djlgnd

thank you greatly appreciated

On 4/6/2024 at 10:45 AM, Donflem said:

I just had mine done they just pulled back the rubber molding and replaced all the screws and used the same molding.Don

would like full colour pic of your unit, as i have 2003 Camelot and need to do some repainting as well

19 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

The 2003 Camelot is not a DUAL IN/DUAL OUT. Odds are....it has a 15 or maybe a 20 amp pin or maybe a "switch" breaker or fuse on the inverter.

Please take a picture of the side or the panel of the inverter that has two breakers or fuses....you may have a Magnum with pin breakers. 

THEN....look at the specs on the NEW microwave.  What is the power requirement? The Microwave circuit is a dedicated on coming from the internal subpanel or "splitter" in the Inverter.

If you have ordered one that is too large or "overloaded", then odds are...it would have tripped these sensitive breakers. I would run a test. Get a dedicated #12 Gauge extension cord and run it from the house or a suitable receptacle....IF YOU NEED 15 Amps, then fine...or if you can find a 20 Amp. 

I really wonder if your "NEW" out of the box microwave has an internal issue.  Would NOT be the first time.  NOW this assumes that the new Microwave is plugged into the dedicated outlet in the cabinet above it.  If it is running off the GFCI then that 20 Amp could be slightly overloaded when you need full power.  BUT AGAIN, the breaker on the inverter should trip. You probably have a dedicated, NON INVERTER, Block Heater.  Check the location.  Check the Circuit Breaker rating or size. 

I am a bit suspicious....at first, the posts indicated a failure after use.  BUT, now, if this is an out of the box failure, you need another VOLTAGE Source to test...  The problem may be internal....so since it it new....warranty.

NEVER PIN A PROBLEM on MH wiring without testing an appliance on a KNOWN or good residential service...  THIS has happened before and the time and trouble and expense of chasing the issue or ghost....was extensive and frustrating....

 

thank you, i have 2- 20 amp breakers on the 2012 inverter and a dedicated line, . could it be a weak breaker? going to do all the above and again thank you

22 hours ago, jacwjames said:

What amperage breaker is used to feed the microwave, the wiring should be sized for that breaker.

My coach is a 20 amp breaker.  Most residential microwaves require a 20 amp breaker, I installed a GE Profile microwave convection unit in our house and I sized the wiring that was recommended, which was 20 amp. 

East test, get an extension cord rated for 20 amps, plug it into an outlet from an outside source and see if the microwave works.  If it does I start checking connections in the outlet that you plug the microwave into and any J-Boxes that the wiring may go through. 

plugged above in the cabinet have dual 20 amp breakers on converter, thinking a weak breaker. thnx for the info

It is Brand new right out of box, i am thinking not enough juice need a bigger power cable

Just now, djlgnd said:

It is Brand new right out of box, i am thinking not enough juice need a bigger power cable

i have a danby unit that has same features but is counter top and it works just fine. but it is smaller and no fan or vent

On 1/25/2024 at 3:49 PM, Dr4Film said:

Double post creates confusion!

sorry didn't know i double posted

On 3/28/2021 at 4:45 PM, laurice@email.com said:

Still have old unit. 

i swapped my old sharp out of my 2003 Camelot with a Whirlpool micro/convection/air fryer, everything works except heating , clock /TT, just not heating up. any ideas what is out of whack, here in grand forks b.c.

unit is a whirlpool micro/convection/air fryer everything works but not generating heat. What is wrong? How do I rectify?

Help with ideas and solutions

4 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Well, I can decipher P=Private bath (not “W” walk-thru or “D” double bath) and T=Triple slide. 

The “S” could be several things… “Sofa on Slide” or “Sink on Slide” were two common ones.

my 40DST has both a sofa and sink on slides…

Could be “Supreme, Super, or Splendiferous”

or maybe it’s just there to confuse everyone…🤣
 

 

got plenty of snow flakes here in the mountains of Canada. B.C.  and 20 below as well, but this Monaco goes through the winters easy peasy

1 hour ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Meaning no two are alike… not the more recent political meaning. 🤣

yup plenty of those here in the mountains of B.C. Canada been 22 below this past 2 weeks

On 1/14/2024 at 5:47 AM, Scotty Hutto said:

This article from an old Monaco Coach Corp may help. While it doesn’t contain every combination, it does come straight from a Monaco Coach Corporation Tech Support newsletter: 

PBDD = Private (single) Bath, Double (slide) Dinette

 

i HAVE 2003 CAMELOT 40 PST WHAT IS THIS CODE

Subscribed and watching, more videos please, need to learn, as not many techs here on west coast Canada and DIY is essential. those that are here are usually over priced no parts and an hour or 2 away.

On 12/29/2023 at 5:46 AM, Tom Cherry said:

I believe that on my Camelot, the Fresh Water filter is inline with the main feed. 

NOW....THE FOLLOWING ASSUME THAT ALL FAUCETS ARE IMPACTED...if only one, then remove the cartridge and rebuild that faucet or replace the aerators.

