FunTripsUSA

Update:  I have cleaned out the burn chamber and have discovered that I have a leak of some sort.  I think its water.  I'm not sure though.  Here are some videos.

I checked the AquaHot reservoir and it is not empty.  I believe its at the level its been at since I bought the coach March 2023.

Here are some video's from my finding.  What are my next steps now that I see this leak?

3 hours ago, zmotorsports said:

WOW, that combustion chamber is nasty.  I think it looks like it is surface carbon and as long as there aren't any holes in it then it should be savable.  I have used those small brass or stainless-steel brushes to clean them before with great success.  The kind you get from a welder's supply house, then use a shop vac to suck up the debris before reassembly.  Looks like you will have a lot of fuel cleanup required as well in the bottom of the pan.  That should be easily sucked up with paper towels or shop towels though.  Should make for a nice clean pan in the enclosure after though.  😜

 

As for the melted electrical connector, that is actually for the fuel solenois and not the blower motor.  Was the connector loose?  Did it come off easily?  If so, I would either crimp the metal connector a bit so you get a tighter connection on the spade OR replace that particular connection with a new one.  I have not seen one of those wire connectors melted like that before. 

 

 

Mike, Thank you for the hope about the combustion chamber has potential to be ok.  I will get several wire brushes and a shop vac and  get to cleaning and vacuuming.  

Melted electric connector was connected very well to the pin.  It was not easy to get it off.  I had to rock it left and right and pull away from the pin it was connected to.  The fuel pump was just shy of being HOT when I took off the connector.  I'm not sure why it was hot. Maybe it was hot b/c the hot water heater element works very well.  Maybe the tank had all the components in the combustion chamber toasty? I don't know.

When it comes to the burner I'm thinking about buying all the same parts you did in your video and just replace pretty much everything since diesel fuel is all over the components in the burner.  

Warm pump motor.  AquaHot switch is off however the element switch is on in the coach.

Fuel dripping from the air intake and all over the AH tray

Melted wire on the fuel pump

Removed Burner and here is a look at it in the light.

Combustion chamber. 

I hope you guys tell me I can clean that up.  If you say my AH is shot my heart will sink into a black hole lol

Random pics I took to make sure I can put it all back together correctly.  Especially, the wiring!

On 11/15/2023 at 5:04 PM, zmotorsports said:

If your Aqua-Hot has more serious issues and needs more than just an annual maintenance routine, this video may be for you as it shows a deep teardown and replacement of components all the way to the fuel pump and blower bearings.

 

Would you be willing to speak with me on the phone? If yes, please feel free to text or call 850-879-2611

My blower intake area is wet with diesel.  

I just want to know how to diagnose my system to get the proper parts and replace those.  Unfortunately, I have no previous experience with this system.  My 1st AH.

On 1/22/2024 at 5:58 PM, Hancoman said:

I am having the exact same problem, lights when it wants to then puts on a smoke show for a time.  I have an appointment with Oregon Motor Coach Center tomorrow. I will let you know what I find out. 

Please keep us updated.  Thank you - Jan 29th response

On 1/25/2024 at 7:33 PM, radioman said:

Do what you want. We drain flush to its clear enough to drink than refill with new

I see the drain.  How do you flush it, wash it out with a cleaner and refill?

6 hours ago, vito.a said:

Usually, black smoke is too much diesel.  Are you sure you have the burner re-installed correctly?

I think you need to check the fuel pump pressure, the electrode tip alignment, and the igniter coil.  

I had John Carrillo rebuild my Aqua Hot diesel burner last year.  He rebuilt it and sent it back the same day.  And his price was less than half the other guys.  

https://www.heatmyrv.com/

You can make a pressure gauge out of an old spray nozzle.  I bought a 0-160psi pressure gauge on Amazon.  I then drilled and tapped an old Aqua Hot spray nozzle and installed the gauge.  Just a caution, there is a hardened steel insert inside the brass spray nozzle that you'll need to knock out with a hammer and punch.  

From the manual: If The Heater Smokes During The Burn Cycle.
a. Electrodes out of adjustment
b. Air in the fuel system
c. Bad nozzle
d. Fuel pressure
e. Fuel Pump
f. Intermittent Ignition Coil
- If the coil doesn’t turn on, the fuel sprays for 20 seconds, before the photo eye shuts the fuel off.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZHJYDN2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Can you mail me that pressure gauge? lol

16 minutes ago, Jdw12345 said:

Please let us all know what the issues are once it’s resolved.

