Michel

Hi, Monaco Caymen 2003 with a Level Best system and the control board routinely does not work. I disconnect everything to reset it and sometimes it work, sometimes it don't. Is there someone with a solution? I called Lippert and all they have is a Winnebago touch pad. They also have somethings like a universal pad that is supposed to work with all system but the wires are not the same, mine has two set of wires, two plug, the touch pad proposed by E trailer has only one plug. Is there a wire bundle to connent from my old wires to the new board? Or any other way I can have this old one modified or install direct switch?

Part number for the control board / touch pad is 906900406

On 10/8/2023 at 1:16 AM, Gary Petersen said:

Curiously,  why corrosion appears on side, and not the other?

Plausible, they used incompatible alloy on one side for this application.

Or, it indicates this original surface  was exposed to something outside the neutral PH 4 to 6 range for Aluminum.

 

TPO a bad choice,..difficult to fit on, and secure to the contoured surface and,  also, with ANY moisture , it’s Greased Lightning!

Whatever you were to put in the thin Aluminum holes, you need to be confident that it  has some physics to hold it there. I would feel more confident with something that  goes over, and securely covers the holes.

My two cents for an economical and virtually permanent solution for this DIY project.

 

Start by, CLEANING the painted roof surface with a quick, (but thorough), wipe down with Acetone as a cleaning agent using lots of fresh Clean rags to pick up dust. Acetone’s long term contact, can lift the paint. (also, don’t store the damp dirty, and combustable rags inside ).

 

Now, Clean the exposed Aluminum with 50 / 50 vinegar / distilled water solution to clean and Etch the AL.

Finally, lightly “damp wipe” the Aluminum with just distilled water and let it thoroughly dry.

Now, spot cover Holes with reasonably sized pieces of, Eternabond Tape.

 

Next: Mask off perimeter Non-work areas.

Then, Google RC 2000 and look at Inland Coatings, as they have a two part coating system designed specifically for Metal Roofs.

In this case it is important that the coatings remains slightly flexible, especially over time on a dynamic RV roof system.

 

Check out  RC 2013 as their metal roof primer, which should be "Rolled On” the entire roof surface.

Then, (also rolled on), their Top coat RC 2014,  this step is Required.

 

I have been impressed with the surface adhesion of the RC 2000 products.

YOU, can solve this!

This sounds like a good process, especially that RC 2000 has anticorosion in it. I will check on this, thank you.

2 hours ago, pulsarjab said:

Have you determined what caused the holes?

 

No but it is corroded just like picture of corroded aluminum. Maybe it was already corroded when they installed it, I do know. My old roof had 15 years, not even a trace anywhere but after hail, it was all dented and insurance paid for replacement. I will see if I can get the RV shop to pay for it.

2 hours ago, hex_nut said:

A lot depends on how long you intend to keep the motorhome.  I have done motorhomes with Henry's roll on products for a short term fix (it will last a few years).  For a long term fix, I would also recommend the poly-urea spray on roofing (RV Armor, FlexArmor, etc...).  Roll on roofing is cheap (a few hundred bucks), but with limited warranty.  The spray on poly-urea is much more expensive (about $150 per linear foot), but often has a life time warranty.  I had the front of my coach sprayed with a poly-urea bra color matched to my coach to combat the rock chip problem.  I have been very happy with it.

Richard 

Thank you for your recommendations. I contacted RV Armor or FlexArmor not sure, they start at $195 / linear foot but maybe I could do it myself. As I understand this is only to shoot their stuff on the roof? I was quote about the same price in Canada to replace the complete roof with aluminum sheet warranty for 20 years.

1 hour ago, JDCrow said:

If it were me, I’d putty, prime then go talk the bed liner (Rino, Arma) and get a quote to shoot the whole roof. 

That sounds like a good idea, never though of Rino, I will check on that for sure. I guess they have white stuff.

Hi, I have a Cayman 2003 and I just discovered my roof had hundreds of tiny holes in it, mostly only on one side of the RV. It started with small rust type bubble and when sanded it showed up as holes in the roof. The roof was completely replaced 6 years ago after hail storm. Any suggestion, does not want to spend a fortune on this?

Replace with TPO roof? Repair like a rusted car roof, buff, putty and paint? Ethernabound over all damaged surface?

They want $10,000 to completely replace the roof with an Aluminum roof.

Thank you

I think I will either remove the solenoid, take it out, remove the plunger and it will be open all the time, I could allways put it back on. Or, I will use a Solenoid Magnet like they use to test electrical magnet like this one below. This way I can reuse the electro part if I wantm just reinstall it. I would make it work from time to time to make sure it does not seize inside. I have a manual valve that can be open and closed to service the tank, like replacing the regulator without emptying the tank or to close to fill up the propane tech told me not to play to often with the manual valve as they sometime start to leak and cannot be closed completely. This system is no installed anymore.

https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/gp/product/B009M9UIHU/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&th=1

57 minutes ago, Jon__C said:

I removed mine and installed a manual valve in its place for same reason. Mine was pulling 1 amp or 24 ah per day. 

Thanks, I guess if I revome it I have to screw a plug in place of the solenoid? This is what mine looks like. Cannont unscrew from the tank, it's very pressure in the tank and risk of fire.

6 minutes ago, Jim McGarvie said:

Sorry, maybe I misremembered, or maybe our system is different from yours. If your system is normally closed, obviously it wouldn't work to disconnect it.

Ok thanks, yes looks like there is more than one type of system, this one I have is kind of weird, it always have current on it to keep it open, I mostly boondock and it draws quite a bit of the batteries, near 2 amps per hour.

5 hours ago, Jim McGarvie said:

We dry camp more often than not, and came to the same conclusion early on (we picked up our Knight from the factory in 2001). I believe I just disconnected the solenoid electrically; I didn't physically remove it.

Looks like it will allways be closed if I just disconnect the wires since it is activated open with electrical?

Hi, anyone removed the electrical solenoid valve on their propane tank? It jus draws too much current went off grid camping. Just want to know if someone did cancel it, how did you plug the hole where the solenoid was. The solenoid is not connected to the propane alarm on my Cayman 2003. Thanks.

Hi, I just called Ultra RV product and they say if the number Monaco gave me is the right one that this assembly would fit my motorhome, my number is 6571316 and it woul cross refer to 6570417. Anyone tried it? For the price and no refund, I would like to make sure it fits. I tried a GM one but the pin does not read the same as mine. Thanks.