Coach J
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Posts posted by Coach J
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On 9/13/2022 at 8:03 AM, Scotty Hutto said:
Ditto the low hydraulic fluid comments. Try adding some ATF to the small hydraulic tank (located in the compartment behind the AC condenser, drivers side just behind the drive wheels). Pics below…
I keep a quart of Dextron ATF with the coach just for this reason. One of the seals on one of my jacks leaks just a little, and when the fluid gets low it behaves exactly as you describe. (I know…. I have purchased a new seal kit, just haven’t paused long enough to rebuild the jack)
Give me a call if you have questions.
Pictures for clarity:
Can you tell me if low fluid would cause the jacks to not retract completely? I have one that has a leak from a bad seal that I am taking tomorrow to get fixed but it keeps stopping about 1/4 inch from fully retracted and so the jacks Down light won’t go off
monaco diplomat 2007 40 skq
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1 minute ago, Duffer51 said:
The LVT I choose was 7mm thickness which matched up the thickness as the old tile so had no issues with the slide outs. One thing I did was to add trim to the bottom of the cabinets etc where tile was. I milled the trim to match what was already on the coach. Took a piece of the old trim to Sherwin Williams and they color matched the finish perfectly, can't tell the new from the old.
Gotcha. Thank you. I have been looking at 7mm also. There is no tile for me to measure so I was looking for the thinnest I could find.
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10 minutes ago, Duffer51 said:
Just completed removing most of the original flooring in 2004 Dynasty and replacing with LVT from Floor and Decor. The removal of the tile was a big task than I thought it would be. Monaco used an adhesive that was a bear to remove. Lots of dust! Having said that I'm pleased with the way it turned out. Took a good two weeks start to finish. Also redid the entry steps. This LVT is hard stuff and should wear well - dulled two saw blades cutting it.
Please tell me if you had any issues with slide outs not coming in and out properly. I want to champagne mine out in a 2007 diplomat that has already had the tile removed. Now has vinyl. Want to do wood laminate and worried about slide outs. Thank you
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23 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:
Yep!
I had 3 of 4 leaking past the seals on a previous coach!
Is that a huge job for someone and huge expense?
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On 9/22/2023 at 10:43 PM, Tom Cherry said:
Hard to argue with what you know and suspect. BUT, the mystery is still a little murky. The Diplomat has been, per so many folks….who owned either the Endeavor or the Diplomat…twins. Pull the sales brochures for each. Identical….same copy all the way through. Dash and instruments same. Read the pages describing the various areas as well as the options. So, “for our purposes” when we try to help folks….the prints are the same….everything is identical.
OK…being a skeptic….pulled both owner’s manuals. Diplomat says ATF. “Jim told me…ATF”. LOL. But, pull the Endeavor manual. Yes…right in the copy…15W40 motor oil. NOW…a plausible explanation….and we have very few “oldsters that went to every show and knew every feature…
It would be interesting to see if your Endeavor was an ELKHART coach. The Diplomat was an Oregon coach. There are subtle differences….we have seen where a particular item, like how a water pump circuit was different.
SO…if your coach was Elkhart….then that MIGHT explain it. I don’t know if you are aware of the warranty issues that lead to the conversion from AW46 to ATF. The AW46 has unique sub zero viscosity characteristics. It “expands” when it freezes. There are many articles and technical papers on failures when used on Arctic and Antarctic expeditions. We have had many members that had a failure, usually in the plumbing at the rear oil cooler. The AW46 fails…expands….and then bulges or cracks components. Thus, the conversion to ATF.
Pure supposition….but there were 3 factories closed in the fall of 2008 in Elkhart. 1,400 folks were RIF’ed….but they did keep a “chassis” operation there.
SO….my take. Elkhart used motor oil….while Coburg switched to ATF. The “TWINS” manuals are different. So, we all learn. If it walks like, quacks like, looks like….then it is a ….LOL.
I have read just about every post and email on the old Yahoo site and most here, except for a 9 month period recovering from a broken leg. i have seen the debate. The “white paper towel” test, told to us my Monaco Tech Support was to let a few drops land on the paper towel. Instant identification. NOW, we know that there was ANOTHER oil used….how many models? Would have to read the HR manuals….and check the service recommendations. The same Nelson housing and filters were used…but Coburg used AW46 and ATF. Your rig says 15-W40 or “motor oil”.