Specifically on your Camelot. Remove the Cartridge from the Fresh water filter where the Fresh tank is located.  THEN TEST

Remove the incoming bowl filter on the pump. Open the bay adjacent to the Wet Bay.  Pull the tray on that bay out on the curb side. There is an access panel that needs to be removed....two Square Head Screws. Behind is is the backside of the Wet Bay. The inlet filter is removable and you just take it off and clean it.

Cycle the City Fill valve several times.... Do this "DRY" with no city water hooked up to the hose or turn off the valve at the CG connection. Then turn on the valve or put the system under pressure.  Then cycle and let the water fill the Fresh tank for about a minute. Then switch to CITY and open a faucet inside and let it run for a minute or so.

If there is any grit in the line that gets inside the valve, it could clog it. 

This usually  corrects the problem. When you replace the cartridge in the whole house system, choose the cheapest and less restrictive. Folks make the mistake of thinking that the higher the filtration the better. Just the REVERSE. Even a NEW HIGH FILTRATION cartridge will have a severe pressure drop. Many CG are barely above 30 PSI and the hold well systems are usually 55 PSI or so. A city system will be in the same range or higher. Thus, when you put in a high filtration cartridge and you have low incoming water pressure...you do NOT get any pressure.

If you are using one of the INLINE (Monaco had one on mine) regulators....THROW IT AWAY. Purchase a REAL water regulator like a watts. I am using this one and it works great.  YOU DO NEED A WASHING MACHING FILTER SCREEN on the INLET of your Hose and also the Water Filter. You also need one on the hose for the Back Flush.  TRUST ME....bugs and such will get inside there or the CG's hose bib will have trash.

https://a.co/d/0n0KMOu  Valterra Water Regulator, Lead-Free Brass Adjustable Water Regulator with Pressure Gauge for Camper, Trailer, RV Plumbing System

The inline regulators have a tiny hole and you get restricted flow.  I switched to a better one as we were out west and the pressures were above 100 PSI. The Valterra delivered WAY MORE WATER and my wife and daughter said....WOW...We can rinse our hair in the shower.

That's IT.  Try those and report back...

thank you did know about filter on backside will get it done

Thank you now i know what it is gonna look into this and possibly pick 1 up if i don't have 1, where would 1 install this type of unit

Need both wet bay doors for 2003 Camelot. Busted them up real bad as u can see in pictures. Located in Canada and wondering if there are wreckers in Canada?

Any other help would be appreciated

THANK YOU TOM WILL TRY THIS AND LET EVERYONE KNOW HOW IT TURNS OUT

why confused? should b able to download, i can e-AIL IF NEEDED

On 12/26/2023 at 3:31 PM, Chris Leedle said:

Visiting my Daughter and Son in law for Christmas.   He set up a 50 amp circuit for us, unfortunately he only ran 3 wires and left neutral open.  This caused my Magnum inverter to quit working, along with my microwave.  I have learned a lot about how my RV uses ground amd neutral and now understand I had 240v put through these two devices.  Does anyone have Magnum ME2012 schematics?  Believe the AC board is damaged, schematics would help.

i think i can help here

BIRD intellitec.pdf Magnum Energy AGS (ME-AGS).pdf Magnum Energy purchase page 2.pdf Magnum Energy purchase page 3.pdf Magnum Energy purchase.pdf Magnum Energy YouTube repair video link.docx Magnum Inverter and Remote.pdf Magnum Inverter Compartment Cooling fan.pdf Magnum Inverter Compartment Fan.pdf magnum Inverter manual.pdf Magnum inverter pure sine wave.pdf Magnum inverter with notes.pdf Magnum ME2012 Inverter.pdf Magnum Pure Sine Wave Manual (64-0007 12-04).pdf Magnum Remote Control (ME-RC).pdf Magnum spec sheet.pdf ME RC50 Magnum Inverter Remote.pdf Tranfer Panel.pdf

Hope this helps any and everyone with a Magnum Inverter charger

On 12/27/2023 at 9:17 AM, Scotty Hutto said:

I have a used - but in perfect condition -  Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C Hardwired RV Surge & Electrical Protector and a Progressive Industries EMS-RDS Remote Digital Display (with a custom Paul Whittle @pwhittle designed flush-mount plate) for sale.  $150 for all + you pay shipping.

Here is a link to the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C description and specs:

https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw50c

Here is a link to the Progressive Industries EMS-RDS description and specs:

https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-rds

Here are current pictures of the unit I have for sale:

Neewbie here what is EMS and what does it do? could us an update on this for my 2003 Camelot

On 12/27/2023 at 4:28 AM, Dr4Film said:

Have you verified that the water pressure is low after you remove the screens in the faucets?