 This is a good document to have with you, even if you are not comfortable working on the unit, assuming you don’t have it.

 

https://library.aquahot.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/AHE-100-02S-Service-Manual-Rev.-B-9-27-2011.pdf

 

Thank you.  I do have that document.  I'm a video and hands on kind of learner.  I've looked that document over and it leaves me scratching my head.  I'll keep everyone posted. 

Since our Florida weather is a short cycle of cold I may not get it fixed right now and wait.  Since the quote was it could cost up to $2,000 to fix.  I'm thinking for $2,000 im willing to figure out how to fix it myself. 

Thank you.  I have an appointment set up for February.  They are 3 weeks out. I couldn't believe their labor rate was $100 an hour.  WOW, Thank you for the reference.

14 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

@FunTripsUSA Ian, call up Hitching Post of Ocala FL and make an appointment with them for service/repair. They are right down the i-75 Freeway about a 3 hour drive from you. They have power to hookup overnight so they can start on your Aqua-Hot first thing in the am. The AH service tech is Butch and he is excellent.

It took me years to find a good AH service tech until I found this one. I drive 160 miles round trip to have my AH service there. I wont take it anywhere else, other than possibly a mobile tech in Melbourne FL. But with then I have to pay for a mobile service call in addition to the actual service.

352-629-0756

Thank you.  Appointment set for Feb 19.  There hourly rate is awesome, $100.  I appreciate your time to answer my post.

$250 sounds better than the $2,500 I've seen so far.  However,  I have never tested for specs before.  I'm not sure I would be able to do it correctly.  

I wouldn't mind taking it somewhere.  I am in Tallahassee, FL.  AquaHot recommends my local Camping World.  I did call them last year when I knew I was having a problem.  The tech there had 20 years experience with AquaHot.  Sounds like I should take it to Camping World.

5 minutes ago, Michael Powell said:

Look up Mike and Crystal Zuech.. He put on this group how to rebuild the fuel pump..

This is the only post from Zuech I can find on this site 

Good day,

I have replaced the fuel filter, jet nozzle and reflective thermal plate (not sure the name of that part).  Before I replaced those parts my AquaHot was not igniting or when it did ignite it would blow tons of white smoke. The white smoke would get less and less as it run.  Over the past several weeks it has been running ok to fair.  Some white smoke and sometimes lots of white smoke.  Today, Monday January 22, it was not igniting and was oozing fuel out of the tailpipe.  Need some advice. Should I just buy a new burner assembly and swap it out with the old one or should I rebuild the current burner?  I have no experience with AquaHot rebuilds. This would be my first rebuild.   

Your thoughts are much appreciated. 

Good Morning all.  Took the coach to LazyDays at The Villages in Wildwood and the slides are fixed and are working.  Bought 4 new HWH manufactured Master Cyclinders.  With shipping came out to be $2600.  It took one week for them to manufacture and get out the door after I placed my order.  I went this route because rebuilding the cylinder did not guarantee that it would not blow out again.  HWH has a 1 year manufacturers warranty and they will help cover the removal of the cylinder(s) if they fail.  I liked that.

On 8/4/2023 at 11:33 AM, cbr046 said:

Next time it quits go to the electrical bay and start with the fuse for that slide.  Push on it, wiggle, it, etc. while the wife is pressing the button.  If nothing happens follow that fuse to the it's wire.  Push on it, wiggle it, etc.  Keep doing that up the chain until something changes.  It could as simple as the crimp on the fuse blade to a pc board solder joint to a broken wire inside a crimp connector of one of the cables (those are real tough to find).

- bob

 

Hi Bob,

Thank you for your response.  I have the diagram for my electrical/fuse bay.  I've attached it below.  I am trying to learn as I am not accustomed to reading these diagrams.  I can only see one fuse/harness that relates to slide or hydraulic. I don't see a spot for just my hydraulic slides. 

Can you help point me in the right direction?