Now we know….always learning….and what we think we know, Monaco undercut and was never consistent….on that you can depend.
Good luck…service it. Drain the reservoid (pump it out)…replenish and then forget doing that for several years…
Trying to get some insight into fluid leaking down the pole on one of my hydraulic leveling jacks. 2007 Monaco diplomat.
there is fluid leaking down the silver pole and pooling on the base. Is it possible it is a seal going bad?
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5 minutes ago, Joe Lee said:
Hello All!
I have been using this topic to help me diagnose my A/C problem. Thanks to all for documenting this so well!
My issue is with my rear Dometic Penguin (2002). The unit is ‘short cycling’. I have been using the attached Troubleshooting Guide and discovered what I believe is a missing Remote Temperature Sensor. It is WHITE as shown in the Guide. When I traced the wire from the control board to the sensor, I discovered that the sensor was missing. See Picture.
It would appear someone in the past removed this sensor on purpose. The 5 button thermostat control is located in the bedroom.
Would anyone know if this sensor is required? Seems like it!
Could this missing sensor cause the ‘short cycling’ problem?My front A/C unit has this sensor and it is working properly.
Thanks for your thoughts!
My issue was the remote sensor in my front AC and the tech removed it and mine has had in issues since. So I don’t know. Seems like my fox was opposite of what you are saying. Unplugging mine sent the control the the main thermostat and now it works.
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14 hours ago, Ray Davis said:
Laughing........ Coach J, I think you probably meant to give credit for the solution to Scotty, not to yourself. 👍
MODERATOR NOTE….It was fixed…Scotty now has the GOLD STAR…..
quote
Solved by Coach J, Tuesday at 07:20 AMYes sir I did
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On 6/28/2023 at 9:12 AM, Scotty Hutto said:
The leakage I referred to was simply the coil cleaner dripping from the coils. That should clear up in a couple of hours at most. Our Diplomats don’t have drain lines, so the condensate (drip) pans drain directly onto the roof. If the foam gasket between the roof and the AC unit is compromised, if can allow condensate to drain back into the AC opening. The gasket is not very expensive, but replacing it requires removing the four bolts that hold it down and disconnecting any power and control wires that run through the opening. Shut the AC power off before attempting this! Here’s a decent video explaining it; there are others that go into more detail. The Steele Rubber gaskets he suggests are good, or you can buy the OEM Dometic gaskets if that’s your issue. I can’t vouch for any other brands. Hope this helps!
Good morning all….
cleaned the coils a few days ago and everything has been good and then wake up who’s morning and the cooks are iced again some.
conventional thought would be need to clean a little more? They were pretty bad when I did Them the first time and I have not been back up to check again.
I do have a question….could running the AC at maybe too low a temperature be a part of this scenario?
thoughts?
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1 minute ago, Scotty Hutto said:
The leakage I referred to was simply the coil cleaner dripping from the coils. That should clear up in a couple of hours at most. Our Diplomats don’t have drain lines, so the condensate (drip) pans drain directly onto the roof. If the foam gasket between the roof and the AC unit is compromised, if can allow condensate to drain back into the AC opening. The gasket is not very expensive, but replacing it requires removing the four bolts that hold it down and disconnecting any power and control wires that run through the opening. Shut the AC power off before attempting this! Here’s a decent video explaining it; there are others that go into more detail. The Steele Rubber gaskets he suggests are good, or you can buy the OEM Dometic gaskets if that’s your issue. Hope this helps!
Ok so this is a different deal then.
I didn’t exactly mean drain lines I just meant it is draining properly outside from the drain pan. The dripping seems to be coming straight down from the drain pan not from around the seal. Trust me I had that happen once and it ruined my ceiling because I didn’t get it changed in time. So no thought that the filter could be the cause from lack of air flow?
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On 6/26/2023 at 8:29 AM, Scotty Hutto said:
The two most common reasons for coils freezing are low refrigerant and dirty evaporator coils. As this is a closed system and freon leaks would disable the system, I would suggest the most likely reason is dirty coils. Since this is *likely* a heat pump, both indoor and outdoor coils need to be cleaned. I vacuum the coils, then use coil cleaner spray. Put plastic and towels on the bed / floor / whatever inside the coach under the units. Although most of the coil cleaning is done from the roof, it WILL leak through to the inside.
