rschley

Hello Tom, VOM checked input at the solenoid connector and have 7 volts dc coming in. Thinking that I can safely conclude a bad solenoid. Any thoughts on an HWH part number ? I will be calling the company tomorrow and Googling info yet tonight. Thanks for your help. Ron

Hello Tom, Thanks for the docs. I downloaded and will be able to locate the correct pages. I will take a close look. I have "tapped" with a hammer on all 6 solenoids and had no success. I will dig further on the switches and consider Frank's suggestion also. I have attached a few pics, in case you wanted to take a look. Thanks for your help, as always. Ron

Yes I do. It has the same pitch and noise while pushing the in button as well as the out button.

Have parked down south for 6 months with slide extended. Time to leave and drivers side living room slide wont come in. Galley side and generator slides both work. I checked all bay doors and appear to be closed and switch is in. Checked owners manual and everything seems ok. Any ideas where any fuses would be located relating to the slide? The Manual suggested checking for fuses. Any ideas would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ron

Thanks Scotty!

Thanks Tom. ( you too Bill) I appreciate your always good advice. You have saved me a lot of money and frustration over the past few years. I will give that a try. Makes good sense. I figured that a replacement would be pricey. Just the end is bent, I think that I can fix it. Thanks for being so detailed and specific. It will be at least a week before I can get to it. Kids are visiting. I will let you know how it turns out. Ron

Thanks. I will Google them right now.

Stupidly backed over something that I shouldn’t have. Bent the metal back plate and chrome piece on the end. Looks like they can be bent back into place, but guessing that it will never look the same. Anyone successfully made such a repair and/or can anyone suggest a salvage yard where I can get a used one? Have to think that there is one out there somewhere. Thank you in advance for any suggestions. Much appreciated.

All the responses were great and I learned a lot. Applied the last suggestion and the problem still persists. I will now focus on seeing if the Alladin is giving me an erroneous message.

Thanks for input. Aladdin shows Leg 2 as OFF. Testing incoming power as well as outgoing from newly installed circuit breaker and all look good. Alladin appears to be wrong. You are right. Measuring to negative ground shows 120. Installed new breaker. Aladdin still shows Leg 2 out. All else tests fine.

Thanks for your input. With new breaker and AlnoOx, I did as you suggested and have proper voltage to both lugs and to to negative strip ( one with the white wires). Using a noncontact voltage tester, each black wire leading to each circuit breaker is showing current. Assuming all is Ok. Kenwood is still showing Leg 2 is OFF. I understand that the forum discussion is done. I will review Kenwood related input and see what I can figure out. Thanks to all for the help. Great source of info and encouragement. Take care to all of you !

That makes perfect sense. I think that I can follow that. So, if Leg 2 were really inop, many of my outlets and appliances would not work? Both ACs have run on Leg 1, but oftentimes reluctant to have the compressor kick in. No sub panels. I can check for markings. I will check this weekend. Thanks!! Making me think. Learning a lot.

Problem is Alladin showing Leg 2 as off. When running AC or other electrical draws, they all appear on Leg 1. Excellent point on the Alladin connection to the transfer switch. I will check that. Good idea. Thanks !!

I have not seen it in the campgrounds. Mine was installed about a year ago.

Good idea. I will try that. Electrician said GFI was now required on RV plug ins. At least here in MN. Thanks!!

Hello Tom and others, Sorry for being so unclear. After reading and rereading and learning from your posts, let me try to clarify with this... After testing ATS and with breaker installed, all looked good...120 on L1 and L2 and 240 when combined. Went all the way to the breaker in the panel. I then disconnected the breaker and set it aside (just checked it for continuity and it was ok) leaving me the Red/Black #6 wire and Black #6 wire with bare ends as shown in the picture. Then in one of those uneducated "just for the heck of it moves" Now with the breaker eliminated from the equation, I ran a meter test from the Black/Red #6 to the bottom snap in tab (previously referred to silver tabs) and had 120v. I then ran a test from the Black #6 to the top snap in tab (previously referred to as the silver tab) and had a reading of 0v. I had expected that to be 120v since the other leg was 120v, leading me to believe this might lead to the problem. If this is an erroneous way of testing this, please feel free to let me know. My ego will recover. If this helps, send a response. Otherwise I will rerun the tests to confirm my facts and can repost. Just got it back to my 50 amp source of power. . (I hesitate to cloud the issue, but this might be noteworthy in a diagnosis of the problem. I am plugged into my home 50 amp source that has a GFI breaker. I start the 10k generator. After about 30seconds, or when generator kicks in, the 50amp breaker trips.) That leads to an ATS issue, although it tested (by an amateur) out OK. I appreciate all the input. Any additional thoughts ?? I will try out the suggestions that were already posted.

