Coach J

I have a Dometic rooftop ac/heat pump that will not stay running long enough to reach the desired temperature. It seems to be worse when temperatures outside are higher but that could be a pure coincidence 

example:  I set the thermostat to 70 and it is 75 in the coach and the AC turns off. Not just the compressor but the entire unit. Back AC runs like a champ but front one has been having this issue for a while I think. When the compressor comes on it is blowing at about 22 degrees colder than intake temp but it just won’t stay running. 
 

any ideas???

thank you 

2 hours ago, klcdenver said:

It kinda sounds like it is overheating. Clean your filter and make sure no obstructions on return air. Take shroud off up top and make sure coils or not plugged up with dirt and leaves.

As a matter of fact I went and checked and since the temperatures have cooled down it is working exactly like it should. It worked last night like it should. Seems the only issues are in the heat of the day so maybe it is overheating. 

2 hours ago, klcdenver said:

It kinda sounds like it is overheating. Clean your filter and make sure no obstructions on return air. Take shroud off up top and make sure coils or not plugged up with dirt and leaves.

It will run like a champ on high so would you still think it’s possibly overheating?  I did not have ladder access this weekend but i will get up top tomorrow and see. It just hs me stumped because the back ac runs just fine. 

On 2/24/2023 at 2:43 PM, klcdenver said:

I am going to summarize what I did to rectify and get things to work on my 2007 Monaco Diplomat 40SKQ. This is not going to apply to models above a Diplomat as best I can tell. The Diplomat does not have aqua heat and some of the fancy things. It only has 2 Penguin II's originally both being 13,500 BTU. If you have upgraded to 15000 BTU your control boards are located inside the unit on the roof. The 13,500 BTU units control boards are located in the plenum between the roof unit and the air diverter box. The communication system to operate the 5 Button Control (standard on Diplomat) for the HVAC system is 12 Volts, AC power has nothing to do with it. Note I can only assure this works with how it is wired thru the front or #1 unit. I removed the front unit (13,500 BTU) to install the Houghton 3800 in it's place. I had to leave the control box in the plenum with only the 12 volt connector hooked to it an P1 &  P2 RJ11 (telephone Jacks). P4 needs to stay which is the temp sensor for the inside for zone 1. I have verified everything worked as before except the Houghton is a stand alone system with it's own remote control. If you want the number 1 furnace to work you will have to select it on the 5 button control board and set your required temperature in Zone 1. The Houghton does not interface with any dometic equipment. I cannot tell you anything about adding a new thermostat or connecting into the 2 blue wires etc... as talked about in other post.  I have my HVAC system working without adding or rewiring anything.

Good luck if you are doing the same thing and feel free to contact me if I can help or assist you. Thanks to Tom for helping me understand some of this better also. I did contact Dometic originally for help and they would not even give me the time of day. The Houghton is much quieter inside and outside. Parts are also available for them where they are not for dometic. Will follow up with decibel readouts when I get everything tidied up.

Kenneth Cox

402-319-3445 or klcdenver@gmail.com

 

I have the exact same coach and all of a sudden my front zone 1 ac unit will not run long enough on auto to cool down near the desired temperature. Compressor and fan both come on and then cut off long before reaching desired temp. It seems to actually get to the desired temp at night when it’s cool but no where close during the warm part of the day. The zone 2 ac runs just fine and keeps the temp in the back where it is supposed to. My normal tech is coming out Friday and seems to think it’s a control board issue. Any thoughts. 

Ok. It seems like I have a lot of questions but it’s all small things. 
 

I have a dual thermostat that runs 2 ACs. The back AC seems to run just fine with no issues. We have been on a trip since Thursday and Thursday-Friday we had no issues. No issues while technician was working on Rv most of the day Friday. When we packed up to come home we started noticing the front AC was not cooling properly on auto. Would not run or would come on and run for aboit 5 minutes then shut down. It would do this from time to time. 
 

last night and this morning it seemed to do just fine. Compressor would run and it would cycle to keep temp down to where we had it set. I set both AC at the same temperature just to see if they would cycle on and off about the same and they did for the most part 

as the day has gone on and the temperature has risen some. The back ac seems to be fine but the front ac now won’t stay on long enough to cool down to desired temp. I spoke to my normal mobile rv technician who I use for lost everything and he seems to think it’s a control board issue. I cannot get a definitive answer on the web for my exact issue. Most tall about single control issues. 
 

I am assuming if it were a thermostat issue it would be an issue with both ACs. Is my technician on the right track and if not any other thoughts. I have nO diagnostic tools with me and he is scheduled to come see me this week. I am just looking for some info because I trust this group. 
 

thanks

Dometic AC 

56 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

This is what our GFI breakers look like, for reference, they control certain outlets that need protection and never gave me any problems.

Yep. Mine does not have that 

31 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Maybe you have GFCI breakers in your breaker box. I don't have any GFCI outlets either.