Here is the coil cleaner I used last time. You can find it (or a comparable alternative) at a local hardware store, or get it on Amazon.
Can you please tell me if the inside leakage you discussed should last for a day or so? All of a sudden I am getting a pretty good bit of water dripping into the Rv from the ac unit. The drain pan is empty so i is not a full drain pan. I cannot really tell where it’s coming from and I did the cleaning 2 days ago. Just your thoughts. Thank you
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22 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:
The two most common reasons for coils freezing are low refrigerant and dirty evaporator coils. As this is a closed system and freon leaks would disable the system, I would suggest the most likely reason is dirty coils. Since this is *likely* a heat pump, both indoor and outdoor coils need to be cleaned. I vacuum the coils, then use coil cleaner spray. Put plastic and towels on the bed / floor / whatever inside the coach under the units. Although most of the coil cleaning is done from the roof, it WILL leak through to the inside.
Here is the coil cleaner I used last time. You can find it (or a comparable alternative) at a local hardware store, or get it on Amazon.
Bought the cleaner you suggested, and clean all of the coils. Seems as if it has for the time being solve the problem. They probably need it again but thank you.
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4 minutes ago, DavidL said:
Do the obvious stuff first...if the coils are dirty, clean them.
Will do. Thank you
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5 minutes ago, DavidL said:
If there was a freon leak, then the freon is gone and the system wouldn't work at all (won't freeze).
So most likely just needs to be serviced ?
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Just looking for info on a Dometic ac freezing up some. A looks like it may be dirty coils. Will clean those today. Looking for info on possibility of a Freon leak. Could that be my issue which is much bigger it appears. Thank you
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7 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
You ain't got no communication. I assumed you knew that. You can't get it to RESET...as the Thermostat has NOTHING to talk to. SO....unless you think you have a thermostat issue...which I don't and there is NOT much good that come come from taking apart a working (it was) thermostat when the issue is COMMUNICATIONS.
The troubleshooting is what I went over. Something happened, most LIKELY, when you were cleaning....now you have to figure out what got "undone" and fix it.
The steps are what folks really ought to do every few years. We USUALLY have these issues when the summer season starts and folks say... OMG...I have NO AC... OR (my personal one)....it was working FINE when we left and worked great until I shut off the engine at the CG office...then it was DEAD when I plugged in and started it up. My DW and GD were most distraught as it was in the open sun and 95 deg in humid Charleston SC. Took about 10 minutes to clean all the connectors and do the reset.
You have NO communication with the FRONT Control Module. SO, fix it. IF you can't, then do like I suggested and bypass the front and then work on the rear....
Let us know....
Yes sir. Now have some 1 back and no zone 2. Obviously a communication error between AC 1 and AC 2. I have cleaned everything there is to clean. Still nothing after the reset. I will keep trying.
on another note….is there any way to bypass the “communication lines” and install some way to not have to rely on these unreliable lines for the AC to function. I am assuming the answer is no but I thought you would be who to ask. My old gas burner Fleetwood didn’t work that way so I never had any AC issues.
thanks
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55 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
From the basics.
First, the thermostats get their 12 VDC power from each of the AC units. There is a control module in each one. The 13.5K have the control module in the plenum (under the filter grill). The 15K units have the control module under the cover of the AC....you have to pull the cover of. The control modules have the DIP switches on them. These are the wires to the module. And the Module, I THINK plugs into the rooftop unit. Been a while.
AC power (piece of Romex with Black, White and Bare Ground.
12 VDC power. Open the print attached. Go to Page 16. Red is POSITIVE. Black is GROUND. You NEED to have 12 VDC on them. That is the pigtail or plug marked as P6.
A plug in phone cable. This will be for any remote sensor that is being used. NO REMOTE SENSOR....no phone line. That is P6
TWO WIRES....The INFAMOUS BLUE wires. These are the wires going TO the furnace. They have NOTHING to do with your issues....but if they are NOT hooked up....you do NOT have any heat...
There are also TWO phone lines attached. They don't care which one. P1 and P2. One brings the signal up and the other takes it out.