Sounds tome like you need to clean all of the faucets really well with vinegar. Let them soak overnight then rinse with fresh water.

i have a 2003 camelot with same issue, i do not have filtrs in wet bay all taps have been soaked in clr and screens as well, have new filter under sink and still no pressure on city water

On 11/11/2023 at 1:16 PM, Russ R said:

Wash & wax myself, unless traveling in bad weather. Then will do a commercial truck wash, like Blue Beacon. Wax twice a year with Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0

Your Windsor looks identical to my 2003 Camelot only diff. is your 1 piece windshield

thank you gonna grab me some of these

On 11/4/2023 at 10:32 AM, Steven P said:

I've had these Hella fog lights bookmarked for a while. Finally ordered and installed them.  Note, they are off road use only so I plan to use them whilst off-roading. Much brighter than the OEM fog lights.  I don't have pics from the cockpit but we saw many deer last night.  When I got back on the road, no one flashed me that they were too bright.  So far, I'm happy w the purchase.  I had to lower the original brackets and put a spacer in to make them work and they are upside down, but Hella says that makes no difference. 2nd pic has new on drivers side.  They appear brighter in the pics, but they aren't blinding.  No relays needed, just spliced into existing wires. 

i realy like these where did you get them, i am in canada and roads are not very well lit

On 2/19/2021 at 10:01 AM, Frank McElroy said:

There is a NEW updated download file on Monaco Technical Tips.

Of the nearly 290 Tech Tips issued by Monaco from 2001-2008, we originally only had just under 70 of them in our files.  Thanks to Scotty, who found over 200 additional Monaco Tech Tips, we now have nearly a complete set. 

THANK YOU SCOTTY!!!

I pulled all the nearly 290 individual PDF files into one PDF master file – put them all in the same format and made a linked Table of Contents. 

This means that you can download this new single PDF file (400+ pages) and when you see a topic of interest, just click on the title in the Table of Contents and it will bring you directly to the technical tip.  (If you have an older version of acrobat reader – just page down to the correct page number listed in the TOC.)

As with the parts list, this PDF file has a search feature also activated.  Just type in a keyword of interest and it should bring you to the technical tip.

Not all tips will apply to all coaches but, there is so much in common that I suspect all this information in one document will be about as valuable as the PARTS LIST.  I suggest it be downloaded and saved to your computer for review and future reference.  Happy bedtime reading!

 

thank you for this and all the hard work you put in to get this done

2003 Camelot Burgundy with a 2002 Jeep Liberty Burgundy and a 2000 f150 Grey. and in an answer to scepter comming out first nope Camelot came out in late 90's

thank you tom, this is extremely help full, i am a second year electrician apprentice here in Canada. Just learning about motorhome electricals as they are on a different level.

Thank you

14 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Great comments….my summary and thoughts…and also a comment or two since there have been a Whole LOT of posts and ingenious folks over the years.

First.  Original Windsors, and presumably, the Dynasty, had a Dual IN, Dual OUT setup.  That provides a Sub-panel where the GFCI(s) were..  The issue of the original Norcold or a Res Refer plagued a lot ot folks.  Many just said “OK….forget NEC….I’m removing the blankety blank GFCI “ .including one of our esteemed founders and a superb Engineer.  We Moderators will label or edit posts where that is a recommendation as it violates electrical safety and common sense.

Second ….there were probably creativity awards for “let’s see how confusing or how UNINFORMATIVE” we can make this model’s prints.  I can hang with most of them.  The Camelot, maybe because I have used them, is the simplest.  In case one has never delved into “How do I find and figure out a circuit” on a later Dynasty, it takes a mind with more “power” than mine….and we have folks here so gifted.  The lack of a line print…where you go to an index….look up the “gee what is this” item….then get a print number.  Then find, in the Harness section, the harness(s) and then look at both a male and female drawing and select the pin(s) you need…then imagine how they are connected and do a mental “picture” and then start to troubleshoot…using up to 3 prints…and NOT on a single print gives me a headache… BUT, there are many Dynasty prints that I can now locate and use….some of the earlier lower ends had a “cross” of both.  

FWIW.  There was, I was, told by “JIM” the elder tech support,  that there was a huge rivalry or perhaps “lack of communication” and each thought that their electrical group was superior.  NO “CONSOLIDATED” engineering organization….so each group had total control and the electrical…which was a big issue and fights had almost broken out at the water cooler.  Maybe a bit of embellishment, but NO CENTRAL or common format.

Third.  HOW the OP finally does it?  Ideally, the simple (to me…feel free to flame….nicely…LOL). Install a J-Box upstream of the inverter.  Split the feed there.  Use split bolt connectors properly insulated per NEC (there is a method outlined many places).  Run one 30A feed to the Inverter….so, it works as before.  Run the second or a parallel feed to either a J-Box…or if really OCD, a subpanel with a 20 A single breaker.  Then pull the Microwave or “Line 2” out of the inverter and attach there.  Same power usage.  No real change to diversity of the Inverter’s circuits..  then, YES, one has to have Genny or have AC power to the main for the microwave to work.  I would, as I did, put a 15 A cube surge suppressor on the outlet above the microwave where it is plugged in.

All here, seem to be  cognizant of the issues with GCFI and defrost coils or icemaker heaters….so, while tracing circuits, determine the best way to get a “LINE” not a “LOAD” direct feed to the Icemaker outlet and NOT through a GFCI.

i have 2003 Camelot looking for electrical diagrams as well as plumbing. would like to convert over to solar and my inverter does not allow for solar, recommendations for 3000 to 4000 watt unit. also residential fridge, update microwave and switch to induction cook top.