what my wiring diagram now shows.

So if you follow the diagram I should have brown wire going from the "Start Solenoid" 

Question #1:  Should this brown wire from the Start Solenoid have 12 volts?

That brown wire goes to a the "Neutral Safety" Relay.  Out of the Neutral relay is a brown wire going to a connector in the center console labeled M12B

Question #2:  Should the brown wire from the Neutral Safety Relay to the connector M12B have 12 volts?  It currently does NOT have 12 volts.

From connector M12B another brown wire goes to the "Leveler Safety Relay" in the front electrical panel under the driver seat.  This is where my wiring diagram turns into a mess to translate. 

Can anyone answer the first two questions? 

And, can anyone help me make sense of this Leveler Safety Relay?

One last thing.  I took my 12 volt battery jumper and using a jumper wire I connected it to the control board on/off switch directly and the board lit up and I was able to lower and lift the jacks as normal.  However, the on off switch when turned off did not turn off the board, so that might still be an issue.  Either way, it looks like I can "hotwire" the control board and still have use of the jacks.  But that isn't what I prefer.

On 1/2/2023 at 7:33 PM, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

That's interesting. My 05 Ambassador (2 piece) windshield didn't have any "polyurethane" on it from the factory. I went through about 3 replacements without polyurethane. They always asked me if I wanted it. I said no, it came from the factory without it. I was always having problems with the upper right corner not staying in the gasket. I was having the windshield reset in the Goshen area by a person who glued the windshields in the gasket at the factory. I told him no glue, it never had glue. His reply was my motorhome was probably moved to the windshield installation bay on a Friday and when they returned on Monday, they probably pushed my MH to the next assembly assuming it was done on Friday. He said that has happened before. I now have the glue on the passenger side but not on the driver's side. "When" I have to replace the driver's side I will use da glue. I was told not to use the polyurethane with primer, prime the gasket first then use the pure urethane. That method has worked great for me.

Gary 05 AMB DST

Do you know what gasket is used?

I am looking for a windshield gasket for my 97 Monaco Executive. My windshield needs to be reset.  The old gasket is hard from sun exposure.  I had to tape the seams of the windshield just to drive it home from Colorado to Wisconsin because the wind noise was awful.  Anyhow, after a lot of calling around I found a shop who can do the work but they won't guarantee the work because of the age of the motor-home.  Anyhow, I am looking for the proper gasket and having trouble.  The parts PDF on this site doesn't seem to have the gasket listed, unless I am missing it.  Does anyone know what gasket is used?  Also, does anyone have any good advice on what should be done and what shouldn't, such as:  using sealant or not?  Thanks

23 minutes ago, Tim-AZ said:

My first step would be checking grounds. Make sure all of your connections including the ground in your 120 circuit box or boxes including the inverter box are all tight. On a second note isn’t it a little chilly to be back in Wisconsin now?

Yes. I live in Wisconsin and it is -10 today. Unfortunately I have another 20 or so years to work so I can’t go south quite yet.   I did check the grounds that I could find. I will look for more. 

13 minutes ago, Fasthobie16 said:

GFCI receptacles trip when there is an unbalanced amount of current between the hot and neutral. That would mean that some is going to ground. That protects you from a shock or electrocution. Or  …. They are wired wrong. You don’t say if anything is plugged in to the circuit or not. You may have a piece of equipment that may be causing the problem. Isolate the problem by starting out with one unit at a time till it trips. My coach 120volt panel has GFI breakers for the circuits that need that protection.  (I have no GFI receptacles in the coach).They work much better than GFI outlets. If you install them make sure you wire the neutral (white wire ) for that circuit to the breaker and put the curly white wire on the breaker to the neutral bar. The  you put regular outlets in place of the GFI outlets. The GFCI breaker will protect the whole circuit. 

I was thinking about installing the GFCI breaker and just leaving every outlet as is. That’s a good idea. Thank you

12 minutes ago, Dwight Lindsey said:

Most GFCI outlets do not like Modified Sine Wave Inverters.

Xantrex published an article about this, that you can find here:

https://nanopdf.com/download/gfci-compatabilities-output_pdf

I bought one of the Pass & Seymour GFCIs and it worked fine for many years.

I've since upgraded to a Magnum Pure Sine Wave inverter and of course the GFCI continues to work well.

IF you have an MSW inverter, probably the GFCI issue can be solved by buying one of the "Xantrex MSW approved" GFCI outlets.  That will be your cheap solution, compared with replacing the inverter with a PSW inverter.

Dwight

I have a new pure sine inverter to install. The unit that is in the coach is a “heart” unit. I’m not sure if it is modified or pure. The outlet would trip when I plugged in my cell phone charger or electric toothbrush. So clearly something was not correct. But my tester showed that everything was wired correctly. That’s why I thought it might be the inverter. 

I purchased a 97 Monaco Executive this past October.  I flew out to Colorado to purchase it and drive it home to Wisconsin.  On the way home I noticed that every time I plugged something into the outlets the GFCI tripped.  I stopped at Walmart to sleep and purchased a couple new GFCI outlets assuming that the ones in the RV were old.  Switching them out did not work and the new GFCI tripped as well.  So the next day I purchased a tester and the test showed that the wiring was ok.  So I purchased a standard outlet and installed them until I made it home.  Now I need to figure out what is happening and why the GFCI keeps tripping.  I am planing on upgrading the inverter from the old one to a new Zantrex 3012.  Any suggestions on where I should start to diagnose the GFCI issue?

Hello All

I purchased a 97 Monaco Executive this October.  The dash blower only works when I turn the dial to high.  I thought it was the HVAC controller on the dash so I purchased one off of ebay.  Anyhow, after installing it the blower still only works on high.  So I thought that it might be a relay but when I look at the blower box I can't seem to find one.  Obviously it could be the fan has gone bad but I thought I would try the easy stuff first.  Any suggestions?

So the consensus is that it might or might not?  I guess I just have see when I pick it up.  What are your thoughts on the 97 Monaco Executive with M11?

5 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

No.  It has a mechanical engine, therefore there is no ECU or data associated with a computer controlled engine (which went into production the following year).

  - Rick N 

Oh, that's no good.  I was hoping it did so I could use my Bluefire.  I thought the M11 had the celect injector so there must be a computer somewhere but it must not transmit any other data such as temps, etc.  Is that correct?

Hello All

My name is Jared.  I am planing on purchasing a 1997 Monaco Executive with Cummins M11 450hp engine.  I was wondering if that coach has a diagnostic port such as the J1708?

Thanks. I was just asking because I have a series 60 from my bus and I was debating if I should keep it just in case I need an engine for the evening or sell it. 

Hello All

I am wondering if a Series 60 will fit in a 1997 Monaco Executive with a M11 Cummins?

On 1/27/2022 at 8:08 AM, StellaTariche said:

That is the correct link:  https://www.irv2.com/forums/f53/bluefire-dashboard-community-share-427121.html 

‘One contributor makes his gauges look really nice (Dark mode is easier on your eyes, and the background is easy to do:

See Examples:

Here is how he does the graphic backgrounds:

“The technique I use is to create the background image in a vector graphics illustration tool. Save that as a 300 dpi .png file. Then on your dash layout create at text gauge and load the file as the 'text image' ... and 'check' the setting 'Show behind all other gauges'. Then on an iPad you change the gauge size to width 1020 height 746 ... and then lock the gauge. That's it.Here's another example. Still fiddling with what to show and what not to show to maximize ease of viewing and not make the display too busy. “

Do you know what the username is who created this gauge using bluefire?