The Thermostat is on a phone line from the wall (or wherever) to the front unit. It plugs into a connector. The other side of the connector goes up or into the control module (P1 or P2 phone cable). The OTHER phone connector sends the signal back down. When it gets into the plenum, it connects to a phone line that runs to the rear. In the rear the phone line plugs into a connector and it goes up. There is a phone line coming down. It just dangles there as there is nothing else to send a signal to.
ALL the inline connectors and the phone plugs (Male ends) of the phone lines are a constant problem. They CAN (and DO) vibrate loose as well as corrode or have a bad connection. TYPICALLY, the connections are LOST in the dangling connectors....as they swing and vibrate. BUT, you can have a BAC connection on the control module. NOT knowing what you moved around or did...you COULD have inadvertently pulled or tugged on one of the two shore phone cables. They MUST be seated and making connection inside the control module....otherwise...NO JOY. 90% (and I have helped at least 50 folks) of the time....the issue is inside....as the cables are not seated or corroded. SOMETMES the RJ-11 (Male Ends) get messed up and folks use a phone crimping tool and install a new male end. Simple....
The USUSAL fix.... FROM THE INSIDE. Take apart one of the phone connections. CLEAN (alcohol and a Q-tip or a paper towel and a toothpick or an old tooth brush) the male ends. Clean the female contacts inside the connector. DO ONE AT A TIME. It HELPS to plug and unplug the cables a few (3 or 4) times and press firmly so there is a good connection. It is FUTILE to do ONE...and quit. You have THREE to do....2 in the front and 1 in the rear.
NOW....turn OFF the Thermostat. Hold in the Zone and Mode Button. Then turn the thermostat ON. FF (not EE) is what you should get. Then you should have all zones. If you only have Zone 1....then you know there is a problem with the cable going to the rear or in the rear. The thermostat has GOT to read each control module.
IN THEORY....only ONE of the Control Modules needs voltage. BUT, since the connections can drop out, Monaco ran 12 VDC to each control module. SO, that unit, if the phone line was broken, would actually send Voltage to the OTHER control Module as well as the Thermostat.
There is NO POWER wire going to the Thermostat. The ONLY power comes from the phone cord. 1 pair has voltage and the other pair runs the systems.
If that doesn't work....THEN....next step.
Check EACH control Module for voltage. Open the print below. Go to Page 16. IF you don't have 12 VDC, then there is a blown fuse in the House Distribution box. See your manual. Monaco does NOT always tell you WHICH fuse is for the Thermostat. Mine says "Satellite".
Rarely do we see an issue in the control module. These are tough suckers.
IF you think that you might have "messed around", then you MIGHT want to go back up and pull the shroud or cover. THEN look at the last page and unplug every connector (wires and phone) and reseat them so they are making contact.
That is about it. When you run through the above....let us know....unless something was broken.....it is a connection issue. NOW...in THEORY....you can actually find the two lines running UP in the front unit. If you unplug them....let them dangle. THEN plug in the other TWO phone lines. That will bypass the FRONT AC and the thermostat will be connected directly to the REAR. DO the reset. Then you will only see Zone 2....and it should be OK.
Remember....anytime you disconnect any of the phone lines or make any programming changes (the DIP switches) or SUCH...you have to do the RESET OR REBOOT. The Thermostat "reads" what is downstream and then "KNOWS" what to do. BUT, if there is a break or an open phone connection or a crappy one....it gets mad and will not work or only works intermittently...
Good Luck...
Now no zone 1 or 2 just EE. Lol
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37 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
From the basics.
First, the thermostats get their 12 VDC power from each of the AC units. There is a control module in each one. The 13.5K have the control module in the plenum (under the filter grill). The 15K units have the control module under the cover of the AC....you have to pull the cover of. The control modules have the DIP switches on them. These are the wires to the module. And the Module, I THINK plugs into the rooftop unit. Been a while.
AC power (piece of Romex with Black, White and Bare Ground.
12 VDC power. Open the print attached. Go to Page 16. Red is POSITIVE. Black is GROUND. You NEED to have 12 VDC on them. That is the pigtail or plug marked as P6.
A plug in phone cable. This will be for any remote sensor that is being used. NO REMOTE SENSOR....no phone line. That is P6
TWO WIRES....The INFAMOUS BLUE wires. These are the wires going TO the furnace. They have NOTHING to do with your issues....but if they are NOT hooked up....you do NOT have any heat...