I thought maybe that too but there are none. I am sure I have missed something but I will keep looking to see what I can find 

13 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

The way it works.  You have a 30 amp breaker in the main panel.  It powers the inverter.  When you are on shore or generator, the power from the 30 A goes to the inverter.  There is a 30 pin breaker on the inverter for incoming power.  Then there is an Automatic Transfer Switch inside.  As long as the inverter is hooked up to a good battery, the ATS allows the shore/generator power to go to 2 pin breakers.  Then one line goes to the microwave and the other to the GFCI.  

Your Owners manual has a complete section on the house electrical system.  Please read it.  Page 164 details the GFCI.  It is usually in the hallway right under the edge of the countertop where the sink it.

Always use an Eaton Wiring Devices or Hubbell or Leviton.  The others are not rated or suitable for the inverter.  
Past that, if you are uncomfortable with circuit testing and electrical repairs, get a good tech.  Otherwise, you could have an electrical failure and possibly electrical shock or a fire.

Last night I took a chance and pushed in the 2-20 amp pins. They did not stay in but it did reset the outlets I am assuming. I say that because that’s all I did and they started working. People asking about my gfci and me not understanding how they work , I am saying that there is no outlet in my coach that had a typical gfci plug. We have searched everywhere and have tried to find it in the owners manual with no luck. The outlet outside by the fridge doesn’t even have one and there isn’t one anywhere in the kitchen or bathroom where I would expected it to be. 
 

I guess I have no idea if pushing those pins fixed the outlets but that is all I did. I don’t know why they would not stay in like the 30 is but maybe you can shed light on that.  
 

I also have a concern that my house batteries may be draining while I drive and not charging but I don’t know that for certain. I had AC issues that seem to have been corrected somehow as well so I am just in a guessing mode. 
 

thank you as always for your input. Would be lost without this forum 

11 hours ago, TomV48 said:

I'm not sure I have ever seen anyone say this, as we always assume everyone knows that the most common GFCI's have visible buttons in the middle of an outlet, between the two plug sockets.       

I guess I offer that as, for instance, in our home the GFCI button is on an actual breaker in our main breaker panel and not an obvious button on the bathroom or kitchen outlet as is common.

I guess for those who cannot find an actual GFCI outlet, either in the kitchen or bathroom or maybe on an outdoor outlet, YOU COULD CHECK IN THE BREAKER BOX FOR A BUTTON.

My point is there IS NO OULET in my coach that has a normal gfci. I am well aware of them and how they work and how to replace them. My point is there isn’t one. 

18 minutes ago, Wrayj1 said:

Are you sure you don't have a GFCI somewhere?  On our 2007 Holiday Rambler it's near the floor near a cabinet that leads into the hallway.

I will look closer. My wife and I both looked and could not find one 

2 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Pin breakers on the side of the inverter is where I’d start.

There are 3 there 

a 50 and 2-20’s

the 2-20’s seem to be tripped but when I push them in they done stay. 

Moderator EDIT.  The comments for this topic were, in some cases, mistakenly listed or posted as New Topics. They are being merged and condensed to maintain continuity and also prevent the forum topic list to be overwhelmed END OF EDIT.

I am plugged to shore power and EVERYTHING in the coach works except the outlets. 
 

AC, lights, fridge, microwave, etc all work fine. Had an issue with the outlet in the bathroom this morning and it shut my generator down completely when it sparked. But after that I believe my outlets worked but I didn’t realize they were ALL out until we parked and hooked to shore power. They may have been running on generator I just didn’t check. 
 

there is no gfi outlet anywhere that I can find and I cannot find a tripped breaker. 
 

please help 
 

2007 Monaco diplomat

I was just wondering if anyone could tell me how big of a job it is to repair floor damage from water. I know that is a very broad question but I’m just looking to decide if it’s a job I want to tackle or not. It seems to be a fairly small area just under a window but the wall is also soft. Unfortunately we bought the Rv and missed the floor issue. They had premier vinyl out down by the Rv dealer prior to their purchase and I cannot believe they put the vinyl over the damaged area but the people we purchased from only hs the rv a year so I double the damage is from that time. You never know with rv dealers. My concern is I am assuming it will ruin the flooring when I have to pull up the vinyl to repair the damaged area. Just looking for some thoughts befire I begin to decide what to do moving forward. 
 I have an appointment at Talin rv for another repair and think I am going to ask them for their opinion also  

2007 Monaco diplomat. 

1 hour ago, 1nolaguy said:

Mine was close like yours. I could not give you an accurate estimate of cost but it is just an adjustment of one slide it is about 1-2 hours labor. We had 3 slides adjusted, slide seals replaced and toppers replaced. I had originally planned to tackle as a DIY but after I saw all that was involved, especially with changing the seals, I am glad I had the work done by professionals. I do recommend Talin RV. The pricing was fare and the work professional. Had it done last winter when in Florida for the Gathering. The whole project took several days and they have a secured yard with 50 amp hook ups so we could stay in the rig while the work was done.