Thank you

We went to slide out our HWH Hydraulic slide for the front of the coach.  Worked for a split second then would no longer respond when pressing the button.  We checked all the bay doors to make sure they where closed.  Pressed the button again and it didn't work. This has happened to us before.  In the past we disconnected from shore power. Disconnected the batteries.  Waited and tried again and it worked.  However, this time we tried something different.  While Laura just pressed the button to extend the space saver slide I went in the fuse panel box in the bay outside under the driver area.  I wiggled the wires and fuses on the middle circuit board.  Schazam it started sliding out.

Here is what I need help with.  I have attached a picture of both the fuse panel bay and the electrical diagram for the circuit boards.  I am hoping that someone can help point me in the right direction as to what section I need to focus on to discover what wiring area is not getting a good connection.

Thank you

Ian

Extraded Fuese Diagram Pages from 2003 Monaco Dynasty Wiring Diagram w TOC.pdf

Great news. Slide is out and no linger racked. Thank you Chuck and Dave for the phone calls. 

To get the slide out evenly here are the steps we took

1. Release the solenoid hex nuts on all the solenoids related to the slides. We did this since we were not exactly sure which belonged to which. 

2. Gather wood and bottle jack. 

3. Use wood as spacer and a way to protect the coach from cosmetic damage. 

See pics..

When we go to push the slide back in we will update this thread on how we accomplished this. 

4 hours ago, Duffer51 said:

Had this happen to my 04 Dynasty. Had to drill out rivets that hold the small rectangular plate on the side of the coach that "trips" the slide out latching system on each end of the slide out. Once that was done all the hydraulic pressure was released it took 6 of us to push it back in.  It took some pushing it out on the end that wasn't fully extended then pushing it back in on the end that was fully extended. Pushing back and forth finally out it square enough to get back in. Once back in I blocked the slide on the inside to prevent it going back out while driving to repair shop. 

Thank you. This is the plate we will drill the rivets out from. Is that correct?

26 minutes ago, Craggar said:

Did you look in the bay opposite to the slide for the winch? That's where mine is. Hope someone can chime that can help you out. 

Is it attached to the frame or loose?

Tomorrow I am going through all the bays and hunting down the winches. 

The other issue is the slide is crooked and racked at an angel. The Hydraulic will work vit it is jimmied in such a way we can get it ti budge. Not sure what to do. Thought about hooking up a tow strap to the slide square tube and gently pull it. (Put the strap on the slide tube that is least extended. The other part of the slide is completely extended. 

We have no clue what to do. Makes for FTT interesting. 

Unfortunately we have taken on damage to the slide. 

We are out in the middle of no where. I pray we get it closed so we can get her somewhere to fix it. 

We have 2003 Monaco Dynasty Baroness 3 slides.  Our driver side & passenger are hydraulic.  I think the driver side blew a seal in either the Hydraulic Cylinder or the Manifold Check Valve.  Our leak is coming from the square (silver colored) hollow bar that goes into the black guide bar.  
2003 Monaco Dynasty Baroness

OUR BIG PROBLEM is the slide is now racked so bad that we cannot not manually close.  We opened both Extend and Retract Solenoid (valve release nut. I think 1/4" in size.) I heard the pressure on both solenoids release.  But because of the angle of the slide it will not allow us to manually push the slide back in. Its bound bad.

I'm don't know what to do to correct this issues.  If you feel generous enough please post your reply.  Much appreciation Ian.  

I am also watching this thread.  

The manual says there is supposed to be a manual winch.  I cannot find it.  Our system is an HWH Auto Air Leveling system.  We do not have jacks.  Our coach uses air bags.

HWH Hydraulic Spacemaker Room Extension System.  Two - Dual Cylinder Room Extensions (with synchronizing cylinders)

Here are some pics

7 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

there is a common ground to the instrument cluster.  you will find, most likely a green wire....if not, you are going to have find the ground. some folks have run a new ground as the stud that has the ground (or terminal strip) is not getting a good ground.  BUT...you MUST find and trouble shoot the ground....otherwise splicing or hooking up blind will cost you a fortune and your parts ain't available...

 

Thank you. 

I've never been taught how to chase down wires. Do you have a suggestion on a video or a online course?

I was told I can run new ground wire(s) from the cluster to the chasis. To give the cluster a secure ground. 

7 hours ago, Ivan K said:

When your Jake stops working in that situation, is the cruise and possibly dash fan also out? I had an intermittent solenoid in FRB do that. Your gauges might be wired to it as well but of course, checking the daisychained ground is a good advice. 