There are also TWO phone lines attached. They don't care which one. P1 and P2. One brings the signal up and the other takes it out.
The Thermostat is on a phone line from the wall (or wherever) to the front unit. It plugs into a connector. The other side of the connector goes up or into the control module (P1 or P2 phone cable). The OTHER phone connector sends the signal back down. When it gets into the plenum, it connects to a phone line that runs to the rear. In the rear the phone line plugs into a connector and it goes up. There is a phone line coming down. It just dangles there as there is nothing else to send a signal to.
ALL the inline connectors and the phone plugs (Male ends) of the phone lines are a constant problem. They CAN (and DO) vibrate loose as well as corrode or have a bad connection. TYPICALLY, the connections are LOST in the dangling connectors....as they swing and vibrate. BUT, you can have a BAC connection on the control module. NOT knowing what you moved around or did...you COULD have inadvertently pulled or tugged on one of the two shore phone cables. They MUST be seated and making connection inside the control module....otherwise...NO JOY. 90% (and I have helped at least 50 folks) of the time....the issue is inside....as the cables are not seated or corroded. SOMETMES the RJ-11 (Male Ends) get messed up and folks use a phone crimping tool and install a new male end. Simple....
The USUSAL fix.... FROM THE INSIDE. Take apart one of the phone connections. CLEAN (alcohol and a Q-tip or a paper towel and a toothpick or an old tooth brush) the male ends. Clean the female contacts inside the connector. DO ONE AT A TIME. It HELPS to plug and unplug the cables a few (3 or 4) times and press firmly so there is a good connection. It is FUTILE to do ONE...and quit. You have THREE to do....2 in the front and 1 in the rear.
NOW....turn OFF the Thermostat. Hold in the Zone and Mode Button. Then turn the thermostat ON. FF (not EE) is what you should get. Then you should have all zones. If you only have Zone 1....then you know there is a problem with the cable going to the rear or in the rear. The thermostat has GOT to read each control module.
IN THEORY....only ONE of the Control Modules needs voltage. BUT, since the connections can drop out, Monaco ran 12 VDC to each control module. SO, that unit, if the phone line was broken, would actually send Voltage to the OTHER control Module as well as the Thermostat.
There is NO POWER wire going to the Thermostat. The ONLY power comes from the phone cord. 1 pair has voltage and the other pair runs the systems.
If that doesn't work....THEN....next step.
Check EACH control Module for voltage. Open the print below. Go to Page 16. IF you don't have 12 VDC, then there is a blown fuse in the House Distribution box. See your manual. Monaco does NOT always tell you WHICH fuse is for the Thermostat. Mine says "Satellite".
Rarely do we see an issue in the control module. These are tough suckers.
IF you think that you might have "messed around", then you MIGHT want to go back up and pull the shroud or cover. THEN look at the last page and unplug every connector (wires and phone) and reseat them so they are making contact.
That is about it. When you run through the above....let us know....unless something was broken.....it is a connection issue. NOW...in THEORY....you can actually find the two lines running UP in the front unit. If you unplug them....let them dangle. THEN plug in the other TWO phone lines. That will bypass the FRONT AC and the thermostat will be connected directly to the REAR. DO the reset. Then you will only see Zone 2....and it should be OK.
Remember....anytime you disconnect any of the phone lines or make any programming changes (the DIP switches) or SUCH...you have to do the RESET OR REBOOT. The Thermostat "reads" what is downstream and then "KNOWS" what to do. BUT, if there is a break or an open phone connection or a crappy one....it gets mad and will not work or only works intermittently...
Good Luck...
Ok I have 1 zone now. Zone 2 is gone but at least there is power to the thermostat and zone 1 is working. Not sure why I lost zone 2
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It’s me again…..now I have absolutely nothing on the thermostat. It was running and I was on top of the coach cleaning some of the dirt and trash from under the lord trying to clean the coils some hoping that would help the front AC. First it lost the back AC from the thermostat then after trying to reset it and getting an EE signal now the thermostat is completely blank.
any help would be great as usual.
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Ok. Not sure what is going on but we will see.
I ran the front AC all day yesterday after moving the air vent off the remote sensor and covering it up with the window curtains. AC has run all the time and had the temperature down to 65 and never shut off. Will monitor and get back with this group as it moves forward. Didn’t want to jump too deep into doing things that may be over my head.
as always thank you for all the input and help.