What happens… looking at the picture, exposed wires are from ATS, hook meter to top wire then to silver plate in box, where breaker connects, 0 volts. Hook meter to bottom wire and touch silver plate in box, have 120 volts. All else tests ok to this point.

Posted previously in March. Still an issue. Brought to shop and they didn’t help much. I don’t have power on Leg 2, per Kenwood display. Happens on both shore and generator. Checked ATS ( not IOTA brand) 120 in as well as 240 out on shore and generator. Tightened all lugs. Went to panel, tightened all lugs. Tested incoming and outgoing lugs on Breaker. 120 and 240 in and out each lug. Removed breaker from panel and tested continuity on both sides of the breaker and was good. Now, with both incoming wires exposed, I tested each wire to the silver connection in the panel and one was 120 and other was 0. Appears power is getting to both legs in but not continuing on with one of the legs. Any suggestions??

I have to agree with you and Dexter. Seems quite risky to run without a filter. The previous owner owned a trucking company and is a truck driver. Hoping that he knew what he was doing and another filter exists somewhere. Thanks for the input. Always good stuff. Thanks Dexter. Was just reading about how expensive it is to replace the engine…or even the injectors or fuel pump, you have good advice for me. The rig spends a lot of its time on the Gulf, high humidity area. I will get it fixed ASAP. I was very surprised to see the retrofit. Thanks!!

I would appreciate some of your expertise on my issue I have the Cummins 500HP Red Top diesel. Cranks over, no problem, but does not fire. Had not been started for about a month. After several unsuccessful attempts, turning over freely, waited 30 minutes and gave it a try and it started. Has started without a problem several times since. Checked fuel filter and discovered that it has been rerouted…inlet direct to outlet. Previous 2 owners were “ straight shooters” and wonder why the modification. Any insight as why the temporary (or maybe reoccurring) failure to start. Want to be able to trust that I won’t get stranded. How might I direct my mechanic to fix this? How serious is the lack of a fuel filter and water separator? Should I fix that? Your input is always appreciated. You guys have saved me some major money! Thanks

Good idea. I have a meter, how would I do that?

2005 Monaco Executive To the right of the passenger seat are several switches for ceiling lights, grab bar light, bay lights, step light, and porch light. All of them stopped working at the same time. I checked the fuses in the closet and all are good. The step, shade and step cover switches on the same panel all work. A local tech at the local RV Service took the panel off and did a general look and all was ok. Any ideas? Bad switch? Check for more fuses? Your help I’ll be greatly appreciated.

Ok. 14 amp for just 1 makes sense. I misspoke. You are right. We are on 50 amp shore power. Thanks for your input. All makes sense. I have meters and will do some checking. Bought unit recently and I know one unit is old and the other is 2018 install. I will do some checking and servicing. Thanks!!

I have 2 AC units that run intermittently. We are in the deep south with 80 degrees on the way and have 2 AC units that decide when they want to work. Can run well together for hours then they switch to fan only mode. When switched on the fans run showing 6 amps draw on Kenwood and about 14 amps when both are cooling with the compressor engaged. Thermostats are set low to 60 degrees, which we never reach. Have to add that I posted earlier that my Leg 2 is off showing that I have limited electrical input, but both units and the dryer have pulled 24 amps and run well in unison on Leg 1. Is there power sharing going on that I need to live with or is there a fix to allow either one or the other or both units to be reset to engage the compressors? Any input would be great. Hanging out in the South until the snow melts in Northern Minnesota so I can get into my yard. Thanks in advance. Your input is always awesome stuff.

I tested. Found the rope Light Switch to be bad. Thanks for the tip. I will have to replace. I think that I found one at the original manufacturer.