I'm not sure. I'll have to try those things. I was told that my solenoids could be my problem for the instrument panel issue. When it's really cold the instrument panel won't work then when it's been running and warms up it starts working. 

This is beyond all my current knowledge.  I'm on a bug learning curve. This is 3 weeks in. Lol

Still trying to figure this out. I have no clue what I am doing. 

However. I did find out that the purple wire is connected to the black box. The other side of that wire runs up to another 15amp fuse. Not sure what the other 4 post fuse box is for. Maybe that is where they bypassed. The section of the circuit board that fried. 

My Instrument cluster will sporadically stop working. What could be the issue? 

I had one person tell me that I need a new cluster. 

With my coach being a 2003 it's hard to find parts for certain systems. 

This morning the batteries where completely dead (my fault. Newbie here. Must turn off all abrtery switches). Got the batteries going and she started. However the instrument panel was not working. Got down the road about 20 mins and now the instrument panel is working. Other times I've started the coach and the panel would not work and after driving for a little bit the instrument panel would start working again. 

When the panel stops working here are the following gauges that don't work. MPH, RPM, Volts, Oil Pressure,  Water Temp. (Some of my gauges don't work at all fuel, Trans temp) also get a constant alarm sound and an ABS TAG warning (ABS only comes on momentarily when I first depress the brake pedal).  When the cluster stops working also my JAKE BREAK stops working. 

Fun times. 

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated 

My Instrument cluster will sporadically stop working. What could be the issue? 

I had one person tell me that I need a new cluster. 

With my coach being a 2003 it's hard to find parts for certain systems. 

This morning the batteries where completely dead (my fault. Newbie here. Must turn off all abrtery switches). Got the batteries going and she started. However the instrument panel was not working. Got down the road about 20 mins and now the instrument panel is working. Other times I've started the coach and the panel would not work and after driving for a little bit the instrument panel would start working again. 

When the panel stops working here are the following gauges that don't work. MPH, RPM, Volts, Oil Pressure,  Water Temp. (Some of my gauges don't work at all fuel, Trans temp) also get a constant alarm sound and an ABS TAG warning (ABS only comes on momentarily when I first depress the brake pedal).  When the cluster stops working also my JAKE BREAK stops working. 

Fun times. 

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated 

19 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

FWIW.  One of the best Chassis shops in the US with very specific and great experience in the Monaco air leveling systems, regardless of brands is In Orlando.. Josams.  Google them.  Barry is shop manager and has specific techs for Monaco.  If the controller was not at fault, rhen they would be the best to go from there.  Folks drive in from many states out for their service.

Thank you.  I am saving their number to my phone. Have a great weekend!

UPDATE:  Found out the Jake Brake does work.  There is a lever on the floor you press with your foot to engage the brake.  It WORKS GREAT!!

I have another question.... I will post it under the picture that I have a question for. 

I appreciate all your help!

 

On 3/11/2023 at 9:58 AM, DavidL said:

 

I believe the difference in part numbers is if there is a heavy duty power feed to the board or not.

I assume this is the board in question with the burnt connector.

Engine Brake / Bag dump / Gauge Power / Backup (VIM)

 

Those are the wires to track down to find out how this was "fixed" with a workaround so that the fuse block didn't have to be replaced.

What is the black box at the bottom?  Looks like it might be a relay.  Might also be a fuse holder.  Can't tell from the picture.

Are your wires printed for function?  Look back in the harness to find out what those wires are labeled that are solderless connected to the black "relay".

Note that there was a short or loose connection or some other high amperage load for that connector to burn to begin with.  Once the wires are found, the real root problem needs to be diagnosed.

 

 

On the circuit board under ENGINE BRAKE is BAG DUMP. Several questions to come:

1. Is the Bag Dump to empty all the air in the air bags?

2. How is the Bag Dump controlled?

3. Across from Bag Dump (on the circuit board) is HWH AIR LEVEL. My air level system is not working. Would it be related to Air Dump?

Side Note: I trouble shot my HWH system with HWY on the line. The system gets power however the control board in the coach is not activating the system to auto level. HWH requested me to send it to them for troubleshooting.  Did so today. The TRAVEL light is lighting up green.