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8 hours ago, Gary Cole said:
If you have a 22 degree temp differential you don't have compressor problems when it is running. Which rules out a low charge or a worn compressor. Could still have a winding problem causing overheat though unlikely with the symptoms you describe. You can jump the contactor from inside bypassing all control circuits but the high temp limit on the compressor to check the condensing unit.
I do have anywhere from 20-23 degrees difference when running. Only issues seem to be when the outside heat gets up high.
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18 minutes ago, klcdenver said:
Tom not to bust your chops but the 2007 Diplomat does have 2 temp sensors. The front one is right behind the passenger window just like the picture he posted.
I would go up top and remove the shroud and wash out the coils with a water hose. Also check the inside of the shroud to make sure it has foam pressing against the top of the coils to separate intake and discharge air. Sounds like it is getting hot and the over temp switch is shutting it down. You might also do a hard reset on the 5 button thermostat control.
You should also check the coils to see if it is freezing up. When it shuts down remove the inside white box from the ceiling and see if those coils are froze over. There is also a thermostat with a brown wire on it and it should be stuck in those coils also. They are notorious for falling out.
I will start to look into those things tomorrow. Would your assumption that it may be overheating be worse when outside temps are higher? I am assuming yes.
22 minutes ago, klcdenver said:Tom not to bust your chops but the 2007 Diplomat does have 2 temp sensors. The front one is right behind the passenger window just like the picture he posted.
I would go up top and remove the shroud and wash out the coils with a water hose. Also check the inside of the shroud to make sure it has foam pressing against the top of the coils to separate intake and discharge air. Sounds like it is getting hot and the over temp switch is shutting it down. You might also do a hard reset on the 5 button thermostat control.
You should also check the coils to see if it is freezing up. When it shuts down remove the inside white box from the ceiling and see if those coils are froze over. There is also a thermostat with a brown wire on it and it should be stuck in those coils also. They are notorious for falling out.
Upon initial inspection from just opening up the inside cover there is a decent amount of dust build up. I had the outside unit serviced aboit 3 months ago but the coils and most of the unit was fairly clean at that time. I will go back up and inspect tomorrow.
mind if I keep in contact
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35 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
Most of the HVAC systems use the thermostat as the sensor. You have a wall sensor (brown cage) in the rear. Only, typically, does the front zone have a remote sensor.
Please post a picture of your thermostat and what you are calling the front sensor
Thanks
18 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:Per the manual, page 95, there is no front temp sensor. The 5 button thermostat has the built in temp sensor and controls all zone 1 or front HVAC systems. There is a picture of a remote temp sensor, but it is for the rear or zone 2.
i do not believe, unless the OEM system was replaced with a different system that there is a front sensor….but one never knows.
Really need verification and pictures before going down that trouble shooting path…
If the front unit is not running, then there may be a mechanical issue. The fact that he has good communication with the rear or zone 2 says no probable issues with the thermostat or communication.
Based on the age and many posts recently….odds are motor or compressor or “control issues” in the front. My experience is that it takes a day or two from the “walls” to equalize…..but eventually, the interior walls will come close to the set point of the thermostat. I have a surface mounted sensor above the thermostat…..it is within, on normal days, a degree of the set point.
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The pictures are the front sensor. There is one in the back also. The outside temperature has cooled down a few degrees and it seems to be working correctly for the time being
4 minutes ago, MrAmbassador said:Agree with the above, low on Freon and shutting down on low evaporator temp (sensor) or front ambient temperature sensor is faulty or air vent blowing on it. Do you have a Dometic 10 button thermostat, if so you can check the inside temperatures in zone 1 and 2. If you are low on Freon you would need to check your running amps to check the load (you will need an amp hook/claw/ring).
No a 5 button system.
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3 minutes ago, FishAR said:
Check where the temp sensor is for your front ac and make sure a duct isn't blowing directly on it. If it is re-aim the duct away from the sensor.
Weird enough you say that. The sensor is near the front door. Every time I open the door the AC unit turns off
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Just now, Ivylog said:
Try using 68 instead of 70.
I have tried 68,65,60 etc
Jacks Down alarm fires randomly
in Engine, Transmission, Engine Cooling, & Hydraulics
Posted
No it’s up now. Was low in fluid