Scott Le Magicien

It's a wireless remote.

All the lights = Low Beams, HIgh Beams, and the Fog Lights.

And I really don't like taking my eyes (and more importantly my peripheral vision) off the road to find the correct switch on the side panel... 

So I added my own remote!

The Lights button turns on ALL THE LIGHTS!  

And the Horns button activates the airhorns on the roof.  They're loud, but nice have sometimes!

The remote is a Visonic.  They're not made any more, sadly, but sometimes you can find them on eBay...

For those who want the best...

I got tired of replacing the little limit switches that most of these pumps use to control the pressure.  So we wanted a pump with an electronic pressure sensor.  The ones the big yachts use seems to be Marco Pumps of Italy.  We tried the 6.9gpm but ended up upgrading to their top of the line 12.3gpm.  

Not cheap but you get what you pay for.

https://items.marco.it/us/up14-e-electronic-water-pressure-pump-12-2-gpm.html

The music in that video is hilarious.

On 12/11/2022 at 2:23 AM, Dr4Film said:

Gary, if the wires to the water pump are not showing 12 VDC and the in-line fuse is good then back trace to the Intellitec Water Pump Latching Controller to make sure there is 12 VDC at that relay. If yes, there are also relay(s) involved after that latching relay, at least there are on my previous Windsor. Those have to be working correctly for the voltage to get to the pump. If there is no 12 VDC at the Intellitec Latching Controller, then it may be a fuse located in the house fuse panel that is generally located inside the coach. Possibly in the bedroom, at least that's where it is my Windsor.

Attached is a photo of the latching relay.

 

Hi!  I’ve not seen one of these in our 2002 Diplomat.  Where should I look and what does is do?
Thanks!!

17 hours ago, Nosmo179 said:

Hi there. I had my hydraulic hose fitting near the pump give out. It was the type that gets push in and the collar screwed on to compress the hose and fitting together. And that didn't last long. Luckily I was able to put it back together and limp home with slow and easy turns.

I have a '96 40' Dynasty.

What I did was to replace the hose. Yes, all of it. It is not too difficult to take down all the panels that cover the center "backbone" to the rig. Once open loosening the bands around  all the hoses and wires wasn't too hard. I then had the replacement hose built 4 sections using zero restriction (?) fittings. One hose was about 2'long from pump to next hose which went from that section to next one that went from just outside the backbone (rear fire wall?). The hose running in the backbone went all the way to the front of the back bone leaving just enough  extending out to attach to the last hose that went to the steering box.

When I installed the new hose down the backbone I also included two wires and a strong cord just incase I needed them for future use. I secured the hoses and wires back up leaving the cord free to pull through if needed.

This did take a while but it wasn't too hard when I did it in my late 50's. But I think I could do it now that I'm 70.

Side note for anyone designing rigs like ours - if able, always make hoses in this way - limit amount of hose exposed to weather and allow them to be changed without opening up the backbone. 

Thanks Stephen!
This is a brilliant solution, and it arrived just in time as we want to replace our hydraulic lines after having had one burst this past September.
Can you tell me where the 4th hose was?  I understand having two shorter hoses near the pump and the steering unit, but did you also split the long one in between them as well?  I guess if the split was in a place where you could get to it, it would mean only replacing part of this long hose and not the whole thing, correct?

I’ll have to google “zero restriction fittings” but as I understand the term it means they allow for the same amount of fluid transmission as the hose itself does, correct?

Thanks again!!

Scott

On 10/31/2022 at 2:49 AM, jacwjames said:

Do you know for sure why the first hose failed??? Did the hose fail, did the fitting fail, was the fitting loose.

The hydraulic jack and pump application in an RV is extremely light duty.  The hoses are designed and tested for thousands of cycles.  There is really no movement in the hoses as the pump and jack are stationary and the hoses are routed along a ridged frame.  On my system there is a relief valve in the valve block that can be adjusted to increase pressure and the ability to lift more weight.  My system seemed a little weak so I did increase the pressure a little but it is still withing the capability of the hydraulic hose pressures. 

When you have this fixed I'd request to see the hydraulic hose and fitting.  It is possible the hose was not crimped properly. 

Hi!  Can you give me an idea of how to do this??  Our pump no longer lifts the front end.  Tried another pump, same issue..

Thanks!!