That is a great response. Thank you and I will talk to them about it. 

7 hours ago, 1nolaguy said:

Had a similar issue with flush floor slide on our 2005 Safari Cheetah, Required slide adjustment (positioning in opening) to fix, Had that done at Talin RV in Fl when I also had the slide seals replaced.

 

Any idea what the cost of that repair may be and how in depth the process is?  
 

Also was your slide very far from closing or really close like mine?

thanks 

12 hours ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Is it the flat floor slide or the other slide?

Gary 05 AMB DST

The flat 

6 hours ago, 1nolaguy said:

Had a similar issue with flush floor slide on our 2005 Safari Cheetah, Required slide adjustment (positioning in opening) to fix, Had that done at Talin RV in Fl when I also had the slide seals replaced.

 

I have an appointment for slide toppers with them. May ask if they could check that while I am there. 

My flush slide when it’s in is about 1/4 of an inch from being completely closed futch in the upper right hand corner.  It seems like it is a little further in at the bottom making the top not seal completely. The top left is flush but the top right is far enough out I can barely fit my finger in the open area. Any ideas?
 

2007 Monaco diplomat 40skq

3 minutes ago, CAT Stephen said:

Can you elaborate on what application and use case that you want to utilize the RJ11 connectors for?  It sounds like HVAC, so if that is the case, you will also need to specify the brand and model of your rooftop air conditioners.

Dometic. Will have to check model. Yes communication cables for duo therm Tstat 

I know the connectors are reversed so to speak. When changing out the ends can someone clarify what I need to do as far as ensuring that I change these ends correctly?  I have searched for a video but no luck. I am making an assumption that if I am careful when changing them and install the new connector in the same direction too As the old oneI should be correct. Just looking for clarification

2007 diplomat 40SKQ 

Anyone have a resource for things like the food out table that comes in the 2007 diplomat 40SKQ?  Mine is missing when I purchased

also any chance to buy the sink covers for the kitchen sinks. They were missing as well. 
 

thanks 

14 minutes ago, Paul Busch said:

When my slides come in they tip a little. Then the slides are closed they have about 1 1/2” jump but when open with the transition piece there is about 1/4”. I looked at a lot of new coaches and they were putting carpet on the slides to jump over the drop.maybe people have luck with wood but as a retired builder for 45 years I wouldn’t put wood in my coach. All the box stores have some good quality vinyl plank and like I said you can build up the middle to make it work.

The good planks will have a good lock and go together with a rubber block and you will be able to plane the lock off with a little hand plane and use Elemers wood glue to fix in place. The only trouble with good locking is when you get to a wall and no room to lock in place. Cheap stuff will un lock if you pad it up to much. You won’t have any trouble. There is lots of help on this site.

Ok. I think I am going to give it a shot. Thank you 

4 minutes ago, Paul Busch said:

I did my sig 3years ago. Use a good quality plank and it goes pretty good. I ran the width of the coach and padded the center up to meet slides without big jump. Lined up the planks nicely. I hade stone at entrance and through kitchen that I squared up lacking flexible matching trim. That was the hardest. The bedroom was as much work as the entry, kitchen and living room.

good luck

paulb

So no issues with the slide outs not having enough clearance to go over the flooring?

40 minutes ago, Bootlegger 659 said:

Huge undertaking... let me clarify,  putting the flooring down is the easy part. Preparing the subfloor was my challenge.  I removed my tile and carpet. Also I found two areas with severe water damage. After everything was repaired new subfloor down it went pretty smooth.  I'm 64 I wont do it again!!

 

Ok. So my floor was fixed and new vinyl put down less than a year ago with the previous owners. So there is no prep for me just to lay the floor.  An you tell me if you did anything to measure and ensure there would be no slide out issues with the new floor. 

38 minutes ago, Bootlegger 659 said:

I just finished reflooring my 05 Diplomat 38pdq. I used vinyl plank. Turned out beautiful. But... it was a huge undertaking, lots of research on materials. Ernie and Brent Ekberg were great resource and inspiration. It will test your skills. Good luck. Have any questions pm me.

Meaning a huge undertaking?  Was that because of having to adjust slides, remove carpet or tile, etc?  I ask because mine has already had all carpet and tile removed. It would be a simple lay down over nothing but vinyl. Just wondering what challenges you had 

1 minute ago, Dr4Film said:

Ernie Ekberg and his son are the resident flooring experts on this site.

I messaged him. Thank you 

I am looking at changing my Rv floor from vinyl (brand new) with laminate flooring. I have a 2007 diplomat 40SKQ. I am hoping someone on here has put laminate in this exact coach or there is an expert that can tell me if there are any issues , especially with slides, if I lay thin laminate wood. Thanks in advance